For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry

On Fri, 20 Sep 2013 18:18:22 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry

Where'd you get them?

On 9/20/2013 9:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry

your sure they are not adjustable. The shaft that holds them should be
concentric so that you can move them in or out. Is there a set screw
holding the shaft?

--
Jeff

Thanks, Jeff. There is a set screw at the end of the shaft. I will play with it tomorrow.

On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not
adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad
more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid
construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the Carters.
Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry


Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay seller.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about which
adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which aren't when I was
needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood. Proper blade tension is so
much more important than the guides.

This is the original post I made on the topic...
http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 9:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry

your sure they are not adjustable. The shaft that holds them should be
concentric so that you can move them in or out. Is there a set screw
holding the shaft?

I think the word is eccentric. Anyway, I had a similar set and I
believe you loosen the clamp screw and rotate the center screw to
adjust the roller in or out. I turn a lot of green wood and it builds
up on the blade and those would just pack it down and get tighter and
tighter. Had to go back to the steel guides which will scrape down
the buildup.

For ordinary use the roller guides are great.

--
 GW Ross 

 Blessed are the censors; they shall 
 inhibit the earth. 

"G. Ross" wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 9:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW nicely.
It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not adjustable,
so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad more than I've
been led to believe is appropriate. Solid construction and at $55 is
about one-fourth the cost of the Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts
and am quite satisfied.

Larry

your sure they are not adjustable. The shaft that holds them should be
concentric so that you can move them in or out. Is there a set screw
holding the shaft?

I think the word is eccentric. Anyway, I had a similar set and I believe
you loosen the clamp screw and rotate the center screw to adjust the
roller in or out. I turn a lot of green wood and it builds up on the
blade and those would just pack it down and get tighter and tighter. Had
to go back to the steel guides which will scrape down the buildup.

For ordinary use the roller guides are great.


I experienced the same problem with roller guides, on paper they sound
great but wet or oily wood introduces another set of problems. I have had
no issues after switching to ceramic guides.

On 9/21/2013 8:39 AM, G. Ross wrote:
woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 9:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not
adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad
more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid
construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the Carters.
Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry

your sure they are not adjustable. The shaft that holds them should be
concentric so that you can move them in or out. Is there a set screw
holding the shaft?

I think the word is eccentric. Anyway, I had a similar set and I
believe you loosen the clamp screw and rotate the center screw to adjust
the roller in or out. I turn a lot of green wood and it builds up on
the blade and those would just pack it down and get tighter and
tighter. Had to go back to the steel guides which will scrape down the
buildup.

For ordinary use the roller guides are great.

Yep, eccentric..

--
Jeff

On 9/20/2013 10:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not
adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad
more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid
construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the Carters.
Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry


Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay seller.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about which
adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which aren't when I was
needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood. Proper blade tension is so
much more important than the guides.

This is the original post I made on the topic...
http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ



I disagree with that. I have my band saw set up very nicely now and it
all matters. I can resaw without variation (minimal). Those guides
prevent it from twisting to some degree. Twist at the top and you will
not track. I use cool blocks just slightly touching so that they don't
pinch the blade.

Of course my fence is set accurately too.


--
Jeff

On 9/21/2013 8:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 10:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not
adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad
more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid
construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the Carters.
Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry


Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay seller.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about which
adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which aren't when I was
needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood. Proper blade tension is so
much more important than the guides.

This is the original post I made on the topic...
http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ



I disagree with that. I have my band saw set up very nicely now and it
all matters. I can resaw without variation (minimal). Those guides
prevent it from twisting to some degree. Twist at the top and you will
not track. I use cool blocks just slightly touching so that they don't
pinch the blade.

Of course my fence is set accurately too.


It all depends on the particular BS and blade. My old Craftsman had to
have everything just perfect and the blade had to be retentioned often
during an operation.

Enter my Laguna LT16HD. Guides are handy on tight radius cuts but
totally unnecessary for moderate cutting.

If the back bone of the saw flexes when under tension the blade will
loose tension and the blade will not track properly. How ridged a saw
is built is directly related with how critical or not critical it is to
set up. The more the saw flexes the more the blade will rub the guides
and the more heat generated.

On 9/21/13 8:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 10:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is
not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a
tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid
construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the
Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry


Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay
seller.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about
which adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which aren't
when I was needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood. Proper blade
tension is so much more important than the guides.

This is the original post I made on the topic...
http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ




I disagree with that. I have my band saw set up very nicely now and
it all matters. I can resaw without variation (minimal). Those guides
prevent it from twisting to some degree. Twist at the top and you
will not track. I use cool blocks just slightly touching so that they
don't pinch the blade.

Of course my fence is set accurately too.


We can all disagree, that's what keeps this place a goin'. :-)

After learning the importance of proper tension, in concert with
perfectly coplaner wheels, good tires, and good blades, and finding the
leading angle for your blade.

After learning this putting it all into practice, I'm convinced blade
guide were invented for poor saws, dull blades, and poor technique. :-)

Half joking, there, but blade guides are last on my list of priorities
when using my bandsaw. Most of the time, I don't even drop them down
into place, they stay up as far as they go.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/21/13 10:35 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/21/2013 8:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 10:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is
not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is
a tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate.
Solid construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of
the Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry


Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay
seller.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about
which adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which
aren't when I was needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood.
Proper blade tension is so much more important than the guides.

This is the original post I made on the topic...
http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ





I disagree with that. I have my band saw set up very nicely now and it
all matters. I can resaw without variation (minimal). Those guides
prevent it from twisting to some degree. Twist at the top and you
will not track. I use cool blocks just slightly touching so that
they don't pinch the blade.

Of course my fence is set accurately too.


It all depends on the particular BS and blade. My old Craftsman had
to have everything just perfect and the blade had to be retentioned
often during an operation.

Enter my Laguna LT16HD. Guides are handy on tight radius cuts but
totally unnecessary for moderate cutting.


Exactly. I jokingly wrote in my other post that I'm convinced blade
guide were invented for poor saws, dull blades, and poor technique.
Unless I'm turning tight corners, like you, I keep them up at the wheel
all the time.


If the back bone of the saw flexes when under tension the blade will
loose tension and the blade will not track properly. How ridged a
saw is built is directly related with how critical or not critical it
is to set up. The more the saw flexes the more the blade will rub
the guides and the more heat generated.


You bring up another great point. What I also learned in all that
research I did and the subsequent practice is that most people put *too
much* tension on their blades. I think the default practice for many
users when a saw that isn't tracking well is to tighten the blade. An
overtightened blade causes its own set of problems.

After installing new tires and shimming the wheels so they were
perfectly *coplaner, and marking the lead angle for each blade, I was
amazed at how little tension was needed to get the saw cutting
perfectly. This is when I also became aware of the problems with too
much tension on the blade, some of which you mentioned.


(*Coplaner means on the same plane. The top bandsaw wheel can be
adjusted easily so it is parallel to the bottom wheel, but that doesn't
mean it's on the same plane, just a parallel one. The two wheels must
be truly *coplaner* in order to cut perfectly.)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 21 Sep 2013 08:39:59 -0400, G. Ross wrote:

I turn a lot of green wood and it builds up on the blade and those would
just pack it down and get tighter and tighter. Had to go back to the
steel guides which will scrape down the buildup.

For ordinary use the roller guides are great.

My Rikon bandsaw came with roller guides and I had the same problem with
wet wood. After I cleaned the blade, I sprayed it with one of the
products sold to spray cast iron tables - don't remember which one.

That almost completely eliminated the buildup. I worried that the
sprayed blade might slip on the wheels but that didn't happen.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

Hey, Mike ... the next time you're in my neighborhood come by my shop and help me get my BS humming. Cold ones are always in the fridge!

Larry


On Saturday, September 21, 2013 11:00:18 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/21/13 10:35 AM, Leon wrote:

On 9/21/2013 8:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:

On 9/20/2013 10:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:

For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:



Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW

nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is

not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is

a tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate.

Solid construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of

the Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.



Larry





Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay

seller.



I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about

which adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which

aren't when I was needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood.

Proper blade tension is so much more important than the guides.



This is the original post I made on the topic...

http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs

https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ











I disagree with that. I have my band saw set up very nicely now and it

all matters. I can resaw without variation (minimal). Those guides

prevent it from twisting to some degree. Twist at the top and you

will not track. I use cool blocks just slightly touching so that

they don't pinch the blade.



Of course my fence is set accurately too.





It all depends on the particular BS and blade. My old Craftsman had

to have everything just perfect and the blade had to be retentioned

often during an operation.



Enter my Laguna LT16HD. Guides are handy on tight radius cuts but

totally unnecessary for moderate cutting.





Exactly. I jokingly wrote in my other post that I'm convinced blade

guide were invented for poor saws, dull blades, and poor technique.

Unless I'm turning tight corners, like you, I keep them up at the wheel

all the time.





If the back bone of the saw flexes when under tension the blade will

loose tension and the blade will not track properly. How ridged a

saw is built is directly related with how critical or not critical it

is to set up. The more the saw flexes the more the blade will rub

the guides and the more heat generated.





You bring up another great point. What I also learned in all that

research I did and the subsequent practice is that most people put *too

much* tension on their blades. I think the default practice for many

users when a saw that isn't tracking well is to tighten the blade. An

overtightened blade causes its own set of problems.



After installing new tires and shimming the wheels so they were

perfectly *coplaner, and marking the lead angle for each blade, I was

amazed at how little tension was needed to get the saw cutting

perfectly. This is when I also became aware of the problems with too

much tension on the blade, some of which you mentioned.





(*Coplaner means on the same plane. The top bandsaw wheel can be

adjusted easily so it is parallel to the bottom wheel, but that doesn't

mean it's on the same plane, just a parallel one. The two wheels must

be truly *coplaner* in order to cut perfectly.)





--



-MIKE-



"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)

--

http://mikedrums.com



---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 9/21/13 12:02 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
Hey, Mike ... the next time you're in my neighborhood come by my shop
and help me get my BS humming. Cold ones are always in the fridge!

Larry


You had me at "cold ones." :-D
What part of the country do you live?
There are a lot of tutorials out there on the interwebs for truing
everything up.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Southeast Wisconsin. Former home of Schlitz, Blatz and Pabst (RIP).


On Saturday, September 21, 2013 12:54:22 PM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/21/13 12:02 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:

Hey, Mike ... the next time you're in my neighborhood come by my shop

and help me get my BS humming. Cold ones are always in the fridge!



Larry





You had me at "cold ones." :-D

What part of the country do you live?

There are a lot of tutorials out there on the interwebs for truing

everything up.





--



-MIKE-



"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)

--

http://mikedrums.com



---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 9/21/13 8:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 10:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is
not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a
tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid
construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the
Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry


Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay
seller.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about
which adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which aren't
when I was needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood. Proper blade
tension is so much more important than the guides.

This is the original post I made on the topic...
http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ




I disagree with that. I have my band saw set up very nicely now and
it all matters. I can resaw without variation (minimal). Those guides
prevent it from twisting to some degree. Twist at the top and you
will not track. I use cool blocks just slightly touching so that they
don't pinch the blade.

Of course my fence is set accurately too.


We can all disagree, that's what keeps this place a goin'. :-)

After learning the importance of proper tension, in concert with
perfectly coplaner wheels, good tires, and good blades, and finding the
leading angle for your blade.

After learning this putting it all into practice, I'm convinced blade
guide were invented for poor saws, dull blades, and poor technique. :-)

Half joking, there, but blade guides are last on my list of priorities
when using my bandsaw. Most of the time, I don't even drop them down
into place, they stay up as far as they go.



FWIW. several years ago when I was shopping to replace the new Ricon BS
that I has just returned I visited MiniMax in Austin TX. They demoed the
MM16 IIRC with no guides at all. I generally keep the guides on my Laguna
about 6" from the table and keeping upper guides that low helps to act as a
guard.

On 9/21/13 5:44 PM, Leon wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 9/21/13 8:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 10:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is
not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a
tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid
construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the
Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry


Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay
seller.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about
which adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which aren't
when I was needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood. Proper blade
tension is so much more important than the guides.

This is the original post I made on the topic...
http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ




I disagree with that. I have my band saw set up very nicely now and
it all matters. I can resaw without variation (minimal). Those guides
prevent it from twisting to some degree. Twist at the top and you
will not track. I use cool blocks just slightly touching so that they
don't pinch the blade.

Of course my fence is set accurately too.


We can all disagree, that's what keeps this place a goin'. :-)

After learning the importance of proper tension, in concert with
perfectly coplaner wheels, good tires, and good blades, and finding the
leading angle for your blade.

After learning this putting it all into practice, I'm convinced blade
guide were invented for poor saws, dull blades, and poor technique. :-)

Half joking, there, but blade guides are last on my list of priorities
when using my bandsaw. Most of the time, I don't even drop them down
into place, they stay up as far as they go.



FWIW. several years ago when I was shopping to replace the new Ricon BS
that I has just returned I visited MiniMax in Austin TX. They demoed the
MM16 IIRC with no guides at all. I generally keep the guides on my Laguna
about 6" from the table and keeping upper guides that low helps to act as a
guard.


Yes it does... that's sort of off topic, but a much better reason to
employ the rollers IMO. :-)
My guard, all the way up, is only 6".


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
On 9/21/13 5:44 PM, Leon wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
On 9/21/13 8:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 10:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is
not adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a
tad more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid
construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the
Carters. Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry


Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay
seller.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about
which adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which aren't
when I was needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood. Proper blade
tension is so much more important than the guides.

This is the original post I made on the topic...
http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ




I disagree with that. I have my band saw set up very nicely now and
it all matters. I can resaw without variation (minimal). Those guides
prevent it from twisting to some degree. Twist at the top and you
will not track. I use cool blocks just slightly touching so that they
don't pinch the blade.

Of course my fence is set accurately too.


We can all disagree, that's what keeps this place a goin'. :-)

After learning the importance of proper tension, in concert with
perfectly coplaner wheels, good tires, and good blades, and finding the
leading angle for your blade.

After learning this putting it all into practice, I'm convinced blade
guide were invented for poor saws, dull blades, and poor technique. :-)

Half joking, there, but blade guides are last on my list of priorities
when using my bandsaw. Most of the time, I don't even drop them down
into place, they stay up as far as they go.



FWIW. several years ago when I was shopping to replace the new Ricon BS
that I has just returned I visited MiniMax in Austin TX. They demoed the
MM16 IIRC with no guides at all. I generally keep the guides on my Laguna
about 6" from the table and keeping upper guides that low helps to act as a
guard.


Yes it does... that's sort of off topic, but a much better reason to
employ the rollers IMO. :-)
My guard, all the way up, is only 6".



My guard all the way up is yours plus 10". :-)

On Sun, 22 Sep 2013 00:52:09 -0500, Leon wrote:
My guard, all the way up, is only 6".
My guard all the way up is yours plus 10". :-)

Yeah, yeah. When Canada invades Texas, your workshop is the first one
I'll be looking to loot.

We don't have as many guns as you do, but we have a bumper crop of UFC
fighters that we can send your way.

wrote:
On Sun, 22 Sep 2013 00:52:09 -0500, Leon wrote:
My guard, all the way up, is only 6".
My guard all the way up is yours plus 10". :-)

Yeah, yeah. When Canada invades Texas, your workshop is the first one
I'll be looking to loot.


That's funny! When Canada invades, all the invaders won't make it past the
first shopping mall.




--

-Mike-

"Mike Marlow" wrote:
wrote:
On Sun, 22 Sep 2013 00:52:09 -0500, Leon wrote:
My guard, all the way up, is only 6".
My guard all the way up is yours plus 10". :-)

Yeah, yeah. When Canada invades Texas, your workshop is the first one
I'll be looking to loot.


That's funny! When Canada invades, all the invaders won't make it past the
first shopping mall.

Now, that there is funny ... don't care who you are.


--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

On Sun, 22 Sep 2013 07:18:11 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
Yeah, yeah. When Canada invades Texas, your workshop is the first one
I'll be looking to loot.

That's funny! When Canada invades, all the invaders won't make it past the
first shopping mall.

Guess we should load up on Alka Seltzer, Eno and Gaviscon then. Need
some way to handle all that spicy Texican food.

wrote:
On Sun, 22 Sep 2013 00:52:09 -0500, Leon wrote:
My guard, all the way up, is only 6".
My guard all the way up is yours plus 10". :-)

Yeah, yeah. When Canada invades Texas, your workshop is the first one
I'll be looking to loot.

We don't have as many guns as you do, but we have a bumper crop of UFC
fighters that we can send your way.

LOL

wrote:
On Sun, 22 Sep 2013 07:18:11 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
Yeah, yeah. When Canada invades Texas, your workshop is the first one
I'll be looking to loot.

That's funny! When Canada invades, all the invaders won't make it past the
first shopping mall.

Guess we should load up on Alka Seltzer, Eno and Gaviscon then. Need
some way to handle all that spicy Texican food.

Spicy Texican? LOL. Try come Cajun cooking.

On Sun, 22 Sep 2013 09:02:52 -0500, Leon wrote:

Guess we should load up on Alka Seltzer, Eno and Gaviscon then. Need
some way to handle all that spicy Texican food.

Spicy Texican? LOL. Try come Cajun cooking.

I used to go to a computer conference in Florida in the winter
(naturally). One of the attendees was from Canada and always wanted to
go out for Mexican food. Said he couldn't get good Mexican food in
Canada. Being from California at the time, I pointed out he couldn't get
it in Florida either. Cuban yes, Mexican no :-).

Come to think of it, the best Mexican food I ever had was in Phoenix AZ.

--
This message was for rec.woodworking - if it appears in homeownershub
they ripped it off.

On 9/22/2013 11:34 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 22 Sep 2013 09:02:52 -0500, Leon wrote:

Guess we should load up on Alka Seltzer, Eno and Gaviscon then. Need
some way to handle all that spicy Texican food.

Spicy Texican? LOL. Try come Cajun cooking.

I used to go to a computer conference in Florida in the winter
(naturally). One of the attendees was from Canada and always wanted to
go out for Mexican food. Said he couldn't get good Mexican food in
Canada. Being from California at the time, I pointed out he couldn't get
it in Florida either. Cuban yes, Mexican no :-).

Exactly and Cuban is significantly different than Mexican.




Come to think of it, the best Mexican food I ever had was in Phoenix AZ.



I would imagine most any state that borders Mexico would be a better bet.


That said, most people think of Mexican food as the stuff that looks
like what Taco Bell serves. That is TexMex.

Authentic Mexican food is much more American in appearance, it is not
just tacos and enchiladas with the American ingredient. Many years ago
I learned the traditional Mexican enchilada is more likely to be stuffed
with vegetables, potatoes, etc, not necessarily ground beef and cheese.

And as Swingman and I can attest the Mexican food that you don't picture
in your mind is the stuff worth going after time and again.

Time for more El Panchito!

On 9/22/2013 11:45 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/22/2013 11:34 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:


I used to go to a computer conference in Florida in the winter
(naturally). One of the attendees was from Canada and always wanted to
go out for Mexican food. Said he couldn't get good Mexican food in
Canada. Being from California at the time, I pointed out he couldn't get
it in Florida either. Cuban yes, Mexican no :-).

Exactly and Cuban is significantly different than Mexican.




Come to think of it, the best Mexican food I ever had was in Phoenix AZ.



I would imagine most any state that borders Mexico would be a better bet.


That said, most people think of Mexican food as the stuff that looks
like what Taco Bell serves. That is TexMex.

Authentic Mexican food is much more American in appearance, it is not
just tacos and enchiladas with the American ingredient. Many years ago
I learned the traditional Mexican enchilada is more likely to be stuffed
with vegetables, potatoes, etc, not necessarily ground beef and cheese.

And as Swingman and I can attest the Mexican food that you don't picture
in your mind is the stuff worth going after time and again.

Time for more El Panchito!

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...85450154360146


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eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...85450154360146

Got carried away looking at all the pictures on this site Karl. In this
one, what is the device in the mitre slot to the left of your fence? (from
the perspective of the viewer of the picture - right from the operator
perspective).

--

-Mike-

Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...85450154360146

Got carried away looking at all the pictures on this site Karl. In
this one, what is the device in the mitre slot to the left of your
fence? (from the perspective of the viewer of the picture - right
from the operator perspective).

Damn... this one...

https://plus.google.com/photos/11135...67778981859077

--

-Mike-

On 9/22/13 6:28 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...85450154360146



Got carried away looking at all the pictures on this site Karl. In
this one, what is the device in the mitre slot to the left of your
fence? (from the perspective of the viewer of the picture - right
from the operator perspective).

Damn... this one...

https://plus.google.com/photos/11135...4211471597314?
banner=pwa&pid=5903904211471597314&oid=1113554677 78981859077



I think that just the clamping mechanism for that fence system.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:


I think that just the clamping mechanism for that fence system.

Must be then, that it only looks like it sits in the mitre slot.

--

-Mike-

On 9/22/13 7:04 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:


I think that just the clamping mechanism for that fence system.

Must be then, that it only looks like it sits in the mitre slot.


It's the older Unisaw version, like here...
http://www.provenwoodworking.com/table-saw-tips.html


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Mike Marlow"
wrote in message Swingman wrote:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...85450154360146

Got carried away looking at all the pictures on
this site Karl. In this one, what is the device
in the mitre slot to the left of your fence?
(from the perspective of the viewer of the
picture - right from the operator perspective).

--

-Mike-

I like that cordless drill auger at the end of the
list... ;)}

"Mike Marlow" wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Swingman wrote:



https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...85450154360146

Got carried away looking at all the pictures on this site Karl. In
this one, what is the device in the mitre slot to the left of your
fence? (from the perspective of the viewer of the picture - right
from the operator perspective).

Damn... this one...

https://plus.google.com/photos/11135...67778981859077


That Mike Is a Delta Unifence!

Google unifence table saw fence