As we did last Christmas, we spoke of the fact that us better
carpenters/woodworkers/installers cope our inside joints as needed to
cover out of square joints in trim of all sorts. And we agree that
never is it more important than doing this on crown molding.

But I just finished up the kitchen I told you about, and put the
typical 2 1/2" crown around the cabinets. I don't think I have ever
used a harder wood. It was marked as maple on the unfinished side,
but should have been marked aircraft grade aluminum. I got the joints
where I wanted them, but the inside corners took me right at 30
minutes to cope and fit! Each! An hour for two joints!

Usually I knock these out in about 15 minutes or so (each)to fit to my
spec, including the cope and final fit with my large stockman. My
usual gear:

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d68a788.jpg

To top it off, check the joint out over this cabinet door. You can
see the difference in the profile. (Don't look at the shadows above
the trim - I put the joint on a low joist so I wouldn't have that much
problem fitting it.) The different dimension of the profile made it
even more fun than it should have been.

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9cc8cede.jpg

If this were red oak, birch, regular maple, that nasty pre-primed
finger jointed catalpa or any other softer woods it wouldn't have been
a problem. But next time I might join your boys and check out an
inside corner cut on the miter saw before I get going on the trims,
depending on what my clients are paying for when we discuss terms.

The last time I used trim this hard was when I built a set of
barrister's book cases and put a little removable dimensional piece
that sat on the very top unit like a hat. I trimmed out the hat piece
with white oak crown moulding to match the white oak cabinets and got
the bright idea it should be kiln dried to keep the joints from moving
when secured. After making the profiling cut on the miter saw, I
wound up cutting most of the material away with a belt sander as I ran
out of patience and time removing that white oak with a coping saw.

Have you run into any of this trim? Is THIS why your guys don't want
to cope the inside corners? With another couple of kitchens on the
horizon I know I will have to cut this stuff myself to make sure I
like the finished product and will have to make sure I price
accordingly.

I am hearing the dark side of mitered inside corners calling to me....

Robert

P.S.: Loved the chairs. With your design and execution and Linda's
finish strokes, they are gorgeous.

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 01:17:37 -0800 (PST), "
where I wanted them, but the inside corners took me right at 30
minutes to cope and fit! Each! An hour for two joints!

Usually I knock these out in about 15 minutes or so (each)to fit to my
spec, including the cope and final fit with my large stockman. My
usual gear:

Maybe it was just one of those projects where whatever you do to it,
it just doesn't fit right. Something bothering me, a little hung over
from the night before, or that meal I ate didn't sit right. Whatever
the reason, most of us have worked on something that was a bear to
build.

On 1/29/2013 3:17 AM, wrote:
As we did last Christmas, we spoke of the fact that us better
carpenters/woodworkers/installers cope our inside joints as needed to
cover out of square joints in trim of all sorts. And we agree that
never is it more important than doing this on crown molding.

As you well know, easier said than done ... do it yourself (not likely
at my age in a kitchen) or leave the site ... then it's inside miters,
hoping you won't notice.

But I just finished up the kitchen I told you about, and put the
typical 2 1/2" crown around the cabinets. I don't think I have ever
used a harder wood. It was marked as maple on the unfinished side,
but should have been marked aircraft grade aluminum. I got the joints
where I wanted them, but the inside corners took me right at 30
minutes to cope and fit! Each! An hour for two joints!

Wabbut, you 2 cheep ... espring for new coping bwade! g,d&r

Usually I knock these out in about 15 minutes or so (each)to fit to my
spec, including the cope and final fit with my large stockman. My
usual gear:

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d68a788.jpg

Damn, Bubba ... you available for coping seminars!?

That looks spot on, however long it takes ... them's es spensive
looking, bragging copes!

To top it off, check the joint out over this cabinet door. You can
see the difference in the profile. (Don't look at the shadows above
the trim - I put the joint on a low joist so I wouldn't have that much
problem fitting it.) The different dimension of the profile made it
even more fun than it should have been.

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9cc8cede.jpg

If this were red oak, birch, regular maple, that nasty pre-primed
finger jointed catalpa or any other softer woods it wouldn't have been
a problem. But next time I might join your boys and check out an
inside corner cut on the miter saw before I get going on the trims,
depending on what my clients are paying for when we discuss terms.

The last time I used trim this hard was when I built a set of
barrister's book cases and put a little removable dimensional piece
that sat on the very top unit like a hat. I trimmed out the hat piece
with white oak crown moulding to match the white oak cabinets and got
the bright idea it should be kiln dried to keep the joints from moving
when secured. After making the profiling cut on the miter saw, I
wound up cutting most of the material away with a belt sander as I ran
out of patience and time removing that white oak with a coping saw.

Have you run into any of this trim? Is THIS why your guys don't want
to cope the inside corners? With another couple of kitchens on the
horizon I know I will have to cut this stuff myself to make sure I
like the finished product and will have to make sure I price
accordingly.

Do seem milling ain't what it used to be, crown in particular.

Here lately, not only do I occasionally get slight differences in width
of crown from one end to the other, but slight differences in thickness,
both of which will make you pull you hair out.

It's why I'm particular where I buy small orders (8 to 30lf) of crown
for a kitchen/furniture project and insist on picking it out myself ...
good work if you can get it, but often these guys don't have the farking
spec'ed profile.

Locally, suppliers like Boise Cascade (large selection of hard to find
profiles "on the shelf"), you pick out the profile/LF, pay for it, and
their employee's deliver it to you in the parking lot, by farking fork
lift ... guaranteed Caveat Emptor.

I am hearing the dark side of mitered inside corners calling to me....

You jus too es spensive, Wabbut!

Robert

P.S.: Loved the chairs. With your design and execution and Linda's
finish strokes, they are gorgeous.

Thanks ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/29/2013 3:17 AM, wrote:
As we did last Christmas, we spoke of the fact that us better
carpenters/woodworkers/installers cope our inside joints as needed to
cover out of square joints in trim of all sorts. And we agree that
never is it more important than doing this on crown molding.

But I just finished up the kitchen I told you about, and put the
typical 2 1/2" crown around the cabinets. I don't think I have ever
used a harder wood. It was marked as maple on the unfinished side,
but should have been marked aircraft grade aluminum. I got the joints
where I wanted them, but the inside corners took me right at 30
minutes to cope and fit! Each! An hour for two joints!

Usually I knock these out in about 15 minutes or so (each)to fit to my
spec, including the cope and final fit with my large stockman. My
usual gear:

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d68a788.jpg

To top it off, check the joint out over this cabinet door. You can
see the difference in the profile. (Don't look at the shadows above
the trim - I put the joint on a low joist so I wouldn't have that much
problem fitting it.) The different dimension of the profile made it
even more fun than it should have been.

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9cc8cede.jpg

If this were red oak, birch, regular maple, that nasty pre-primed
finger jointed catalpa or any other softer woods it wouldn't have been
a problem. But next time I might join your boys and check out an
inside corner cut on the miter saw before I get going on the trims,
depending on what my clients are paying for when we discuss terms.

The last time I used trim this hard was when I built a set of
barrister's book cases and put a little removable dimensional piece
that sat on the very top unit like a hat. I trimmed out the hat piece
with white oak crown moulding to match the white oak cabinets and got
the bright idea it should be kiln dried to keep the joints from moving
when secured. After making the profiling cut on the miter saw, I
wound up cutting most of the material away with a belt sander as I ran
out of patience and time removing that white oak with a coping saw.

Have you run into any of this trim? Is THIS why your guys don't want
to cope the inside corners? With another couple of kitchens on the
horizon I know I will have to cut this stuff myself to make sure I
like the finished product and will have to make sure I price
accordingly.

I am hearing the dark side of mitered inside corners calling to me....

Robert

P.S.: Loved the chairs. With your design and execution and Linda's
finish strokes, they are gorgeous.


Here duh saluit'shen

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...ter-saw-561287

On 1/29/13 1:24 PM, Leon wrote:

Here duh saluit'shen

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...ter-saw-561287


I looked through that whole page and didn't see the coping function. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Jan 29, 11:44*am, Swingman wrote:

As you well know, easier said than done ... do it yourself (not likely
at my age in a kitchen) or leave the site ... then it's inside miters,
hoping you won't notice.

Another reason to do it myself. But... seriously... I didn't think it
would take that long to do.

Wabbut, you 2 cheep ... espring for new coping bwade! g,d&r

But Karl, this blade still had teeth! I hadn't even sharpened it with
my Dremel yet, so I thought it was OK. Smart guy. ;^)


Damn, Bubba ... you available for coping seminars!? *

That looks spot on, however long it takes ... them's es spensive
looking, bragging copes!

Well, they would be, except that had one of my guys been doing that
and he got TWO inside miters done in an hour I would have burned him
alive. As it is, I am glad I spent the time to get the joints right,
but not happy I had to spend the time.

Do seem milling ain't what it used to be, crown in particular.

Here lately, not only do I occasionally get slight differences in width
of crown from one end to the other, but slight differences in thickness,
both of which will make you pull you hair out.

I worry more about the profile matching. As far as thickness goes, I
never, ever cut scarf joints on 45 degrees. I always cut on 30 (even
on roof fascia!), no one knows the difference as they can see it is
mitered, and you can push one side of the joint in or out and nail it
to match the profile if it is a thickness issue. They must have
rubber wheels or something like that on their moulding machines to
press the profiles onto the cutters regardless of thickness to keep
the profile the same with a different thickness of material. But the
profile problems.... I got nothing. Particularly aggravating
when you are doing inside copes.

I am hearing the dark side of mitered inside corners calling to me....

You jus too es spensive, Wabbut! *

OK Joe, but one time good price no more! Nest time, you pay more!

Robert

On Jan 29, 1:24*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Here duh saluit'shen

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...ks-120-sliding...

CRAP!!! Are you kidding? $1350 + tax would make that saw well over
$1400 bucks!! And still doesn't solve the inside miter problems.

I know that was tongue in cheek, but at that price I would want to be
able to leave the saw on the job by itself, go check on another job,
and come back to a finished trim job that the saw did by itself.

I am still using my old DeWalt 10" single bevel that I have had for 15
or so years. When I got it, I took the whole saw carriage apart and
tuned it up with a machinist's square. I had to actually whack the
base with a mallet to bend it to tolerance, but it has held it for all
these years. I use a heavy, thick 60 tooth blade (no skinny minnies
for me - they flex in knots or burls) and that saw cuts like a dream.

I think I paid $199 for that saw and it came with a worthless blade
that I put into a jobsite disposable table saw used for utility work
and a "miter saw" blade coupon that you used when you mailed in your
registration to get a free saw blade. It was a POS, too. The PCs,
Makitas, and other brands of single bevels were about $50 less then,
but this one has been well worth it.

At $1400+, I honestly would be afraid to take the Festool out to the
job.

Robert

On 1/29/2013 2:58 PM, wrote:
On Jan 29, 1:24 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Here duh saluit'shen

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...ks-120-sliding...

CRAP!!! Are you kidding? $1350 + tax would make that saw well over
$1400 bucks!! And still doesn't solve the inside miter problems.

I know that was tongue in cheek, but at that price I would want to be
able to leave the saw on the job by itself, go check on another job,
and come back to a finished trim job that the saw did by itself.

I am still using my old DeWalt 10" single bevel that I have had for 15
or so years. When I got it, I took the whole saw carriage apart and
tuned it up with a machinist's square. I had to actually whack the
base with a mallet to bend it to tolerance, but it has held it for all
these years. I use a heavy, thick 60 tooth blade (no skinny minnies
for me - they flex in knots or burls) and that saw cuts like a dream.

I think I paid $199 for that saw and it came with a worthless blade
that I put into a jobsite disposable table saw used for utility work
and a "miter saw" blade coupon that you used when you mailed in your
registration to get a free saw blade. It was a POS, too. The PCs,
Makitas, and other brands of single bevels were about $50 less then,
but this one has been well worth it.

At $1400+, I honestly would be afraid to take the Festool out to the
job.

Robert



Actually If I were to ever buy another I would probably go with the
Bosch with the articulating arm, no more rails. And about half the
price of the Festool.

On 1/29/2013 6:32 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/29/2013 2:58 PM, wrote:
On Jan 29, 1:24 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Here duh saluit'shen

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...ks-120-sliding...

CRAP!!! Are you kidding? $1350 + tax would make that saw well over
$1400 bucks!! And still doesn't solve the inside miter problems.

I know that was tongue in cheek, but at that price I would want to be
able to leave the saw on the job by itself, go check on another job,
and come back to a finished trim job that the saw did by itself.

I am still using my old DeWalt 10" single bevel that I have had for 15
or so years. When I got it, I took the whole saw carriage apart and
tuned it up with a machinist's square. I had to actually whack the
base with a mallet to bend it to tolerance, but it has held it for all
these years. I use a heavy, thick 60 tooth blade (no skinny minnies
for me - they flex in knots or burls) and that saw cuts like a dream.

I think I paid $199 for that saw and it came with a worthless blade
that I put into a jobsite disposable table saw used for utility work
and a "miter saw" blade coupon that you used when you mailed in your
registration to get a free saw blade. It was a POS, too. The PCs,
Makitas, and other brands of single bevels were about $50 less then,
but this one has been well worth it.

At $1400+, I honestly would be afraid to take the Festool out to the
job.

Robert



Actually If I were to ever buy another I would probably go with the
Bosch with the articulating arm, no more rails. And about half the
price of the Festool.
I looked at the Bosch, since I destroyed my Makita,
A lot of people complain about the saw not tracking straight, so for the
price it should. I keep reading about the saw twisting slightly as it
is pulled out. Maybe it's an adjustment, but there are too many
complaints about it. I wanted it for the zero clearance behind it.

The kapex is looking good.

--
Jeff

woodchucker wrote:
On 1/29/2013 6:32 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/29/2013 2:58 PM, wrote:
On Jan 29, 1:24 pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Here duh saluit'shen

http://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool...ks-120-sliding...

CRAP!!! Are you kidding? $1350 + tax would make that saw well over
$1400 bucks!! And still doesn't solve the inside miter problems.

I know that was tongue in cheek, but at that price I would want to be
able to leave the saw on the job by itself, go check on another job,
and come back to a finished trim job that the saw did by itself.

I am still using my old DeWalt 10" single bevel that I have had for 15
or so years. When I got it, I took the whole saw carriage apart and
tuned it up with a machinist's square. I had to actually whack the
base with a mallet to bend it to tolerance, but it has held it for all
these years. I use a heavy, thick 60 tooth blade (no skinny minnies
for me - they flex in knots or burls) and that saw cuts like a dream.

I think I paid $199 for that saw and it came with a worthless blade
that I put into a jobsite disposable table saw used for utility work
and a "miter saw" blade coupon that you used when you mailed in your
registration to get a free saw blade. It was a POS, too. The PCs,
Makitas, and other brands of single bevels were about $50 less then,
but this one has been well worth it.

At $1400+, I honestly would be afraid to take the Festool out to the
job.

Robert



Actually If I were to ever buy another I would probably go with the
Bosch with the articulating arm, no more rails. And about half the
price of the Festool.
I looked at the Bosch, since I destroyed my Makita,
A lot of people complain about the saw not tracking straight, so for the
price it should. I keep reading about the saw twisting slightly as it is
pulled out. Maybe it's an adjustment, but there are too many complaints
about it. I wanted it for the zero clearance behind it.

The kapex is looking good.


Good to know. I am not on the market but this particular saw is
intriguing..

On Tue, 29 Jan 2013 01:17:37 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

As we did last Christmas, we spoke of the fact that us better
carpenters/woodworkers/installers cope our inside joints as needed to
cover out of square joints in trim of all sorts. And we agree that
never is it more important than doing this on crown molding.

But I just finished up the kitchen I told you about, and put the
typical 2 1/2" crown around the cabinets. I don't think I have ever
used a harder wood. It was marked as maple on the unfinished side,
but should have been marked aircraft grade aluminum. I got the joints
where I wanted them, but the inside corners took me right at 30
minutes to cope and fit! Each! An hour for two joints!

Usually I knock these out in about 15 minutes or so (each)to fit to my
spec, including the cope and final fit with my large stockman. My
usual gear:

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d68a788.jpg

To top it off, check the joint out over this cabinet door. You can
see the difference in the profile. (Don't look at the shadows above
the trim - I put the joint on a low joist so I wouldn't have that much
problem fitting it.) The different dimension of the profile made it
even more fun than it should have been.

http://i1322.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9cc8cede.jpg

If this were red oak, birch, regular maple, that nasty pre-primed
finger jointed catalpa or any other softer woods it wouldn't have been
a problem. But next time I might join your boys and check out an
inside corner cut on the miter saw before I get going on the trims,
depending on what my clients are paying for when we discuss terms.

The last time I used trim this hard was when I built a set of
barrister's book cases and put a little removable dimensional piece
that sat on the very top unit like a hat. I trimmed out the hat piece
with white oak crown moulding to match the white oak cabinets and got
the bright idea it should be kiln dried to keep the joints from moving
when secured. After making the profiling cut on the miter saw, I
wound up cutting most of the material away with a belt sander as I ran
out of patience and time removing that white oak with a coping saw.

Have you run into any of this trim? Is THIS why your guys don't want
to cope the inside corners? With another couple of kitchens on the
horizon I know I will have to cut this stuff myself to make sure I
like the finished product and will have to make sure I price
accordingly.

I am hearing the dark side of mitered inside corners calling to me....

Robert

P.S.: Loved the chairs. With your design and execution and Linda's
finish strokes, they are gorgeous.

Construction Definitions

Contractor: A gambler who never gets to shuffle, cut or deal.

Bid: A wild guess carried to two decimal places.

Low Bidder: A contractor who is wondering what he left out.

Engineer's Estimate: The cost of construction in heaven.

WAG Factor: Wild Ass Guess

SWAG Factor: Scientific Wild Ass Guess. A much more precise
procedure.

Project Manager: The conductor of an orchestra in which every
musician is in a different union.

Critical Path Method: A management technique for losing your shirt
under perfect control.

OSHA: A protective coating made by half baking a mixture of fine
print, split hairs, ret tape, and baloney. Usually applied at random
with a shotgun.

Delayed Payment: A tourniquet applied at the pocket.

Completion Date: The point at which liquidated damages begin.

Strike: An effort to increase egg production by strangling the
chicken.

Liquidated Damages: A penalty for failing to achieve the impossible.

Auditor: People who go in after the war is lost and bayonet the
wounded.

Lawyer: People who go in after the auditors and strip the bodies.

Mike M

On 1/29/2013 9:38 PM, woodchucker wrote:

I looked at the Bosch, since I destroyed my Makita,

A lot of people complain about the saw not tracking straight, so for the
price it should. I keep reading about the saw twisting slightly as it
is pulled out. Maybe it's an adjustment, but there are too many
complaints about it. I wanted it for the zero clearance behind it.

The kapex is looking good.

I may be looking at it myself. My Makita barely survived the last couple
of siding jobs, and is not operating as smoothly after being
forced/slammed through a few thousand siding cuts ... insisted only my
foreman operate it, but he turns out as heavy handed as the other guys
when it comes to tools, and always complaining about having to replace
tools because of rough handling ... hell, it's him.

When I say "never again", "never" obviously has its limits when it comes
to getting the job done, but were I to spring for a Kapex, I can
guarantee it will never see a job site.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/29/2013 12:58 PM, wrote:

I am still using my old DeWalt 10" single bevel that I have had for 15
or so years.


I still like the old school guys and your work still looks pretty damn
good.

It's really too bad that the young crowd doesn't want to learn how to
do this stuff.

On Jan 30, 9:12*am, Swingman wrote:

I may be looking at it myself. My Makita barely survived the last couple
of siding jobs, and is not operating as smoothly after being
forced/slammed through a few thousand siding cuts ... insisted only my
foreman operate it, but he turns out as heavy handed as the other guys
when it comes to tools, and always complaining about having to replace
tools because of rough handling ... hell, it's him.

Nothing like seeing someone that doesn't buy their own tools and uses
yours in a rough manner because they "want to get the job done" and
they declare "if it's a working tool, it should be able to take it"
and all that other crap. I have a couple of tools, my favorite Makita
circular saw that I use to cut down plywood sheeting and the
aforementioned miter saw that are off limits to my ninja warriors.
They are not allowed to use them. Period.

I have to ask, though... why were you using a miter saw on a siding
(assuming Hardie as we spoke of at Christmas) job? Or was it wood
horizontal lap or masonite?

When I say "never again", "never" obviously has its limits when it comes
to getting the job done, but were I to spring for a Kapex, I can
guarantee it will never see a job site.

I have knothead grade tools that my guys can use until they kill
them. But if I see them using them in a rough way, they buy their own
or they are fired. Between stolen and abused tools, I have put
hardware into half of my city's hands.

Robert

"Swingman" wrote

When I say "never again", "never" obviously has its limits when it comes
to getting the job done, but were I to spring for a Kapex, I can guarantee
it will never see a job site.

Spoken like a true tool aristocrat. "I ain't gonna let no ham fisted
neanderthal TOUCH my precious Festool!"

On 1/30/2013 9:48 AM, wrote:

I have to ask, though... why were you using a miter saw on a siding
(assuming Hardie as we spoke of at Christmas) job? Or was it wood
horizontal lap or masonite?

Momma didn't raise no fools, Bubba ... and, I try not to learn the hard
way.

I absolutely insist that a miter saw, and a Bosch cementboard blade, be
used when cutting Hardie _ColorPlus_ siding.

It is waaaaay too easy to scuff this es spensive stuff, and not always
easy to match the color with touch-up paint (actually, impossible with
Hardie's own touch-up paint, and a much better chance with letting
Sherwin Williams match it, but still not a shoe in depending upon color.)

Let's put it this way ... I could buy a couple of Festool Kapex's + with
what it would cost me to custom repaint the entire exterior of a house
to placate a siding customer as picky as I am.

With the primed Hardie, a circular saw is just fine (although I insist
it be cut with a square as a guide, or a jig)

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Jan 30, 1:46*pm, Swingman wrote:

Momma didn't raise no fools, Bubba ... and, I try not to learn the hard
way.

Geez Karl... I learn everything the hard way. Not on purpose, that
just seems to be my method.

It is waaaaay too easy to scuff this es spensive stuff, and not always
easy to match the color with touch-up paint (actually, impossible with
Hardie's own touch-up paint, and a much better chance with letting
Sherwin Williams match it, but still not a shoe in depending upon color.)

Hmmm.....

Got away from cutting anything but trim with a saw when I was doing a
couple of houses and the neighbors complained about dust. I actually
had to pay a professional gardener to clean up a lady's garden as I
had coated the whole thing in thick dust. My bad.

Bought a shear years ago, (yes, you can use a speed square as a guide)
and have never looked back.

Plus, reading about the silica the saw blades throw into the air that
will no doubt get around a dust mask is scary. I can cause a direct
relative of mesothelioma to occur.

When installing the pre painted stuff, I put the siding face up until
I use it, then put it face down a bath towel padding on the saw horse
and the cutting action of the tool doesn't scuff up the finished face.

I only use a saw for trims or for complicated or pocket cuts and
insist on N95 or better dust masks.

Just sayin'....

Robert

On 1/30/2013 4:21 PM, wrote:

Bought a shear years ago, (yes, you can use a speed square as a guide)
and have never looked back.

Have tried both PC and PAC shears, but never had much luck maintaining
the crisp butt cut a miter saw will deliver, as well as the accuracy,
particularly bad cutting from the underside on the ColorPlus ... plus we
can line up more than one cut at a time with the miter saw.

Jobs just seem to go quicker with a saw blade. Maybe if Festool got in
the shear game, Leon could give them a try and hook me, again, on
something else.

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On Jan 30, 6:00*pm, Swingman wrote:
Maybe if Festool got in
the shear game, Leon could give them a try and hook me, again, on
something else.

I would be surprised if you didn't hear my guffaw from there.

Nice shot!

Robert

On 1/30/2013 6:00 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/30/2013 4:21 PM, wrote:

Bought a shear years ago, (yes, you can use a speed square as a guide)
and have never looked back.

Have tried both PC and PAC shears, but never had much luck maintaining
the crisp butt cut a miter saw will deliver, as well as the accuracy,
particularly bad cutting from the underside on the ColorPlus ... plus we
can line up more than one cut at a time with the miter saw.

Jobs just seem to go quicker with a saw blade. Maybe if Festool got in
the shear game, Leon could give them a try and hook me, again, on
something else.



McFeeley has'em too.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/icatalog/master/s/108#VIEW

On 1/31/2013 7:48 AM, Leon wrote:


McFeeley has'em too.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/icatalog/master/s/108#VIEW

CH Hanson, also ...

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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 1/31/2013 9:30 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/31/2013 7:48 AM, Leon wrote:


McFeeley has'em too.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/icatalog/master/s/108#VIEW

CH Hanson, also ...


Looks like it. Although more expensive but with $1 shipping maybe not
in the grand scheme of things.