I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4 walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

On 11/1/2013 5:35 PM, wrote:
I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4 walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

A general rule I have been told and do is dado 1/3 the thickness of the
piece of wood you're dadoing.

On Friday, November 1, 2013 4:35:34 PM UTC-5, justin devico wrote:
I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4 walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

For side and back panels? Are space balls being used?

Sonny

wrote:

I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4
walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

It all depends on the walnut and its use. If you are using 1/4" walnut to
divide pigeon holes, a quarter inch is plenty. If its structural, you will
need 3/8", assuming your cutting them in 3/4" inch stock.

On 11/1/2013 4:35 PM, wrote:
I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4 walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?



1/2" deep is a good safe depth.

On 11/1/2013 5:35 PM, wrote:
I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4 walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?


That depends. Generally 1/2 the thickness is acceptable. but in
situations like dividers for drawers 1/3 of the thickness is preferable.

--
Jeff

On Fri, 1 Nov 2013 14:35:34 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4 walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

Let's see now...

One said: 1/3 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/4" or 1/2 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/2".
One asked something personal about your balls.

For me, I'd go with the 1/4" depth unless the dado is going in 1/4"
material. If so, 1/8" is adequate.

I wonder what the next four or five answers will bring.

In article , Gordon Shumway
wrote:

On Fri, 1 Nov 2013 14:35:34 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4
walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

Let's see now...

One said: 1/3 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/4" or 1/2 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/2".
One asked something personal about your balls.

For me, I'd go with the 1/4" depth unless the dado is going in 1/4"
material. If so, 1/8" is adequate.

I wonder what the next four or five answers will bring.

Use brad nails, then paint the walnut so the paint drips into the dado
and holds it firmly in place.

--
Life. Nature's way of keeping meat fresh. -- Dr. Who

On 11/1/2013 8:25 PM, Dave Balderstone wrote:
In article , Gordon Shumway
wrote:

On Fri, 1 Nov 2013 14:35:34 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4
walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

Let's see now...

One said: 1/3 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/4" or 1/2 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/2".
One asked something personal about your balls.

For me, I'd go with the 1/4" depth unless the dado is going in 1/4"
material. If so, 1/8" is adequate.

I wonder what the next four or five answers will bring.

Use brad nails, then paint the walnut so the paint drips into the dado
and holds it firmly in place.

Toe-nailed, of course, but if it will be load bearing then use screws toog

On Fri, 01 Nov 2013 19:25:36 -0600, Dave Balderstone
wrote:

In article , Gordon Shumway
wrote:

On Fri, 1 Nov 2013 14:35:34 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4
walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

Let's see now...

One said: 1/3 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/4" or 1/2 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/2".
One asked something personal about your balls.

For me, I'd go with the 1/4" depth unless the dado is going in 1/4"
material. If so, 1/8" is adequate.

I wonder what the next four or five answers will bring.

Use brad nails, then paint the walnut so the paint drips into the dado
and holds it firmly in place.

Sound advice. Just a couple other points. For proper adhesion, the paint must
be bright yellow in color. Use some 80 grit sandpaper and sand while the paint
is still wet to fill the brad nail holes. Any leftover paint can be used as a
fine finish on your rifle or shotgun stocks.

Roy wrote:


Sound advice. Just a couple other points. For proper adhesion, the
paint must be bright yellow in color. Use some 80 grit sandpaper and
sand while the paint is still wet to fill the brad nail holes.

Yes, but only lightly scuffing. I'm sure you meant to say that...


--

-Mike-

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 11/1/2013 4:35 PM, wrote:
I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for
1/4 walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes
be?



1/2" deep is a good safe depth.

I'd probably go with about 1/2" myself. You'll get plenty of support, but
not be so deep you compromise the piece you're dadoing.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

In article , Roy
wrote:

On Fri, 01 Nov 2013 19:25:36 -0600, Dave Balderstone
wrote:

In article , Gordon Shumway
wrote:

On Fri, 1 Nov 2013 14:35:34 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4
walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

Let's see now...

One said: 1/3 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/4" or 1/2 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/2".
One asked something personal about your balls.

For me, I'd go with the 1/4" depth unless the dado is going in 1/4"
material. If so, 1/8" is adequate.

I wonder what the next four or five answers will bring.

Use brad nails, then paint the walnut so the paint drips into the dado
and holds it firmly in place.

Sound advice. Just a couple other points. For proper adhesion, the paint
must
be bright yellow in color. Use some 80 grit sandpaper and sand while the paint
is still wet to fill the brad nail holes. Any leftover paint can be used as a
fine finish on your rifle or shotgun stocks.

I've used magenta and SBB (what we used to call **** Brindle Brown)
successfully as well.

--
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to
read. - Groucho Marx

These will be semi structural, like ply into sides of a desk(which is essentially what this project is).

I'm not sure the thickeness of the rails but the legs are like 1 5/8 thick . The rails are bigger than 3/4 for sure though. I'm afraid of cutting into my tenon on my rails.

On 11/2/2013 7:37 AM, justin devico wrote:
These will be semi structural, like ply into sides of a desk(which is essentially what this project is).

I'm not sure the thickeness of the rails but the legs are like 1 5/8 thick . The rails are bigger than 3/4 for sure though. I'm afraid of cutting into my tenon on my rails.



Seems then that the solution would be to go with 3/8" dadoes and just
make sure that you're not compromising the tenons. If you can't go 3/8"
without hitting the tenon, move the tenon.

On 11/2/2013 7:37 AM, justin devico wrote:
These will be semi structural, like ply into sides of a desk(which is essentially what this project is).

I'm not sure the thickeness of the rails but the legs are like 1 5/8 thick . The rails are bigger than 3/4 for sure though. I'm afraid of cutting into my tenon on my rails.

From your descriptions thus far:

A 1/4" dadoe is quite sufficient for a plywood panel that is framed by
rails and stiles/legs.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Fri, 01 Nov 2013 20:08:25 -0500, Gordon Shumway
wrote:

On Fri, 1 Nov 2013 14:35:34 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I'm building a jewelers bench for my wife. And I'm cutting dadoes for 1/4 walnut ply panels. And was wondering how deep should the dadoes be?

Let's see now...

One said: 1/3 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/4" or 1/2 of the thickness the dado is in.
One said: 1/2".
One asked something personal about your balls.

For me, I'd go with the 1/4" depth unless the dado is going in 1/4"
material. If so, 1/8" is adequate.

I wonder what the next four or five answers will bring.

I'm with you.

In article , Swingman
wrote:

On 11/2/2013 7:37 AM, justin devico wrote:
These will be semi structural, like ply into sides of a desk(which is
essentially what this project is).

I'm not sure the thickeness of the rails but the legs are like 1 5/8 thick
. The rails are bigger than 3/4 for sure though. I'm afraid of cutting into
my tenon on my rails.

From your descriptions thus far:

A 1/4" dadoe is quite sufficient for a plywood panel that is framed by
rails and stiles/legs.

I concur, FWIW.

--
Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog, it's too dark to
read. - Groucho Marx