I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back from the
lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the design from a
catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By the way the table
sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)

For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down to some
dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4 boards to get the
required width. I have never done this before. Here is how I plan on doing
it:

Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and clamp
the **** out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.

Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about seeing
small voids between laminations after I rip to width.



--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.

Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about seeing
small voids between laminations after I rip to width.


As you always should, totally coat the surface with glue and put as many
clamps on the set up as you can. It is easier to glue all the pieces at one
time however the pieces tend to slip a bit. You can shoot a short brad in
to each inner piece to keep them from creeping when applying the pressure.
BE SURE to keep the brads near the center so that you do not cut into them
when you cut the taper and square the corners.

If your boards are flat you should not have any void problems.

BTY did the new Rikon motor fix the problem you were having?

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message

Is it easier than I think?

Yes.

This is something you get used to doing when you work with quarter sawn
white oak as you gernally can't find it any thicker than 8/4.

In addition, and although it is mostly done with quartersawn wood to show
the QS face on all four sides, you might want to consider doing
"quadralinear legs" for appearance sake.

DAGS ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

stoutman wrote:
I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back
from the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the
design from a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By
the way the table sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)

For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down
to some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4
boards to get the required width. I have never done this before.
Here is how I plan on doing it:

Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and
clamp the **** out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side
etc.

Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about
seeing small voids between laminations after I rip to width.

Gluing together without voids isn't a problem assuming the pieces are
smooth. The problem comes when you taper them...tapering the sides
showing the individual three edges isn't a problem but tapering the face
sides will reveal a wide glue line and dissimilar grain where you cut
through one board to another. To avoid that you can either...

1. taper the individual pieces before gluing (harder to glue since faces
won't be parallel).

2. taper *more* than you want after gluing then glue a thin piece to the
ugly reveal side.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:kWy%f.9589$wH1.3222@trnddc03...
stoutman wrote:
I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back
from the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the
design from a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By
the way the table sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)

For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down
to some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4
boards to get the required width. I have never done this before.
Here is how I plan on doing it:

Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and
clamp the **** out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side
etc.

Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about
seeing small voids between laminations after I rip to width.

Gluing together without voids isn't a problem assuming the pieces are
smooth. The problem comes when you taper them...tapering the sides
showing the individual three edges isn't a problem but tapering the face
sides will reveal a wide glue line and dissimilar grain where you cut
through one board to another. To avoid that you can either...

1. taper the individual pieces before gluing (harder to glue since faces
won't be parallel).

2. taper *more* than you want after gluing then glue a thin piece to the
ugly reveal side.

Or, you could put the taper/cut side on the back and use the solid side.

On Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:56:48 GMT, dadiOH wrote:
Gluing together without voids isn't a problem assuming the pieces are
smooth. The problem comes when you taper them...tapering the sides
showing the individual three edges isn't a problem but tapering the face
sides will reveal a wide glue line and dissimilar grain where you cut
through one board to another. To avoid that you can either...

1. taper the individual pieces before gluing (harder to glue since faces
won't be parallel).

Tape the cut-offs back on the outside to provide parallel surfaces for clamps.
Line them with clear packing tape to keep the glue squeeze-out from sticking
to them.

--
Art

As you always should, totally coat the surface with glue and put as many
clamps on the set up as you can. It is easier to glue all the pieces at
one time however the pieces tend to slip a bit. You can shoot a short
brad in to each inner piece to keep them from creeping when applying the
pressure. BE SURE to keep the brads near the center so that you do not cut
into them when you cut the taper and square the corners.

Thanks for the info! I think I have seen David Marks use that brad trick.
It didnt occur to me to use it here.

If your boards are flat you should not have any void problems.

BTY did the new Rikon motor fix the problem you were having?

I havent swapped them out yet. The problem has not repeated itself for a
few days. I might just hang onto the extra motor until the problem
resurfaces.

"stoutman"
I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back from
the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the design from
a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By the way the table
sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)

For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down to
some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4 boards to
get the required width. I have never done this before. Here is how I
plan on doing it:

Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and clamp
the **** out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.

Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about seeing
small voids between laminations after I rip to width.
--

Small voids are usually the result of too few clamps and too much pressure.
(With the assumption the wood surfaces are flat.) Cauls will help.

Layout the taper before you glue. Position the layout to get the best grain
pattern and avoid getting too close to the glue line. Or taper the legs
then apply a 1/8" veneer over the sides with the glue line - this will leave
a small glue line close to the edge.

Dave

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back from
the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the design from
a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By the way the table
sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)

For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down to
some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4 boards to
get the required width. I have never done this before. Here is how I
plan on doing it:

Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and clamp
the **** out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side etc.

Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about seeing
small voids between laminations after I rip to width.

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

If it was me, I'd rethink things a bit. I can get 10/4 and 12/4 cherry at
my local place. I'd do my best to purchase the thickness I'm aiming for on
the legs rather than using a glued-up leg. For the amount of wood I'm
guessing we're talking about for the legs, the cost difference would only be
about $20 if I bought it at my local place. Even if you figure in scrap and
the fact that you might not be able to buy a piece exactly the size you
need, even if it was $40 more it would be worth it (IMHO) to not have to
deal with having a glued-up leg. I did just this on a cherry coffee table.

todd

If it was me, I'd rethink things a bit. I can get 10/4 and 12/4 cherry at
my local place. I'd do my best to purchase the thickness I'm aiming for
on the legs rather than using a glued-up leg. For the amount of wood I'm
guessing we're talking about for the legs, the cost difference would only
be about $20 if I bought it at my local place. Even if you figure in
scrap and the fact that you might not be able to buy a piece exactly the
size you need, even if it was $40 more it would be worth it (IMHO) to not
have to deal with having a glued-up leg. I did just this on a cherry
coffee table.

todd



The thickest my lumber yard carries cherry is 8/4. Believe me, I would
rather NOT have to do laminations if it was avoidable.

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
If it was me, I'd rethink things a bit. I can get 10/4 and 12/4 cherry
at my local place. I'd do my best to purchase the thickness I'm aiming
for on the legs rather than using a glued-up leg. For the amount of wood
I'm guessing we're talking about for the legs, the cost difference would
only be about $20 if I bought it at my local place. Even if you figure
in scrap and the fact that you might not be able to buy a piece exactly
the size you need, even if it was $40 more it would be worth it (IMHO) to
not have to deal with having a glued-up leg. I did just this on a cherry
coffee table.

todd



The thickest my lumber yard carries cherry is 8/4. Believe me, I would
rather NOT have to do laminations if it was avoidable.

Yes, we are all ultimately at the mercy of local availability. Now I
realize this might not exactly go along with the concept of building
everything yourself, but http://www.osbornewood.com/1082.cfm is an option.

todd

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
If it was me, I'd rethink things a bit. I can get 10/4 and 12/4 cherry
at my local place. I'd do my best to purchase the thickness I'm aiming
for on the legs rather than using a glued-up leg. For the amount of wood
I'm guessing we're talking about for the legs, the cost difference would
only be about $20 if I bought it at my local place. Even if you figure
in scrap and the fact that you might not be able to buy a piece exactly
the size you need, even if it was $40 more it would be worth it (IMHO) to
not have to deal with having a glued-up leg. I did just this on a cherry
coffee table.

todd



The thickest my lumber yard carries cherry is 8/4. Believe me, I would
rather NOT have to do laminations if it was avoidable.


Hopefully this piece is going to be around long after we are gone. Take the
time to do it right and purchase the correct wood. I order lots of wood
that I can't get locally. Two of the best for cherry are

http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/
http://www.grofflumber.com/

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...


The thickest my lumber yard carries cherry is 8/4. Believe me, I would
rather NOT have to do laminations if it was avoidable.


Where you at? I think I have an 8' 12 or 14/4 chunk in storage. If your
somewhere on the way between Edmonton to Toronto I could drop it of for you.
Let me know and I can look for it this weekend.
Jim

Where you at? I think I have an 8' 12 or 14/4 chunk in storage. If your
somewhere on the way between Edmonton to Toronto I could drop it of for
you. Let me know and I can look for it this weekend.
Jim


Thanks Jim for the offer!!!

I am in High Point NC. Wall Lumber is where I usually go and they don't
carry 12/4 cherry. I just found out that the Hardwood Store East of me
carries 12/4 cherry at $9.05 bd/ft.

I am going to cruise over there tomorrow morning!

Thanks to all that responded. You guys convinced me that I shouldn't settle
for the lamination route!

I am in High Point NC. Wall Lumber is where I usually go and they don't
carry 12/4 cherry. The biggest is 8/4. I am not sure why they wouldn't
carry a12/4 of a very popular furniture making lumber. I can understand not
having zebra wood in 12/4, but CHERRY???

I just found out that the Hardwood Store East of me
carries 12/4 cherry at $9.05 bd/ft. I am going to cruise over there
tomorrow morning!


Thanks again...


--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

Toller wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:kWy%f.9589$wH1.3222@trnddc03...
stoutman wrote:
I am starting a cherry table project this weekend. I just got back
from the lumber yard $250.00 for the lumber. I am semi-copying the
design from a catalog (thanks for the dimensions Ethan Allen!!. (By
the way the table sells for $1,200.- Ouch!)

For the legs the Woman wants them 2.5" at the top and tapering down
to some dimension to be determined. I am going to laminate 3 4/4
boards to get the required width. I have never done this before.
Here is how I plan on doing it:

Rough cut to width and face joint all joining faces. Apply glue and
clamp the **** out of it. Clean one edge, joint and rip other side
etc.

Is there something I need to really pay attention to in doing this
lamination? Is it easier than I think? I think I am worried about
seeing small voids between laminations after I rip to width.

Gluing together without voids isn't a problem assuming the pieces are
smooth. The problem comes when you taper them...tapering the sides
showing the individual three edges isn't a problem but tapering the
face sides will reveal a wide glue line and dissimilar grain where
you cut through one board to another. To avoid that you can
either...

1. taper the individual pieces before gluing (harder to glue since
faces won't be parallel).

2. taper *more* than you want after gluing then glue a thin piece to
the ugly reveal side.

Or, you could put the taper/cut side on the back and use the solid
side.

It will show regardless of which sides are tapered.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

When you're there, can you check if they have any veneer? They don't
list it on their website, but I thought I saw some last time I was
there. I'm looking for birds-eye or tiger maple. I can order it from
lots of places online, but I'd prefer to examine each piece closely
before buying.

Has the new little guy arrived yet?

Josh

"Josh" wrote in message
ups.com...
When you're there, can you check if they have any veneer? They don't
list it on their website, but I thought I saw some last time I was
there. I'm looking for birds-eye or tiger maple. I can order it from
lots of places online, but I'd prefer to examine each piece closely
before buying.


Josh


Sorry. I didnt see your post until I got back!

Has the new little guy arrived yet?

Yes. 9lbs 1 oz. All he does is eat, sleep, poop, pee and cry and c r y
and C R Y!!!


--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message

Has the new little guy arrived yet?

Yes. 9lbs 1 oz. All he does is eat, sleep, poop, pee and cry and c r y
and C R Y!!!

... and, getting down to practical basics, that's all they do for the next 21
years.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

Has the new little guy arrived yet?
Stoutman
Yes. 9lbs 1 oz. All he does is eat, sleep, poop, pee and cry and c r y
and C R Y!!!

Congratulations!

Dave

In article ,
"todd" wrote:

I did just this on a cherry coffee table.

So did I. It's well worth the few extra dollars to get the 12/4.
Laminated legs look like...mmm..laminated legs.

Yeah, but does he like the dresser? He probably doesn't appreciate the
birds-eye maple drawer backs.


stoutman wrote:
"Josh" wrote in message
ups.com...
When you're there, can you check if they have any veneer? They don't
list it on their website, but I thought I saw some last time I was
there. I'm looking for birds-eye or tiger maple. I can order it from
lots of places online, but I'd prefer to examine each piece closely
before buying.


Josh


Sorry. I didnt see your post until I got back!

Has the new little guy arrived yet?

Yes. 9lbs 1 oz. All he does is eat, sleep, poop, pee and cry and c r y
and C R Y!!!


--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

Yeah, but does he like the dresser? He probably doesn't appreciate the
birds-eye maple drawer backs.



Yeah, probably not. When I start passing on to him all of the wisdom I have
gained through the years building fine furniture, birds-eye maple drawer
backs is going to be in there!

Smarty pants!