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#41
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
Lew Hodgett wrote:
Subject If you want to show your woodworking skills, that's one thing. If you want to shill for Disney as the price of admission to view your work, I went to take a peek and his site tried to get me to join the Navy. : ) then perform aerial intercourse on a rotating annular spheroid. Lew |
#42
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
If you want to shill for Disney as the price of admission to view your
work, then perform aerial intercourse on a rotating annular spheroid. Lew ...."perform aerial intercourse on a rotating annular spheroid" ?? Not enough coffee yet today to visually wrap my head around this one, but then I have a very imaginative mind so that may be a good thing. |
#43
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
Yeah, asking for criticism (quote: Criticism ok) then throwing a temper tantrum when criticism is received (albeit snarky and uncalled-for criticism) doesn't leave an observer with a good impression of Brian. Well, I was actually the first one who jumped in with a "Flame" for Tommy boy, who had actually encouraged me to do so with his comment about expecting flames for his post. Maybe I encouraged Garage boy by coming down on his side, which isn't always the case, I have trashed his stuff before as well. Tommy has the right to his opinion, and criticism was requested but I felt it was over the top in terms of harshness (is that a word?)and more denigrating than necessary so I jumped in to provide some defense, assuming Garage boy would likely not. I never did see Tommy's work (can't see fricking ABPW via my Google reader) and I loved Sam Maloof, he was a sweet and talented man and I learned a few things from him over the years but I have no love for that swoopy design type stuff so likely would be unimpressed. |
#44
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/3/2013 12:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
Yeah, asking for criticism (quote: Criticism ok) then throwing a temper tantrum when criticism is received (albeit snarky and uncalled-for criticism) doesn't leave an observer with a good impression of Brian. Well, I was actually the first one who jumped in with a "Flame" for Tommy boy, who had actually encouraged me to do so with his comment about expecting flames for his post. Maybe I encouraged Garage boy by coming down on his side, which isn't always the case, I have trashed his stuff before as well. Tommy has the right to his opinion, and criticism was requested but I felt it was over the top in terms of harshness (is that a word?)and more denigrating than necessary so I jumped in to provide some defense, assuming Garage boy would likely not. I never did see Tommy's work (can't see fricking ABPW via my Google reader) and I loved Sam Maloof, he was a sweet and talented man and I learned a few things from him over the years but I have no love for that swoopy design type stuff so likely would be unimpressed. I don't look at workmanship based on my taste, I look at it purely as what went into it. Tommy Boy produced some nice work. I was not impressed by Brian's work, there were a few things that I found out of place, the lacewood was beautiful, but not well done, since the glue up put a piece that distracted.. If I had no more lacewood, I would have move that to the outside where it would be less noticable instead of breaking up the pattern. I am troubled by some of Brian's machine work, especially tablesaw work. I keep seeing the leading edge lifting, and in my opinion, his blade is too low, leading to some of the burning we see, and a huge potential for kick back. I keep the blade high, except with ply to avoid the potential, and the wood near the blade never lifts.. As far as Brian's design, I had no problem with it, only the execution. -- Jeff |
#45
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/3/2013 11:18 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
Yeah, asking for criticism (quote: Criticism ok) then throwing a temper tantrum when criticism is received (albeit snarky and uncalled-for criticism) doesn't leave an observer with a good impression of Brian. Snip I felt it was over the top in terms of harshness (is that a word?) As much and as valid of a word as functionality and or utilization. All can be used in their more simple form with the same meaning. |
#46
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/3/2013 11:59 AM, woodchucker wrote:
I am troubled by some of Brian's machine work, especially tablesaw work. I keep seeing the leading edge lifting, and in my opinion, his blade is too low, leading to some of the burning we see, and a huge potential for kick back. I keep the blade high, except with ply to avoid the potential, and the wood near the blade never lifts.. As far as Brian's design, I had no problem with it, only the execution. I think I would have cut the beveled edge on the TS instead of using the tilted router table fence. |
#47
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 12:59:16 PM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote:
On 7/3/2013 12:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: Yeah, asking for criticism (quote: Criticism ok) then throwing a temper tantrum when criticism is received (albeit snarky and uncalled-for criticism) doesn't leave an observer with a good impression of Brian. Well, I was actually the first one who jumped in with a "Flame" for Tommy boy, who had actually encouraged me to do so with his comment about expecting flames for his post. Maybe I encouraged Garage boy by coming down on his side, which isn't always the case, I have trashed his stuff before as well. Tommy has the right to his opinion, and criticism was requested but I felt it was over the top in terms of harshness (is that a word?)and more denigrating than necessary so I jumped in to provide some defense, assuming Garage boy would likely not. I never did see Tommy's work (can't see fricking ABPW via my Google reader) and I loved Sam Maloof, he was a sweet and talented man and I learned a few things from him over the years but I have no love for that swoopy design type stuff so likely would be unimpressed. I don't look at workmanship based on my taste, I look at it purely as what went into it. Donkey sh*t. You judge "what went into it" based on your taste. Tommy Boy produced some nice work. I am confident that he presented what was his hand picked favorites. I found them to be weak and uninspiring. His best of the bunch was the Maloof knock-off chair but this didn't demonstrate the very trait that he crapped on me for. Being "unimaginative". I was not impressed by Brian's work, there were a few things that I found out of place, the lacewood was beautiful, but not well done, since the glue up put a piece that distracted.. Now were getting somewhere. Actual useful criticism. Could you point out the board you find distracting? Below is a picture of the top: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictu..._table/002.jpg If I had no more lacewood, I would have move that to the outside where it would be less noticable instead of breaking up the pattern. What pattern? I am troubled by some of Brian's machine work, especially tablesaw work. I keep seeing the leading edge lifting, Again, useful criticism. Could you point out the videos and time frame where a board "lifted"? I remember a piece of ply lifting a little but nothing dramatic. and in my opinion, his blade is too low, leading to some of the burning we see, and a huge potential for kick back. A blade too low leads to kickback? That's news to me. I keep the blade high, except with ply to avoid the potential, and the wood near the blade never lifts.. A blade that is excessively high is more dangerous than one that is too low (but still cuts all the way through). Could you elaborate here? As far as Brian's design, I had no problem with it, only the execution. Finally a complement (I think). Thank you -- Jeff |
#48
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 1:25:37 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/3/2013 11:59 AM, woodchucker wrote: I am troubled by some of Brian's machine work, especially tablesaw work. I keep seeing the leading edge lifting, and in my opinion, his blade is too low, leading to some of the burning we see, and a huge potential for kick back. I keep the blade high, except with ply to avoid the potential, and the wood near the blade never lifts.. As far as Brian's design, I had no problem with it, only the execution. I think I would have cut the beveled edge on the TS instead of using the tilted router table fence. Why? It may be a faster maneuver but you need to swing your blade over and re-align to 90 degrees. (Here is where you tell me you trust your positive stop and we have a lengthy discussion about sawdust gumming up the works. ) Most woodworkers despise tilting their blade. |
#51
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:17:39 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/3/2013 12:36 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 12:59:16 PM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote: On 7/3/2013 12:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: Yeah, asking for criticism (quote: Criticism ok) then throwing a temper tantrum when criticism is received (albeit snarky and uncalled-for criticism) doesn't leave an observer with a good impression of Brian. Well, I was actually the first one who jumped in with a "Flame" for Tommy boy, who had actually encouraged me to do so with his comment about expecting flames for his post. Maybe I encouraged Garage boy by coming down on his side, which isn't always the case, I have trashed his stuff before as well. Tommy has the right to his opinion, and criticism was requested but I felt it was over the top in terms of harshness (is that a word?)and more denigrating than necessary so I jumped in to provide some defense, assuming Garage boy would likely not. I never did see Tommy's work (can't see fricking ABPW via my Google reader) and I loved Sam Maloof, he was a sweet and talented man and I learned a few things from him over the years but I have no love for that swoopy design type stuff so likely would be unimpressed. I don't look at workmanship based on my taste, I look at it purely as what went into it. Donkey sh*t. You judge "what went into it" based on your taste. Tommy Boy produced some nice work. I am confident that he presented what was his hand picked favorites. I found them to be weak and uninspiring. His best of the bunch was the Maloof knock-off chair but this didn't demonstrate the very trait that he crapped on me for. Being "unimaginative". I was not impressed by Brian's work, there were a few things that I found out of place, the lacewood was beautiful, but not well done, since the glue up put a piece that distracted.. Now were getting somewhere. Actual useful criticism. Could you point out the board you find distracting? Below is a picture of the top: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictu..._table/002.jpg To easily understand, you would need to repost the original picture, the one that this link has replaced. Like I told you when you originally asked - it was an artifact of the photography. Nothing wrong with the top. It is very pleasing to look at. But it shows up better in the first video opening shot below. The right middle top board here. It's all in how the light hits the wood. It is a very pleasing top to look at. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=v91 |
#52
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:17:50 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
On 7/3/2013 1:01 PM, wrote: ... Most woodworkers despise tilting their blade. From what data did you create that "statistic/fact"???? It is admittedly a based on limited data from reading forums and commentary. Take it for what it is but it shouldn't come as a shock. I, for one, do it quite frequently and like Leon trust the stops (and have never found reason not to). Good on you. -- |
#53
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
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#54
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/3/2013 1:22 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:17:39 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote: On 7/3/2013 12:36 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 12:59:16 PM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote: On 7/3/2013 12:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: Yeah, asking for criticism (quote: Criticism ok) then throwing a temper tantrum when criticism is received (albeit snarky and uncalled-for criticism) doesn't leave an observer with a good impression of Brian. Well, I was actually the first one who jumped in with a "Flame" for Tommy boy, who had actually encouraged me to do so with his comment about expecting flames for his post. Maybe I encouraged Garage boy by coming down on his side, which isn't always the case, I have trashed his stuff before as well. Tommy has the right to his opinion, and criticism was requested but I felt it was over the top in terms of harshness (is that a word?)and more denigrating than necessary so I jumped in to provide some defense, assuming Garage boy would likely not. I never did see Tommy's work (can't see fricking ABPW via my Google reader) and I loved Sam Maloof, he was a sweet and talented man and I learned a few things from him over the years but I have no love for that swoopy design type stuff so likely would be unimpressed. I don't look at workmanship based on my taste, I look at it purely as what went into it. Donkey sh*t. You judge "what went into it" based on your taste. Tommy Boy produced some nice work. I am confident that he presented what was his hand picked favorites. I found them to be weak and uninspiring. His best of the bunch was the Maloof knock-off chair but this didn't demonstrate the very trait that he crapped on me for. Being "unimaginative". I was not impressed by Brian's work, there were a few things that I found out of place, the lacewood was beautiful, but not well done, since the glue up put a piece that distracted.. Now were getting somewhere. Actual useful criticism. Could you point out the board you find distracting? Below is a picture of the top: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictu..._table/002.jpg To easily understand, you would need to repost the original picture, the one that this link has replaced. Like I told you when you originally asked - it was an artifact of the photography. Nothing wrong with the top. It is very pleasing to look at. But it shows up better in the first video opening shot below. The right middle top board here. It's all in how the light hits the wood. It is a very pleasing top to look at. I am sure it looks great but that first picture was not as flattering as the current. |
#55
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/3/2013 12:36 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 12:59:16 PM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote: .... ... the lacewood was beautiful, ... the glue up put a piece that distracted.. Now were getting somewhere. Actual useful criticism. Could you point out the board you find distracting? Below is a picture of the top: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictu..._table/002.jpg It's not an individual board, it's that the four don't go together well--there's too much difference in color and grain pattern between each such that the juxtaposition is distracting. It looks as though it were two boards and that you put one on the to edges and the other in the middle two. W/o more material from either of the two selections to try to match, I'd have probably veneered the top from the board that is the two outers and, perhaps, laid it as an inset panel framed by the cherry or some other way to even out the disparity that shows up as is... If I had no more lacewood, I would have move that to the outside where it would be less noticable instead of breaking up the pattern. What pattern? The continuity of similar grain/color from one piece to the next as discussed above... .... As far as Brian's design, I had no problem with it, only the execution. Finally a complement (I think). Thank you .... I think other than the above on better grain-matching it would have been improved if it were made to look a little "lighter" on its feet--it seems a little heavy to me. I'd have tapered the legs a little more and certainly have lightened-up the edges of the top by at least a chamfer if not actually thinning the edge by a bottom taper or using a fully-shaped edge. The hard square corners are a kick in the eyes, too, imo. While on grain, quarter-sawn material for the legs would eliminate the different grain pattern shown on the front and front rear legs--the rear one looks as though it is close from what can tell; the front has face on one side, edge on the other that doesn't match well... Tage Frid's first book (and I think it's also in Hoadley's) has a good demo of choosing grain direction for legs to make them nearly symmetric from each side... -- |
#56
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/3/2013 1:26 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:17:50 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote: On 7/3/2013 1:01 PM, wrote: ... Most woodworkers despise tilting their blade. .... From what data did you create that "statistic/fact"???? It is admittedly a based on limited data from reading forums and commentary. Take it for what it is but it shouldn't come as a shock. .... Which is, imo, worthless...unless one has a saw that is poorly made so that stops aren't reproducible--in which case it probably isn't very easy to rely on it for anything else, either. I don't see why it shouldn't (be a surprise/shock, that is)...as I think we've discussed before, there's a whole history of woodworking long before the 'net and forums even existed and it seems most of the ones around now are pretty much only relatively newcomers w/ little if any actual production experience. -- |
#57
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:32:11 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/3/2013 1:01 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 1:25:37 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote: On 7/3/2013 11:59 AM, woodchucker wrote: I am troubled by some of Brian's machine work, especially tablesaw work. I keep seeing the leading edge lifting, and in my opinion, his blade is too low, leading to some of the burning we see, and a huge potential for kick back. I keep the blade high, except with ply to avoid the potential, and the wood near the blade never lifts.. As far as Brian's design, I had no problem with it, only the execution. I think I would have cut the beveled edge on the TS instead of using the tilted router table fence. Why? It may be a faster maneuver but you need to swing your blade over and re-align to 90 degrees. (Here is where you tell me you trust your positive stop and we have a lengthy discussion about sawdust gumming up the works. ) Well in all honesty, I use a tilt box to verify that the positive stops are accurate with in .1 degrees and my rips produce square edges good enough for glue up. This was true for my old Jet cabinet saw and my new ICS SawStop. Most woodworkers despise tilting their blade. Well I will agree that many do but that is all in learning how to set the saw up so that you can trust its settings and stops. Personally I despise using chamfer bits on my router table. Too much set up time vs, tilting my blade. Which is exactly why I didn't use a chamfer bit. Tilting the router fence and using a straight bit is much faster (In my experience) than tilting and re-aligning a fence. And an insignificant point to pick on. Agree? I understand your concerns, been there and done that, but I have quite a bit more experience than you and have learned over the years what works better and how to work efficiently. You are incredibly hung up on "experience". That's twice you've used this one. As a Ph.D. chemist I have met some incredibly bad chemists that had more "experience" than me. And I have met M.S. level chemists that have rocked my world. It's meaningless and arbitrary and I don't understand your attraction to it. |
#58
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:34:47 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/3/2013 1:22 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:17:39 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote: On 7/3/2013 12:36 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 12:59:16 PM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote: On 7/3/2013 12:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote: Yeah, asking for criticism (quote: Criticism ok) then throwing a temper tantrum when criticism is received (albeit snarky and uncalled-for criticism) doesn't leave an observer with a good impression of Brian. Well, I was actually the first one who jumped in with a "Flame" for Tommy boy, who had actually encouraged me to do so with his comment about expecting flames for his post. Maybe I encouraged Garage boy by coming down on his side, which isn't always the case, I have trashed his stuff before as well. Tommy has the right to his opinion, and criticism was requested but I felt it was over the top in terms of harshness (is that a word?)and more denigrating than necessary so I jumped in to provide some defense, assuming Garage boy would likely not. I never did see Tommy's work (can't see fricking ABPW via my Google reader) and I loved Sam Maloof, he was a sweet and talented man and I learned a few things from him over the years but I have no love for that swoopy design type stuff so likely would be unimpressed. I don't look at workmanship based on my taste, I look at it purely as what went into it. Donkey sh*t. You judge "what went into it" based on your taste. Tommy Boy produced some nice work. I am confident that he presented what was his hand picked favorites. I found them to be weak and uninspiring. His best of the bunch was the Maloof knock-off chair but this didn't demonstrate the very trait that he crapped on me for. Being "unimaginative". I was not impressed by Brian's work, there were a few things that I found out of place, the lacewood was beautiful, but not well done, since the glue up put a piece that distracted.. Now were getting somewhere. Actual useful criticism. Could you point out the board you find distracting? Below is a picture of the top: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictu..._table/002.jpg To easily understand, you would need to repost the original picture, the one that this link has replaced. Like I told you when you originally asked - it was an artifact of the photography. Nothing wrong with the top. It is very pleasing to look at. But it shows up better in the first video opening shot below. The right middle top board here. It's all in how the light hits the wood. It is a very pleasing top to look at. I am sure it looks great but that first picture was not as flattering as the current. I have a few of myself that are like that. |
#59
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/3/2013 1:44 PM, dpb wrote:
On 7/3/2013 1:26 PM, wrote: On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 2:17:50 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote: On 7/3/2013 1:01 PM, wrote: ... Most woodworkers despise tilting their blade. ... From what data did you create that "statistic/fact"???? It is admittedly a based on limited data from reading forums and commentary. Take it for what it is but it shouldn't come as a shock. ... Which is, imo, worthless...unless one has a saw that is poorly made so that stops aren't reproducible--in which case it probably isn't very easy to rely on it for anything else, either. Brian has a perfectly good saw, he is just not comfortable in trusting his stops. |
#61
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
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#62
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 3:10:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/3/2013 1:46 PM, wrote: Most woodworkers despise tilting their blade. Well I will agree that many do but that is all in learning how to set the saw up so that you can trust its settings and stops. Personally I despise using chamfer bits on my router table. Too much set up time vs, tilting my blade. Which is exactly why I didn't use a chamfer bit. Tilting the router fence and using a straight bit is much faster (In my experience) than tilting and re-aligning a fence. And an insignificant point to pick on. Agree? LOL, I hope you meant to say, Tilting the router fence and using a straight bit is much faster (In my experience) than tilting and re-aligning a "blade". Yes. I caught it after I hit send. I'm going to end this here, unless someone really provokes me and say that the reason that I keep coming back to the wrec. (around 9-10 years ago I started posting - yeah!) is because I value yours, Swingman's and a few other's input. I should have ignored the mud throwing (which in my opinion wasn't constructive criticism or useful in any way - maybe I should have been more specific?). I'll be back! We work with the methods that we get the best results. I have been down the road you are going. You will be a much better woodworker because of that, years down the road. You experiment, you learn. You obviously put a great deal of thought into your tilting router fence. You see value in using the fence that way. We were just kicking around different methods of how we would have done some things differently, you can learn from that. Perhaps you will realize What tolerances are acceptable/noticeable and which are not. Some times being AR gets in the way of efficiency, I am an expert on that. ;~) Swingman and have built several kitchen in the past. In his shop he cuts dado's in the backs of the rails and stiles for the face frames and assembles the face frames. In my I cut the panels from the sheet goods which will fit into those dado's in the back of the face frames, and the sheet goods get dado's also. Eventually we bring all of the face frames and cabinets panels together and assemble the cabinets. We have to trust out machinery for the parts to fit perfectly every time. So in that example being equally AR is a good thing. ;~) Keep the imagination going! When I was 19 years old I had been interested in wood working for half my life. I was self taught and at that age designed and build a "contraption" that had a back fence to place my wood against and it had an adjustable height moveable fence that pivoted 180 degrees. The adjustable fence sat on top of the wood and acted as a guide for my circular saw. Basically I was trying to duplicate how a RAS operated. It worked great. That was 1974, long before SCMS existed. |
#63
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
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#64
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/3/2013 1:36 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 12:59:16 PM UTC-4, woodchucker wrote: found out of place, the lacewood was beautiful, but not well done, since the glue up put a piece that distracted.. Now were getting somewhere. Actual useful criticism. Could you point out the board you find distracting? Below is a picture of the top: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictu..._table/002.jpg That shot shows the top much better, the head on view looked like the grain was so vastly different that it did not belong. I now agree that it looks better. If I had no more lacewood, I would have move that to the outside where it would be less noticable instead of breaking up the pattern. What pattern? I am troubled by some of Brian's machine work, especially tablesaw work. I keep seeing the leading edge lifting, I also see what I consider poor machining on the jointer. I press down on the front of the board, and once I have enough room, both paddles are on the front, one overlaps the blade the other well in front. I never push from the back that way. If you look you will see it (TS ). Again, useful criticism. Could you point out the videos and time frame where a board "lifted"? I remember a piece of ply lifting a little but nothing dramatic. and in my opinion, his blade is too low, leading to some of the burning we see, and a huge potential for kick back. A blade too low leads to kickback? That's news to me. I keep the blade high, except with ply to avoid the potential, and the wood near the blade never lifts.. A blade that is excessively high is more dangerous than one that is too low (but still cuts all the way through). Could you elaborate here? As far as Brian's design, I had no problem with it, only the execution. Finally a complement (I think). Thank you -- Jeff -- Jeff |
#65
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote To this day I hate being in pictures of my finished work. I want the audience to focus on what is important in the picture. There is the famous Leon Fat Ass Sag Test, LFAST. I understand that you volunteered your wife for that test, but she refused. I thought it was epic. A simple test. Will it hold me up? If so, it will not sag under anything I place on this shelf. You can't get more basic (and pragmatic) than that! |
#66
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
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#67
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On Wednesday, July 3, 2013 4:43:07 PM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
wrote: You are incredibly hung up on "experience". That's twice you've used this one. As a Ph.D. chemist I have met some incredibly bad chemists that had more "experience" than me. And I have met M.S. level chemists that have rocked my world. It's meaningless and arbitrary and I don't understand your attraction to it. You have a doctoral degree in chemistry and you sought donations (here) to buy a video camera for your web site? Gee, that's pretty close to "deception by omission". I suppose it wouldn't make a difference if you knew I've been out of work since last December eh? Go lick a boot. |
#68
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote: wrote: You are incredibly hung up on "experience". That's twice you've used this one. As a Ph.D. chemist I have met some incredibly bad chemists that had more "experience" than me. And I have met M.S. level chemists that have rocked my world. It's meaningless and arbitrary and I don't understand your attraction to it. You have a doctoral degree in chemistry and you sought donations (here) to buy a video camera for your web site? Gee, that's pretty close to "deception by omission". Geeze Bill - that's kind of harsh. I know too many people with advanced degrees who are either out of work, or are forced to work way below what you or I might think they should be making. They still have all those bills to pay, regardless of what they're able to find for work. I would not be surprised at all if Brian's woodworking is considered his hobby in his household, and at least some aspects of it have to pay their own way, and not dip into the household budget. I would not consider that to be either abnormal, or unfair. The guy had a history of posting some pretty good videos before his plea, and he's continued to do so. In my not so humble opinion, there's enough worth in that offering, to make his plea acceptable. Mike, I respect your opinion. I don't expect anyone to wait for it, but the verdict is still out on my opinion in view of the new information. I wish Brian luck finding work. -Bill |
#69
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
A blade too low leads to kickback? That's news to me. Kickback occurs when for some reason the leading edge or underside of the board catches a tooth on the blade. This can be caused by the wood pinching between the bade and fence for various reasons such as bad feed method, stressed wood, expanding wood from blade heat, etc. If the blade is low it is easier for the rising wood to get over top of the blade and missile into your crotch in a literal millisecond, maybe bringing a few fingers along with it if your real unlucky. Yes a higher blade is safer in terms of avoiding kickback but has other dangers if you don't have a proper guard system, etc. |
#70
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
Lew Hodgett wrote: If you want to shill for Disney as the price of admission to view your work, then perform aerial intercourse on a rotating annular spheroid. Lew ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Casper" wrote: ..."perform aerial intercourse on a rotating annular spheroid" ?? Not enough coffee yet today to visually wrap my head around this one, but then I have a very imaginative mind so that may be a good thing. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How about, "Take a flying **** at a rolling donut"? Lew |
#71
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/3/2013 4:18 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
A blade too low leads to kickback? That's news to me. Kickback occurs when for some reason the leading edge or underside of the board catches a tooth on the blade. This can be caused by the wood pinching between the bade and fence for various reasons such as bad feed method, stressed wood, expanding wood from blade heat, etc. If the blade is low it is easier for the rising wood to get over top of the blade and missile into your crotch in a literal millisecond, maybe bringing a few fingers along with it if your real unlucky. Yes a higher blade is safer in terms of avoiding kickback but has other dangers if you don't have a proper guard system, etc. IME raising the blade simply decreases the chance for burning. The lower the blade the fewer exposed teeth. It is the pinching at the back of the blade that starts the dangerous situation, the reason the riving knife is used to help prevent that. |
#72
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
"Lee Michaels" leemichaels*nadaspam* at comcast dot net wrote:
"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote To this day I hate being in pictures of my finished work. I want the audience to focus on what is important in the picture. There is the famous Leon Fat Ass Sag Test, LFAST. I understand that you volunteered your wife for that test, but she refused. I thought it was epic. A simple test. Will it hold me up? If so, it will not sag under anything I place on this shelf. You can't get more basic (and pragmatic) than that! There is no proof that my face is on the other side of that "ass"! LOL |
#73
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
SonomaProducts.com wrote: A blade too low leads to kickback? That's news to me. ----------------------------------------------------------- "Leon" wrote: Kickback occurs when for some reason the leading edge or underside of the board catches a tooth on the blade. This can be caused by the wood pinching between the bade and fence for various reasons such as bad feed method, stressed wood, expanding wood from blade heat, etc. If the blade is low it is easier for the rising wood to get over top of the blade and missile into your crotch in a literal millisecond, maybe bringing a few fingers along with it if your real unlucky. Yes a higher blade is safer in terms of avoiding kickback but has other dangers if you don't have a proper guard system, etc. IME raising the blade simply decreases the chance for burning. The lower the blade the fewer exposed teeth. It is the pinching at the back of the blade that starts the dangerous situation, the reason the riving knife is used to help prevent that. ----------------------------------------------------------------- SFWIW, Cerritos College teaches: TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth + 1/2". Designed to minimize injury damage. (Need to give the surgeon something to sew back together) A riving knife is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to preventing kick back IMHO. Lew |
#74
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
Lew Hodgett wrote:
SonomaProducts.com wrote: A blade too low leads to kickback? That's news to me. ----------------------------------------------------------- "Leon" wrote: Kickback occurs when for some reason the leading edge or underside of the board catches a tooth on the blade. This can be caused by the wood pinching between the bade and fence for various reasons such as bad feed method, stressed wood, expanding wood from blade heat, etc. If the blade is low it is easier for the rising wood to get over top of the blade and missile into your crotch in a literal millisecond, maybe bringing a few fingers along with it if your real unlucky. Yes a higher blade is safer in terms of avoiding kickback but has other dangers if you don't have a proper guard system, etc. IME raising the blade simply decreases the chance for burning. The lower the blade the fewer exposed teeth. It is the pinching at the back of the blade that starts the dangerous situation, the reason the riving knife is used to help prevent that. ----------------------------------------------------------------- SFWIW, Cerritos College teaches: TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth + 1/2". Designed to minimize injury damage. Just curious whether anyone can validate Lew's technnique. It's more blade exposure than I would have thought required. Bill (Need to give the surgeon something to sew back together) A riving knife is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to preventing kick back IMHO. Lew |
#75
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
Lew Hodgett wrote: ----------------------------------------------------------------- SFWIW, Cerritos College teaches: TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth + 1/2". Designed to minimize injury damage. (Need to give the surgeon something to sew back together) A riving knife is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to preventing kick back IMHO. Lew Here's a short related thread from Lumberjocks: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/11838 |
#76
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On Wed, 03 Jul 2013 14:25:28 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
Now having said that, about 18 months ago Nailshooter, Swingman and their significant others were at our house visiting at Christmas time. Nailshooter took what I considered an embarrassing number of detailed, up close, and personal pictures of the "big pantry cabinet" that I had just completed. He insisted in me being in one of those pictures. And now that I have mentioned this and if he sees this post I can probably expect to see him post that picture. ;~( Why wait? Post it yourself and you can control the initial caption that comes with the image. |
#77
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
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#78
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/4/2013 12:05 AM, Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote: .... SFWIW, Cerritos College teaches: TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth + 1/2". .... Just curious whether anyone can validate Lew's technnique. It's more blade exposure than I would have thought required. .... Industrial text (don't recall it's pedigree/author/publisher otomh and it's not handy to look) was taught from "back in the day" at uni industrial shop was "gullet plus a little" -- anything more wasn't of value kickback and adds to the likelihood of accidental contact. Pretty similar although a full half-inch above clearing gullet height would have been considered more than a little--more like quarter/maybe 3/8" would have been approved of... Research I'm unaware of; I'd wager these ad hoc rules came from practical application rather than any research specifically designed for the purpose. -- |
#79
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/4/2013 1:30 AM, Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote: ----------------------------------------------------------------- SFWIW, Cerritos College teaches: TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth + 1/2". Designed to minimize injury damage. (Need to give the surgeon something to sew back together) A riving knife is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to preventing kick back IMHO. Lew Here's a short related thread from Lumberjocks: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/11838 Bill, you do what you like, For me it makes sense to cool the carbide. It also makes sense that cutting down will cause less kick back than cutting into the wood. if for some reason you veer from the fence, you cause a bind (slight) but the teeth are pushing toward you. When the blade is high, they are pushing toward the table top. Take a look at Brian's cuts, see the burning. Too low, so Brian prides himself on a good setup and is still burning. So either he is moving too slow or he has the blade too low.. or both.. BTW why is having the blade low safe??? you can barely see it.. you may not cut all the way through a finger, but it can cut you good, and it can kickback more easily. So why is it safer... All of this is what I find better, you may find something else. That's fine... -- Jeff |
#80
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/4/2013 12:05 AM, Bill wrote:
Lew Hodgett wrote: SonomaProducts.com wrote: A blade too low leads to kickback? That's news to me. ----------------------------------------------------------- "Leon" wrote: Kickback occurs when for some reason the leading edge or underside of the board catches a tooth on the blade. This can be caused by the wood pinching between the bade and fence for various reasons such as bad feed method, stressed wood, expanding wood from blade heat, etc. If the blade is low it is easier for the rising wood to get over top of the blade and missile into your crotch in a literal millisecond, maybe bringing a few fingers along with it if your real unlucky. Yes a higher blade is safer in terms of avoiding kickback but has other dangers if you don't have a proper guard system, etc. IME raising the blade simply decreases the chance for burning. The lower the blade the fewer exposed teeth. It is the pinching at the back of the blade that starts the dangerous situation, the reason the riving knife is used to help prevent that. ----------------------------------------------------------------- SFWIW, Cerritos College teaches: TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth + 1/2". Designed to minimize injury damage. Just curious whether anyone can validate Lew's technnique. It's more blade exposure than I would have thought required. Use the height you are most comfortable. You can get a kick back any time you are cutting wood on a TS. The only written suggestion that I have seen was by Systematic, IIRC it suggested that the bottom of the gullet should be just above the top of the wood. |
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