First turning of the winter.
Australian Lacewood, Peruvian Walnut, Maple, and Black Mesquite
with Maple and Ebonized veneer details. Lacquer Finish - incomplete.
Ended up "thicker" than intended.
Now using larger graph paper and drawing to scale to better predict
the final shape. Next one should be more what I'm after.

Side:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood01.jpg

Top/Bottom:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood02.jpg

Waaay too many hours. Now to find some fool who wants a $500 pot. ;-)
FWIW,

Greg G.

Nice work Greg. My wife keeps threatening that I need to some more segmented
work. Not my thing but I love to see it done.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...

First turning of the winter.
Australian Lacewood, Peruvian Walnut, Maple, and Black Mesquite
with Maple and Ebonized veneer details. Lacquer Finish - incomplete.
Ended up "thicker" than intended.
Now using larger graph paper and drawing to scale to better predict
the final shape. Next one should be more what I'm after.

Side:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood01.jpg

Top/Bottom:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood02.jpg

Waaay too many hours. Now to find some fool who wants a $500 pot. ;-)
FWIW,

Greg G.

Darrell Feltmate said:

Nice work Greg. My wife keeps threatening that I need to some more segmented
work. Not my thing but I love to see it done.

Thanks, Darrell.
It's easier for me to get milled lumber than to find felled trees
around here - one reason I do a lot of segmented stuff. I've only spun
a few spalted birch, pear, magnolia, and cherry green wood turnings.
And they were mostly, at first anyway, limbs downed in storms. Just
for practice, you know. Many warped or split, or were just plain ugly.
Tension wood isn't so good for turning anything permanent.

I've been tempted to drive out to rural areas and look for freshly
downed trees to cut up before the firewood guys/property owners show
up. I love the unbroken, organic look of natural woods as well as the
methodical, ordered appearance of segmented turnings - possibly more.
Also, my chainsaw is only a 14 incher. So, alas, no birdseye elm for
me. I can't even find spalted sweetgum or hackberry. I wanted to try
some alabaster, but can't find it locally either. No artists or
sculptors around here, apparently.

As for the wife's desires, what is that old bromide?
No one is happy unless mom is happy? ;-)


Greg G.

Greg
If you are handy the country, see if you can locate a firewood dealer and
buy a half cord or so of fresh cut wood. Immediately seal the ends with
Anchorseal and you have the next year or two worth of turning. Most of the
guys will smile funny and then truck the half cord to you in their half ton.
Usually they sell three cord plus at a time. This is a cheap way to get wood
when felled logs are not free.
http://www.aroundthewoods.com/firewood.shtml

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Darrell Feltmate said:

Nice work Greg. My wife keeps threatening that I need to some more
segmented
work. Not my thing but I love to see it done.

Thanks, Darrell.
It's easier for me to get milled lumber than to find felled trees
around here - one reason I do a lot of segmented stuff. I've only spun
a few spalted birch, pear, magnolia, and cherry green wood turnings.
And they were mostly, at first anyway, limbs downed in storms. Just
for practice, you know. Many warped or split, or were just plain ugly.
Tension wood isn't so good for turning anything permanent.

I've been tempted to drive out to rural areas and look for freshly
downed trees to cut up before the firewood guys/property owners show
up. I love the unbroken, organic look of natural woods as well as the
methodical, ordered appearance of segmented turnings - possibly more.
Also, my chainsaw is only a 14 incher. So, alas, no birdseye elm for
me. I can't even find spalted sweetgum or hackberry. I wanted to try
some alabaster, but can't find it locally either. No artists or
sculptors around here, apparently.

As for the wife's desires, what is that old bromide?
No one is happy unless mom is happy? ;-)


Greg G.

Darrell Feltmate said:

If you are handy the country, see if you can locate a firewood dealer and
buy a half cord or so of fresh cut wood. Immediately seal the ends with
Anchorseal and you have the next year or two worth of turning. ....

Thanks, Darrell. I know the routine, but I live amidst the blight of
a large southern city. It's 20-40 miles just to get to outer
suburbia. If I invested more time into procuring stuff, I might do
better, but with gas and time being at a premium...


Greg G.

I hear ya Greg. Try an arborist in the city. Even in the urban and suburban
blight we manifest so well, there are usually trees and some of them need to
come down now and then. While some of the arborists sell wood, most have a
disposal problem and will sell it cheaply or give it away. Sometimes a bowl
or two can be exchanged for a lot of wood. Worth looking into and can't
hurt.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Darrell Feltmate said:

If you are handy the country, see if you can locate a firewood dealer and
buy a half cord or so of fresh cut wood. Immediately seal the ends with
Anchorseal and you have the next year or two worth of turning. ....

Thanks, Darrell. I know the routine, but I live amidst the blight of
a large southern city. It's 20-40 miles just to get to outer
suburbia. If I invested more time into procuring stuff, I might do
better, but with gas and time being at a premium...


Greg G.

very nice work! There someone out there that would be willing to part with
their money for something that looks this nice.
"Greg G." wrote in message
...

First turning of the winter.
Australian Lacewood, Peruvian Walnut, Maple, and Black Mesquite
with Maple and Ebonized veneer details. Lacquer Finish - incomplete.
Ended up "thicker" than intended.
Now using larger graph paper and drawing to scale to better predict
the final shape. Next one should be more what I'm after.

Side:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood01.jpg

Top/Bottom:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood02.jpg

Waaay too many hours. Now to find some fool who wants a $500 pot. ;-)
FWIW,

Greg G.

Steven Raphael said:

very nice work! There someone out there that would be willing to part with
their money for something that looks this nice.

Thanks, Steven. I'm hoping so. I could use an ambient air cleaner to
deal with the toxic black walnut and sapore dust this stuff kicks up.


Greg G.

Hello Greg,
I built one using an old squirrel cage fan and motor from a house
furnace. I built a box around it and stack 2 or 3 furnace filters in
the input side. It sits about 2 foot off the floor of the shop and
works. How do I know? the filters get dirty. Now hanging it from
the ceiling closer to the lathe would be better but space is not
available.


On Dec 6, 3:38 pm, Greg wrote:
Steven Raphael said:

very nice work! There someone out there that would be willing to part with
their money for something that looks this nice.

Thanks, Steven. I'm hoping so. I could use an ambient air cleaner to
deal with the toxic black walnut and sapore dust this stuff kicks up.

Greg G.

Kevin said:

I built one using an old squirrel cage fan and motor from a house
furnace. I built a box around it and stack 2 or 3 furnace filters in
the input side. It sits about 2 foot off the floor of the shop and
works. How do I know? the filters get dirty. Now hanging it from
the ceiling closer to the lathe would be better but space is not
available.

Thanks, Kevin.
I would do what you suggest, but I'm not in the HVAC business, and the
local dump won't let you scavenge. What a waste, eh? A local dealer
has the small Jet for $220, and by the time I drive around and look
for "parts", I could just buy one. With an electrostatic + pocket
filter and a timer/remote. I have used a box fan with an allergen
filter, and it helps, but the super fine dust from 600+ sandpaper
applied to exotics and lacquer remains a problem.

I just built a dust hood for the lathe out of scraps, and this seems
to help considerably. In the warmer months, the dust collector goes
outside, but in the winter I can't afford the heat loss.

Scrap Materials Lathe Hood:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood01.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood02.jpg



Greg G.

Greg
Nice pictures and a good idea. I have something like it but not as nice.
Mind if I use the pictures on the web site, with credit of course. Send me a
private e-mail if you like. It is an easy link off the site.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
http://aroundthewoods.com
http://roundopinions.blogspot.com
"Greg G." wrote in message
...
Kevin said:

I built one using an old squirrel cage fan and motor from a house
furnace. I built a box around it and stack 2 or 3 furnace filters in
the input side. It sits about 2 foot off the floor of the shop and
works. How do I know? the filters get dirty. Now hanging it from
the ceiling closer to the lathe would be better but space is not
available.

Thanks, Kevin.
I would do what you suggest, but I'm not in the HVAC business, and the
local dump won't let you scavenge. What a waste, eh? A local dealer
has the small Jet for $220, and by the time I drive around and look
for "parts", I could just buy one. With an electrostatic + pocket
filter and a timer/remote. I have used a box fan with an allergen
filter, and it helps, but the super fine dust from 600+ sandpaper
applied to exotics and lacquer remains a problem.

I just built a dust hood for the lathe out of scraps, and this seems
to help considerably. In the warmer months, the dust collector goes
outside, but in the winter I can't afford the heat loss.

Scrap Materials Lathe Hood:
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood01.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...atheHood02.jpg



Greg G.

That's one handsome bowl, Greg. It would be even without segmenting. I
don't turn anything that requires graphing, which is one reason why your
_bowl bottoms look better than my _bowl tops.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter


http://community.webtv.net/almcc/MacsMusings

Arch said:

That's one handsome bowl, Greg. It would be even without segmenting. I
don't turn anything that requires graphing, which is one reason why your
_bowl bottoms look better than my _bowl tops.


Thanks, Arch. But remember that two years ago, I had never seen a
lathe, and it was all the good advise from the sages here in r.c.w
that led me down this slippery slope of expensive tool acquisitions.

Me thinks you might exaggerate a wee bit, however, but thanks for the
vote of confidence. Maybe in a dozen or so more years. Now if I could
find green wood that isn't pine, or being guarded and ultimately
trucked off to Georgia Pacific. :-\


Greg G.

On Dec 6, 5:17 am, Greg wrote:
First turning of the winter.
Australian Lacewood, Peruvian Walnut, Maple, and Black Mesquite
with Maple and Ebonized veneer details. Lacquer Finish - incomplete.
Ended up "thicker" than intended.
Now using larger graph paper and drawing to scale to better predict
the final shape. Next one should be more what I'm after.

Side:http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood01.jpg

Top/Bottom:http://webpages.charter.net/videodoc...lacewood02.jpg

Waaay too many hours. Now to find some fool who wants a $500 pot. ;-)
FWIW,

Greg G.

Hi Greg, If your not happy with the thickness why not remount it and
reduce it a bit. If you can't get the calipers inside because of the
smaller opening why not cut the rim off, re-turn it and put it back.
Usually too thick isn't a problem. Better too thick than too thin.
Also unless you really enjoy the drawing process a program like
woodturner pro will save a lot of time and headaches. While I like the
drawing process it gets old after a while. I'd much rather be building
and turning than drawing. Bob
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com

turnerbob said:

Hi Greg, If your not happy with the thickness why not remount it and
reduce it a bit. If you can't get the calipers inside because of the
smaller opening why not cut the rim off, re-turn it and put it back.
Usually too thick isn't a problem. Better too thick than too thin.

By thickness, I was referring to the ultimate shape more than wall
thickness. There is no "extra" material there to work with.
It just seems rather blobby, and I was after a slimmer, more modern
look. Unfortunately, the close dimensions I cut this stuff to doesn't
leave much room for variation in shape once planned and cut.

Also unless you really enjoy the drawing process a program like
woodturner pro will save a lot of time and headaches. While I like the
drawing process it gets old after a while. I'd much rather be building
and turning than drawing.

I understand. I have a computer program, but unfortunately it doesn't
really show the whole picture. Subtle aspect ratio variations occur
between the image on the screen and the resulting bowl. So I draw half
the shape (and mirror) and use those measurements to plan the cut
list. Due to the high cost of some of the woods, I leave only an
approximate 1/16" margin for error. I haven't tried Woodturner Pro in
a few years, but I preferred Segmented Project Planner at the time. I
ended up writing my own program in C++ so that coding mods could be
made easily in-house.


Greg G.