I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. Roland Johnson, from FWW,
was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular)
for doing TS set-up. I would like to use it to measure run-out too.
Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. I saw this one at Grizzly:

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849

Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and
several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking
at them, they look like they have come from the same source. Lots of
reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped
and fall apart.

At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return
it if it falls apart in 30 days.

Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)?

Bill

On Jan 23, 12:06*am, Bill wrote:
I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. *Roland Johnson, from FWW,
was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular)
for doing TS set-up. *I would like to use it to measure run-out too.
Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. *I saw this one at Grizzly:

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849

Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and
several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking
at them, they look like they have come from the same source. *Lots of
reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped
and fall apart.

At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return
it if it falls apart in 30 days.

Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)?

This style base is supposed to be better, arm is supposed to not
be as prone to slipping:

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Flexib...lb-Force/G9625

OTOH, what do you want for $20? The dial is plenty useful
with other shopmade jigs. Note that the back of the magnetic
base sticks as well as the bottom.

On 1/23/2012 12:45 AM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Jan 23, 12:06 am, wrote:
I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. Roland Johnson, from FWW,
was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular)
for doing TS set-up. I would like to use it to measure run-out too.
Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. I saw this one at Grizzly:

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849

Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and
several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking
at them, they look like they have come from the same source. Lots of
reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped
and fall apart.

At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return
it if it falls apart in 30 days.

Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)?

This style base is supposed to be better, arm is supposed to not
be as prone to slipping:

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Flexib...lb-Force/G9625

OTOH, what do you want for $20?

This may in fact be a better solution since the other one has issues.
This solution appears to be in the $50-60 range when you include a dial
indicator and P&H. I can probably budget for that. Perhaps I can
recover some of these expenses from my first sale! ; ) Thanks for the
suggestion!


The dial is plenty useful
with other shopmade jigs. Note that the back of the magnetic
base sticks as well as the bottom.

Father Haskell wrote:


This style base is supposed to be better, arm is supposed to not
be as prone to slipping:


http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Flexib...lb-Force/G9625

OTOH, what do you want for $20? The dial is plenty useful
with other shopmade jigs. Note that the back of the magnetic
base sticks as well as the bottom.

The base-holder arrived in the mail today. The overall quality exceeds
my expectations: It locks down tight and is more rugged than the picture
shows. Thank you for menioning this product, FH! I noticed that it
does not apper in Grizzly's new catalog and I'm not sure whether it was
in their old one. The link above takes one right to it, of course.

FH, I just noticed your reference to "shop made jigs" above. Could you
share an idea or two of how you found the dial useful?

Bill

On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 00:06:48 -0500, Bill wrote:

I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. Roland Johnson, from FWW,
was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular)
for doing TS set-up. I would like to use it to measure run-out too.
Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. I saw this one at Grizzly:

Huh? Tablesaw setup? You'd want a DI set up on a miter slot for
that, wouldn't you? Or a height gauge?


http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849

Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and
several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking
at them, they look like they have come from the same source. Lots of
reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped
and fall apart.

At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return
it if it falls apart in 30 days.

Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)?

They all seem to work fine, so grab what's closest. Since they measure
relative distances, the precision is in the dial indicator and they
all can read 0.001" (or 0.01mm) easily enough.

I bought the HF components for $5.99 each locally on sale.
They're more nowadays: http://tinyurl.com/3wvus3t
http://tinyurl.com/3l4pwep

Then there's the DEEluxe version: http://tinyurl.com/7cqhwh5
I'd never seen -that- one before.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

Larry Jaques wrote:

Huh? Tablesaw setup? You'd want a DI set up on a miter slot for
that, wouldn't you? Or a height gauge?

I think he (Roland Johnson) pushed the indicator in the miter slot
passed a 90-degree blade to check the horizontal alignment, and passed
it by a tilted (say 45-degree blade) to check vertical alignment. He
said most modern blades are near perfectly flat due to modern
technology. Concerning your comment: Height seems immaterial except
calibrating the height of the adjustor (or if you're checking vertical
alignment that way)?

I think he had a jig he made out of some acrylic sort of stuff. Maybe
most any sled would work if there is a place to hold the indicator base.



I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer
or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected
#4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?

I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. *I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better.

Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make
clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to
never have small edge outs but it can be done.

When I was doing lots of really big edge glued butcher block tops I
would rip all the maple very carefully. The I would only join the
pieces that showed and edge gaps when getting ready for glue up. I got
pretty good after a while.

SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better.

Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make
clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to
never have small edge outs but it can be done.

When I was doing lots of really big edge glued butcher block tops I
would rip all the maple very carefully. The I would only join the
pieces that showed and edge gaps when getting ready for glue up. I got
pretty good after a while.

Here's a theoretical question. : )
Supposed I planned to glue 12-15 8' planks of southern yellow pine
2by-lumber face-to-face to make a bench top. I have 15 pipe clamps.
Should I expect to joint the faces in order to end up with a
decent-looking benchtop?

I'll surely make a mini-version for small table or something, to learn
my lessons on the cheap.

Lew put the idea above for this benchtop in my head a couple years ago
and it's still there. No matter how the table ends up being built, at
least the idea has been there to inspire me while I cut my teeth.

Bill wrote:
SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better.

Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make
clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to
never have small edge outs but it can be done.

When I was doing lots of really big edge glued butcher block tops I
would rip all the maple very carefully. The I would only join the
pieces that showed and edge gaps when getting ready for glue up. I got
pretty good after a while.

Here's a theoretical question. : )
Supposed I planned to glue 12-15 8' planks of southern yellow pine
2by-lumber face-to-face to make a bench top. I have 15 pipe clamps.
Should I expect to joint the faces in order to end up with a
decent-looking benchtop?

My original plan was to put the boards through my planer. But I
understand now why that might not be "good enough". But I suspect it is
if I'm willing to do diligently surface the "top".




I'll surely make a mini-version for small table or something, to learn
my lessons on the cheap.

Lew put the idea above for this benchtop in my head a couple years ago
and it's still there. No matter how the table ends up being built, at
least the idea has been there to inspire me while I cut my teeth.

On 1/23/2012 10:15 PM, Bill wrote:
SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better.

Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make
clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to
never have small edge outs but it can be done.

When I was doing lots of really big edge glued butcher block tops I
would rip all the maple very carefully. The I would only join the
pieces that showed and edge gaps when getting ready for glue up. I got
pretty good after a while.

Here's a theoretical question. : )
Supposed I planned to glue 12-15 8' planks of southern yellow pine 2by-lumber
face-to-face to make a bench top. I have 15 pipe clamps. Should I expect to
joint the faces in order to end up with a decent-looking benchtop?

I'll surely make a mini-version for small table or something, to learn my
lessons on the cheap.

Lew put the idea above for this benchtop in my head a couple years ago and it's
still there. No matter how the table ends up being built, at least the idea has
been there to inspire me while I cut my teeth.

Except for two 8/4 x 3-1/2" pieces of Poplar (Maple probably would have been
better of course) face-glued together along the front side of my workbench
(where the dog-holes are drilled), that's exactly how my workbench is
constructed, and it works fine. Just get some nice straight-grained tubafours,
joint one face and one perpendicular edge, run the opposite face through the
planer, cut some biscuit slots in the faces to help with alignment during
glue-up and you're good to go. I'd make the boards longer than you need so you
can cut the planer snipe off the ends prior to glue-up.

I used 16 yellow pine two-by-fours, which after jointing and planing yields
about 21" of width, along with the two Poplar boards on front for a total of
about 24". As I recall, I glued them up in stages, maybe four at a time, until
I had two slabs of 8 boards each, then I ran each slab through the planer to
get the top and bottom faces relatively true, then glued those two slabs up to
make the final 21" slab. Some minor cleanup with the Bailey No. 7 hand plane
got the top surface true enough for a nice beater workbench.

Obviously not as nice as a full-blown Maple or Beech workbench, but if you're
like me the thing is going to get LOTS of abuse, so other than gaining some
extra durability by using hardwood I don't really see the need. I've beat the
crap out of this thing and it's held up just fine. Oh BTW, I DID make my tail
vise and front vise faces out of Maple though; I don't think Pine would be a
very good choice there.

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...

I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better.

Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make
clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to
never have small edge outs but it can be done.


I agree with this... the only issue being getting the initial straight edge
on the board to run along the fence for subsequent rips. Tacking a straight
edge to the board, perhaps a steel stud, and running it along the fence to
get that initial straight edge is one way to get around the need for a
jointer...

John

On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 19:08:58 -0500, Bill wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Huh? Tablesaw setup? You'd want a DI set up on a miter slot for
that, wouldn't you? Or a height gauge?

I think he (Roland Johnson) pushed the indicator in the miter slot
passed a 90-degree blade to check the horizontal alignment, and passed
it by a tilted (say 45-degree blade) to check vertical alignment. He
said most modern blades are near perfectly flat due to modern
technology. Concerning your comment: Height seems immaterial except
calibrating the height of the adjustor (or if you're checking vertical
alignment that way)?

I was including both the "original saw setup" and "setting blade
height for a specific cut, such as a dado or rabbet" concepts.


I think he had a jig he made out of some acrylic sort of stuff. Maybe
most any sled would work if there is a place to hold the indicator base.

Yuppers.


I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it

Most table saw blades will leave a fine gluable line.


can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer
or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected
#4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?

Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

Larry Jaques wrote:
Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?

Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill.

I was just talking about youse guys. Did I mention I got to meet Tommy
Mac? -- Nice guy; He seems to be trying hard.

On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:32:57 -0500, Bill wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?

Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill.

I was just talking about youse guys. Did I mention I got to meet Tommy
Mac? -- Nice guy; He seems to be trying hard.

Who's Tommy Mac? (Quickly Googlin'...) Oh, I've never seen Rough
Cut. I gave up teevee 5 years ago. Books are much quieter and are
extremely more educational and fun.

--
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson

On 01/23/2012 09:40 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 19:08:58 -0500, wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Huh? Tablesaw setup? You'd want a DI set up on a miter slot for
that, wouldn't you? Or a height gauge?

I think he (Roland Johnson) pushed the indicator in the miter slot
passed a 90-degree blade to check the horizontal alignment, and passed
it by a tilted (say 45-degree blade) to check vertical alignment. He
said most modern blades are near perfectly flat due to modern
technology. Concerning your comment: Height seems immaterial except
calibrating the height of the adjustor (or if you're checking vertical
alignment that way)?

I was including both the "original saw setup" and "setting blade
height for a specific cut, such as a dado or rabbet" concepts.


I think he had a jig he made out of some acrylic sort of stuff. Maybe
most any sled would work if there is a place to hold the indicator base.

Yuppers.


I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it

Most table saw blades will leave a fine gluable line.


can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer
or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected
#4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?

Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill.

Prolly ??? ;-)


--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807



--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 1/23/2012 6:08 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:


I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer or
I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected #4-5-6-7-8
and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out there making
furniture with no power jointer?


If a TS is set up properly with a good blade it can produce a smoother
edge than the typical jointer.

If you go by the rules the jointer is used on only two surfaces, to
straighten the edge and flatten the face. The opposite edge is
straightened by thee TS. The opposite surface is flattened by a planer.

Back the edge that a TS cuts, I seldom have to even sand the edge even
if it is exposed.

Leon wrote:

If a TS is set up properly with a good blade it can produce a smoother
edge than the typical jointer.

If you go by the rules the jointer is used on only two surfaces, to
straighten the edge and flatten the face. The opposite edge is
straightened by thee TS. The opposite surface is flattened by a planer.

Thank you for the reminder: That makes perfect sense. It wasn't always
that way! ; )




Back the edge that a TS cuts, I seldom have to even sand the edge even
if it is exposed.

On 1/24/2012 6:05 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:

If a TS is set up properly with a good blade it can produce a smoother
edge than the typical jointer.

If you go by the rules the jointer is used on only two surfaces, to
straighten the edge and flatten the face. The opposite edge is
straightened by thee TS. The opposite surface is flattened by a planer.

Thank you for the reminder: That makes perfect sense. It wasn't always
that way! ; )



I can't say. It was not always that way for me until I started buying
quality blades.

I recall in shop class in 1968 you would receive 3 licks if caught using
the jointer to surface more one edge and one side or to clean up a an
edge after going through the TS. ;~)

Maybe that was what those hand planes were for. ;~)

On Jan 23, 7:08*pm, Bill wrote:

I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. *I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. * Either I get a jointer
or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected
#4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). *Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?

Systimatic ATBR 50 tooth blade does fine. For more critical
luthiery work, I'll touch up the joints with a #5 or an LN block.
Haven't seen a jointer yet that can produce as smooth or
as flat a surface.

Father Haskell wrote:
On Jan 23, 7:08 pm, wrote:

I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer
or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected
#4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?

Systimatic ATBR 50 tooth blade does fine. For more critical
luthiery work, I'll touch up the joints with a #5 or an LN block.
Haven't seen a jointer yet that can produce as smooth or
as flat a surface.



Thanks for starting me on a saw blade/tooth lesson. I never did figure
out what ATBR stands for, for I learned it should produce good on
crosscut-miter cuts. Does this apply to ripping too? I know ripping and
crosscut saws are completely different.

Bill wrote:
Father Haskell wrote:
On Jan 23, 7:08 pm, wrote:

I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer
or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected
#4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?

Systimatic ATBR 50 tooth blade does fine. For more critical
luthiery work, I'll touch up the joints with a #5 or an LN block.
Haven't seen a jointer yet that can produce as smooth or
as flat a surface.



Thanks for starting me on a saw blade/tooth lesson. I never did figure
out what ATBR stands for, but I learned it should produce good on
crosscut-miter cuts. Does this apply to ripping too? I know ripping and
crosscut saws are completely different.

I should have wrote I know ripping and crosscut *blades* are different.
And I know they have combination blades. Roland Johnson of FWW said, at
the WoodworkingShows, that one should never use those. : )
My concern is academic, since I'm going to get my planes in shape, but
I'm still interested in learning what I can about blades.

"Bill" wrote in message ...

Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?
==============================================

Yep.

On 1/23/2012 6:08 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
Anyone out there making
furniture with no power jointer?

Yes, I had a jointer for years. I actually used it to take up space and
collect dust. I got rid of it a few years ago and have not missed it at
all.

Now if I were buying a lot of rough cut lumber I would want it back but
S2S lumber for me is just not expensive enough for me to want to go back
to using a jointer and buying rough cut. I do however straighten S2S
lumber with my track saw.

Leon wrote:
On 1/23/2012 6:08 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
Anyone out there making
furniture with no power jointer?

Yes, I had a jointer for years. I actually used it to take up space and
collect dust. I got rid of it a few years ago and have not missed it at
all.

Now if I were buying a lot of rough cut lumber I would want it back but
S2S lumber for me is just not expensive enough for me to want to go back
to using a jointer and buying rough cut. I do however straighten S2S
lumber with my track saw.

I like your technique of "jointing" the edges with a track or table saw.

But if you were to set a couple of your new S2S boards side-by-side, it
would not make for a flat surface, would it (just asking)?

On 1/29/2012 3:20 PM, Bill wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 1/23/2012 6:08 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote:
Anyone out there making
furniture with no power jointer?

Yes, I had a jointer for years. I actually used it to take up space and
collect dust. I got rid of it a few years ago and have not missed it at
all.

Now if I were buying a lot of rough cut lumber I would want it back but
S2S lumber for me is just not expensive enough for me to want to go back
to using a jointer and buying rough cut. I do however straighten S2S
lumber with my track saw.

I like your technique of "jointing" the edges with a track or table saw.

But if you were to set a couple of your new S2S boards side-by-side, it
would not make for a flat surface, would it (just asking)?


Yes they would. S2S boards have the top and bottom surfaces planed
flat. There will be exceptions just like with some S4S which may no
longer be flat or straight. For the most part S2S will be consistent
thickness but will be thinker that the size that it is sold as. Most
often 4/4 S2S is 13/16" thick at my supplier so I plane it to the
desired thickness, usually 3/4".

Keep in mind it is more difficult to straighten an edge on a TS unless
you use a sled, which I used to do. The rip fence is not long enough to
address keeping the stock going in a straight line for longer boards.
The track saw works much better in this case.

On Jan 22, 11:06*pm, Bill wrote:
I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. *Roland Johnson, from FWW,
was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular)
for doing TS set-up. *I would like to use it to measure run-out too.
Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. *I saw this one at Grizzly:

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849

Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and
several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking
at them, they look like they have come from the same source. *Lots of
reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped
and fall apart.

At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return
it if it falls apart in 30 days.

Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)?

Bill

I have owned that Grizzly set for about ten years and it is fine. I
too bought mine for table saw setup but it gets used for lots of other
things too. When I had to tear down my thickness planer a couple of
years ago it made table adjustment easy.

Ron

Don't buy the cheap one....

Get a real tool for setups:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm

I have had one for several years and it
can not be surpassed for power tool setup.




On 1/22/2012 9:06 PM, Bill wrote:
I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. Roland Johnson, from FWW,
was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular)
for doing TS set-up. I would like to use it to measure run-out too.
Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. I saw this one at Grizzly:

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849

Pat Barber wrote in
:

Don't buy the cheap one....

Get a real tool for setups:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm

I have had one for several years and it
can not be surpassed for power tool setup.




Good luck with that... http://www.ts-aligner.com/reseller.asp

I bought one a couple of years ago and damn near never got it.
The excuse was that with the economic downturn he didn't have
enough money and had to purchase supplies before he could
machine them. I gave him 30 days and then disputed the billing
on my credit card hence his new policy.

Note that I was billed and waited 30 days, not ordered and
billed when shipped. Had it been the latter I could live with
it.

All that said, it is a quality piece but there are others out
there. Most would never use all of the features that this tool
offers. If I had to do it again I would probably just build one
and buy a good indicator.

I bought mine from Woodworkers Supply and got it
the next day. I understand he ran into problems
getting materials($$$) and since he was trying to
run this as a "part time" business, I think he bit
off a little more than he could provide.

It's a great device and I have read from many others
that they loved it also.

He explains the process he http://www.ts-aligner.com/reseller.asp

On 1/24/2012 11:16 AM, Larry wrote:

Good luck with that... http://www.ts-aligner.com/reseller.asp

I bought one a couple of years ago and damn near never got it.