Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Help! Bandsaw blade guides

I recently purchased a DoALL bandsaw that had been converted long ago
from a band filer. When the new guides were fitted the upper guides
were mounted upside down. These are the typical guides that are angled
at the ends and when installed make a VEE shaped assembly. The point
of the VEE should be pointing up but these guides instead have the VEE
pointing down. Because of this chips get caught in the valley of the
VEE and are dragged by the saw blade into the tiny gap between the
blade and the guide. The blade is galled because of this. Furthermore,
the guides are only 3/8" thick and the saw takes 3/4" blades. So I am
going to change guides and I don't know which guides would be the
best. I will not be using roller guides. But there are new blade
guides made from different materials available now and I would
appreciate advice on which would be best.
Thanks,
Eric
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Default Help! Bandsaw blade guides


wrote in message
...
I recently purchased a DoALL bandsaw that had been converted long ago
from a band filer. When the new guides were fitted the upper guides
were mounted upside down. These are the typical guides that are angled
at the ends and when installed make a VEE shaped assembly. The point
of the VEE should be pointing up but these guides instead have the VEE
pointing down. Because of this chips get caught in the valley of the
VEE and are dragged by the saw blade into the tiny gap between the
blade and the guide. The blade is galled because of this. Furthermore,
the guides are only 3/8" thick and the saw takes 3/4" blades. So I am
going to change guides and I don't know which guides would be the
best. I will not be using roller guides. But there are new blade
guides made from different materials available now and I would
appreciate advice on which would be best.
Thanks,


DoAll can most likely help, strongly suggest give them a call.

If it's a horizontal, then likely it is supposed to have carbide-lined
guides--any reputable tool grind shop should be able to braze new carbide
onto a mild steel guide blanks that you've fabricated in-house.

It's very important to keep carbide guides well lubricated--wear occurs much
faster with water soluble coolant than it does with straight cutting oil.



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Default Help! Bandsaw blade guides

On Sat, 16 Mar 2013 11:27:20 -0700, wrote:

I recently purchased a DoALL bandsaw that had been converted long ago
from a band filer. When the new guides were fitted the upper guides
were mounted upside down. These are the typical guides that are angled
at the ends and when installed make a VEE shaped assembly. The point
of the VEE should be pointing up but these guides instead have the VEE
pointing down. Because of this chips get caught in the valley of the
VEE and are dragged by the saw blade into the tiny gap between the
blade and the guide. The blade is galled because of this. Furthermore,
the guides are only 3/8" thick and the saw takes 3/4" blades. So I am
going to change guides and I don't know which guides would be the
best. I will not be using roller guides. But there are new blade
guides made from different materials available now and I would
appreciate advice on which would be best.
Thanks,
Eric


The upper DoAll guides point down, the guides under the table point
up. I've never had the problem you describe with my 16" ML. Chips will
occasionally get jammed between the guide blocks and the backup
bearing cap, but only on the lower guide that lives in a shower of
chips

As far as material for the blocks goes, the DoAll steel blocks are
very hard and wear resistant, and stay true for a long time. I have
reground them, but don't recall offhand what the sparks looked like. I
don't believe they're HSS. D2 would probably be my choice if I were
making them myself. My recollection is a set of 4 was $40-50 from
DoAll, though that was some time ago.

--
Ned Simmons
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Default Help! Bandsaw blade guides

On Mar 16, 2:27*pm, wrote:
I recently purchased a DoALL bandsaw that had been converted long ago
from a band filer. When the new guides were fitted the upper guides
were mounted upside down. These are the typical guides that are angled
at the ends and when installed make a VEE shaped assembly. The point
of the VEE should be pointing up but these guides instead have the VEE
pointing down. Because of this chips get caught in the valley of the
VEE and are dragged by the saw blade into the tiny gap between the
blade and the guide. The blade is galled because of this. Furthermore,
the guides are only 3/8" thick and the saw takes 3/4" blades. So I am
going to change guides and I don't know which guides would be the
best. I will not be using roller guides. But there are new blade
guides made from different materials available now and I would
appreciate advice on which would be best.
Thanks,
Eric


My comments are free and maybe only worth what you pay. They are not
based on experience.

I would think the guides are oriented correctly , but maybe not big
enough.

I would try using UHMW poly for the guides. It is cheap. Grainger
and MSC both carry it. It is very abrasive resistant and very slick
too. i would expect any chips would embed in the plastic and not gall
the blade. Do not know if guides made of UHMW poly are available, but
should be easy to make guides from raw stock.

Dan
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Default Help! Bandsaw blade guides


wrote in message
...
I recently purchased a DoALL bandsaw that had been converted long ago
from a band filer. When the new guides were fitted the upper guides
were mounted upside down. These are the typical guides that are angled
at the ends and when installed make a VEE shaped assembly. The point
of the VEE should be pointing up but these guides instead have the VEE
pointing down. Because of this chips get caught in the valley of the
VEE and are dragged by the saw blade into the tiny gap between the
blade and the guide. The blade is galled because of this. Furthermore,
the guides are only 3/8" thick and the saw takes 3/4" blades. So I am
going to change guides and I don't know which guides would be the
best. I will not be using roller guides. But there are new blade
guides made from different materials available now and I would
appreciate advice on which would be best.
Thanks,
Eric


The guides in use are incorrect for the blade size. They should support
the blade back, nearly to the teeth, so profile sawing is possible.

In regards to the direction they point, that is correct. If they pointed
up, the blade would lack the required support for profile sawing, which is
DoAll's claim to fame. The solid jaws are superior to bearings, because
they lend support closer to the needed area.

If you are plagued with chip problems, the gap is not correct. Set the
clearance according to factory specs and you'll find the guides work very
well.

Harold



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Default Help! Bandsaw blade guides

On Sun, 17 Mar 2013 12:35:22 -0700, wrote:

On Sun, 17 Mar 2013 06:28:52 GMT, "Harold & Susan Vordos"
wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
I recently purchased a DoALL bandsaw that had been converted long ago
from a band filer. When the new guides were fitted the upper guides
were mounted upside down. These are the typical guides that are angled
at the ends and when installed make a VEE shaped assembly. The point
of the VEE should be pointing up but these guides instead have the VEE
pointing down. Because of this chips get caught in the valley of the
VEE and are dragged by the saw blade into the tiny gap between the
blade and the guide. The blade is galled because of this. Furthermore,
the guides are only 3/8" thick and the saw takes 3/4" blades. So I am
going to change guides and I don't know which guides would be the
best. I will not be using roller guides. But there are new blade
guides made from different materials available now and I would
appreciate advice on which would be best.
Thanks,
Eric


The guides in use are incorrect for the blade size. They should support
the blade back, nearly to the teeth, so profile sawing is possible.

In regards to the direction they point, that is correct. If they pointed
up, the blade would lack the required support for profile sawing, which is
DoAll's claim to fame. The solid jaws are superior to bearings, because
they lend support closer to the needed area.

If you are plagued with chip problems, the gap is not correct. Set the
clearance according to factory specs and you'll find the guides work very
well.

Harold

Thanks Harold and everyone else who replied to my request for help. I
guess that the real problem is guides that are too narrow. I knew they
were but the problem with galling must be from too large a gap and too
little surface area. I wonder if I should get new guides that are made
from ceramic?
Eric


You could do that, or simply machine a set out of O1etc and harden
them properly when you are done.

How many hours a day for how many years do you think they will last?

A bunch! And if you are using it far more than the average serious
hobbiest..you probably have the wrong saw in the first place.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie
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