On 9/21/2013 8:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 9/20/2013 10:26 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
On 9/20/13 8:18 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
For -MIKE- and anyone else interested:

Received the Carter look-alike guides and they fit my JBS 14MW
nicely. It appears that the spacing between the two rollers is not
adjustable, so the gap between the rollers and the blade is a tad
more than I've been led to believe is appropriate. Solid
construction and at $55 is about one-fourth the cost of the Carters.
Ran a couple of test cuts and am quite satisfied.

Larry


Thanks for the update, Larry. I'm going to bookmark that ebay seller.

I wouldn't worry too much about the gap. I learned a lot about which
adjustments on a bandsaw are truly important and which aren't when I was
needing to re-saw some 8" bamboo plywood. Proper blade tension is so
much more important than the guides.

This is the original post I made on the topic...
http://goo.gl/J7Z3vs
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rec....I/OM85a1vy8HIJ



I disagree with that. I have my band saw set up very nicely now and it
all matters. I can resaw without variation (minimal). Those guides
prevent it from twisting to some degree. Twist at the top and you will
not track. I use cool blocks just slightly touching so that they don't
pinch the blade.

Of course my fence is set accurately too.


It all depends on the particular BS and blade. My old Craftsman had to
have everything just perfect and the blade had to be retentioned often
during an operation.

Enter my Laguna LT16HD. Guides are handy on tight radius cuts but
totally unnecessary for moderate cutting.

If the back bone of the saw flexes when under tension the blade will
loose tension and the blade will not track properly. How ridged a saw
is built is directly related with how critical or not critical it is to
set up. The more the saw flexes the more the blade will rub the guides
and the more heat generated.