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#41
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Flooring question - how thin
dpb wrote:
On 5/30/2012 4:43 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: dpb wrote: As CW notes I've also spent a lot of time in refurbishing pre- and postbellum houses in Lynchburg, VA, that were built from the early 1800s to mid- to late 1880s. Virtually every one of them had wide pine flooring that was virtually the same as any conventional flooring today excepting for the width. They weren't tongue and grove though - were they? Around these parts, most of the old stuff was just butted along the edges and the ends. They were laid to be close-joined and flat and were finished Help me out here... close-joined? I think I can figure out what you mean but I'd prefer to really understand that term. .... They were laid w/ no gap and generally hand-planed in the oldest (SYP almost always; some northern white pine but not often). That's what I figured you meant. That's how my floors are laid, but there are gaps now... -- -Mike- |
#42
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Flooring question - how thin
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#43
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Flooring question - how thin
CW wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... CW wrote: So, the house that the floor is to be installed in was built in the 1700s ? Nope. It's about 200 years old and has been almost totally remodeled/rebuilt. But - the original "rebuilders" did a good job of trying to maintain the character of the original house. It sits on exactly the same footprint, and that kind of thing. It is probably noteworthy that while the experiences of folks in VA represent very valid experiences, up here was a lot different 200 years ago. I haven't been fallowing this thread from the beginning so I don't know where "up here" is. Sorry - Central NY - around Syracuse. The eastern part of the state is a lot older than the central and western parts, but there's some pretty old stuff around here. I grew up outside of Albany and there is some very old architecture around the Hudson Valley. Lots of pre-Revolutionary War stuff. Really neat architecture there. -- -Mike- |
#44
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Flooring question - how thin
On 5/30/2012 6:26 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
.... So, you're not the first to raise that point. As I said in a different post, my floors are put down with adhesive and cut nails, and I've been able to lift them with a bar, with not much effort. Did I just get lucky, or is adhesive usually more of a trouble than what I experienced? Given some of the stuff I ran into in the aforementioned refurb's (these were all essentially reclamation projects after quite a long time of having been rentals) where all kinds of shortcuts were taken including liberal use of construction adhesive I'd say you were very lucky, indeed, to be able to remove things w/o destroying everything else in sight (and more). -- |
#45
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Flooring question - how thin
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... CW wrote: They were definitely planed. Smooth right up to the comers. I saw a lot of corners as I was rodent control (our lazy ass cat didn't help). High class barn! Around here - definitely more low class... ================================================== =========================================== I wouldn't call that low class. I would call it smart. If I were building a barn, rough sawn would be my choice. |
#46
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Flooring question - how thin
On 5/30/2012 6:28 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
.... That's what I figured you meant. That's how my floors are laid, but there are gaps now... Some of them although terribly scratched, dented, and otherwise abused still were so tight it would have been difficult to slip much more than a playing card between the largest gaps. (As you may tell, that part of the time in Lynchburg I recall w/ great fondness... ) Nothing like it in Oak Ridge, TN, the town that wasn't until the Manhattan Project era altho it did take a while to get used to the fact that there is something other than faux=colonial for residential construction... -- |
#47
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Flooring question - how thin
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... CW wrote: "Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... CW wrote: So, the house that the floor is to be installed in was built in the 1700s ? Nope. It's about 200 years old and has been almost totally remodeled/rebuilt. But - the original "rebuilders" did a good job of trying to maintain the character of the original house. It sits on exactly the same footprint, and that kind of thing. It is probably noteworthy that while the experiences of folks in VA represent very valid experiences, up here was a lot different 200 years ago. I haven't been fallowing this thread from the beginning so I don't know where "up here" is. Sorry - Central NY - around Syracuse. The eastern part of the state is a lot older than the central and western parts, but there's some pretty old stuff around here. I grew up outside of Albany and there is some very old architecture around the Hudson Valley. Lots of pre-Revolutionary War stuff. Really neat architecture there. ================================================== ================= I was in Massachusetts. -- -Mike- |
#48
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Flooring question - how thin
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... CW wrote: "Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... Sorry - Central NY - around Syracuse. The eastern part of the state is a lot older than the central and western parts, but there's some pretty old stuff around here. I grew up outside of Albany and there is some very old architecture around the Hudson Valley. Lots of pre-Revolutionary War stuff. Really neat architecture there. Yup... just took a walk amongst stone houses dating from the 17th and 18th century and frame houses from the Federalist Period up to recent years.... one intersection has stone houses on each of the four corners. The British burned the place during the first war so there are no pre-war wooden structures around nor the fort. There is still a contingent of the Queen's 16th Light Dragoons (Red Coats) camped not far from here... the buggers come back and torch the place every few years for fun. We had the Commander, Don Beale, and one of his Privates attend our woodworking club banquet a couple years ago to give an award to the Woodworker of the Year. http://www.lobsterback.org/ Around here stone houses were common in the early days of the Colonies and country and many of them survive to this day. When I worked in Williamsburg, VA I noted that frame and brick structures were common in the same period. To Mike's point, local materials and affluence dictated what was built and how.... Now, via factories and 18 wheelers you can get what you want... John |
#49
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Flooring question - how thin
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#50
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Flooring question - how thin
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... CW wrote: I was in Massachusetts. Cool - so you understand old architecture. Just came across what is described as distressed hemlock barn board... I think the texture is along the lines of what you described though the size is clearly not. http://catskills.craigslist.org/mat/3004997194.html |
#51
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Flooring question - how thin
John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... CW wrote: I was in Massachusetts. Cool - so you understand old architecture. Just came across what is described as distressed hemlock barn board... I think the texture is along the lines of what you described though the size is clearly not. http://catskills.craigslist.org/mat/3004997194.html That may be what he's after. I've sent the link off to him. I'm anxious to see if that's what he has in his mind. -- -Mike- |
#52
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Flooring question - how thin
On Wed, 30 May 2012 17:28:55 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote: What my son is thinking about is what I might describe as half planed - or what I believe they call skip planed. Run through the planer or through a double drum sander, but not to the point of being nicely smoothed. Sounds horrid to live with. He may think it looks nice, but keeping them clean will be a bitch unless sealed well to take out the recesses. It is nor really a period thing either. We have plenty of 200+ houses around here with original floors and they are pretty smooth. You may find rough flooring in some of the peasant cabins and such, but the better larger houses are much more refined. My son's house is up the street from Jonathan Trumbull's war office from the Revolution. Some of the original flooring is equal to that done today. |
#53
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Flooring question - how thin
On Wed, 30 May 2012 21:55:22 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
That may be what he's after. I've sent the link off to him. I'm anxious to see if that's what he has in his mind. I missed the beginning of this thread, but if someone is looking to intentionally distress wood, then I have a home made solution for him. http://festoolownersgroup.com/festoo...he-850-planer/ |
#54
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Flooring question - how thin
Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Wed, 30 May 2012 17:28:55 -0400, "Mike Marlow" wrote: What my son is thinking about is what I might describe as half planed - or what I believe they call skip planed. Run through the planer or through a double drum sander, but not to the point of being nicely smoothed. Sounds horrid to live with. He may think it looks nice, but keeping them clean will be a bitch unless sealed well to take out the recesses. It is nor really a period thing either. We have plenty of 200+ houses around here with original floors and they are pretty smooth. He is planning to seal it well with poly. A lot of poly. I thought I had said that earlier, but maybe I didn't... You may find rough flooring in some of the peasant cabins and such, but the better larger houses are much more refined. My son's house is up the street from Jonathan Trumbull's war office from the Revolution. Some of the original flooring is equal to that done today. Not contesting that there was some nice finish work back then, but there was also a lot (and perhaps a lot more) lesser finish work back then. My son's idea may not suit many people, but it is (if nothing else) refelctive of what did exist 200 years ago. -- -Mike- |
#55
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Flooring question - how thin
Dave wrote:
On Wed, 30 May 2012 21:55:22 -0400, "Mike Marlow" That may be what he's after. I've sent the link off to him. I'm anxious to see if that's what he has in his mind. I missed the beginning of this thread, but if someone is looking to intentionally distress wood, then I have a home made solution for him. http://festoolownersgroup.com/festoo...he-850-planer/ Nope - just the opposite Dave. He's looking for a certain look and feel by going with a more rough cut (though not just a simple rough cut) board. The original post was intended to talk about how thin one could/should really go with a wood floor plank. -- -Mike- |
#56
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Flooring question - how thin
On Tue, 29 May 2012 19:57:28 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
wrote: (snipped) They went to a local mill and got prices, which really are not bad. My son came up with the idea of asking the mill to simply run the lumber through the band saw again, taking it from 1x8 to 1/2x8. His thought is that he can end up with more lumber for less money, and enough savings to buy a planer to touch them up with - or a double belt sander. The lumber supplier I deal with sells "thin stock". Due to the labor cost to mill the thin boards, along with the loss due to relieving the stress in the thicker stock the thin stock is much more expensive (the thinner the high the cost per bd/ft). An example, the current price on 4/4 red oak is $3.30 bd/ft. 2/4 red oak is $6.50 bd/ft. I think he would end up spending more. -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA |
#57
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Flooring question - how thin
"Nova" wrote in message ... On Tue, 29 May 2012 19:57:28 -0400, "Mike Marlow" wrote: (snipped) They went to a local mill and got prices, which really are not bad. My son came up with the idea of asking the mill to simply run the lumber through the band saw again, taking it from 1x8 to 1/2x8. His thought is that he can end up with more lumber for less money, and enough savings to buy a planer to touch them up with - or a double belt sander. The lumber supplier I deal with sells "thin stock". Due to the labor cost to mill the thin boards, along with the loss due to relieving the stress in the thicker stock the thin stock is much more expensive (the thinner the high the cost per bd/ft). An example, the current price on 4/4 red oak is $3.30 bd/ft. 2/4 red oak is $6.50 bd/ft. I think he would end up spending more. -- Makes me wonder if they are just running the 4/4 through the thickness planer to get it down to 2/4... John |
#58
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Flooring question - how thin
Nova wrote:
On Tue, 29 May 2012 19:57:28 -0400, "Mike Marlow" wrote: (snipped) They went to a local mill and got prices, which really are not bad. My son came up with the idea of asking the mill to simply run the lumber through the band saw again, taking it from 1x8 to 1/2x8. His thought is that he can end up with more lumber for less money, and enough savings to buy a planer to touch them up with - or a double belt sander. The lumber supplier I deal with sells "thin stock". Due to the labor cost to mill the thin boards, along with the loss due to relieving the stress in the thicker stock the thin stock is much more expensive (the thinner the high the cost per bd/ft). An example, the current price on 4/4 red oak is $3.30 bd/ft. 2/4 red oak is $6.50 bd/ft. I think he would end up spending more. That'd very interesting. Good input - thanks. I have not talked to my son since the weekend, but I suspect that if he has talked to the sawyer, he's probably already heard that his ideas aren't going to work. -- -Mike- |
#59
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Flooring question - how thin
On 5/31/2012 10:06 AM, John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Nova" wrote in message ... On Tue, 29 May 2012 19:57:28 -0400, "Mike Marlow" wrote: (snipped) They went to a local mill and got prices, which really are not bad. My son came up with the idea of asking the mill to simply run the lumber through the band saw again, taking it from 1x8 to 1/2x8. His thought is that he can end up with more lumber for less money, and enough savings to buy a planer to touch them up with - or a double belt sander. The lumber supplier I deal with sells "thin stock". Due to the labor cost to mill the thin boards, along with the loss due to relieving the stress in the thicker stock the thin stock is much more expensive (the thinner the high the cost per bd/ft). An example, the current price on 4/4 red oak is $3.30 bd/ft. 2/4 red oak is $6.50 bd/ft. I think he would end up spending more. -- Makes me wonder if they are just running the 4/4 through the thickness planer to get it down to 2/4... That would be the typical for small quantities...for large bundles they may actually saw to 3/4 rough but a retailer probably just recoups the cost of the rough stock and does just what you say... -- |
#60
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Flooring question - how thin
My nails, either, but they start about 1/2" below the surface. These
nails will not be 1/2". I can see if it gets sealed on top and not vapour barrier to the subfloor, the moistures would share and perhaps equal expansions coefficients might prevent some splitting. I have spent a lot of my life fighting standard ways on some issues and it mostly gets revealed why the standard ways are tried and true. Geeezz. I am in a town where raw oak flooring is sold for $1.25 per sq.ft. Fresh sawn lumber is going to shrink and pull lots. --------------- "Mike Marlow" wrote in message ... You may be right on the splitting - that wood would be quite thin. As for the rusting - nope. My floors have been in 27 years and not a single sign of rust from the nails. Of course - gravity does do its thing and if there is rust, it's likely to be below the nail - not above it. -------------- m II wrote: Expect lot of splitting to the point the whole floor will likely be replaced in a few years. Rusty nails may show through with staining too. -- -Mike- |
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