On 1/20/2012 7:14 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2012 10:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2012 03:36:25 +0000 (UTC), (Edward A.
Falk) wrote:

In
,

wrote:

Or -- has square drive just become obsolete? Do I need to get out
more?

Au contraire; square drive is the future, IMHO.

Fun trivia fact: the Phillips head is *designed* to cam out when you
tighten them. It's to keep you from over-torquing them.

I'd like someone to come up with a CREDIBLE cite on that.
It appears to fall into the "urban legend" realm.



http://www.marfas.com/phillips.shtml


The designed to cam out is also the reason that Philips head dry wall
screws are manufactured this way.

Leon wrote:
On 1/19/2012 11:17 PM, PV wrote:
wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 19:42:34 -0500,
wrote:

John Grossbohlin wrote the following:

wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 9:25 am, wrote:
My old HD used to carry a drywall sort of screw that had the
square drive. No longer.

HD and Lowes carry deck screws with star heads. HD has them at
one extreme end of the screw area and Lowes usually has them in
their own space somewhere near the nails. Each box comes with
the start driver (a tiny one) and for some reason they have a
few different sizes which can be a hassle. I have an Itsy setup
from Rockler that has all the drivers I could want so I am
usually good.

Do you mean Torx head screws?


They're not Torx. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx
Square bits are square
http://www.wihatools.com/700seri/718serie.htm They are what I use for
deck screws...
far superior to Phillips in that they don't strip out easily even
if you don't get the bit fully seated.

John


The are, officially, called ROBERTSON socket drive screws, or
SCRULOX. It was invented in Canada - so, Americans being as
xenophobic as they have been over the decades, it never really took
hold in the USA.

Mr Robertson refused to license his invention, he feared someone
stealing the design. The screws and screwdrivers were only
manufactured and sold in Canada for this reason. This is why they
never took hold in the States.

That is probably close but in reality I suspect that Mr. Robertson
could not prevent any one from stealing the design, a license would
not increase the chance or prevent some one from stealing a design.

As I understood it he introduced the design to Ford when Ford was
looking for a better screw. Ford wanted to make a one time payment
for the rights to make the screws himself, Robertson refused, I
suspect he wanted to make and get paid for every screw. As it turned
out Ford ended up with the Philips style screw which in hind sight
was a better screw for mass production assembly.


I shipped a wood crate to head office in Texas, the lid was secured
with Robertson screws. Told them the screwdriver was inside


I suspect we would use out stolen design screw driver to remove the
Robertson screws.

Maybe now :-)

Back then they were clueless....and screw(driver) less

--
PV

"This sig left intentionally blank"

On 1/18/2012 6:27 AM, Leon wrote:
On 1/17/2012 9:06 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 20:46:16 -0500, wrote:

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 17:04:54 -0500, wrote:

Canadians have known that for over 50 years - "robertson" screws are
VERY common up here. Used to be they were all Canadian made quality
stuff, now much of it is the same cheap Chinese CRAP you guys get
south of the lakes.

Naturally we've know that because Robertson was Canadian. One of the
advantages of Robertson screws is that the square drive gives extra
holding power which permits more torque on the screws. And if you're
adding more torque, then you don't want a cheap version of the screw
that might snap off. ~ Nothing more irritating. That is the biggest
reason to buy better quality when it comes to square drive screws.
The BEAUTY of a robertson screw is you can stick the screw on the
driver - point it vertually ANYWHERE and not worry about loosing the
screw when you try to start it - even into sheet metal or wood with no
pilot hole drilled. Makes it's own awl.

The draw back to the Robertson screw is that you can stick the screw on
the driver and drive the screw into the wood and play hell pulling the
drill and bit off of the screw. Yes this happens more often than I wish
and normally when I am reaching into the back of a cabinet mounting
drawer slides and or supports.



THE ANSWER

Taken from


http://www.instructables.com/id/When.../Square-Drive/

A "fresh" US square drive driver with a "real" Robertson screw head
sticks so tightly that it can take a significant yank to get them
disengaged.

I suspect that because many SD screws are imported from the Asian areas
of the globe that Robertson stylescrews probably are copied and mixed
with Square Drive screws.

Soooo apparently I am wrong about the Robertson being at fault however
the Robertson is part of the resulting problem when the SD drive is used
with a Robertson screw.

On 1/20/2012 7:18 AM, PV wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 1/19/2012 11:17 PM, PV wrote:
wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 19:42:34 -0500,
wrote:

John Grossbohlin wrote the following:

wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 9:25 am, wrote:
My old HD used to carry a drywall sort of screw that had the
square drive. No longer.

HD and Lowes carry deck screws with star heads. HD has them at
one extreme end of the screw area and Lowes usually has them in
their own space somewhere near the nails. Each box comes with
the start driver (a tiny one) and for some reason they have a
few different sizes which can be a hassle. I have an Itsy setup
from Rockler that has all the drivers I could want so I am
usually good.

Do you mean Torx head screws?


They're not Torx. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx
Square bits are square
http://www.wihatools.com/700seri/718serie.htm They are what I use for
deck screws...
far superior to Phillips in that they don't strip out easily even
if you don't get the bit fully seated.

John


The are, officially, called ROBERTSON socket drive screws, or
SCRULOX. It was invented in Canada - so, Americans being as
xenophobic as they have been over the decades, it never really took
hold in the USA.

Mr Robertson refused to license his invention, he feared someone
stealing the design. The screws and screwdrivers were only
manufactured and sold in Canada for this reason. This is why they
never took hold in the States.

That is probably close but in reality I suspect that Mr. Robertson
could not prevent any one from stealing the design, a license would
not increase the chance or prevent some one from stealing a design.

As I understood it he introduced the design to Ford when Ford was
looking for a better screw. Ford wanted to make a one time payment
for the rights to make the screws himself, Robertson refused, I
suspect he wanted to make and get paid for every screw. As it turned
out Ford ended up with the Philips style screw which in hind sight
was a better screw for mass production assembly.


I shipped a wood crate to head office in Texas, the lid was secured
with Robertson screws. Told them the screwdriver was inside


I suspect we would use out stolen design screw driver to remove the
Robertson screws.

Maybe now :-)

Back then they were clueless....and screw(driver) less

Yeah! LOL

Interesting fact I learned about the Philips Robertson Ford story,
Cadillac was the first to use the Philips head screw in mass production
of American automobiles. Ford apparently followed along as most of the
industry had switched by 1940. The Philips was developed in 1936, the
Robertson in 1907.

http://www.marfas.com/phillips.shtml

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 06:42:36 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2012 9:02 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:

"Nothing" separates. I often have to screw the removed screw into a
scrap of wood to be able to have enough grip to separate it from the
driver bit. I have no problems with the driver bit coming off of the
drill.

I guess we Left Coasters just think a little bit differently than you
Texicans, Leon.

So, do you need to buy better bits which don't stick as badly, or do
you need to buy cheaper bits which don't stick as badly? Pick one.


Yes! That is a definite maybe. HUH? ;~)

I've found that some things are made so perfectly that they mate too
well, so going to a different manufacturer or different grade makes
just enough difference to keep it from happening.


Many years ago I used to show friends how well the SD screws stuck to
the driver bit totally unlike a Philips head screw. Almost every time I
am on my hands and knees inside a kitchen cabinet repairing or
installing brackets for drawer slides the screw sticks in the driver,
and I think to myself, what a wonderful world.. ER uh I wish these
screws did not to this. LOL

If you're -that- upset, go back to using a magnetized bit and phillips
screws, Leon.

P.S: Why don't you install dem glides while de top is still off the
unit, so you have some room, boy?

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 06:46:07 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2012 9:04 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:



Let me explain it this way, imagine putting a drop of super glue in the
head of the screw and letting it cure with the bit inserted. It is that
tight of a fit. Pulling on the drill and bit does not separate
anything. Working the drill and bit back and forth 2~3 seconds finally
works the bit free of the screw. AND that is easier when driving
screws. Removing screws is a bigger problem.

Buy harder screws which don't tend to stick to the bit?



Well I think I am buying pretty hard screws, they seem to never misform
and I almost exclusively use McFeeleys and Kreg screws. I don't want
screws crapping out on me.

Have you ever had a drawer glide screw "crap out on you"?
How dey do dat?


On another note and response I mentioned that it may be the heat
generated that causes the screw to tighten up on the driver.

Which begs for a cheaper driver, which doesn't have the tight
tolerances kept by the screw mfgr or the good bit mfgr. There will be
no interference fit between the two.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 07:14:48 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2012 10:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2012 03:36:25 +0000 (UTC), (Edward A.
Falk) wrote:

In ,
wrote:

Or -- has square drive just become obsolete? Do I need to get out
more?

Au contraire; square drive is the future, IMHO.

Fun trivia fact: the Phillips head is *designed* to cam out when you
tighten them. It's to keep you from over-torquing them.

I'd like someone to come up with a CREDIBLE cite on that.
It appears to fall into the "urban legend" realm.

http://www.marfas.com/phillips.shtml

I'm with clare. I think the torque camout is a result of marketing
spin rather than design. When you spin it in and hit "tight", torque
causes a cross axial movement of the screwdriver, hence the "design
feature" camout. Tool user failure, not the design, is the key.

I dare someone to set up a real torque test of phillips screws and try
to prove design on this.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 06:18:55 -0700, "PV" edrnouser@ spam telus.net
wrote:

Leon wrote:
On 1/19/2012 11:17 PM, PV wrote:
wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 19:42:34 -0500,
wrote:

John Grossbohlin wrote the following:

wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 9:25 am, wrote:
My old HD used to carry a drywall sort of screw that had the
square drive. No longer.

HD and Lowes carry deck screws with star heads. HD has them at
one extreme end of the screw area and Lowes usually has them in
their own space somewhere near the nails. Each box comes with
the start driver (a tiny one) and for some reason they have a
few different sizes which can be a hassle. I have an Itsy setup
from Rockler that has all the drivers I could want so I am
usually good.

Do you mean Torx head screws?


They're not Torx. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx
Square bits are square
http://www.wihatools.com/700seri/718serie.htm They are what I use for
deck screws...
far superior to Phillips in that they don't strip out easily even
if you don't get the bit fully seated.

John


The are, officially, called ROBERTSON socket drive screws, or
SCRULOX. It was invented in Canada - so, Americans being as
xenophobic as they have been over the decades, it never really took
hold in the USA.

Mr Robertson refused to license his invention, he feared someone
stealing the design. The screws and screwdrivers were only
manufactured and sold in Canada for this reason. This is why they
never took hold in the States.

That is probably close but in reality I suspect that Mr. Robertson
could not prevent any one from stealing the design, a license would
not increase the chance or prevent some one from stealing a design.

As I understood it he introduced the design to Ford when Ford was
looking for a better screw. Ford wanted to make a one time payment
for the rights to make the screws himself, Robertson refused, I
suspect he wanted to make and get paid for every screw. As it turned
out Ford ended up with the Philips style screw which in hind sight
was a better screw for mass production assembly.


I shipped a wood crate to head office in Texas, the lid was secured
with Robertson screws. Told them the screwdriver was inside

You DOG, you. g


I suspect we would use out stolen design screw driver to remove the
Robertson screws.

Maybe now :-)

Back then they were clueless....and screw(driver) less

I've removed Robertson head screws with my trusty pocket screwdriver
and 4" MAC crescent wrench. The pocket screwdriver was the correct
diagonal width for the square drive pocket.
Similar tools: http://goo.gl/dfbGU and http://goo.gl/G4M9j

As an aside, I ground the crescent's jaw adjuster roller a bit so it
would allow the jaws to open to 9/16" and that made it very, very
handy in tight spots, where rusty or dinged threads made nuts hard to
get off.

These two tools came in handy when I was building computers, too.
Quite the pair!

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

On 1/20/2012 9:33 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 06:42:36 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2012 9:02 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:

"Nothing" separates. I often have to screw the removed screw into a
scrap of wood to be able to have enough grip to separate it from the
driver bit. I have no problems with the driver bit coming off of the
drill.

I guess we Left Coasters just think a little bit differently than you
Texicans, Leon.

So, do you need to buy better bits which don't stick as badly, or do
you need to buy cheaper bits which don't stick as badly? Pick one.


Yes! That is a definite maybe. HUH? ;~)

I've found that some things are made so perfectly that they mate too
well, so going to a different manufacturer or different grade makes
just enough difference to keep it from happening.


Many years ago I used to show friends how well the SD screws stuck to
the driver bit totally unlike a Philips head screw. Almost every time I
am on my hands and knees inside a kitchen cabinet repairing or
installing brackets for drawer slides the screw sticks in the driver,
and I think to myself, what a wonderful world.. ER uh I wish these
screws did not to this. LOL

If you're -that- upset, go back to using a magnetized bit and phillips
screws, Leon.

I hate both. And I have had Phillips stick well enough that the magnet
is not adequate.

Nothing is perfect, square drive and or Robertson is the most convenient.



P.S: Why don't you install dem glides while de top is still off the
unit, so you have some room, boy?

As I mentioned above, repairing slides does not afford the luxury of a
missing counter top.






--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

On 1/20/2012 9:37 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 06:46:07 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2012 9:04 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:



Let me explain it this way, imagine putting a drop of super glue in the
head of the screw and letting it cure with the bit inserted. It is that
tight of a fit. Pulling on the drill and bit does not separate
anything. Working the drill and bit back and forth 2~3 seconds finally
works the bit free of the screw. AND that is easier when driving
screws. Removing screws is a bigger problem.

Buy harder screws which don't tend to stick to the bit?



Well I think I am buying pretty hard screws, they seem to never misform
and I almost exclusively use McFeeleys and Kreg screws. I don't want
screws crapping out on me.

Have you ever had a drawer glide screw "crap out on you"?
How dey do dat?

If you deal with many Philips washer head drawer slide screws you know
that the indentation in the screw head is shallow. This greatly
increases cam out potential and these things tend to be a pretty cheaply
made screw so they the heads strip out or break off pretty easily. When
you are reaching and balancing on your knees a perfect fit between the
bit and the screw are marginal at best.

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 06:53:45 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2012 9:08 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2012 06:35:37 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2012 8:24 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in
:

On Wed, 18 Jan 2012 11:40:11 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet

Basically I can have to wiggle the driver and bit back and forth to work
it loose from the screw. This is a reap PIA when removing several
screws and they will not come loose from the driver bit.

The reason I asked if you were using an impact drill/driver is that
I've heard of some brands of Robertson screws misshapen slightly when
the impact driver is working. It causes the screw to grab tighter to
the bit.


Sometimes if the bit gets stuck in the screw head, all you have to do is
reverse the driver slightly. Usually releases the bit quite effectively.

Puckdropper

Unless you are removing the screw. ;~) This is really a PIA when
removing screws and cannot easily remove them from the bit.

Tap the screw sideways on a piece of scrap or the ground. It'll come
off. Or stick with phillips and/or torx.

Believe it or not I have tried that and that does not always work.
Typically I have to drive the screw into a scrap piece of wood and then
pull on the drill while working it back and forth. It is not an always
thing but it seems to happen when I am inside a cabinet.



I would never suggest that anyone use a flat blade type screwdriver.
AAMOF, I believe they've outlawed them in England now.heh

I never use a flat blade to insert a screw, I only use it to remove a
screw. If the screw needs to be replaced it is with a square drive
screw. Big flat blades drivers make decent pry bars in a pinch though.


Back when the flat screws were very common, one of the guys that
worked for my dad as an electrician used to drive the screws in with a
hammer. He said the head was just to remove the screw.

That is usually the "plumber's screwdriver" joke!

--------
wrote in message ...
Back when the flat screws were very common, one of the guys that
worked for my dad as an electrician used to drive the screws in with a
hammer. He said the head was just to remove the screw.

The US car companies wouldn't accept his tight grasp on the patent and thus
it never flew back in the days when all people ever did with drivers was fix
their cars.

It could have been the other way around and we might have been stuck with
Phillips crap. AT least they changed the drywall screws to Frearsen (sp?).
When I open anything, to assemble, supplied with Philips screws in it I
just throw them out. I hate having to driil that crap out ten years from
now.


-----------------
wrote in message ...
The fact they were only MADE in Canada is only an excuse for them to
not be used in the USA. There are a LOT of things only made in the USA
that are /were extensively used in Canada..

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 10:58:56 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/20/2012 9:33 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 06:42:36 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
Many years ago I used to show friends how well the SD screws stuck to
the driver bit totally unlike a Philips head screw. Almost every time I
am on my hands and knees inside a kitchen cabinet repairing or
installing brackets for drawer slides the screw sticks in the driver,
and I think to myself, what a wonderful world.. ER uh I wish these
screws did not to this. LOL

If you're -that- upset, go back to using a magnetized bit and phillips
screws, Leon.

I hate both. And I have had Phillips stick well enough that the magnet
is not adequate.

Huh? Oh, bit sticks in screw and driver comes away? Yeah, then you
learn that rolling the bit out of each screw can be of service and
make it a habit.


Nothing is perfect, square drive and or Robertson is the most convenient.

Um, so you're bitching about them, WHY?

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 11:03:58 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/20/2012 9:37 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Have you ever had a drawer glide screw "crap out on you"?
How dey do dat?

If you deal with many Philips washer head drawer slide screws you know
that the indentation in the screw head is shallow. This greatly
increases cam out potential and these things tend to be a pretty cheaply
made screw so they the heads strip out or break off pretty easily. When
you are reaching and balancing on your knees a perfect fit between the
bit and the screw are marginal at best.

Heads breaking off and stripping out are usually either A) the result
of an overtorque situation (so set your torque less on the driver) or
B) the wrong bit for the screw or C) a bad angle on the drive. All are
pretty easily corrected. When I see that happening to me, I usually
try to pay a bit more attention to WTF I'm doing.

--
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807

On 1/20/2012 1:00 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 20 Jan 2012 11:03:58 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/20/2012 9:37 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Have you ever had a drawer glide screw "crap out on you"?
How dey do dat?

If you deal with many Philips washer head drawer slide screws you know
that the indentation in the screw head is shallow. This greatly
increases cam out potential and these things tend to be a pretty cheaply
made screw so they the heads strip out or break off pretty easily. When
you are reaching and balancing on your knees a perfect fit between the
bit and the screw are marginal at best.

Heads breaking off and stripping out are usually either A) the result
of an overtorque situation (so set your torque less on the driver) or
B) the wrong bit for the screw or C) a bad angle on the drive. All are
pretty easily corrected. When I see that happening to me, I usually
try to pay a bit more attention to WTF I'm doing.

Clueless?

Yeah I just bought a few 1.5" drawer handle bolts with Phillips heads and
they are pathetic for socket depth. It would seem in an attempt to keep the
head thin they need to sacrifice a lot of depth in the socket.

Meanwhile you are usually putting them in on some odd angle, can't line your
eye up with the screw (inside drawer). The clothes in the drawer are
restricting you arm space and it's dark in the drawer. No wonder most of the
drawer pull screw heads are catch hazards for the wife's satin / lace
panties! hmmmm... maybe that's a distraction too??

--------
"Leon" wrote in message
...
If you deal with many Philips washer head drawer slide screws you know
that the indentation in the screw head is shallow. This greatly
increases cam out potential and these things tend to be a pretty cheaply
made screw so they the heads strip out or break off pretty easily. When
you are reaching and balancing on your knees a perfect fit between the
bit and the screw are marginal at best.

Josepi wrote:


Meanwhile you are usually putting them in on some odd angle, can't
line your eye up with the screw (inside drawer). The clothes in the
drawer are restricting you arm space and it's dark in the drawer. No
wonder most of the drawer pull screw heads are catch hazards for the
wife's satin / lace panties! hmmmm... maybe that's a distraction
too??

Oh no... another thread that gets into the "wife" thing... The wreck is
going to get very interesting over the next couple of days...

--

-Mike-

On 1/17/2012 11:25 AM, woodchuck wrote:
My old HD used to carry a drywall sort of screw that had the square
drive. No longer.

Compared to phillips, the square drive just seems superior to me. Am
I dreaming?

I don't need high quality screws for most of what I do -- and if I do,
I'm fine with getting them.

HD / Lowes now sells a 5# box of phillips drywall screws for around
18. I'm looking for something equivalent but with square drive.

Or -- has square drive just become obsolete? Do I need to get out
more?


Look in your phone book and see if you have a Fastenal store in your
area. Kinda like having a local McFeeleys. Here is a reference:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex

Don't limit yourself to square drive, how about Torx? Stainless?
Silicone bronze?

--


___________________________________

Keep the whole world singing . . .
Dan G
remove the seven

On Sat, 21 Jan 2012 17:13:38 -0600, DanG wrote:

On 1/17/2012 11:25 AM, woodchuck wrote:
My old HD used to carry a drywall sort of screw that had the square
drive. No longer.

Compared to phillips, the square drive just seems superior to me. Am
I dreaming?

I don't need high quality screws for most of what I do -- and if I do,
I'm fine with getting them.

HD / Lowes now sells a 5# box of phillips drywall screws for around
18. I'm looking for something equivalent but with square drive.

Or -- has square drive just become obsolete? Do I need to get out
more?


Look in your phone book and see if you have a Fastenal store in your
area. Kinda like having a local McFeeleys. Here is a reference:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex

Does Fastenal sell to the public? Do they carry any inventory? The local
"stores" aren't all that big.

Don't limit yourself to square drive, how about Torx? Stainless?
Silicone bronze?

On Sat, 21 Jan 2012 19:25:20 -0500, "
wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jan 2012 17:13:38 -0600, DanG wrote:

On 1/17/2012 11:25 AM, woodchuck wrote:
My old HD used to carry a drywall sort of screw that had the square
drive. No longer.

Compared to phillips, the square drive just seems superior to me. Am
I dreaming?

I don't need high quality screws for most of what I do -- and if I do,
I'm fine with getting them.

HD / Lowes now sells a 5# box of phillips drywall screws for around
18. I'm looking for something equivalent but with square drive.

Or -- has square drive just become obsolete? Do I need to get out
more?


Look in your phone book and see if you have a Fastenal store in your
area. Kinda like having a local McFeeleys. Here is a reference:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex

Does Fastenal sell to the public? Do they carry any inventory? The local
"stores" aren't all that big.

Don't limit yourself to square drive, how about Torx? Stainless?
Silicone bronze?
Both in my immediate area sell to anyone with money and carry a god
stock of the commoner stuff - and can order the esoteric stuff for
next day. Also lucky enough to have Spae-Naur/Kemsies virtually in my
back yard - with HUGE inventory of just about any fastener you could
ask for.

More Talk-Stop to come!

You are probably just as much horny pervert (wood type) as I am.
--------

"Mike Marlow" wrote in message
...
Oh no... another thread that gets into the "wife" thing... The wreck is
going to get very interesting over the next couple of days...