I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic Coated MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to clean and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this? If so, did you glue the panels together? If so, what type of glue works for hardboard and MDF?

On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 4:08:14 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

*I like that "click for larger view".... like it would really make a difference!

I would think typical drawer bottoms (interiors) are adequate, just spray inside, when spraying the rest of the unit.

Sonny

On 1/11/2015 4:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic Coated MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to clean and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this? If so, did you glue the panels together? If so, what type of glue works for hardboard and MDF?



If you glued the panels together they would be stronger. Past that if
the white panel scratches it might look worse after a few years.

Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice with
an enamel paint.

On 1/11/15 5:07 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/11/2015 4:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193



The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this? If so, did you glue the panels together? If
so, what type of glue works for hardboard and MDF?



If you glued the panels together they would be stronger. Past that
if the white panel scratches it might look worse after a few years.

Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice
with an enamel paint.


That's what I prefer. 1/8", even 3/16" feels cheap and sounds cheap.
1/4" ply feels strong, doesn't deflect, and makes much less noise when
things are places on it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Leon wrote:

Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice
with an enamel paint.
-----------------------------------------------------------
"-MIKE-" wrote:

That's what I prefer. 1/8", even 3/16" feels cheap and sounds
cheap.
1/4" ply feels strong, doesn't deflect, and makes much less noise
when
things are places on it.
-----------------------------------------------------------
I'm with you.

1/4", 5 ply Birch die board and 2-3 coats of shellac works for me for
drawer bottoms.

Lew

Leon wrote:

Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice
with an enamel paint.
-----------------------------------------------------------
"-MIKE-" wrote:

That's what I prefer. 1/8", even 3/16" feels cheap and sounds
cheap.
1/4" ply feels strong, doesn't deflect, and makes much less noise
when
things are places on it.
-----------------------------------------------------------
I'm with you.

1/4", 5 ply Birch die board and 2-3 coats of shellac works for me for
drawer bottoms.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Forgot to include that the shellac is a 1 lb cut applied with a 2"
chip brush.

Lew

On 1/11/2015 10:08 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Leon wrote:

Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice
with an enamel paint.
-----------------------------------------------------------
"-MIKE-" wrote:

That's what I prefer. 1/8", even 3/16" feels cheap and sounds
cheap.
1/4" ply feels strong, doesn't deflect, and makes much less noise
when
things are places on it.
-----------------------------------------------------------
I'm with you.

1/4", 5 ply Birch die board and 2-3 coats of shellac works for me for
drawer bottoms.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Forgot to include that the shellac is a 1 lb cut applied with a 2"
chip brush.

Lew



Damn Lew enjoy your chip brushes.
Certainly useable for epoxy glue ups.. not finishing.

--
Jeff

Lew Hodgett wrote:

I'm with you.

1/4", 5 ply Birch die board and 2-3 coats of shellac works for me
for
drawer bottoms.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Forgot to include that the shellac is a 1 lb cut applied with a 2"
chip brush.

Lew
--------------------------------------------------------------

"woodchucker" wrote:

Damn Lew enjoy your chip brushes.
Certainly useable for epoxy glue ups.. not finishing.
-------------------------------------------------------
After the first 500 or so, you develop a fondness as well as a user's
technique for them.

Lew

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated
MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to clean
and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this?

Yes. I have used it here and there in my shop, also in the house as tray
bottoms (trays IN drawers).

If so, did you glue the panels together?

No, I just used the 1/8" tileboard. Why do you want a lamination of it
and hardboard?

If so, what type of glue works for hardboard and MDF?

Yellow glue. White glue. Plastic resin glue. Epoxy. IOW, any.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/11/15 5:07 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/11/2015 4:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193



The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this? If so, did you glue the panels together? If
so, what type of glue works for hardboard and MDF?



If you glued the panels together they would be stronger. Past that
if the white panel scratches it might look worse after a few years.

Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice
with an enamel paint.


That's what I prefer. 1/8", even 3/16" feels cheap and sounds cheap.
1/4" ply feels strong, doesn't deflect, and makes much less noise when
things are places on it.


--

-MIKE-


Just FYI...there was never a plan to use just 1/8". I was asking about a lamination of 1/8" hardboard and 1/8" Acrylic Coated MDF, totaling 1/4".

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 5:51:03 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated
MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to clean
and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this?

Yes. I have used it here and there in my shop, also in the house as tray
bottoms (trays IN drawers).

If so, did you glue the panels together?

No, I just used the 1/8" tileboard. Why do you want a lamination of it
and hardboard?


The lamination would be to achieve a 1/4" thickness for the actual drawer bottom, not for a drawer tray.


If so, what type of glue works for hardboard and MDF?

Yellow glue. White glue. Plastic resin glue. Epoxy. IOW, any.

Thanks.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 6:08:34 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/11/2015 4:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic Coated MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to clean and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this? If so, did you glue the panels together? If so, what type of glue works for hardboard and MDF?



If you glued the panels together they would be stronger. Past that if
the white panel scratches it might look worse after a few years.

That's a good point. I may just go with the 1/4" ply and replaceable shelf liners/contact paper.


Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice with
an enamel paint.

On 1/12/15 8:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/11/15 5:07 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/11/2015 4:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8"
Acrylic Coated MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193






The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper,
etc.

Has anyone done this? If so, did you glue the panels together?
If so, what type of glue works for hardboard and MDF?



If you glued the panels together they would be stronger. Past
that if the white panel scratches it might look worse after a
few years.

Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of
choice with an enamel paint.


That's what I prefer. 1/8", even 3/16" feels cheap and sounds
cheap. 1/4" ply feels strong, doesn't deflect, and makes much less
noise when things are places on it.


--

-MIKE-


Just FYI...there was never a plan to use just 1/8". I was asking
about a lamination of 1/8" hardboard and 1/8" Acrylic Coated MDF,
totaling 1/4".


Ok, gotcha. Still seems like more work.
It's pretty easy to apply a finish to 1/4 plywood or better yet, use the
pre-finished stuff. The finish they apply in the factory is very durable.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/12/2015 8:35 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 8:06:16 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/11/15 5:07 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/11/2015 4:08 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193



The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this? If so, did you glue the panels together? If
so, what type of glue works for hardboard and MDF?



If you glued the panels together they would be stronger. Past that
if the white panel scratches it might look worse after a few years.

Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice
with an enamel paint.


That's what I prefer. 1/8", even 3/16" feels cheap and sounds cheap.
1/4" ply feels strong, doesn't deflect, and makes much less noise when
things are places on it.


--

-MIKE-


Just FYI...there was never a plan to use just 1/8". I was asking about a lamination of 1/8" hardboard and 1/8" Acrylic Coated MDF, totaling 1/4".

Understood but 1/4" of hardboard and mdf are still inferior to. about
the same thickness, plywood.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 5:51:03 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated
MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean
and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this?

Yes. I have used it here and there in my shop, also in the house as
tray bottoms (trays IN drawers).

If so, did you glue the panels together?

No, I just used the 1/8" tileboard. Why do you want a lamination of
it
and hardboard?


The lamination would be to achieve a 1/4" thickness for the actual
drawer
bottom, not for a drawer tray.

Yeah, I understood that. The thing is, why? Although 1/4 is a pretty
standard drawer bottom thickness, there is no rule requiring it. Some
drawers need a bottom that thick, some need thicker but for most normally
sized drawers 1/8 would be sufficient. (Unless you are going to store
wrenches on them .

Easy to cut the grooves for it too if your table saw blade is 1/8 or 1/8 +
a RCH.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 1/12/2015 8:59 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 5:51:03 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated
MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193


The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean
and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this?

Yes. I have used it here and there in my shop, also in the house as
tray bottoms (trays IN drawers).

If so, did you glue the panels together?

No, I just used the 1/8" tileboard. Why do you want a lamination of
it
and hardboard?


The lamination would be to achieve a 1/4" thickness for the actual drawer
bottom, not for a drawer tray.

Yeah, I understood that. The thing is, why? Although 1/4 is a pretty
standard drawer bottom thickness, there is no rule requiring it. Some
drawers need a bottom that thick, some need thicker but for most
normally sized drawers 1/8 would be sufficient. (Unless you are going to
store wrenches on them .

Easy to cut the grooves for it too if your table saw blade is 1/8 or 1/8
+ a RCH.


Food for thought here, these will be kitchen drawers, kitchen utensils
tend to be much like wrenches. ;~) I live in a relatively new
neighborhood, newest homes are 3 years old. One of the builders used
1/8" thick drawer bottoms and I have rebuild several of those drawers,
for neighbors, not mine, already. By comparison our builder used 1/4"
bottoms and we have had no issues yet. 1/4" plywood is much less
expensive than the time to rebuild a kitchen drawer bottom that may fail.

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 9:59:22 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 5:51:03 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated
MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean
and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this?

Yes. I have used it here and there in my shop, also in the house as
tray bottoms (trays IN drawers).

If so, did you glue the panels together?

No, I just used the 1/8" tileboard. Why do you want a lamination of
it
and hardboard?


The lamination would be to achieve a 1/4" thickness for the actual
drawer
bottom, not for a drawer tray.

Yeah, I understood that. The thing is, why? Although 1/4 is a pretty
standard drawer bottom thickness, there is no rule requiring it. Some
drawers need a bottom that thick, some need thicker but for most normally
sized drawers 1/8 would be sufficient. (Unless you are going to store
wrenches on them .

I'll be making 5 kitchen drawers. At this time, some could probably get by with 1/8" (plastic wrap/bags in one, a knife holder tray in another, etc.) However, at least one needs 1/4". Picture 2 trays full of utensils, one on top of the other (don't ask!).

Who knows...they are kitchen drawers today, maybe they'll be workshop drawers (read: wrenches) in the future. For consistency and longevity, I'll be using 1/4" bottoms.


Easy to cut the grooves for it too if your table saw blade is 1/8

My dado blade will get lonely.

or 1/8 + a RCH.

A term I haven't heard since my Coast Guard days! Picture it said with a heavy German accent by a German national EE. Very funny, probably had to be there/know him. Sylt, Germany, circa 1974-75.


--

dadiOH

On 1/12/2015 9:20 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 9:59:22 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 5:51:03 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated
MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean
and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this?

Yes. I have used it here and there in my shop, also in the house as
tray bottoms (trays IN drawers).

If so, did you glue the panels together?

No, I just used the 1/8" tileboard. Why do you want a lamination of
it
and hardboard?


The lamination would be to achieve a 1/4" thickness for the actual
drawer
bottom, not for a drawer tray.

Yeah, I understood that. The thing is, why? Although 1/4 is a pretty
standard drawer bottom thickness, there is no rule requiring it. Some
drawers need a bottom that thick, some need thicker but for most normally
sized drawers 1/8 would be sufficient. (Unless you are going to store
wrenches on them .

I'll be making 5 kitchen drawers. At this time, some could probably get by with 1/8" (plastic wrap/bags in one, a knife holder tray in another, etc.) However, at least one needs 1/4". Picture 2 trays full of utensils, one on top of the other (don't ask!).

Who knows...they are kitchen drawers today, maybe they'll be workshop drawers (read: wrenches) in the future. For consistency and longevity, I'll be using 1/4" bottoms.


Easy to cut the grooves for it too if your table saw blade is 1/8

My dado blade will get lonely.

It should stay lonely if you use ply. I always use a standard 1/8" kerf
blade, I use a flat cut blade for flat bottoms but not necessary. Get
your bottom material first and make two passes on the TS to perfectly
cut/fit your drawer bottom groove to the material you are going to use
for the bottoms. If you use a dado it is very likely that it will cut
too wide for 1/4" ply.

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 1:11:51 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 1/12/2015 9:20 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 9:59:22 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 5:51:03 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic
Coated
MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193

The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean
and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper, etc.

Has anyone done this?

Yes. I have used it here and there in my shop, also in the house as
tray bottoms (trays IN drawers).

If so, did you glue the panels together?

No, I just used the 1/8" tileboard. Why do you want a lamination of
it
and hardboard?


The lamination would be to achieve a 1/4" thickness for the actual
drawer
bottom, not for a drawer tray.

Yeah, I understood that. The thing is, why? Although 1/4 is a pretty
standard drawer bottom thickness, there is no rule requiring it. Some
drawers need a bottom that thick, some need thicker but for most normally
sized drawers 1/8 would be sufficient. (Unless you are going to store
wrenches on them .

I'll be making 5 kitchen drawers. At this time, some could probably get by with 1/8" (plastic wrap/bags in one, a knife holder tray in another, etc.) However, at least one needs 1/4". Picture 2 trays full of utensils, one on top of the other (don't ask!).

Who knows...they are kitchen drawers today, maybe they'll be workshop drawers (read: wrenches) in the future. For consistency and longevity, I'll be using 1/4" bottoms.


Easy to cut the grooves for it too if your table saw blade is 1/8

My dado blade will get lonely.

It should stay lonely if you use ply. I always use a standard 1/8" kerf
blade, I use a flat cut blade for flat bottoms but not necessary. Get
your bottom material first and make two passes on the TS to perfectly
cut/fit your drawer bottom groove to the material you are going to use
for the bottoms. If you use a dado it is very likely that it will cut
too wide for 1/4" ply.

I'll keep that in mind. Certainly worth some testing. Thanks!

On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 2:08:14 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8" Acrylic Coated MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...rd-Panel-Board

Drawer bottoms (in my silverware drawer, for instance) take a lot of steady load.
I've seen a lot of MDF/hardboard/termitebarf movement in moisture/load situations,
and would be happier with 3/8" plywood, rabbeted at the edges
to fit a 1/4" groove.

For small drawers in dry locations, though, you could do well with melamine-surfaced
hardboard (like for shower stalls).

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message

On 1/12/2015 8:59 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 5:51:03 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I read a suggestion to use 1/8" Hardboard topped with 1/8"
Acrylic
Coated
MDF for kitchen drawer bottoms.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...9106/202090193


The theory is that the Acrylic Coated MDF looks good, is easy to
clean and wouldn't need to be covered with shelving paper,
etc.

Has anyone done this?

Yes. I have used it here and there in my shop, also in the house
as
tray bottoms (trays IN drawers).

If so, did you glue the panels together?

No, I just used the 1/8" tileboard. Why do you want a lamination
of
it
and hardboard?


The lamination would be to achieve a 1/4" thickness for the actual
drawer bottom, not for a drawer tray.

Yeah, I understood that. The thing is, why? Although 1/4 is a pretty
standard drawer bottom thickness, there is no rule requiring it. Some
drawers need a bottom that thick, some need thicker but for most
normally sized drawers 1/8 would be sufficient. (Unless you are going
to
store wrenches on them .

Easy to cut the grooves for it too if your table saw blade is 1/8 or
1/8
+ a RCH.


Food for thought here, these will be kitchen drawers, kitchen utensils
tend to be much like wrenches. ;~) I live in a relatively new
neighborhood, newest homes are 3 years old. One of the builders used
1/8" thick drawer bottoms and I have rebuild several of those drawers,
for neighbors, not mine, already. By comparison our builder used 1/4"
bottoms and we have had no issues yet. 1/4" plywood is much less
expensive than the time to rebuild a kitchen drawer bottom that may
fail.

You speak the truth. It really depends upon what is going in
them...sharp, pointy stuff could screw up the surface, towels and pot
holders should be safe.

Regardless of what was going in them I wouldn't glue up two sheets of
anything, too much work for me I might - possibly - consider using
1/4" mel board if I needed that sort of hardness.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net