First turning of the winter.
Australian Lacewood, Peruvian Walnut, Maple, and Black Mesquite
with Maple and Ebonized veneer details. Lacquer Finish - incomplete.
Ended up "thicker" than intended.
Now using larger graph paper and drawing to scale to better predict
the final shape. Next one should be more what I'm after.

Side:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood01.jpg

Top/Bottom:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood02.jpg

Waaay too many hours. Now to find some fool who wants a $500 pot. ;-)
FWIW,

Greg G.

Nice work Greg. My wife keeps threatening that I need to some more segmented
work. Not my thing but I love to see it done.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...

First turning of the winter.
Australian Lacewood, Peruvian Walnut, Maple, and Black Mesquite
with Maple and Ebonized veneer details. Lacquer Finish - incomplete.
Ended up "thicker" than intended.
Now using larger graph paper and drawing to scale to better predict
the final shape. Next one should be more what I'm after.

Side:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood01.jpg

Top/Bottom:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood02.jpg

Waaay too many hours. Now to find some fool who wants a $500 pot. ;-)
FWIW,

Greg G.

very nice work! There someone out there that would be willing to part with
their money for something that looks this nice.
"Greg G." wrote in message
...

First turning of the winter.
Australian Lacewood, Peruvian Walnut, Maple, and Black Mesquite
with Maple and Ebonized veneer details. Lacquer Finish - incomplete.
Ended up "thicker" than intended.
Now using larger graph paper and drawing to scale to better predict
the final shape. Next one should be more what I'm after.

Side:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood01.jpg

Top/Bottom:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood02.jpg

Waaay too many hours. Now to find some fool who wants a $500 pot. ;-)
FWIW,

Greg G.

That's one handsome bowl, Greg. It would be even without segmenting. I
don't turn anything that requires graphing, which is one reason why your
_bowl bottoms look better than my _bowl tops.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Darrell Feltmate said:

Nice work Greg. My wife keeps threatening that I need to some more segmented
work. Not my thing but I love to see it done.

Thanks, Darrell.
It's easier for me to get milled lumber than to find felled trees
around here - one reason I do a lot of segmented stuff. I've only spun
a few spalted birch, pear, magnolia, and cherry green wood turnings.
And they were mostly, at first anyway, limbs downed in storms. Just
for practice, you know. Many warped or split, or were just plain ugly.
Tension wood isn't so good for turning anything permanent.

I've been tempted to drive out to rural areas and look for freshly
downed trees to cut up before the firewood guys/property owners show
up. I love the unbroken, organic look of natural woods as well as the
methodical, ordered appearance of segmented turnings - possibly more.
Also, my chainsaw is only a 14 incher. So, alas, no birdseye elm for
me. I can't even find spalted sweetgum or hackberry. I wanted to try
some alabaster, but can't find it locally either. No artists or
sculptors around here, apparently.

As for the wife's desires, what is that old bromide?
No one is happy unless mom is happy? ;-)


Greg G.

Steven Raphael said:

very nice work! There someone out there that would be willing to part with
their money for something that looks this nice.

Thanks, Steven. I'm hoping so. I could use an ambient air cleaner to
deal with the toxic black walnut and sapore dust this stuff kicks up.


Greg G.

Arch said:

That's one handsome bowl, Greg. It would be even without segmenting. I
don't turn anything that requires graphing, which is one reason why your
_bowl bottoms look better than my _bowl tops.


Thanks, Arch. But remember that two years ago, I had never seen a
lathe, and it was all the good advise from the sages here in r.c.w
that led me down this slippery slope of expensive tool acquisitions.

Me thinks you might exaggerate a wee bit, however, but thanks for the
vote of confidence. Maybe in a dozen or so more years. Now if I could
find green wood that isn't pine, or being guarded and ultimately
trucked off to Georgia Pacific. :-\


Greg G.

Hello Greg,
I built one using an old squirrel cage fan and motor from a house
furnace. I built a box around it and stack 2 or 3 furnace filters in
the input side. It sits about 2 foot off the floor of the shop and
works. How do I know? the filters get dirty. Now hanging it from
the ceiling closer to the lathe would be better but space is not
available.


On Dec 6, 3:38 pm, Greg wrote:
Steven Raphael said:

very nice work! There someone out there that would be willing to part with
their money for something that looks this nice.

Thanks, Steven. I'm hoping so. I could use an ambient air cleaner to
deal with the toxic black walnut and sapore dust this stuff kicks up.

Greg G.

Greg
If you are handy the country, see if you can locate a firewood dealer and
buy a half cord or so of fresh cut wood. Immediately seal the ends with
Anchorseal and you have the next year or two worth of turning. Most of the
guys will smile funny and then truck the half cord to you in their half ton.
Usually they sell three cord plus at a time. This is a cheap way to get wood
when felled logs are not free.
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/firewood.shtml

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Darrell Feltmate said:

Nice work Greg. My wife keeps threatening that I need to some more
segmented
work. Not my thing but I love to see it done.

Thanks, Darrell.
It's easier for me to get milled lumber than to find felled trees
around here - one reason I do a lot of segmented stuff. I've only spun
a few spalted birch, pear, magnolia, and cherry green wood turnings.
And they were mostly, at first anyway, limbs downed in storms. Just
for practice, you know. Many warped or split, or were just plain ugly.
Tension wood isn't so good for turning anything permanent.

I've been tempted to drive out to rural areas and look for freshly
downed trees to cut up before the firewood guys/property owners show
up. I love the unbroken, organic look of natural woods as well as the
methodical, ordered appearance of segmented turnings - possibly more.
Also, my chainsaw is only a 14 incher. So, alas, no birdseye elm for
me. I can't even find spalted sweetgum or hackberry. I wanted to try
some alabaster, but can't find it locally either. No artists or
sculptors around here, apparently.

As for the wife's desires, what is that old bromide?
No one is happy unless mom is happy? ;-)


Greg G.

On Dec 6, 5:17 am, Greg wrote:
First turning of the winter.
Australian Lacewood, Peruvian Walnut, Maple, and Black Mesquite
with Maple and Ebonized veneer details. Lacquer Finish - incomplete.
Ended up "thicker" than intended.
Now using larger graph paper and drawing to scale to better predict
the final shape. Next one should be more what I'm after.

Side:http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood01.jpg

Top/Bottom:http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood02.jpg

Waaay too many hours. Now to find some fool who wants a $500 pot. ;-)
FWIW,

Greg G.

Hi Greg, If your not happy with the thickness why not remount it and
reduce it a bit. If you can't get the calipers inside because of the
smaller opening why not cut the rim off, re-turn it and put it back.
Usually too thick isn't a problem. Better too thick than too thin.
Also unless you really enjoy the drawing process a program like
woodturner pro will save a lot of time and headaches. While I like the
drawing process it gets old after a while. I'd much rather be building
and turning than drawing. Bob
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com

Darrell Feltmate said:

If you are handy the country, see if you can locate a firewood dealer and
buy a half cord or so of fresh cut wood. Immediately seal the ends with
Anchorseal and you have the next year or two worth of turning. ....

Thanks, Darrell. I know the routine, but I live amidst the blight of
a large southern city. It's 20-40 miles just to get to outer
suburbia. If I invested more time into procuring stuff, I might do
better, but with gas and time being at a premium...


Greg G.

I hear ya Greg. Try an arborist in the city. Even in the urban and suburban
blight we manifest so well, there are usually trees and some of them need to
come down now and then. While some of the arborists sell wood, most have a
disposal problem and will sell it cheaply or give it away. Sometimes a bowl
or two can be exchanged for a lot of wood. Worth looking into and can't
hurt.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Darrell Feltmate said:

If you are handy the country, see if you can locate a firewood dealer and
buy a half cord or so of fresh cut wood. Immediately seal the ends with
Anchorseal and you have the next year or two worth of turning. ....

Thanks, Darrell. I know the routine, but I live amidst the blight of
a large southern city. It's 20-40 miles just to get to outer
suburbia. If I invested more time into procuring stuff, I might do
better, but with gas and time being at a premium...


Greg G.

Kevin said:

I built one using an old squirrel cage fan and motor from a house
furnace. I built a box around it and stack 2 or 3 furnace filters in
the input side. It sits about 2 foot off the floor of the shop and
works. How do I know? the filters get dirty. Now hanging it from
the ceiling closer to the lathe would be better but space is not
available.

Thanks, Kevin.
I would do what you suggest, but I'm not in the HVAC business, and the
local dump won't let you scavenge. What a waste, eh? A local dealer
has the small Jet for $220, and by the time I drive around and look
for "parts", I could just buy one. With an electrostatic + pocket
filter and a timer/remote. I have used a box fan with an allergen
filter, and it helps, but the super fine dust from 600+ sandpaper
applied to exotics and lacquer remains a problem.

I just built a dust hood for the lathe out of scraps, and this seems
to help considerably. In the warmer months, the dust collector goes
outside, but in the winter I can't afford the heat loss.

Scrap Materials Lathe Hood:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood01.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood02.jpg



Greg G.

turnerbob said:

Hi Greg, If your not happy with the thickness why not remount it and
reduce it a bit. If you can't get the calipers inside because of the
smaller opening why not cut the rim off, re-turn it and put it back.
Usually too thick isn't a problem. Better too thick than too thin.

By thickness, I was referring to the ultimate shape more than wall
thickness. There is no "extra" material there to work with.
It just seems rather blobby, and I was after a slimmer, more modern
look. Unfortunately, the close dimensions I cut this stuff to doesn't
leave much room for variation in shape once planned and cut.

Also unless you really enjoy the drawing process a program like
woodturner pro will save a lot of time and headaches. While I like the
drawing process it gets old after a while. I'd much rather be building
and turning than drawing.

I understand. I have a computer program, but unfortunately it doesn't
really show the whole picture. Subtle aspect ratio variations occur
between the image on the screen and the resulting bowl. So I draw half
the shape (and mirror) and use those measurements to plan the cut
list. Due to the high cost of some of the woods, I leave only an
approximate 1/16" margin for error. I haven't tried Woodturner Pro in
a few years, but I preferred Segmented Project Planner at the time. I
ended up writing my own program in C++ so that coding mods could be
made easily in-house.


Greg G.

Greg
Nice pictures and a good idea. I have something like it but not as nice.
Mind if I use the pictures on the web site, with credit of course. Send me a
private e-mail if you like. It is an easy link off the site.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Kevin said:

I built one using an old squirrel cage fan and motor from a house
furnace. I built a box around it and stack 2 or 3 furnace filters in
the input side. It sits about 2 foot off the floor of the shop and
works. How do I know? the filters get dirty. Now hanging it from
the ceiling closer to the lathe would be better but space is not
available.

Thanks, Kevin.
I would do what you suggest, but I'm not in the HVAC business, and the
local dump won't let you scavenge. What a waste, eh? A local dealer
has the small Jet for $220, and by the time I drive around and look
for "parts", I could just buy one. With an electrostatic + pocket
filter and a timer/remote. I have used a box fan with an allergen
filter, and it helps, but the super fine dust from 600+ sandpaper
applied to exotics and lacquer remains a problem.

I just built a dust hood for the lathe out of scraps, and this seems
to help considerably. In the warmer months, the dust collector goes
outside, but in the winter I can't afford the heat loss.

Scrap Materials Lathe Hood:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood01.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood02.jpg



Greg G.

Darrell Feltmate said:

Greg
Nice pictures and a good idea. I have something like it but not as nice.
Mind if I use the pictures on the web site, with credit of course. Send me a
private e-mail if you like. It is an easy link off the site.

You are more than welcome to it. I've already modded the base
slightly to allow the use of my DIY 16" disk sanding platform. (It
worked fine with a 10" disc, but the base had to modified to clear the
16" sanding disk and the sanding platform.) I'll post a few newer
pictures below to demonstrate, along with the originals.

Even though it might appear that much of the air flow is lost due to
the large amount of "clearance", it actually works very well. One
further modification I would recommend would be adding a ~1/4" mesh
hardware cloth screen covering the inlet to eliminate sandpaper and
such from being sucked into the DC. Also, I should have moved the DC
inlet more to the right, but at the time, wanted the maximum support
offered by the base, and did not want to drill holes in the lathe bed
to mounting accessories. The port's placement turned out to be
unnecessary, as additional support is provided by a convenient Allen
head bolt protruding from the headstock. There is a hole drilled
precisely where the bolt protrudes, and the hood slips over this bolt
head on this particular lathe. Glue and brads hold the minimal
framework together. The replaceable corrugated cardboard shield is
stapled on around it's periphery.

The dust collector is an old Delta 850 CFM roll around unit with two
14"x30" bags and a homemade pre-collector. With fine dust like this,
it is best to allow a little "cake" to accumulate on the inside of the
bags - otherwise it just shoots through the bag material. I haven't
gotten around to buying any "shaker felt" bags, yet.

I don't believe it would work very well with your average shop vac as
is, although you might try closing up some of the excessive "air
space" surrounding the rotating components, such as behind the
faceplate. A baffle or two to orient the airflow to the end user's
particular lathe/setup might be useful as well. The sanding platform
has a shop vac fitting on the rear, and it does work surprisingly
well, just not well enough. And of course it does nothing to remove
the dust created by finish sanding a piece.

The close up of the lathe bed "clamp" block was meant to illustrate
the self-aligning feature of the clamp block. When tightening the
handnut, the block "tends" to rotate clockwise and is locked into
position by the unrounded corners. When loosening, the block tends to
rotate counterclockwise past the rounded corners and allows removal
through the bed ways. Just a little touch that makes it easier to
install without stooping under the lathe to install and line up the
attaching hardware.

The impetus for this 10 minute "design" was turning black walnut and
lacewood, etc. On my last project, the fine dust generated by ring
sanding, in addition to the vessel's final sanding, left a haze in the
air for hours. Masks don't seem to seal well on my face yet I was
quite certain I didn't want to breathe this mess, so removal at the
source was my first line of attack.

I would also like to cobble up an ambient air filter, although it may
be cheaper to simply purchase one during the "holiday sales" period.
The little Jet AFS-1000B looks decent for the money. DIY air filters
are problematic in that removal of the very fine (2 micron) dust is
paramount, and your average furnace filter isn't up to the task. Just
because it turns brown doesn't mean it is removing the most harmful
tiny stuff. An electrostatic filter is almost mandatory for fines, yet
the ones I see marketed don't look all that effective either.

As always, Caveat Emptor.

Original Unit - Installed View.
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood01.jpg

Original Unit - Bottom Detail View.
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood02.jpg

Modified Base - Installed View, along with an assortment of DIY stuff.
(speed controller pod, footswitch, laser straightedge, vacuum chuck)
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood03.jpg

Installed View with 16" Sanding Disk.
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood04.jpg

Installed View with Sanding Disk and sliding platform.
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood05.jpg


Appologies for the rambling, lengthy reply. But perhaps this will fuel
someone's imagination out in Usenet Land and help them avoid the wood
colored mucus which the body expels, and possibly even lung cancer.

FWIW,

Greg G.

Greg
Thanks for the permission and the extra pictures. I obviously like things
people make themselves to answer workshop problems. What kind of sanding
masks are you using that have a hard time fitting your face? I used to use
those paper ones and had a hard time as well. Now I use a decent two
cartridge system and it fits great. My problem with dust is a cleaning
problem not so mauch a lung one, except that any dust that settles on the
surfaces could be settling in my lungs any time I am not wearing a mask. I
too am considering one of those air cleaning systems.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Darrell Feltmate said:

Greg
Nice pictures and a good idea. I have something like it but not as nice.
Mind if I use the pictures on the web site, with credit of course. Send me
a
private e-mail if you like. It is an easy link off the site.

You are more than welcome to it. I've already modded the base
slightly to allow the use of my DIY 16" disk sanding platform. (It
worked fine with a 10" disc, but the base had to modified to clear the
16" sanding disk and the sanding platform.) I'll post a few newer
pictures below to demonstrate, along with the originals.

Even though it might appear that much of the air flow is lost due to
the large amount of "clearance", it actually works very well. One
further modification I would recommend would be adding a ~1/4" mesh
hardware cloth screen covering the inlet to eliminate sandpaper and
such from being sucked into the DC. Also, I should have moved the DC
inlet more to the right, but at the time, wanted the maximum support
offered by the base, and did not want to drill holes in the lathe bed
to mounting accessories. The port's placement turned out to be
unnecessary, as additional support is provided by a convenient Allen
head bolt protruding from the headstock. There is a hole drilled
precisely where the bolt protrudes, and the hood slips over this bolt
head on this particular lathe. Glue and brads hold the minimal
framework together. The replaceable corrugated cardboard shield is
stapled on around it's periphery.

The dust collector is an old Delta 850 CFM roll around unit with two
14"x30" bags and a homemade pre-collector. With fine dust like this,
it is best to allow a little "cake" to accumulate on the inside of the
bags - otherwise it just shoots through the bag material. I haven't
gotten around to buying any "shaker felt" bags, yet.

I don't believe it would work very well with your average shop vac as
is, although you might try closing up some of the excessive "air
space" surrounding the rotating components, such as behind the
faceplate. A baffle or two to orient the airflow to the end user's
particular lathe/setup might be useful as well. The sanding platform
has a shop vac fitting on the rear, and it does work surprisingly
well, just not well enough. And of course it does nothing to remove
the dust created by finish sanding a piece.

The close up of the lathe bed "clamp" block was meant to illustrate
the self-aligning feature of the clamp block. When tightening the
handnut, the block "tends" to rotate clockwise and is locked into
position by the unrounded corners. When loosening, the block tends to
rotate counterclockwise past the rounded corners and allows removal
through the bed ways. Just a little touch that makes it easier to
install without stooping under the lathe to install and line up the
attaching hardware.

The impetus for this 10 minute "design" was turning black walnut and
lacewood, etc. On my last project, the fine dust generated by ring
sanding, in addition to the vessel's final sanding, left a haze in the
air for hours. Masks don't seem to seal well on my face yet I was
quite certain I didn't want to breathe this mess, so removal at the
source was my first line of attack.

I would also like to cobble up an ambient air filter, although it may
be cheaper to simply purchase one during the "holiday sales" period.
The little Jet AFS-1000B looks decent for the money. DIY air filters
are problematic in that removal of the very fine (2 micron) dust is
paramount, and your average furnace filter isn't up to the task. Just
because it turns brown doesn't mean it is removing the most harmful
tiny stuff. An electrostatic filter is almost mandatory for fines, yet
the ones I see marketed don't look all that effective either.

As always, Caveat Emptor.

Original Unit - Installed View.
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood01.jpg

Original Unit - Bottom Detail View.
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood02.jpg

Modified Base - Installed View, along with an assortment of DIY stuff.
(speed controller pod, footswitch, laser straightedge, vacuum chuck)
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood03.jpg

Installed View with 16" Sanding Disk.
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood04.jpg

Installed View with Sanding Disk and sliding platform.
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood05.jpg


Appologies for the rambling, lengthy reply. But perhaps this will fuel
someone's imagination out in Usenet Land and help them avoid the wood
colored mucus which the body expels, and possibly even lung cancer.

FWIW,

Greg G.

Darrell Feltmate said:

Greg
Thanks for the permission and the extra pictures. I obviously like things
people make themselves to answer workshop problems. What kind of sanding
masks are you using that have a hard time fitting your face? I used to use
those paper ones and had a hard time as well. Now I use a decent two
cartridge system and it fits great. My problem with dust is a cleaning
problem not so mauch a lung one, except that any dust that settles on the
surfaces could be settling in my lungs any time I am not wearing a mask. I
too am considering one of those air cleaning systems.

No problemo, Darrell. ;-)
Two years ago, I had never seen a lathe in person and hadn't a clue
how to properly use one. To this day, I've never seen another turn.
But thanks to the help from the people in this group, I am improving.
Although my technical background draws me towards complicated
segmented turnings, I would love to have a local supply for burls and
spalted woods - minus the exorbitant price tags generally associated
with such things at the local wood suppliers. I suppose I should
ramble around some of the pudunk southern towns and find a few
sources. Someday...

Now if I can could come up with a way to "automagically" clear the
shavings from hollowed vessels so that I don't have to stop every 30
seconds and clear them manually. Ah, one can dream...

As an aside, how do you sharpen your steel tool bits on the homemade
Oland tools you make? I cannot seem to sharpen them in normal gouge
fashion on a wheel due to their tendency to rather dramatically dig
into the white grinding wheel when presented. Due to the small tip
radius I'm after, I've been grinding them upside down, towards the
bottom of the wheel, to eliminate the dig problem. By hand. It adds a
nice burr, albeit a temporary one.

I need to build another jig to go with this...
http://www.thevideodoc.com/images/Sh...Station01l.jpg


I have a general hobby site, but it hasn't been updated much lately...
This is the turning page.
http://www.thevideodoc.com/pwoodw2.htm


Ciao,

Greg G.

Greg
You have some nice stuff on the turning page. I use essentially the same set
up for sharpening the Oland tool as you are using for the bowl gouge. If you
shorten the leg on the holding jig a little and sharpen the tip to 45* it
should work well. There is a video about half way down this page. I use this
with 1/8" Olands with no trouble.
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/sharpening06.html

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Darrell Feltmate said:

Greg
Thanks for the permission and the extra pictures. I obviously like things
people make themselves to answer workshop problems. What kind of sanding
masks are you using that have a hard time fitting your face? I used to use
those paper ones and had a hard time as well. Now I use a decent two
cartridge system and it fits great. My problem with dust is a cleaning
problem not so mauch a lung one, except that any dust that settles on the
surfaces could be settling in my lungs any time I am not wearing a mask. I
too am considering one of those air cleaning systems.

No problemo, Darrell. ;-)
Two years ago, I had never seen a lathe in person and hadn't a clue
how to properly use one. To this day, I've never seen another turn.
But thanks to the help from the people in this group, I am improving.
Although my technical background draws me towards complicated
segmented turnings, I would love to have a local supply for burls and
spalted woods - minus the exorbitant price tags generally associated
with such things at the local wood suppliers. I suppose I should
ramble around some of the pudunk southern towns and find a few
sources. Someday...

Now if I can could come up with a way to "automagically" clear the
shavings from hollowed vessels so that I don't have to stop every 30
seconds and clear them manually. Ah, one can dream...

As an aside, how do you sharpen your steel tool bits on the homemade
Oland tools you make? I cannot seem to sharpen them in normal gouge
fashion on a wheel due to their tendency to rather dramatically dig
into the white grinding wheel when presented. Due to the small tip
radius I'm after, I've been grinding them upside down, towards the
bottom of the wheel, to eliminate the dig problem. By hand. It adds a
nice burr, albeit a temporary one.

I need to build another jig to go with this...
http://www.thevideodoc.com/images/Sh...Station01l.jpg


I have a general hobby site, but it hasn't been updated much lately...
This is the turning page.
http://www.thevideodoc.com/pwoodw2.htm


Ciao,

Greg G.

Darrell Feltmate said:

Greg
You have some nice stuff on the turning page. I use essentially the same set
up for sharpening the Oland tool as you are using for the bowl gouge. If you
shorten the leg on the holding jig a little and sharpen the tip to 45* it
should work well. There is a video about half way down this page. I use this
with 1/8" Olands with no trouble.
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/sharpening06.html

Thanks again. I'm a beginner.
I forgot to mention that the bit I am referring to is 3/16".
The larger bits are no problem, but this tiny one wants to dig into
the wheel. It could be that it is a poor quality wheel and contains
voids that the bit catches in. I'll try it again, but the last time it
removed a small divot from the wheel.


Greg G.

Greg
Part of the problem may be the white wheel. I find they ear too quickly.
With a jig the fast wear is not necessary. It is designed for hand
sharpening HSS and carbon steel and to break away quickly so as to generate
little heat and leave a clean surface. I would rather use a longer wearing
stone and dreww it a little more often and a little less deeply snce I do
not need to remove the deep grooves and pits the white wheels seem prone to
getting.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Darrell Feltmate said:

Greg
You have some nice stuff on the turning page. I use essentially the same
set
up for sharpening the Oland tool as you are using for the bowl gouge. If
you
shorten the leg on the holding jig a little and sharpen the tip to 45* it
should work well. There is a video about half way down this page. I use
this
with 1/8" Olands with no trouble.
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/sharpening06.html

Thanks again. I'm a beginner.
I forgot to mention that the bit I am referring to is 3/16".
The larger bits are no problem, but this tiny one wants to dig into
the wheel. It could be that it is a poor quality wheel and contains
voids that the bit catches in. I'll try it again, but the last time it
removed a small divot from the wheel.


Greg G.