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#81
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
On 7/4/2013 9:23 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On 7/4/2013 1:30 AM, Bill wrote: Lew Hodgett wrote: ----------------------------------------------------------------- SFWIW, Cerritos College teaches: TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth + 1/2". Designed to minimize injury damage. (Need to give the surgeon something to sew back together) A riving knife is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to preventing kick back IMHO. Lew Here's a short related thread from Lumberjocks: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/11838 Bill, you do what you like, For me it makes sense to cool the carbide. It also makes sense that cutting down will cause less kick back than cutting into the wood. if for some reason you veer from the fence, you cause a bind (slight) but the teeth are pushing toward you. When the blade is high, they are pushing toward the table top. Take a look at Brian's cuts, see the burning. Too low, so Brian prides himself on a good setup and is still burning. So either he is moving too slow or he has the blade too low.. or both.. Or cutting Cherry! It is tough not to burn cherry. |
#82
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
..."perform aerial intercourse on a rotating annular spheroid" ??
Not enough coffee yet today to visually wrap my head around this one, but then I have a very imaginative mind so that may be a good thing. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How about, "Take a flying **** at a rolling donut"? Lew --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Naa. Even after coffee, rotating annular spheroid is much more effective and thought provoking. As Einstein said, imagination is more important than knowledge. |
#83
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cherry/Lacewood Side Table
Addendum:
Should read: TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth + 1/2" MAX. I need an editor, especially late at night. Lew --------------------------------------------------------- SonomaProducts.com wrote: A blade too low leads to kickback? That's news to me. ----------------------------------------------------------- "Leon" wrote: Kickback occurs when for some reason the leading edge or underside of the board catches a tooth on the blade. This can be caused by the wood pinching between the bade and fence for various reasons such as bad feed method, stressed wood, expanding wood from blade heat, etc. If the blade is low it is easier for the rising wood to get over top of the blade and missile into your crotch in a literal millisecond, maybe bringing a few fingers along with it if your real unlucky. Yes a higher blade is safer in terms of avoiding kickback but has other dangers if you don't have a proper guard system, etc. IME raising the blade simply decreases the chance for burning. The lower the blade the fewer exposed teeth. It is the pinching at the back of the blade that starts the dangerous situation, the reason the riving knife is used to help prevent that. ----------------------------------------------------------------- SFWIW, Cerritos College teaches: TS blade exposure = material thickness being cut + max gullet depth + 1/2". Designed to minimize injury damage. (Need to give the surgeon something to sew back together) A riving knife is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to preventing kick back IMHO. Lew |
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