I bought the 1HP Porter Cable drill press at Lowes for ~$300. Loving
it.

Can I say I love the laser that throws an X to mark the spot. This is
one gimick worth the time to keep working and calibrated.

Runs pretty smooth (rattles a bit like all non-gear head drill-
presses). Nice belt change setup and tensioner. Includes a light on a
flex arm which is real nice to have and the red laser still shows up
fine.

Did I say I love the X laser?

I only posses one too with a laser cutting line. My slide mitre saw. I
wouldn't be without it, after first use. The drill press sounds like an
awesome thing to have laser, also, but I am not sure about many other tools
benefit from it much. Laser on my hammer would be real nice.

How do they align the laser markings at any height of drill surface. It
would seem to have to shine down the shaft of the drill bit and that doesn't
sound possible?? Smoke and mirrors? Moving mechanism?


--------------
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...

I bought the 1HP Porter Cable drill press at Lowes for ~$300. Loving
it.

Can I say I love the laser that throws an X to mark the spot. This is
one gimick worth the time to keep working and calibrated.

Runs pretty smooth (rattles a bit like all non-gear head drill-
presses). Nice belt change setup and tensioner. Includes a light on a
flex arm which is real nice to have and the red laser still shows up
fine.

Did I say I love the X laser?

How do they align the laser markings at any height of drill surface. It
would seem to have to shine down the shaft of the drill bit and that doesn't
sound possible?? *Smoke and mirrors? *Moving mechanism?


Haven't really even looked at the optics but somehow they cast two
lines as an x that stays crossed in the same location regarless of
table height (so far) and stay visible right up until the drill tip
contacts.

My miter laser died and I never looked into fixing it. I only use for
rough cuts, construction type stuff withthe exception of crown
molding. Then I use a fixture. All precise cross cuts get done on the
TS.

A laser on my Glock would be good. The 12 guage seems to work well
without one. ;^)

On 11/8/2011 11:25 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I bought the 1HP Porter Cable drill press at Lowes for ~$300. Loving
it.

Can I say I love the laser that throws an X to mark the spot. This is
one gimick worth the time to keep working and calibrated.

Runs pretty smooth (rattles a bit like all non-gear head drill-
presses). Nice belt change setup and tensioner. Includes a light on a
flex arm which is real nice to have and the red laser still shows up
fine.

Did I say I love the X laser?

I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

OK Thanx for that! Duh!!

It just kicked in how easy the cross hairs would be with two projecting
line lasers at 90 degrees to each other on the bit point.


-------------
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
Haven't really even looked at the optics but somehow they cast two
lines as an x that stays crossed in the same location regarless of
table height (so far) and stay visible right up until the drill tip
contacts.

-----------------
How do they align the laser markings at any height of drill surface.
It
would seem to have to shine down the shaft of the drill bit and that
doesn't
sound possible?? Smoke and mirrors? Moving mechanism?

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Obviously, you feel that the lasers aren't reliable enough for
accurate repeated drilling. Would you use them if they were or are you
of the old school frame of mind ~ preferring the method you've always
had to use?

I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. *Am I missing something here? *Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Of course (no pun) for some production or repeated setup I adjust the
fence, stop blocks or make a fixture. But even setting up those items
the laser helps me get them dead on. Also lots of my daily use is one
hole here and there and using a brad point bit and some pencil marks I
can nail the center like never before. Maybe it's just me but I always
had trouble getting the dill point to line up to marks and often had
to contact the wood before I could tell if I was lined up but with the
laser I find it much easier.

On 11/8/2011 3:13 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Obviously, you feel that the lasers aren't reliable enough for
accurate repeated drilling. Would you use them if they were or are you
of the old school frame of mind ~ preferring the method you've always
had to use?

I think they are reliable but I have not yet seen one that you can get a
repeatable mark to say 1/32" of an inch. The lines are too coarse.
Like trying to measure 32nds" of an inch with a rule that has 1/32" wide
markings.

On 11/8/2011 3:14 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Of course (no pun) for some production or repeated setup I adjust the
fence, stop blocks or make a fixture. But even setting up those items
the laser helps me get them dead on. Also lots of my daily use is one
hole here and there and using a brad point bit and some pencil marks I
can nail the center like never before. Maybe it's just me but I always
had trouble getting the dill point to line up to marks and often had
to contact the wood before I could tell if I was lined up but with the
laser I find it much easier.

I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up. Additionally I find it way to easy to knock the lasers out of
alignment. AND My marks tend to be relative narrow compared to the
width of the laser, and the laser hides the mark so I don't know if my
mark is centered under the laser line or off to one edge of the laser line.

Just aim for the`middle of the lines. This would be no different than
using a steel rule in Machine Shop training for 0.001" accuracy.

Now old eyes may change a few things.

------------------

"Leon" wrote in message
...
I think they are reliable but I have not yet seen one that you can get
a
repeatable mark to say 1/32" of an inch. The lines are too coarse.
Like trying to measure 32nds" of an inch with a rule that has 1/32"
wide
markings.

I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up. *Additionally I find it way to easy to knock the lasers out of
alignment. *AND My marks tend to be relative narrow compared to the
width of the laser, and the laser hides the mark so I don't know if my
mark is centered under the laser line or off to one edge of the laser line.

I was using a 1 1/3" forstner and don't recall having a problem. Also
I was able to see my pencil marks under the laser on black phenolic.

I haven't knocked them out of adjustment...yet. Haven't ever
calibrated them that I recall (maybe I did when I set it up). But
don't even recall exactly where it/they are installed. I just quickly
got used to them and found them very effective... for me.

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:24:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up.

I'm guessing that you're aware you can compenesate for those large
shadowding bits by just starting the hole with the tip and then
retracting the bit to see if the cross hairs line up with it. But, it
does take a little more time and effort.

On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 16:25:47 -0500, "m II" wrote:
Just aim for the`middle of the lines. This would be no different than
using a steel rule in Machine Shop training for 0.001" accuracy.

That all depends on how thick and how sharply the laser lines are
definded.

On Nov 8, 1:35*pm, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:24:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet

I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up.

I'm guessing that you're aware you can compenesate for those large
shadowding bits by just starting the hole with the tip and then
retracting the bit to see if the cross hairs line up with it. But, it
does take a little more time and effort.

Sounds like my last date.

On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 13:51:52 -0800 (PST), "SonomaProducts.com"
Sounds like my last date.

Yeah, I've had a few difficult dates too. The worst one that comes to
mind was the nurse who warned me against coming onto her even before I
opened the car door for her to get in. In retrospect, I should have
ended the date right there and then.

On Nov 8, 1:14*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. *Am I missing something here? *Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Of course (no pun) for some production or repeated setup I adjust the
fence, stop blocks or make a fixture. But even setting up those items
the laser helps me get them dead on. Also lots of my daily use is one
hole here and there and using a brad point bit and some pencil marks I
can nail the center like never before. Maybe it's just me but I always
had trouble getting the dill point to line up to marks and often had
to contact the wood before I could tell if I was lined up but with the
laser I find it much easier.

At first I read "... into her" but then saw it was "onto her".
Actually, for me either is OK as long as I get to.

On 11/08/11 4:13 PM, m II wrote:
OK Thanx for that! Duh!!

It just kicked in how easy the cross hairs would be with two projecting
line lasers at 90 degrees to each other on the bit point.


-------------
"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
Haven't really even looked at the optics but somehow they cast two
lines as an x that stays crossed in the same location regarless of
table height (so far) and stay visible right up until the drill tip
contacts.

-----------------
How do they align the laser markings at any height of drill surface. It
would seem to have to shine down the shaft of the drill bit and that
doesn't
sound possible?? Smoke and mirrors? Moving mechanism?


Well that makes a confirmation the two top posting morons are the same
person.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 11/8/2011 3:36 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 16:25:47 -0500, "m wrote:
Just aim for the`middle of the lines. This would be no different than
using a steel rule in Machine Shop training for 0.001" accuracy.

That all depends on how thick and how sharply the laser lines are
definded.

Correct but I have yet to see a line thinner than 1/32"

On 11/8/2011 3:35 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:24:41 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up.

I'm guessing that you're aware you can compenesate for those large
shadowding bits by just starting the hole with the tip and then
retracting the bit to see if the cross hairs line up with it. But, it
does take a little more time and effort.

Yes! but I have broad lines on mine and there is no instruction on
making the line of the laser narrower. Basically I can move the mark
and it is still under the crossing laser lines.

If I need to make repeated holes I simply draw a square line to the edge
of the piece that will touch the fence. I drop the bit to touch the line
and attach a piece of tape and mark a line on it at the line on the
board. Next board aligns to that mark on the fence.

On Nov 8, 4:24*pm, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 11/8/2011 3:14 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:



I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. *Am I missing something here? *Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Of course (no pun) for some production or repeated setup I adjust the
fence, stop blocks or make a fixture. But even setting up those items
the laser helps me get them dead on. Also lots of my daily use is one
hole here and there and using a brad point bit and some pencil marks I
can nail the center like never before. Maybe it's just me but I always
had trouble getting the dill point to line up to marks and often had
to contact the wood before I could tell if I was lined up but with the
laser I find it much easier.

I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up. *Additionally I find it way to easy to knock the lasers out of
alignment. *AND My marks tend to be relative narrow compared to the
width of the laser, and the laser hides the mark so I don't know if my
mark is centered under the laser line or off to one edge of the laser line.

Yup. That's my beef with the whole laser thing...too fat a line. It's
like marking a shoulder on a tenon with a crayon.

On Nov 8, 4:51*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
On Nov 8, 1:35*pm, Dave wrote:

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:24:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet

I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up.

I'm guessing that you're aware you can compenesate for those large
shadowding bits by just starting the hole with the tip and then
retracting the bit to see if the cross hairs line up with it. But, it
does take a little more time and effort.

Sounds like my last date.

He said CROSS hairs.

On 11/8/11 7:11 PM, Robatoy wrote:
Yup. That's my beef with the whole laser thing...too fat a line. It's
like marking a shoulder on a tenon with a crayon.

(Like)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 17:12:03 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
wrote:

On Nov 8, 4:51*pm, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
On Nov 8, 1:35*pm, Dave wrote:

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:24:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet

I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up.

I'm guessing that you're aware you can compenesate for those large
shadowding bits by just starting the hole with the tip and then
retracting the bit to see if the cross hairs line up with it. But, it
does take a little more time and effort.

Sounds like my last date.

He said CROSS hairs.

It leaves me wondering why her hairs were so mad at him.

--
A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner, so if
one's life is cold and bare he can blame none but himself.
-- Louis L'Amour

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:20:34 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/8/2011 3:13 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Obviously, you feel that the lasers aren't reliable enough for
accurate repeated drilling. Would you use them if they were or are you
of the old school frame of mind ~ preferring the method you've always
had to use?

I think they are reliable but I have not yet seen one that you can get a
repeatable mark to say 1/32" of an inch. The lines are too coarse.
Like trying to measure 32nds" of an inch with a rule that has 1/32" wide
markings.

Here ya go, old man: http://goo.gl/K4Hv6
Now maybe you can see those 1/64 and RCH lines on the better tapes.

--
A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner, so if
one's life is cold and bare he can blame none but himself.
-- Louis L'Amour

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 11/8/2011 11:25 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I bought the 1HP Porter Cable drill press at Lowes for ~$300. Loving
it.

Can I say I love the laser that throws an X to mark the spot. This is
one gimick worth the time to keep working and calibrated.

Runs pretty smooth (rattles a bit like all non-gear head drill-
presses). Nice belt change setup and tensioner. Includes a light on a
flex arm which is real nice to have and the red laser still shows up
fine.

Did I say I love the X laser?

I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Perhaps yours isn't adjusted properly? The lasers on my Delta 18-900L align
perfectly over the range of the table. It takes a little work to dial them in
but once it's set up it's great.

On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:19:04 -0800, Larry Jaques
Here ya go, old man: http://goo.gl/K4Hv6
Now maybe you can see those 1/64 and RCH lines on the better tapes.

Hey, have a little compassion for the old guy. He has to keep his
hands free for operate the drill press.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...56,43351,52368

On 11/8/2011 11:59 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 11/8/2011 11:25 AM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
I bought the 1HP Porter Cable drill press at Lowes for ~$300. Loving
it.

Can I say I love the laser that throws an X to mark the spot. This is
one gimick worth the time to keep working and calibrated.

Runs pretty smooth (rattles a bit like all non-gear head drill-
presses). Nice belt change setup and tensioner. Includes a light on a
flex arm which is real nice to have and the red laser still shows up
fine.

Did I say I love the X laser?

I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Perhaps yours isn't adjusted properly? The lasers on my Delta 18-900L align
perfectly over the range of the table. It takes a little work to dial them in
but once it's set up it's great.

My lasers align, they just are low resolution, I have made them as
narrow as possible according to the instructions.

On 11/8/2011 11:19 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:20:34 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/8/2011 3:13 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Obviously, you feel that the lasers aren't reliable enough for
accurate repeated drilling. Would you use them if they were or are you
of the old school frame of mind ~ preferring the method you've always
had to use?

I think they are reliable but I have not yet seen one that you can get a
repeatable mark to say 1/32" of an inch. The lines are too coarse.
Like trying to measure 32nds" of an inch with a rule that has 1/32" wide
markings.

Here ya go, old man: http://goo.gl/K4Hv6
Now maybe you can see those 1/64 and RCH lines on the better tapes.

--
A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner, so if
one's life is cold and bare he can blame none but himself.
-- Louis L'Amour

I don't have a problem seeing the markings, as long as they are not
under the wide laser beams.

On 11/8/2011 7:11 PM, Robatoy wrote:
On Nov 8, 4:24 pm, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 11/8/2011 3:14 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:



I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Of course (no pun) for some production or repeated setup I adjust the
fence, stop blocks or make a fixture. But even setting up those items
the laser helps me get them dead on. Also lots of my daily use is one
hole here and there and using a brad point bit and some pencil marks I
can nail the center like never before. Maybe it's just me but I always
had trouble getting the dill point to line up to marks and often had
to contact the wood before I could tell if I was lined up but with the
laser I find it much easier.

I guess my biggest complaint is when using a Forstner bit, the laser
does not reach the work at all with a moderately large bit unless it is
way up. Additionally I find it way to easy to knock the lasers out of
alignment. AND My marks tend to be relative narrow compared to the
width of the laser, and the laser hides the mark so I don't know if my
mark is centered under the laser line or off to one edge of the laser line.

Yup. That's my beef with the whole laser thing...too fat a line. It's
like marking a shoulder on a tenon with a crayon.

Thank you Robatoy! I think you actually understand the problem. LOL

Now I will say that the laser level, the tool that shoots a level line
around the perimeter of a room for putting up cabinets works well
enough, unless the floor sinks when you walk near the tripod... Uh
Swingman? ;~)

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
news
Now I will say that the laser level, the tool that shoots a level line
around the perimeter of a room for putting up cabinets works well
enough, unless the floor sinks when you walk near the tripod... Uh
Swingman? ;~)

Somebody needs to lose weight?? Karl doesn't look overweight ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 11/9/2011 7:48 AM, Han wrote:
Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
news
Now I will say that the laser level, the tool that shoots a level line
around the perimeter of a room for putting up cabinets works well
enough, unless the floor sinks when you walk near the tripod... Uh
Swingman? ;~)

Somebody needs to lose weight?? Karl doesn't look overweight ...


That floor was actually plywood on top of a new cork floor. It was
down there to protect the new floor.

Last trip to the Dr's office I was 181 lbs and just shy of 6'. ;~)

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
:

Last trip to the Dr's office I was 181 lbs and just shy of 6'. ;~)

That's a lot better than I am - 210 and 5'9" (I'm trying to lose, but it is
going the wrong way)

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 11/9/2011 7:48 AM, Han wrote:
Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in
news
Now I will say that the laser level, the tool that shoots a level line
around the perimeter of a room for putting up cabinets works well
enough, unless the floor sinks when you walk near the tripod... Uh
Swingman? ;~)

Somebody needs to lose weight?? Karl doesn't look overweight ...

I think he was talking about the time a cork tile floor had enough give
to throw the laser level off when you walked up to the tripod to make an
adjustment?

With Leon, there ain't no telling ... g

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

Swingman wrote in news:Re-dndXZL8MbFifTnZ2dnUVZ_r-
:

I think he was talking about the time a cork tile floor had enough give
to throw the laser level off when you walked up to the tripod to make an
adjustment?

He was. I didn't know cork had that much give. I suppose you put down a
piece of plywood to have the tripod rest on, in such a way you didn't have
to step on the plywood to adjust the lasers?

With Leon, there ain't no telling ... g

lol

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 11/9/2011 8:22 AM, Han wrote:
wrote in news:Re-dndXZL8MbFifTnZ2dnUVZ_r-
:

I think he was talking about the time a cork tile floor had enough give
to throw the laser level off when you walked up to the tripod to make an
adjustment?

He was. I didn't know cork had that much give. I suppose you put down a
piece of plywood to have the tripod rest on, in such a way you didn't have
to step on the plywood to adjust the lasers?

We always establish level reference line around the walls of an
installation so we can determine the low and high spots of the floor,
telling us where cabinets will have to be shimmed.

We ALWAYS do this from FF (finished floor).

So, reading between the lines, we should have already done that, and
were probably trying to reference off a previously established line/mark
.... after we had put down floor protection.

With Leon, there ain't no telling ...g

lol

The lad has a dry sense of humor ... some folks can't always tell
whether he's kidding or serious. g

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

On Nov 8, 11:25*am, "SonomaProducts.com" wrote:
I bought the 1HP Porter Cable drill press at Lowes for ~$300. Loving
it.

Can I say I love the laser that throws an X to mark the spot. This is
one gimick worth the time to keep working and calibrated.

I have a DP-300 with the laser. I seldom use it. It's a pain to re-
calibrate if you bump it, and the line width is too fat for accurate
positioning.

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 06:39:30 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/8/2011 11:19 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:20:34 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/8/2011 3:13 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Obviously, you feel that the lasers aren't reliable enough for
accurate repeated drilling. Would you use them if they were or are you
of the old school frame of mind ~ preferring the method you've always
had to use?

I think they are reliable but I have not yet seen one that you can get a
repeatable mark to say 1/32" of an inch. The lines are too coarse.
Like trying to measure 32nds" of an inch with a rule that has 1/32" wide
markings.

Here ya go, old man: http://goo.gl/K4Hv6
Now maybe you can see those 1/64 and RCH lines on the better tapes.


I don't have a problem seeing the markings, as long as they are not
under the wide laser beams.

Yeah, it wouldn't be bad if the lasers were the exact same width as
the blade, or started exactly on one side of the cut. I haven't liked
any of the lasers I've used on tools, either.

--
Resolve to be thyself: and know, that he who finds himself, loses his misery.
-- Matthew Arnold

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 07:43:50 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 06:39:30 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/8/2011 11:19 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:20:34 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/8/2011 3:13 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Obviously, you feel that the lasers aren't reliable enough for
accurate repeated drilling. Would you use them if they were or are you
of the old school frame of mind ~ preferring the method you've always
had to use?

I think they are reliable but I have not yet seen one that you can get a
repeatable mark to say 1/32" of an inch. The lines are too coarse.
Like trying to measure 32nds" of an inch with a rule that has 1/32" wide
markings.

Here ya go, old man: http://goo.gl/K4Hv6
Now maybe you can see those 1/64 and RCH lines on the better tapes.


I don't have a problem seeing the markings, as long as they are not
under the wide laser beams.

Yeah, it wouldn't be bad if the lasers were the exact same width as
the blade, or started exactly on one side of the cut. I haven't liked
any of the lasers I've used on tools, either.

A 1/8" laser would be nice for a SCMS. The laser on my Bosch is on the left
side of the cut. If I put the mark exactly on the laser, the piece to the
left is the right size. Since I'm right-handed, my left is generally holding
the piece of interest; works out fine.

On 11/9/11 10:13 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 07:43:50 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 06:39:30 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/8/2011 11:19 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:20:34 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 11/8/2011 3:13 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 08 Nov 2011 14:16:25 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have a Delta DP that came with the laser and would not miss it if quit
working. Am I missing something here? Now I will admit that for coarse
locating I am ok with it but not for accurate repeated drilling.

Obviously, you feel that the lasers aren't reliable enough for
accurate repeated drilling. Would you use them if they were or are you
of the old school frame of mind ~ preferring the method you've always
had to use?

I think they are reliable but I have not yet seen one that you can get a
repeatable mark to say 1/32" of an inch. The lines are too coarse.
Like trying to measure 32nds" of an inch with a rule that has 1/32" wide
markings.

Here ya go, old man: http://goo.gl/K4Hv6
Now maybe you can see those 1/64 and RCH lines on the better tapes.


I don't have a problem seeing the markings, as long as they are not
under the wide laser beams.

Yeah, it wouldn't be bad if the lasers were the exact same width as
the blade, or started exactly on one side of the cut. I haven't liked
any of the lasers I've used on tools, either.

A 1/8" laser would be nice for a SCMS. The laser on my Bosch is on the left
side of the cut. If I put the mark exactly on the laser, the piece to the
left is the right size. Since I'm right-handed, my left is generally holding
the piece of interest; works out fine.

My Delta 12" CMS has lasers on both sides of the blade and they are dead
on. They have an adjustment, but I've never had to reset it after the
initial set-up. The lines can be spread out or tightened up to adjust
for blade kerf.

In this case, the width of the laser (not anywhere as wide as those in
the pics shown) is irrelevant, because I adjusted them to be on the
outside of the cut. Like when you mark a measurement with a pencil line
to "save the line" or "cut the line." My CMS lasers are adjusted to save
the line and they are dead on accurate.

I've seen some of these wide, fuzzy laser lines on other tools and
thought that the judicious placement of some electrical tape on the lens
might effect a sharpening of the line. Creating a fine slit through
which the laser has to exit couple perhaps thin the line at the stock.
It's worth a few minutes of experimentation, at least.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 11/9/2011 8:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/9/2011 8:22 AM, Han wrote:
wrote in news:Re-dndXZL8MbFifTnZ2dnUVZ_r-
:

I think he was talking about the time a cork tile floor had enough give
to throw the laser level off when you walked up to the tripod to make an
adjustment?

He was. I didn't know cork had that much give. I suppose you put down a
piece of plywood to have the tripod rest on, in such a way you didn't
have
to step on the plywood to adjust the lasers?

We always establish level reference line around the walls of an
installation so we can determine the low and high spots of the floor,
telling us where cabinets will have to be shimmed.

We ALWAYS do this from FF (finished floor).

So, reading between the lines, we should have already done that, and
were probably trying to reference off a previously established line/mark
... after we had put down floor protection.

With Leon, there ain't no telling ...g

lol

The lad has a dry sense of humor ... some folks can't always tell
whether he's kidding or serious. g


OMG! WOT!