On Thu, 02 Feb 2012 11:08:14 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html

Looks like good stuff! I've heard of them, but that was the first
time I've seen the Woodpecker web site. I'll investigate more after
I'm through with my "chores".. Thank you!

Bill Woodcraft also sells a black in color version of the same stuff
with the Pinnacle badge. Some times less expensive and Amazon sells
Pinnacle too.

Is Pinnacle the same company as Woodpeckers? Their products lines are closer
than many identical twins.

On Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:58:29 -0500, Bill wrote:

On 2/2/2012 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html

Looks like good stuff! I've heard of them, but that was the first
time I've seen the Woodpecker web site. I'll investigate more after
I'm through with my "chores".. Thank you!

Bill Woodcraft also sells a black in color version of the same stuff
with the Pinnacle badge. Some times less expensive and Amazon sells
Pinnacle too.

Thanks! I'll try to get my paws on one at Woodcraft. They appear to be
of nice quality.

I have the Woodpeckers version. It's really nice.

On 2/4/2012 12:00 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 02 Feb 2012 11:08:14 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html

Looks like good stuff! I've heard of them, but that was the first
time I've seen the Woodpecker web site. I'll investigate more after
I'm through with my "chores".. Thank you!

Bill Woodcraft also sells a black in color version of the same stuff
with the Pinnacle badge. Some times less expensive and Amazon sells
Pinnacle too.

Is Pinnacle the same company as Woodpeckers? Their products lines are closer
than many identical twins.

I believe Woodpeckers manufactures Pinnacle for others as an alternate
line. I have the WoodPeckers 48" Story Stick Pro and the Pinnacle 24"
Story stick Pro. They come in identical packaging label except the
lables pictures show red on one black in the other and brand name is
different. Illustrations are the same.

Pinnacle is suppose to be more expensive and I actually prefer the black
vs red back ground for reading the measurements.

BUT I found Pinnacle to be less expensive at Woodcraft than Woodpeckers
direct.

On 2/4/2012 12:01 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:58:29 -0500, wrote:

On 2/2/2012 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html

Looks like good stuff! I've heard of them, but that was the first
time I've seen the Woodpecker web site. I'll investigate more after
I'm through with my "chores".. Thank you!

Bill Woodcraft also sells a black in color version of the same stuff
with the Pinnacle badge. Some times less expensive and Amazon sells
Pinnacle too.

Thanks! I'll try to get my paws on one at Woodcraft. They appear to be
of nice quality.

I have the Woodpeckers version. It's really nice.

Story stick Pro? I original bought mine with thoughts of using it to
accurately set the Festool parallel guide stops. I know you have the
track saw, if you have the parallel guides or ever get them the Story
Stick Pro works great!

On Sat, 04 Feb 2012 10:27:43 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 2/4/2012 12:01 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:58:29 -0500, wrote:

On 2/2/2012 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html

Looks like good stuff! I've heard of them, but that was the first
time I've seen the Woodpecker web site. I'll investigate more after
I'm through with my "chores".. Thank you!

Bill Woodcraft also sells a black in color version of the same stuff
with the Pinnacle badge. Some times less expensive and Amazon sells
Pinnacle too.

Thanks! I'll try to get my paws on one at Woodcraft. They appear to be
of nice quality.

I have the Woodpeckers version. It's really nice.

Story stick Pro?

Yes. I have the 4' version. I'm thinking about buying the 2' also.

I original bought mine with thoughts of using it to
accurately set the Festool parallel guide stops. I know you have the
track saw, if you have the parallel guides or ever get them the Story
Stick Pro works great!

Hadn't thought of that. Great idea! Yes, I have the parallel guides but
haven't used them for much yet. I'll definitely try that. I'll likely not be
doing much woodworking for a few months but I'll definitely file that trick
away.


This looks like something worthwhile, too:

campaigns.serverhost.net/lt.php?c=4356&m=3156&nl=578&s=f81a7c393c5e473a3f61 badda2c11d92&lid=47486&l=-http--www.woodpeck.com/rule50.html

On Sat, 04 Feb 2012 10:24:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 2/4/2012 12:00 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 02 Feb 2012 11:08:14 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html

Looks like good stuff! I've heard of them, but that was the first
time I've seen the Woodpecker web site. I'll investigate more after
I'm through with my "chores".. Thank you!

Bill Woodcraft also sells a black in color version of the same stuff
with the Pinnacle badge. Some times less expensive and Amazon sells
Pinnacle too.

Is Pinnacle the same company as Woodpeckers? Their products lines are closer
than many identical twins.

I believe Woodpeckers manufactures Pinnacle for others as an alternate
line. I have the WoodPeckers 48" Story Stick Pro and the Pinnacle 24"
Story stick Pro. They come in identical packaging label except the
lables pictures show red on one black in the other and brand name is
different. Illustrations are the same.

That's pretty much as I suspected.

Pinnacle is suppose to be more expensive and I actually prefer the black
vs red back ground for reading the measurements.

I prefer the red. ;-)

BUT I found Pinnacle to be less expensive at Woodcraft than Woodpeckers
direct.

Woodpeckers often has some nice sales. Some of their "one time tools" are
slick, too.

On 2/4/2012 12:18 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:


Hadn't thought of that. Great idea! Yes, I have the parallel guides but
haven't used them for much yet. I'll definitely try that. I'll likely not be
doing much woodworking for a few months but I'll definitely file that trick
away.


This looks like something worthwhile, too:

campaigns.serverhost.net/lt.php?c=4356&m=3156&nl=578&s=f81a7c393c5e473a3f61 badda2c11d92&lid=47486&l=-http--www.woodpeck.com/rule50.html

I have almost pulled the trigger on that a couple of times, originally
with the one time limited production run. Apparently they are making
more than were ordered. The stick is certainly worth the price but I
absolutely would watn the hook and that pumps it up to about $70 plus S&H.

I think I can use my 48" story stick instead.


Going back to the story stick and the parallel guides. I have the story
stick turned 90 degrees so that the plastic indexing tabs point up and
down. Then I place 1 end of the clear indexing tab on the bench top
against the track edge next to where the saw blade cuts and the other
against the parallel guide indexing stop. I though of using the back of
the track but that would involve calculations. Setting the parallel
guide stops this way removes any error that may be caused by excessive
play between the track and the left or right side parallel guide.

The first time I tried this I marked my plywood with the story stick on
both sides and then use the story stick to set the parallel guides.
When I set the guides and track on the plywood the track edge lined up
perfectly with my marks. After making the cut the story stick settings
perfectly matched the resulting panel, AS all of this should have.

If that explanation was confusing I would gladly post or send you a
picture of the set up. In this case a picture might be worth 5000
words. ;~) The pictures also show a modification to the guide stops
that Swingman found and he got the materials for us to use to make this
quick simple helpful modification. It holds the back end of the guides
up if they are not setting on top of a work surface.

On 2/4/2012 12:21 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 04 Feb 2012 10:24:45 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 2/4/2012 12:00 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 02 Feb 2012 11:08:14 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html

Looks like good stuff! I've heard of them, but that was the first
time I've seen the Woodpecker web site. I'll investigate more after
I'm through with my "chores".. Thank you!

Bill Woodcraft also sells a black in color version of the same stuff
with the Pinnacle badge. Some times less expensive and Amazon sells
Pinnacle too.

Is Pinnacle the same company as Woodpeckers? Their products lines are closer
than many identical twins.

I believe Woodpeckers manufactures Pinnacle for others as an alternate
line. I have the WoodPeckers 48" Story Stick Pro and the Pinnacle 24"
Story stick Pro. They come in identical packaging label except the
lables pictures show red on one black in the other and brand name is
different. Illustrations are the same.

That's pretty much as I suspected.

Pinnacle is suppose to be more expensive and I actually prefer the black
vs red back ground for reading the measurements.

I prefer the red. ;-)

Certainly prettier! I think the black is marginally easier to read.


BUT I found Pinnacle to be less expensive at Woodcraft than Woodpeckers
direct.

Woodpeckers often has some nice sales. Some of their "one time tools" are
slick, too.

Yeah that is how I got my long 48" pro, on sale. I like their one time
tools butthey are priced a little like Festool. I wish whey were corded
like Festool. ;~)

CW wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 2/3/2012 9:41 AM, Dave wrote:
On Fri, 03 Feb 2012 09:32:15 -0600, wrote:
within arms reach. When it matters, I start measuring from 1"
(rather then relying on the "end catch").
Go ahead and use the "end catch".

Besides, aren't end catches designed to move the same thickness of
the end catch? In other words, it cancels the difference between
inside and outside measurements.

Until the holes or rivets wear out
================================================== =======
In about 75 years.
================================================== =========
OR you drop it and bend the end and
it catches in a different place each time you use it.
================================================== ==========
Simple solution, don't drop it.

Swingman wrote:

Speaking of Festool ... my Festool tape measure is, IMO, one Festool
item that was not worth the money.


Except that it was the only brand available at the time with built in dust
collection ports...

--

-Mike-

On Sun, 5 Feb 2012 08:34:00 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Swingman wrote:

Speaking of Festool ... my Festool tape measure is, IMO, one Festool
item that was not worth the money.


Except that it was the only brand available at the time with built in dust
collection ports...

TEA, all over my screen and keyboard...

--
Energy and persistence alter all things.
--Benjamin Franklin

On 2/5/2012 10:29 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 5 Feb 2012 08:34:00 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Swingman wrote:

Speaking of Festool ... my Festool tape measure is, IMO, one Festool
item that was not worth the money.


Except that it was the only brand available at the time with built in dust
collection ports...

TEA, all over my screen and keyboard...

+1

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 6:45 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 11:58 AM, Bill wrote:
On 2/2/2012 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html


If you are enjoying your Story Stick Pro, then you're just the kind of
customer they want to watch the video here! Enjoy the smoothe sales pitch.

http://www.woodpeck.com/wpdrillpresstable.html

On 2/8/2012 9:22 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 6:45 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 11:58 AM, Bill wrote:
On 2/2/2012 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html


If you are enjoying your Story Stick Pro, then you're just the kind of
customer they want to watch the video here! Enjoy the smoothe sales pitch.

http://www.woodpeck.com/wpdrillpresstable.html

Thanks Bill.... I find this stuff fast enough on my own.... I wonder
if it is going on sale soon. ;~)


And if you lied that....

Check the video here at the bottom of the page...I have this tool too
and it works effortlessly as advertised.

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...kerfmaker.html

I use that tool to make these.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/


and

http://benchcrafted.com/Gallery.html

All great video's here but I especially like the Glide leg vice.

On 2/9/2012 8:19 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/8/2012 9:22 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 6:45 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 11:58 AM, Bill wrote:
On 2/2/2012 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth
their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html


If you are enjoying your Story Stick Pro, then you're just the kind of
customer they want to watch the video here! Enjoy the smoothe sales
pitch.

http://www.woodpeck.com/wpdrillpresstable.html

Thanks Bill.... I find this stuff fast enough on my own.... I wonder if
it is going on sale soon. ;~)

Okay, here's another newbe question I have had on the Aluminum rules.
Owning them, do you mark/cut along them with a knife or box cutter, or
are they just not designed for that sort of abuse. For instance, would
that compromise the edges (as I am concerned it might)?

I haven't looked at your links below yet, but I will!





And if you lied that....

Check the video here at the bottom of the page...I have this tool too
and it works effortlessly as advertised.

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...kerfmaker.html

I use that tool to make these.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...ream/lightbox/


and

http://benchcrafted.com/Gallery.html

All great video's here but I especially like the Glide leg vice.

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

On 2/8/2012 9:22 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 6:45 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 11:58 AM, Bill wrote:
On 2/2/2012 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth
their weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html


If you are enjoying your Story Stick Pro, then you're just the kind
of customer they want to watch the video here! Enjoy the smoothe
sales pitch.

http://www.woodpeck.com/wpdrillpresstable.html

Thanks Bill.... I find this stuff fast enough on my own.... I wonder
if it is going on sale soon. ;~)


And if you lied that....

Check the video here at the bottom of the page...I have this tool too
and it works effortlessly as advertised.

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...kerfmaker.html

I use that tool to make these.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...stream/lightbo
x/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...stream/lightbo
x/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...stream/lightbo
x/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb1121...stream/lightbo
x/


and

http://benchcrafted.com/Gallery.html

All great video's here but I especially like the Glide leg vice.

drooling ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 2/9/2012 7:19 AM, Leon wrote:

Check the video here at the bottom of the page...I have this tool too
and it works effortlessly as advertised.

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...kerfmaker.html

I'm going to need to see your technique. I used it again just recently
on the current desk project and, for the third time, spent more time
screwing with it than if I had broken out the dado set and gone after it
in the first place.

Ultimately, it works, but not without more fussing then I'm prepared to
spend.

I think my problem is in setting the cutting blade width, and/or when
moving the fence on the TS for the second cut.

I even followed Paul-Marcel's video to a "t" this last time, including
making a couple of his setup blocks:

http://www.halfinchshy.com/search/label/KM-1

The resulting joint is initially always too tight. Do you use any
experienced based fudge factor?

Perhaps I'm being too precise?

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Thu, 09 Feb 2012 08:39:26 -0600, Swingman wrote:
I'm going to need to see your technique. I used it again just recently
on the current desk project and, for the third time, spent more time
screwing with it than if I had broken out the dado set and gone after it
in the first place.

I had that same problem until I finally memorized the measuring steps
in proper order. If you haven't seen it yet, then you should have a
look on the BCT website for the demo. If that doesn't do it for you
then search on YouTube for the Kerfmaker.

Bill wrote in
:

Okay, here's another newbe question I have had on the Aluminum rules.
Owning them, do you mark/cut along them with a knife or box cutter, or
are they just not designed for that sort of abuse. For instance,
would that compromise the edges (as I am concerned it might)?

If you use a proper marking knife, that's not an issue: the edge is beveled on only one side. If you put
the flat of the knife against the rule -- and keep it there -- you can draw your marks with no risk of
damaging the rule.

On 2/9/2012 8:55 AM, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 09 Feb 2012 08:39:26 -0600, wrote:
I'm going to need to see your technique. I used it again just recently
on the current desk project and, for the third time, spent more time
screwing with it than if I had broken out the dado set and gone after it
in the first place.

I had that same problem until I finally memorized the measuring steps
in proper order. If you haven't seen it yet, then you should have a
look on the BCT website for the demo. If that doesn't do it for you
then search on YouTube for the Kerfmaker.

Thanks, Dave. BTDT, understand the principles of the jig, and order of
march, still have not been able to make it do its thing _on the first
try_ without tweaking something, including cheating a bit with the fence
(I've been using a board, well clamped to the fence, as the reference
point).

That's what it's touted for ... quick setup.

I did, stubbornly, use it this last time to cut all the project dadoes
in stage one of a large desk project, and was happy with the final fit
..... but, it was not a "quick setup", and took more time, considering
the time futzing with it, then that each piece having to be run through
the setup twice, than my Freud Dial-A-Width dado stack.

I believe my problem lies with setting the width of the cutting blade
accurately enough; or something not being precise enough when moving the
fence for the second cut?

What method are you guys using to set your blade width?

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 2/9/2012 7:41 AM, Bill wrote:
On 2/9/2012 8:19 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/8/2012 9:22 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 6:45 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 2/2/2012 11:58 AM, Bill wrote:
On 2/2/2012 12:08 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/1/2012 6:10 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

http://www.woodpeck.com/

And on sale now!

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

And the Story Stick Pro available in 24 and 48 inch are worth
their
weight in gold.

http://www.woodpeck.com/measuringhome.html


If you are enjoying your Story Stick Pro, then you're just the kind of
customer they want to watch the video here! Enjoy the smoothe sales
pitch.

http://www.woodpeck.com/wpdrillpresstable.html

Thanks Bill.... I find this stuff fast enough on my own.... I wonder if
it is going on sale soon. ;~)

Okay, here's another newbe question I have had on the Aluminum rules.
Owning them, do you mark/cut along them with a knife or box cutter, or
are they just not designed for that sort of abuse. For instance, would
that compromise the edges (as I am concerned it might)?

I haven't looked at your links below yet, but I will!

What Doug said in most cases but these just might have hardened edges as
they are being demonstrated with use ofwhat appears to be an Exacto knife.

http://www.woodpeck.com/woodworkingrules.html

On 2/9/2012 8:39 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/9/2012 7:19 AM, Leon wrote:

Check the video here at the bottom of the page...I have this tool too
and it works effortlessly as advertised.

http://www.bridgecitytools.com/defau...kerfmaker.html

I'm going to need to see your technique. I used it again just recently
on the current desk project and, for the third time, spent more time
screwing with it than if I had broken out the dado set and gone after it
in the first place.

Ultimately, it works, but not without more fussing then I'm prepared to
spend.

I think my problem is in setting the cutting blade width, and/or when
moving the fence on the TS for the second cut.

I even followed Paul-Marcel's video to a "t" this last time, including
making a couple of his setup blocks:

http://www.halfinchshy.com/search/label/KM-1

The resulting joint is initially always too tight. Do you use any
experienced based fudge factor?

Perhaps I'm being too precise?


If it is always too tight, add a thin shim .007" maybe a piece of
newspaper or printer paper to the thickness of the test cut for
calibrating jig to the actual cutter kerf width. After that you should
be fine. You should only need to to that on the cutter kerf adjustment
to calibrate the jig. After that you can be as exact as you want to be
when measuring for the needed width of cut.

Another thing I do not use the calipers to transfer the cutter kerf
width to calibrate the jig, I use the method where you make a limited
rip on scrap and cut that section off and stack it back on the scrap to
calibrate the jig.

Basically if you are getting a too tight result every time it is your
initial calibration. Try using a very thin shim to add to the resulting
test cut as mentioned above.

On 2/9/2012 9:12 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/9/2012 8:55 AM, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 09 Feb 2012 08:39:26 -0600, wrote:
I'm going to need to see your technique. I used it again just recently
on the current desk project and, for the third time, spent more time
screwing with it than if I had broken out the dado set and gone after it
in the first place.

I had that same problem until I finally memorized the measuring steps
in proper order. If you haven't seen it yet, then you should have a
look on the BCT website for the demo. If that doesn't do it for you
then search on YouTube for the Kerfmaker.

Thanks, Dave. BTDT, understand the principles of the jig, and order of
march, still have not been able to make it do its thing _on the first
try_ without tweaking something, including cheating a bit with the fence
(I've been using a board, well clamped to the fence, as the reference
point).

That's what it's touted for ... quick setup.

I did, stubbornly, use it this last time to cut all the project dadoes
in stage one of a large desk project, and was happy with the final fit
.... but, it was not a "quick setup", and took more time, considering
the time futzing with it, then that each piece having to be run through
the setup twice, than my Freud Dial-A-Width dado stack.

I believe my problem lies with setting the width of the cutting blade
accurately enough; or something not being precise enough when moving the
fence for the second cut?

What method are you guys using to set your blade width?


Stacking the wood pieces and calibrating off the resulting difference.

And that is going to be a very snug fit. There is no gap. Remember
also that a one inch wide dado in plywood will measure differently than
a 1" wide dado in Ipe. Not much but enough to throw off a "perfectly"
tight fit. IIRC I read some where that tweaking slightly wider on
calibration takes care of these odd characteristics of wood.

On 2/9/2012 9:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2012 9:12 AM, Swingman wrote:



What method are you guys using to set your blade width?


Stacking the wood pieces and calibrating off the resulting difference.

And that is going to be a very snug fit. There is no gap. Remember also
that a one inch wide dado in plywood will measure differently than a 1"
wide dado in Ipe. Not much but enough to throw off a "perfectly" tight
fit. IIRC I read some where that tweaking slightly wider on calibration
takes care of these odd characteristics of wood.

Like this:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...61313294104322

Ahhh, so you guys are indeed fudging a bit ... actually thought about
the shimming, but that seemed, at least according to all the videos,
something that should not be necessary.

Here I'm being the good little boy scout and taking the maker, and all
instructions, at face value and trying mightily to do the right thing,
without fudging and cheating, to make it work as advertised ... not
something I usually do.

I like it ... shim's it will be. I suppose that you can also shim after
the fact, when resetting the fence for the second cut.

Thanks ... I won't feel so bad about cheating the damned expensive
little gadget.

After all, this was one of John Grossbohlin's "unjustified" purchases. :-J

"tongue in cheek", John! LOL

--
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Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Thu, 09 Feb 2012 09:12:11 -0600, Swingman wrote:
I believe my problem lies with setting the width of the cutting blade
accurately enough; or something not being precise enough when moving the
fence for the second cut?

What method are you guys using to set your blade width?

I used something similar to Leon's shim. In my case I generally use a
business card so the joints aren't too tight. As far as remembering
the sequence of steps, I had trouble too until I watched a specific
YouTube video. I'll see if I can find the link for you.

On 2/9/2012 10:39 AM, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 09 Feb 2012 09:12:11 -0600, wrote:
I believe my problem lies with setting the width of the cutting blade
accurately enough; or something not being precise enough when moving the
fence for the second cut?

What method are you guys using to set your blade width?

I used something similar to Leon's shim. In my case I generally use a
business card so the joints aren't too tight. As far as remembering
the sequence of steps, I had trouble too until I watched a specific
YouTube video. I'll see if I can find the link for you.

Thanks, Dave ... I don't think an incorrect setup sequence is my
problem, as I've watched all the youtube videos available that search
would bring up ... but I could be wrong.

Use of shims is something I was not doing, but I'm certainly going to
start doing so based on both you and Leon's advice!

I like your business card shim idea. With this last bunch I cut using
the KM, that was about the right thickness I used to solve the problem
and get it working to my satisfaction.

Thanks!

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

"Leon" wrote in message
...


What Doug said in most cases but these just might have hardened edges as
they are being demonstrated with use ofwhat appears to be an Exacto knife.
================================================== ======================
They are actually hardened all over. That is the nature of anodizing. The
coating is extremely thin however and is easy to get under with a sharp
tool. Using it with a marking knife is possible but one slip and it's (the
rule) marked for life.

"Swingman" wrote in message
...

On 2/9/2012 9:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2012 9:12 AM, Swingman wrote:



What method are you guys using to set your blade width?


Stacking the wood pieces and calibrating off the resulting difference.

And that is going to be a very snug fit. There is no gap. Remember also
that a one inch wide dado in plywood will measure differently than a 1"
wide dado in Ipe. Not much but enough to throw off a "perfectly" tight
fit. IIRC I read some where that tweaking slightly wider on calibration
takes care of these odd characteristics of wood.

Like this:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...61313294104322

Ahhh, so you guys are indeed fudging a bit ... actually thought about
the shimming, but that seemed, at least according to all the videos,
something that should not be necessary.

Here I'm being the good little boy scout and taking the maker, and all
instructions, at face value and trying mightily to do the right thing,
without fudging and cheating, to make it work as advertised ... not
something I usually do.

I like it ... shim's it will be. I suppose that you can also shim after
the fact, when resetting the fence for the second cut.

Thanks ... I won't feel so bad about cheating the damned expensive
little gadget.

After all, this was one of John Grossbohlin's "unjustified" purchases. :-J

"tongue in cheek", John! LOL
================================================== ===========
When calibrating for the blade thickness. Throw in the thickness of a piece
of paper. This will give you about .003 "slop". A good fit without being
tight.

On 2/9/2012 2:32 PM, CW wrote:


"Swingman" wrote in message

What method are you guys using to set your blade width?

When calibrating for the blade thickness. Throw in the thickness of a
piece of paper. This will give you about .003 "slop". A good fit without
being tight.

Thank you!

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 2/9/2012 2:07 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...


What Doug said in most cases but these just might have hardened edges as
they are being demonstrated with use ofwhat appears to be an Exacto knife.
================================================== ======================
They are actually hardened all over. That is the nature of anodizing.
The coating is extremely thin however and is easy to get under with a
sharp tool. Using it with a marking knife is possible but one slip and
it's (the rule) marked for life.

Understood, I do know that there are harder aluminum's and thought
maybe they might use that in addition to the anodizing. Especially
sense their site shows some one using an exacto knife along that edge.

On 2/9/2012 9:54 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/9/2012 9:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2012 9:12 AM, Swingman wrote:



What method are you guys using to set your blade width?


Stacking the wood pieces and calibrating off the resulting difference.

And that is going to be a very snug fit. There is no gap. Remember also
that a one inch wide dado in plywood will measure differently than a 1"
wide dado in Ipe. Not much but enough to throw off a "perfectly" tight
fit. IIRC I read some where that tweaking slightly wider on calibration
takes care of these odd characteristics of wood.

Like this:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1113554...61313294104322


Ahhh, so you guys are indeed fudging a bit ... actually thought about
the shimming, but that seemed, at least according to all the videos,
something that should not be necessary.

Here I'm being the good little boy scout and taking the maker, and all
instructions, at face value and trying mightily to do the right thing,
without fudging and cheating, to make it work as advertised ... not
something I usually do.

I like it ... shim's it will be. I suppose that you can also shim after
the fact, when resetting the fence for the second cut.

You would have to do that every time. If you shim for calibration that
will take care of all cuts.





Thanks ... I won't feel so bad about cheating the damned expensive
little gadget.

After all, this was one of John Grossbohlin's "unjustified" purchases. :-J

"tongue in cheek", John! LOL

On 2/9/2012 10:57 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/9/2012 10:39 AM, Dave wrote:
On Thu, 09 Feb 2012 09:12:11 -0600, wrote:
I believe my problem lies with setting the width of the cutting blade
accurately enough; or something not being precise enough when moving the
fence for the second cut?

What method are you guys using to set your blade width?

I used something similar to Leon's shim. In my case I generally use a
business card so the joints aren't too tight. As far as remembering
the sequence of steps, I had trouble too until I watched a specific
YouTube video. I'll see if I can find the link for you.

Thanks, Dave ... I don't think an incorrect setup sequence is my
problem, as I've watched all the youtube videos available that search
would bring up ... but I could be wrong.

Use of shims is something I was not doing, but I'm certainly going to
start doing so based on both you and Leon's advice!

I like your business card shim idea. With this last bunch I cut using
the KM, that was about the right thickness I used to solve the problem
and get it working to my satisfaction.

Thanks!


I am not saying Dave is wrong using a business card but I would think
that would be too loose. Test a few different shim methods and see
which works best for you. I think you will find the jig to be quite
good at what it does once you have it calibrated the way you like it.

It is one of those jigs that don't require you to pull out the
instructions again and again between uses. LOL

I have not been using mine lately as my 3/4" plywood has been using 2
outer and 4 chippers on my dado sets w/o shims. This thing is hard to
beat for narrow slots 1/4" wide.

For wider dado's I would load up the dado set just past half the width I
needed and use the kerf maker to do the rest. Basically I had a gauge
to calibrate the kerf maker for 2 outer and 2 chipper blades.

On 2/9/2012 2:52 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2012 9:54 AM, Swingman wrote:


I like it ... shim's it will be. I suppose that you can also shim after
the fact, when resetting the fence for the second cut.

You would have to do that every time. If you shim for calibration that
will take care of all cuts.

Understand ... I was trying to save the two little calibration jigs I
made and not have to do those over. But not a big deal to make them again.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On 2/9/2012 3:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/9/2012 2:52 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2012 9:54 AM, Swingman wrote:


I like it ... shim's it will be. I suppose that you can also shim after
the fact, when resetting the fence for the second cut.

You would have to do that every time. If you shim for calibration that
will take care of all cuts.

Understand ... I was trying to save the two little calibration jigs I
made and not have to do those over. But not a big deal to make them again.


Put a piece of maksing tape on the jig for a shim.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 2/9/2012 2:07 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...


What Doug said in most cases but these just might have hardened edges as
they are being demonstrated with use ofwhat appears to be an Exacto knife.
================================================== ======================
They are actually hardened all over. That is the nature of anodizing.
The coating is extremely thin however and is easy to get under with a
sharp tool. Using it with a marking knife is possible but one slip and
it's (the rule) marked for life.

Understood, I do know that there are harder aluminum's and thought
maybe they might use that in addition to the anodizing. Especially
sense their site shows some one using an exacto knife along that edge.
================================================== =============
I'm sure they are using a hard aluminum. Probably tempered 6061 or 7075. As
unintuitive as it would seem, hard aluminum is much easier to machine than
soft stuff. Even the hardest aluminum though is much softer than hardened
steel (knife blade). I think the x acto in the picture is more advertising
hype than practicality. I would never use one of these with a knife but for
measuring, they look like a fine product. Another up side. They are American
made on Haas machines. Haas is made in USA.

CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...


What Doug said in most cases but these just might have hardened edges as
they are being demonstrated with use ofwhat appears to be an Exacto knife.
================================================== ======================
They are actually hardened all over. That is the nature of anodizing.
The coating is extremely thin however and is easy to get under with a
sharp tool. Using it with a marking knife is possible but one slip and
it's (the rule) marked for life.


Are the Starrett combination squares rules better in this regard since
the metal is "forged/hardened"? I have a 12" one. I noticed that a
Starrett 36" Steel rule is about $125, so that is not under
consideration. A 6" combination square is coveted however--still around
$80.

On 2/9/2012 3:48 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 2/9/2012 2:07 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...


What Doug said in most cases but these just might have hardened edges as
they are being demonstrated with use ofwhat appears to be an Exacto
knife.
================================================== ======================
They are actually hardened all over. That is the nature of anodizing.
The coating is extremely thin however and is easy to get under with a
sharp tool. Using it with a marking knife is possible but one slip and
it's (the rule) marked for life.

Understood, I do know that there are harder aluminum's and thought
maybe they might use that in addition to the anodizing. Especially
sense their site shows some one using an exacto knife along that edge.
================================================== =============
I'm sure they are using a hard aluminum. Probably tempered 6061 or 7075.
As unintuitive as it would seem, hard aluminum is much easier to machine
than soft stuff. Even the hardest aluminum though is much softer than
hardened steel (knife blade). I think the x acto in the picture is more
advertising hype than practicality. I would never use one of these with
a knife but for measuring, they look like a fine product. Another up
side. They are American made on Haas machines. Haas is made in USA.

Don't think I would use a knife on it either...

Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2012 3:48 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 2/9/2012 2:07 PM, CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...


What Doug said in most cases but these just might have hardened edges as
they are being demonstrated with use ofwhat appears to be an Exacto
knife.
================================================== ======================
They are actually hardened all over. That is the nature of anodizing.
The coating is extremely thin however and is easy to get under with a
sharp tool. Using it with a marking knife is possible but one slip and
it's (the rule) marked for life.

Understood, I do know that there are harder aluminum's and thought
maybe they might use that in addition to the anodizing. Especially
sense their site shows some one using an exacto knife along that edge.
================================================== =============
I'm sure they are using a hard aluminum. Probably tempered 6061 or 7075.
As unintuitive as it would seem, hard aluminum is much easier to machine
than soft stuff. Even the hardest aluminum though is much softer than
hardened steel (knife blade). I think the x acto in the picture is more
advertising hype than practicality. I would never use one of these with
a knife but for measuring, they look like a fine product. Another up
side. They are American made on Haas machines. Haas is made in USA.

Don't think I would use a knife on it either...

Being the prospective new owner, I think I agree. Thank you for all for
the replies! What about with "forged" Starrett rules (from combination
squares)? Are they basically safe from a knife blade? Too bad their
36" rule is $125, or so! A new 6" one would be nice.

"Bill" wrote in message ...

CW wrote:


"Leon" wrote in message
...


What Doug said in most cases but these just might have hardened edges as
they are being demonstrated with use ofwhat appears to be an Exacto knife.
================================================== ======================
They are actually hardened all over. That is the nature of anodizing.
The coating is extremely thin however and is easy to get under with a
sharp tool. Using it with a marking knife is possible but one slip and
it's (the rule) marked for life.


Are the Starrett combination squares rules better in this regard since
the metal is "forged/hardened"? I have a 12" one. I noticed that a
Starrett 36" Steel rule is about $125, so that is not under
consideration. A 6" combination square is coveted however--still around
$80.
================================================== ========================
The Starrett combination squares are ideal for marking out with scriber or
rule. As a matter of fact, this is what they were designed for. At one time,
a high quality (Starrett, Brown and sharp, Lufkin ect) combo square was a
must have for any apprentice machinist, sheet metal worker or cabinet maker.
I hear you about the 6" combo square. Been wanting one for years.

On Thu, 09 Feb 2012 14:59:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
I am not saying Dave is wrong using a business card but I would think
that would be too loose. Test a few different shim methods and see
which works best for you. I think you will find the jig to be quite
good at what it does once you have it calibrated the way you like it.

Definitely some testing should be done. As far as thickness goes,
there's business cards that are more the thickness of cardboard and
there's business cards that are thin like paper, just stiffer
material. Mine are the latter.