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Dial indicator with magnetic base
I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. Roland Johnson, from FWW,
was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular) for doing TS set-up. I would like to use it to measure run-out too. Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. I saw this one at Grizzly: http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849 Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking at them, they look like they have come from the same source. Lots of reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped and fall apart. At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return it if it falls apart in 30 days. Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)? Bill |
Dial indicator with magnetic base
On Jan 23, 12:06*am, Bill wrote:
I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. *Roland Johnson, from FWW, was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular) for doing TS set-up. *I would like to use it to measure run-out too. Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. *I saw this one at Grizzly: http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849 Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking at them, they look like they have come from the same source. *Lots of reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped and fall apart. At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return it if it falls apart in 30 days. Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)? This style base is supposed to be better, arm is supposed to not be as prone to slipping: http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Flexib...lb-Force/G9625 OTOH, what do you want for $20? The dial is plenty useful with other shopmade jigs. Note that the back of the magnetic base sticks as well as the bottom. |
Dial indicator with magnetic base
On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 00:06:48 -0500, Bill wrote:
I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. Roland Johnson, from FWW, was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular) for doing TS set-up. I would like to use it to measure run-out too. Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. I saw this one at Grizzly: Huh? Tablesaw setup? You'd want a DI set up on a miter slot for that, wouldn't you? Or a height gauge? http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849 Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking at them, they look like they have come from the same source. Lots of reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped and fall apart. At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return it if it falls apart in 30 days. Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)? They all seem to work fine, so grab what's closest. Since they measure relative distances, the precision is in the dial indicator and they all can read 0.001" (or 0.01mm) easily enough. I bought the HF components for $5.99 each locally on sale. They're more nowadays: http://tinyurl.com/3wvus3t http://tinyurl.com/3l4pwep Then there's the DEEluxe version: http://tinyurl.com/7cqhwh5 I'd never seen -that- one before. -- I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty. -- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807 |
Dial indicator with magnetic base
On 1/23/2012 12:45 AM, Father Haskell wrote:
On Jan 23, 12:06 am, wrote: I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. Roland Johnson, from FWW, was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular) for doing TS set-up. I would like to use it to measure run-out too. Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. I saw this one at Grizzly: http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849 Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking at them, they look like they have come from the same source. Lots of reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped and fall apart. At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return it if it falls apart in 30 days. Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)? This style base is supposed to be better, arm is supposed to not be as prone to slipping: http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/Flexib...lb-Force/G9625 OTOH, what do you want for $20? This may in fact be a better solution since the other one has issues. This solution appears to be in the $50-60 range when you include a dial indicator and P&H. I can probably budget for that. Perhaps I can recover some of these expenses from my first sale! ; ) Thanks for the suggestion! The dial is plenty useful with other shopmade jigs. Note that the back of the magnetic base sticks as well as the bottom. |
Dial indicator with magnetic base
On Jan 22, 11:06*pm, Bill wrote:
I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. *Roland Johnson, from FWW, was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular) for doing TS set-up. *I would like to use it to measure run-out too. Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. *I saw this one at Grizzly: http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849 Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking at them, they look like they have come from the same source. *Lots of reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped and fall apart. At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return it if it falls apart in 30 days. Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)? Bill I have owned that Grizzly set for about ten years and it is fine. I too bought mine for table saw setup but it gets used for lots of other things too. When I had to tear down my thickness planer a couple of years ago it made table adjustment easy. Ron |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
Larry Jaques wrote:
Huh? Tablesaw setup? You'd want a DI set up on a miter slot for that, wouldn't you? Or a height gauge? I think he (Roland Johnson) pushed the indicator in the miter slot passed a 90-degree blade to check the horizontal alignment, and passed it by a tilted (say 45-degree blade) to check vertical alignment. He said most modern blades are near perfectly flat due to modern technology. Concerning your comment: Height seems immaterial except calibrating the height of the adjustor (or if you're checking vertical alignment that way)? I think he had a jig he made out of some acrylic sort of stuff. Maybe most any sled would work if there is a place to hold the indicator base. I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected #4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. *I think I was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to never have small edge outs but it can be done. When I was doing lots of really big edge glued butcher block tops I would rip all the maple very carefully. The I would only join the pieces that showed and edge gaps when getting ready for glue up. I got pretty good after a while. |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to never have small edge outs but it can be done. When I was doing lots of really big edge glued butcher block tops I would rip all the maple very carefully. The I would only join the pieces that showed and edge gaps when getting ready for glue up. I got pretty good after a while. Here's a theoretical question. : ) Supposed I planned to glue 12-15 8' planks of southern yellow pine 2by-lumber face-to-face to make a bench top. I have 15 pipe clamps. Should I expect to joint the faces in order to end up with a decent-looking benchtop? I'll surely make a mini-version for small table or something, to learn my lessons on the cheap. Lew put the idea above for this benchtop in my head a couple years ago and it's still there. No matter how the table ends up being built, at least the idea has been there to inspire me while I cut my teeth. |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 19:08:58 -0500, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: Huh? Tablesaw setup? You'd want a DI set up on a miter slot for that, wouldn't you? Or a height gauge? I think he (Roland Johnson) pushed the indicator in the miter slot passed a 90-degree blade to check the horizontal alignment, and passed it by a tilted (say 45-degree blade) to check vertical alignment. He said most modern blades are near perfectly flat due to modern technology. Concerning your comment: Height seems immaterial except calibrating the height of the adjustor (or if you're checking vertical alignment that way)? I was including both the "original saw setup" and "setting blade height for a specific cut, such as a dado or rabbet" concepts. I think he had a jig he made out of some acrylic sort of stuff. Maybe most any sled would work if there is a place to hold the indicator base. Yuppers. I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it Most table saw blades will leave a fine gluable line. can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected #4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill. -- I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty. -- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807 |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
Larry Jaques wrote:
Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill. I was just talking about youse guys. Did I mention I got to meet Tommy Mac? -- Nice guy; He seems to be trying hard. |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
Bill wrote:
SonomaProducts.com wrote: I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to never have small edge outs but it can be done. When I was doing lots of really big edge glued butcher block tops I would rip all the maple very carefully. The I would only join the pieces that showed and edge gaps when getting ready for glue up. I got pretty good after a while. Here's a theoretical question. : ) Supposed I planned to glue 12-15 8' planks of southern yellow pine 2by-lumber face-to-face to make a bench top. I have 15 pipe clamps. Should I expect to joint the faces in order to end up with a decent-looking benchtop? My original plan was to put the boards through my planer. But I understand now why that might not be "good enough". But I suspect it is if I'm willing to do diligently surface the "top". I'll surely make a mini-version for small table or something, to learn my lessons on the cheap. Lew put the idea above for this benchtop in my head a couple years ago and it's still there. No matter how the table ends up being built, at least the idea has been there to inspire me while I cut my teeth. |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:32:57 -0500, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill. I was just talking about youse guys. Did I mention I got to meet Tommy Mac? -- Nice guy; He seems to be trying hard. Who's Tommy Mac? (Quickly Googlin'...) Oh, I've never seen Rough Cut. I gave up teevee 5 years ago. Books are much quieter and are extremely more educational and fun. -- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 01/23/2012 09:40 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 23 Jan 2012 19:08:58 -0500, wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: Huh? Tablesaw setup? You'd want a DI set up on a miter slot for that, wouldn't you? Or a height gauge? I think he (Roland Johnson) pushed the indicator in the miter slot passed a 90-degree blade to check the horizontal alignment, and passed it by a tilted (say 45-degree blade) to check vertical alignment. He said most modern blades are near perfectly flat due to modern technology. Concerning your comment: Height seems immaterial except calibrating the height of the adjustor (or if you're checking vertical alignment that way)? I was including both the "original saw setup" and "setting blade height for a specific cut, such as a dado or rabbet" concepts. I think he had a jig he made out of some acrylic sort of stuff. Maybe most any sled would work if there is a place to hold the indicator base. Yuppers. I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it Most table saw blades will leave a fine gluable line. can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected #4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill. Prolly ??? ;-) -- I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty. -- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807 -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" -Winston Churchill |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 7:00 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:32:57 -0500, wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill. Okay, I need to get going on my honing materials (strap/board). I need to hone woodcarving gouges and plane irons. When I went shopping online, I found I didn't understand the terminology (of leather). My uncertainty had to do with whether the leather was of uniform thickness or not. I would think leather between 1/8" and 3/16" thick seems right, because of my presumption that if it is too thick, there is greater risk of accidentally rounding the edge. Can anyone recommend a suitable leather source/product for this purpose (cows excluded)? Bill |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 6:00 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
I gave up teevee 5 years ago. Books are much quieter and are extremely more educational and fun. And most authors who write woodworking books have been woodworking for more than five or six years ... -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/23/2012 11:52 PM, Bill wrote:
.... Here's a theoretical question. : ) Supposed I planned to glue 12-15 8' planks of southern yellow pine 2by-lumber face-to-face to make a bench top. I have 15 pipe clamps. Should I expect to joint the faces in order to end up with a decent-looking benchtop? My original plan was to put the boards through my planer. But I understand now why that might not be "good enough". But I suspect it is if I'm willing to do diligently surface the "top". .... If you are careful to select stock w/o much wind or any short bends and glue up in sections should work perfectly well for the purpose. I'd glue up sections that could still get thru the planer (or find someone w/ a large thickness sander) to clean up the tops before the final glueup. -- |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 10:43 AM, dpb wrote:
On 1/23/2012 11:52 PM, Bill wrote: ... Here's a theoretical question. : ) Supposed I planned to glue 12-15 8' planks of southern yellow pine 2by-lumber face-to-face to make a bench top. I have 15 pipe clamps. Should I expect to joint the faces in order to end up with a decent-looking benchtop? My original plan was to put the boards through my planer. But I understand now why that might not be "good enough". But I suspect it is if I'm willing to do diligently surface the "top". ... If you are careful to select stock w/o much wind or any short bends and glue up in sections should work perfectly well for the purpose. I'd glue up sections that could still get thru the planer (or find someone w/ a large thickness sander) to clean up the tops before the final glueup. -- Thank you rpb, that sounds like a good suggestion. Gluing top side down, say on level piece of hardboard, might possibly help too. I just "know" the wood is not going to cooperate with me on this! ; ) |
Dial indicator with magnetic base
Don't buy the cheap one....
Get a real tool for setups: http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm I have had one for several years and it can not be surpassed for power tool setup. On 1/22/2012 9:06 PM, Bill wrote: I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. Roland Johnson, from FWW, was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular) for doing TS set-up. I would like to use it to measure run-out too. Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. I saw this one at Grizzly: http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/G9849 |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 10:19 AM, Bill wrote:
Thank you rpb, that sounds like a good suggestion. Gluing top side down, say on level piece of hardboard, might possibly help too. I just "know" the wood is not going to cooperate with me on this! ; ) Go to: http://e-woodshop.net/Projects5.htm .... and scroll most of the way down the page to the date 3/20-25/04 to get one idea on how to do an extra wide panel glue-ups. Note: jointing the edges of couple of 2 x 4's, and attaching them, jointed side up, to a flat surface; then using the jointed surface of the 2x 4's to support the glue-up, serves a dual purpose ... in both helping to keep things flat, and allowing you to alternate clamping pressure from top and underneath so that all your clamping force is not across one surface: http://e-woodshop.net/images/Trestle%20Table8.jpg -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 11:33 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/24/2012 10:19 AM, Bill wrote: Thank you rpb, that sounds like a good suggestion. Gluing top side down, say on level piece of hardboard, might possibly help too. I just "know" the wood is not going to cooperate with me on this! ; ) Go to: http://e-woodshop.net/Projects5.htm ... and scroll most of the way down the page to the date 3/20-25/04 to get one idea on how to do an extra wide panel glue-ups. Note: jointing the edges of couple of 2 x 4's, and attaching them, jointed side up, to a flat surface; then using the jointed surface of the 2x 4's to support the glue-up, serves a dual purpose ... in both helping to keep things flat, and allowing you to alternate clamping pressure from top and underneath so that all your clamping force is not across one surface: http://e-woodshop.net/images/Trestle%20Table8.jpg Some nice ideas there, Swing. Thank you. Your use of biscuits was a nice way to get the results you wanted. I'm unprepared to make those, but I could substitute threaded-rod (s) though the wood. Either method could backfire I suppose if one is fighting tension in the wood. But the jointing your did and your use of use quarter-sawn materials almost eliminates all possible worries! : ) |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/23/2012 10:15 PM, Bill wrote:
SonomaProducts.com wrote: I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to never have small edge outs but it can be done. When I was doing lots of really big edge glued butcher block tops I would rip all the maple very carefully. The I would only join the pieces that showed and edge gaps when getting ready for glue up. I got pretty good after a while. Here's a theoretical question. : ) Supposed I planned to glue 12-15 8' planks of southern yellow pine 2by-lumber face-to-face to make a bench top. I have 15 pipe clamps. Should I expect to joint the faces in order to end up with a decent-looking benchtop? I'll surely make a mini-version for small table or something, to learn my lessons on the cheap. Lew put the idea above for this benchtop in my head a couple years ago and it's still there. No matter how the table ends up being built, at least the idea has been there to inspire me while I cut my teeth. Except for two 8/4 x 3-1/2" pieces of Poplar (Maple probably would have been better of course) face-glued together along the front side of my workbench (where the dog-holes are drilled), that's exactly how my workbench is constructed, and it works fine. Just get some nice straight-grained tubafours, joint one face and one perpendicular edge, run the opposite face through the planer, cut some biscuit slots in the faces to help with alignment during glue-up and you're good to go. I'd make the boards longer than you need so you can cut the planer snipe off the ends prior to glue-up. I used 16 yellow pine two-by-fours, which after jointing and planing yields about 21" of width, along with the two Poplar boards on front for a total of about 24". As I recall, I glued them up in stages, maybe four at a time, until I had two slabs of 8 boards each, then I ran each slab through the planer to get the top and bottom faces relatively true, then glued those two slabs up to make the final 21" slab. Some minor cleanup with the Bailey No. 7 hand plane got the top surface true enough for a nice beater workbench. Obviously not as nice as a full-blown Maple or Beech workbench, but if you're like me the thing is going to get LOTS of abuse, so other than gaining some extra durability by using hardwood I don't really see the need. I've beat the crap out of this thing and it's held up just fine. Oh BTW, I DID make my tail vise and front vise faces out of Maple though; I don't think Pine would be a very good choice there. -- Free bad advice available here. To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 12:20 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
Except for two 8/4 x 3-1/2" pieces of Poplar (Maple probably would have been better of course) face-glued together along the front side of my workbench (where the dog-holes are drilled), that's exactly how my workbench is constructed, and it works fine. ship Thanks for sharing your experience! The Poplar or Maple trim is a nice idea. I was intending to use breadboard ends as well. I was wondering how the dog-holes would wear in "soft" wood. Does your workbench have any? Bill |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 11:18 AM, Bill wrote:
.... Some nice ideas there, Swing. Thank you. Your use of biscuits was a nice way to get the results you wanted.... Always w/ the swingman... :) I'm partial to either routing or using the shaper and the glue joint cutter or a tapered wedge for the alignment on larger stuff--then one doesn't have to worry about trying to align the individual biscuits one to another--there's a guide along the whole edge. And, as a side benefit, there's the additional glue surface area (not that it really will need it, but still...). -- |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 12:28 PM, dpb wrote:
.... I'm partial to either routing or using the shaper and the glue joint cutter or a tapered wedge for the alignment on larger stuff--... Just in case not familiar... http://www.amanatool.com/shaper/903.html http://www.amanatool.com/shaper/911.html -- |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 11:57 AM, Bill wrote:
On 1/24/2012 12:20 PM, Steve Turner wrote: Except for two 8/4 x 3-1/2" pieces of Poplar (Maple probably would have been better of course) face-glued together along the front side of my workbench (where the dog-holes are drilled), that's exactly how my workbench is constructed, and it works fine. ship Thanks for sharing your experience! The Poplar or Maple trim is a nice idea. I was intending to use breadboard ends as well. I was wondering how the dog-holes would wear in "soft" wood. Does your workbench have any? Bill Yes, that's the reason I mentioned that it probably would have been a better idea to use Maple instead of Poplar for the section along the front where the dog holes are drilled. Poplar is quite soft for a "hard" wood, and the metal springs in my Veritas bench dogs (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...27&cat=1,41637) have worn grooves into the wood over time that makes it difficult to turn them to some other orientation other than 90 degrees from the front of the bench (one of the main advantages to having round vs. square dog holes; but I don't want to start a war on that!). Maybe not a problem if you only plan to clamp squared lumber to your bench, but I build lots of goofy things like rocking chairs so I sometimes need to turn the bench dogs away from 90 degrees. I also put breadboard ends on my bench, and I made those of Poplar too. No issues there. -- Free bad advice available here. To reply, eat the taco. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/ |
Dial indicator with magnetic base
Pat Barber wrote in
: Don't buy the cheap one.... Get a real tool for setups: http://www.ts-aligner.com/tsalignerjr.htm I have had one for several years and it can not be surpassed for power tool setup. Good luck with that... http://www.ts-aligner.com/reseller.asp I bought one a couple of years ago and damn near never got it. The excuse was that with the economic downturn he didn't have enough money and had to purchase supplies before he could machine them. I gave him 30 days and then disputed the billing on my credit card hence his new policy. Note that I was billed and waited 30 days, not ordered and billed when shipped. Had it been the latter I could live with it. All that said, it is a quality piece but there are others out there. Most would never use all of the features that this tool offers. If I had to do it again I would probably just build one and buy a good indicator. |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 1:38 PM, dpb wrote:
On 1/24/2012 12:28 PM, dpb wrote: ... I'm partial to either routing or using the shaper and the glue joint cutter or a tapered wedge for the alignment on larger stuff--... Just in case not familiar... http://www.amanatool.com/shaper/903.html http://www.amanatool.com/shaper/911.html -- Nice idea! |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message ... I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to never have small edge outs but it can be done. I agree with this... the only issue being getting the initial straight edge on the board to run along the fence for subsequent rips. Tacking a straight edge to the board, perhaps a steel stud, and running it along the fence to get that initial straight edge is one way to get around the need for a jointer... John |
Dial indicator with magnetic base
I bought mine from Woodworkers Supply and got it
the next day. I understand he ran into problems getting materials($$$) and since he was trying to run this as a "part time" business, I think he bit off a little more than he could provide. It's a great device and I have read from many others that they loved it also. He explains the process he http://www.ts-aligner.com/reseller.asp On 1/24/2012 11:16 AM, Larry wrote: Good luck with that... http://www.ts-aligner.com/reseller.asp I bought one a couple of years ago and damn near never got it. |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/23/2012 6:08 PM, Bill wrote:
Larry Jaques wrote: I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected #4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? If a TS is set up properly with a good blade it can produce a smoother edge than the typical jointer. If you go by the rules the jointer is used on only two surfaces, to straighten the edge and flatten the face. The opposite edge is straightened by thee TS. The opposite surface is flattened by a planer. Back the edge that a TS cuts, I seldom have to even sand the edge even if it is exposed. |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 6:00 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:32:57 -0500, wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill. I was just talking about youse guys. Did I mention I got to meet Tommy Mac? -- Nice guy; He seems to be trying hard. Who's Tommy Mac? (Quickly Googlin'...) Oh, I've never seen Rough Cut. I gave up teevee 5 years ago. Books are much quieter and are extremely more educational and fun. Tommy Mac.... you have to understand Juersey to understand a word he says. ;~) I have to listen to him TWO Times |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 10:33:09 -0600, Swingman wrote:
On 1/24/2012 10:19 AM, Bill wrote: Thank you rpb, that sounds like a good suggestion. Gluing top side down, say on level piece of hardboard, might possibly help too. I just "know" the wood is not going to cooperate with me on this! ; ) Go to: http://e-woodshop.net/Projects5.htm ... and scroll most of the way down the page to the date 3/20-25/04 to get one idea on how to do an extra wide panel glue-ups. Note: jointing the edges of couple of 2 x 4's, and attaching them, jointed side up, to a flat surface; then using the jointed surface of the 2x 4's to support the glue-up, serves a dual purpose ... in both helping to keep things flat, and allowing you to alternate clamping pressure from top and underneath so that all your clamping force is not across one surface: Bueno, bwana. http://e-woodshop.net/images/Trestle%20Table8.jpg Jeeze, Swingy. Couldn't you have taken care to match board lengths a bit better. silly grinne -- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 10:33 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 1/24/2012 10:19 AM, Bill wrote: Thank you rpb, that sounds like a good suggestion. Gluing top side down, say on level piece of hardboard, might possibly help too. I just "know" the wood is not going to cooperate with me on this! ; ) Go to: http://e-woodshop.net/Projects5.htm ... and scroll most of the way down the page to the date 3/20-25/04 to get one idea on how to do an extra wide panel glue-ups. Note: jointing the edges of couple of 2 x 4's, and attaching them, jointed side up, to a flat surface; then using the jointed surface of the 2x 4's to support the glue-up, serves a dual purpose ... in both helping to keep things flat, and allowing you to alternate clamping pressure from top and underneath so that all your clamping force is not across one surface: http://e-woodshop.net/images/Trestle%20Table8.jpg WOW! I looked at that picture and just realized what all those 130 year old OAK floor joists i tore out of my house are going to become. -- Steve Barker remove the "not" from my address to email |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On 1/24/2012 3:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
http://e-woodshop.net/images/Trestle%20Table8.jpg Jeeze, Swingy. Couldn't you have taken care to match board lengths a bit better.silly grinne LOL Method to Madness: There's a considerable amount of money tied up in that table top of 8/4 QSWO. Therefore the longest board of each sub-component's separate pass through the planer gets any snipe, and well into the cutoff zone. :) -- www.eWoodShop.com Last update: 4/15/2010 KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious) http://gplus.to/eWoodShop |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
In article
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet writes: Tommy Mac.... you have to understand Juersey to understand a word he says. ;~) Strangest spelling I've ever seen for "Massachusetts." http://www.thomasjmacdonald.com/abouttommy.php -- Drew Lawson So risk all or don't risk anything You can lose all the same |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 08:55:52 -0500, Bill
wrote: On 1/24/2012 7:00 AM, Larry Jaques wrote: On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:32:57 -0500, wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill. Okay, I need to get going on my honing materials (strap/board). I need to hone woodcarving gouges and plane irons. When I went shopping online, I found I didn't understand the terminology (of leather). My uncertainty had to do with whether the leather was of uniform thickness or not. I would think leather between 1/8" and 3/16" thick seems right, because of my presumption that if it is too thick, there is greater risk of accidentally rounding the edge. Worry wart. Can anyone recommend a suitable leather source/product for this purpose (cows excluded)? Tanned, 1" or wider is what I used. I think it was 10oz. 4-5mm or 3/16". http://tinyurl.com/7oabn8y I had bought scraps (5# for $5) from a carriage, chest, and harnessmaker back on the East coast. Glue the rough side down, smear some green on 'er, and hone away! I think mine's about 1-1/2" wide by 15" long on a piece of baltic birch plywood. -- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 09:36:43 -0600, Swingman wrote:
On 1/24/2012 6:00 AM, Larry Jaques wrote: I gave up teevee 5 years ago. Books are much quieter and are extremely more educational and fun. And most authors who write woodworking books have been woodworking for more than five or six years ... ? But not all authors put out good books, nor does it take 5 or 6 years to write a book, either good or bad. -- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 15:28:55 -0600, Swingman wrote:
On 1/24/2012 3:14 PM, Larry Jaques wrote: http://e-woodshop.net/images/Trestle%20Table8.jpg Jeeze, Swingy. Couldn't you have taken care to match board lengths a bit better.silly grinne LOL Method to Madness: There's a considerable amount of money tied up in that table top of 8/4 QSWO. She's a beaut. Kudos, BTW. Therefore the longest board of each sub-component's separate pass through the planer gets any snipe, and well into the cutoff zone. :) Smart man. -- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
Leon wrote:
If a TS is set up properly with a good blade it can produce a smoother edge than the typical jointer. If you go by the rules the jointer is used on only two surfaces, to straighten the edge and flatten the face. The opposite edge is straightened by thee TS. The opposite surface is flattened by a planer. Thank you for the reminder: That makes perfect sense. It wasn't always that way! ; ) Back the edge that a TS cuts, I seldom have to even sand the edge even if it is exposed. |
Was Dial indicator--now jointer
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 08:55:52 -0500, wrote: On 1/24/2012 7:00 AM, Larry Jaques wrote: On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:32:57 -0500, wrote: Larry Jaques wrote: Anyone out there making furniture with no power jointer? Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill. Okay, I need to get going on my honing materials (strap/board). I need to hone woodcarving gouges and plane irons. When I went shopping online, I found I didn't understand the terminology (of leather). My uncertainty had to do with whether the leather was of uniform thickness or not. I would think leather between 1/8" and 3/16" thick seems right, because of my presumption that if it is too thick, there is greater risk of accidentally rounding the edge. Worry wart. Can anyone recommend a suitable leather source/product for this purpose (cows excluded)? Tanned, 1" or wider is what I used. I think it was 10oz. 4-5mm or 3/16". http://tinyurl.com/7oabn8y I had bought scraps (5# for $5) from a carriage, chest, and harnessmaker back on the East coast. Glue the rough side down, smear some green on 'er, and hone away! I think mine's about 1-1/2" wide by 15" long on a piece of baltic birch plywood. Larry, Thanks for the suggestion/link. The vegetable-tanned leather doesn't sound like the right stuff, so I'm going try my old belt which is a full 1/8" thick (too) and convenient. Hopefully, the embossing won't be an issue. - W.W. As always, thank you for your support! |
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