On 7/17/2011 6:34 PM, Leon wrote:
On 7/17/2011 5:18 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:

You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
disappear.

Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
far as I know?

Is yours different?

5.0 here...


I am using TB 5.0.

Same here.

To delete a sender/poster, click Menu, message drop down, choose Create
filter from message.

Yes, I know all that, but in the past, deleting a message didn't work in
a newsgroup. I'm asking about the menu bar right below the tool bar.
You can customize it however you want, and one of the items is delete.
This is greyed out when in a newsgroup so you cannot delete the message.
I would think deleting a message via a filter wouldn't work either.
I'll have to try it on someone that looks like a troll... Mr Pounder,
yeah that looks shaky enough...

....Yep, now the filter deletes the message just as you say, yet and
still, the delete tool is greyed out in the menu bar....

I hope the sucker was a troll, cause the message sure enough is gone...
I prefer to mark them as read myself, just in case.


In the window that drops opens choose the obvious.

Then once the filter is created choose from the Menu, Tools, Message
Filters.

Choose the filter, and at the bottom of this window open the drop down "
Run filters on" and select the correct group. Choose run now.

The key is to ensure you have chosen the correct group.


Not a real quick way but it works.


--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/17/2011 6:52 PM, Leon wrote:

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool store
I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems they made
the right decision for me...

And if you like TopCote you might love Empire TopSaver. They originally
produced TopCote and have in recent years started making a similar
product again. I used Empire Top Saver, or what ever they called it,
back in the early 80's. It as a superior top slicker upper and as a side
benefit, one which they did not claim, it prevented rust. Now they make
the rust prevention claim.

I personally TopCote now, it is about 2/3's the cost of the Empire product.

I don't use my tools as much as I once did, but it seems to me that Top
Cote works about the same as the 3M stuff I used in the 70's and 80's,
but does not seem as durable.(subject to aged memory) When I used my
tools every day, it lasted about 6 months.(also subject to aged memory)

TopCote seems a bit less, and I use my tools far less. Still, I bought
two cans a few years ago, and still have some left in one can, and a
whole can untouched. Takes me all of 10 seconds to recoat my table saw,
my biggest table, so I'm more than happy with TopCote. I paid 9.99 a
can when I bought it.

--
Jack
A clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory.
http://jbstein.com

On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:29:32 -0400, Jack Stein wrote:

On 7/14/2011 9:08 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, "J. wrote:

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.

When I got my planer the segmented head was packed with some god awful
grease goop that was almost impossible to get out of every nook and
cranny of a segmented 72 tooth head. They could have sprayed the damned
thing with Topcote and I wouldn't have needed to spend 4 hours digging
out grease. They used a ton of it too, and probably would have been
cheaper and easier to use Topcote, or similar item. I nicked a finger
doing it as well... I shoulda sued the *******s...

I don't think you're ever to get them to stop using cosmoline on iron that has
to make the great crossing from China, lashed to the deck of a ship.

On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:40:31 -0400, Jack Stein wrote:

On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
this group . I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool
store I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems
they made the right decision for me...

Pretty much the opposite of my experience (Woodcraft only carried T-9). OTOH,
there was almost a consensus here, at the time, that Boeshield was better at
protecting metal. Boeing apparently thought so, too.

On 7/17/2011 12:56 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jul 2011 07:07:50 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/16/2011 12:05 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 22:30:15 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/15/2011 7:30 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
Snip

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.


Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
everything with grease than to pay attention to details.

Ok, what's your Laguna use?

Not sure exactly however there was nothing caked up anywhere on the
machine. They recommend a Teflon lubricant so I use a product called
Triflon. I have only had to apply it once or twice in the last 4 or so
years.

Good to know. Thanks. We're taking a trip up to Atlanta tomorrow so I'll
give the Lagunas in the Woodcraft and Rockler stores a good look.

Well, my field trip was somewhat fruitful (scored a Forrest Dado King at 25%
off, at Highland Woodworking) and I took a good look at the LT14 and
LT14x14SUV at Woodcraft (and the latter at Rockler). There is enough
difference that I think I'll eventually go with the LT14x14SUV even though
it's about 75lbs heavier and $300 more.

I looked closely at the tensioning mechanism. It's certainly not filled with
grease but there was oil dripping off it. It certainly wasn't a dry
lubricant.

Keep in mind that Laguna BS'S are built in at least 2 countries, I
suspect that the latest versions might be Aasian. The HD series are
Italian, and the non HD versions used to be build in Bulgaria IIRC. To
the best ofmy knowledge however the guides on all the saws are of the
10 point ceramic variety. If Minimax is there give them a good look too.

Aack! HD series? I don't see any "HD" designations on their site. Laguna is
stretching my (self-imposed) budget and weight limit.

Minimax doesn't make a 14" saw and their 16" is significantly more expensive
(can't find the price right now but it's $3000, IIRC) and way too heavy
(530lbs). That's a non-starter.

Damn! I have a 16" Mini-Max and I bought it brand new for $1500 back in 2002.
They sure have bumped the prices since then! I don't think they've ever made
a 14" bandsaw.

--
"Our beer goes through thousands of quality Czechs every day."
(From a Shiner Bock billboard I saw in Austin some years ago)
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On 7/17/2011 8:48 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:40:31 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
this group . I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool
store I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems
they made the right decision for me...

Pretty much the opposite of my experience (Woodcraft only carried T-9). OTOH,
there was almost a consensus here, at the time, that Boeshield was better at
protecting metal. Boeing apparently thought so, too.

Boeshield is good at protecting metal, as long as you don't wipe it off.
Unfortunately in a humid environment you have to wipe it all off or
IMHO it feels grabby. Wipe it all off and it is no longer going to
protect. I suppode in a less humid environment it works out better for
some.

On 7/17/2011 5:56 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/17/2011 6:34 PM, Leon wrote:
On 7/17/2011 5:18 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:

You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
disappear.

Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
far as I know?

Is yours different?

5.0 here...


I am using TB 5.0.

Same here.

To delete a sender/poster, click Menu, message drop down, choose Create
filter from message.

Yes, I know all that, but in the past, deleting a message didn't work in
a newsgroup. I'm asking about the menu bar right below the tool bar. You
can customize it however you want, and one of the items is delete.

Ohhhhhh, That deletes e-mail.



This
is greyed out when in a newsgroup so you cannot delete the message. I
would think deleting a message via a filter wouldn't work either.

I'll
have to try it on someone that looks like a troll... Mr Pounder, yeah
that looks shaky enough...

...Yep, now the filter deletes the message just as you say, yet and
still, the delete tool is greyed out in the menu bar....


Click on/Hi light your in box, and the Delete button will no longer be
greyed out.

On 7/17/2011 9:24 PM, Steve Turner wrote:
On 7/17/2011 12:56 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Damn! I have a 16" Mini-Max and I bought it brand new for $1500 back in
2002. They sure have bumped the prices since then! I don't think they've
ever made a 14" bandsaw.


I bought my Laguna in 2006 IIRC, I paid about $600-$700 less. I bet
Ferrari's have gone up too. ;~)

On 7/17/2011 11:11 PM, Leon wrote:
On 7/17/2011 5:56 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/17/2011 6:34 PM, Leon wrote:
On 7/17/2011 5:18 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:

You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
disappear.

Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
far as I know?

Is yours different?

5.0 here...


I am using TB 5.0.

Same here.

To delete a sender/poster, click Menu, message drop down, choose Create
filter from message.

Yes, I know all that, but in the past, deleting a message didn't work in
a newsgroup. I'm asking about the menu bar right below the tool bar. You
can customize it however you want, and one of the items is delete.

Ohhhhhh, That deletes e-mail.



This
is greyed out when in a newsgroup so you cannot delete the message. I
would think deleting a message via a filter wouldn't work either.

Click on/Hi light your in box, and the Delete button will no longer be
greyed out.

Yes, the inbox is email, newsgroups are a separate account and the
delete button is greyed out in newsgroups, supposedly because you cannot
delete messages from a newsgroup. This was consistent in both the menu
bar and in the message filters, but in 5.0, it's no longer consistent,
you can delete them with a filter, but not from the menu bar. A minor
issue, bigger one is I can no longer create a filter from an opened message.

--
Jack
Got Change: Now CHANGE IT BACK!
http://jbstein.com

Nicely put!

It's not the people that are the trolls, it's the particular post.

Larry's post was a troll. This may be typical. YMMV

Glad somebody repeated it. I would have never seen it.

-----------------------
"Jack Stein" wrote in message ...
Larry, just because people disagree with stuff and are not afraid to put
it in writing doesn't mean they are trolls. krw is not a troll, J.
Clark is not a troll? Trolls always use fake names, are not at all
interested in anything related to the newsgroup, and often work in
teams, and/or take on multiple personalities for the sole purpose of
disrupting a group. 99% of the time you can spot a real troll easily by
the name, and the content of the post. If you think these two are
trolls, you need to think harder.

It's true that ignoring trolls, or anyone you disagree with, will make
your on line life quicker and easier... But boring as hell.

--
Jack
Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit;
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

http://jbstein.com

On 7/16/11 11:18 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.


T-9? Really? Do you have a Teflon saw table? :-)

T-9 sprayed on and not wiped off before drying remains tacky for a long
time.


I did this to my bandsaw table and you are absolutely correct.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/17/11 1:04 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jul 2011 07:13:00 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
I dont in particular care for Boeshield. I have a 12 year old can with
most of it full. Originally I used it on my TS top but found that it
had to be wiped/cleaned off before use. I found it to be more of a
preservative than "top slicker upper". Topcote seems to be the only
thing that I am aware of that goes on easy and needs no other attention.
I seldom wipe the surface off as instructed on the can.

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
this group . I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

I retreated my bandsaw table the other day to try to get the results you
guys are talking about and you are both correct. What is on there now is
definitely slightly tacky and is way less slick than the bare cast iron
top.

What I have been using that doesn't need any other effort than spraying
is Superlube Dri-Film. But I suspect this product may have silicone,
which is supposed to be a no-no for wood contact.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/18/11 2:22 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
What I have been using that doesn't need any other effort than spraying
is Superlube Dri-Film. But I suspect this product may have silicone,
which is supposed to be a no-no for wood contact.


Apparently it does not contain silicone. I'm going to try this on the
saw top..... which I'm beginning to recollect I may have already done
and posted about a while back. Memory's the first to go, they say.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:06:49 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/17/2011 8:48 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:40:31 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
this group . I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool
store I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems
they made the right decision for me...

Pretty much the opposite of my experience (Woodcraft only carried T-9). OTOH,
there was almost a consensus here, at the time, that Boeshield was better at
protecting metal. Boeing apparently thought so, too.

Boeshield is good at protecting metal, as long as you don't wipe it off.
Unfortunately in a humid environment you have to wipe it all off or
IMHO it feels grabby. Wipe it all off and it is no longer going to
protect. I suppode in a less humid environment it works out better for
some.

I waited about five minutes before wiping it off. It must protect the iron
because it's not rusted. ;-)

On 7/18/2011 5:10 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:06:49 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/17/2011 8:48 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:40:31 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
this group . I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool
store I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems
they made the right decision for me...

Pretty much the opposite of my experience (Woodcraft only carried T-9). OTOH,
there was almost a consensus here, at the time, that Boeshield was better at
protecting metal. Boeing apparently thought so, too.

Boeshield is good at protecting metal, as long as you don't wipe it off.
Unfortunately in a humid environment you have to wipe it all off or
IMHO it feels grabby. Wipe it all off and it is no longer going to
protect. I suppode in a less humid environment it works out better for
some.

I waited about five minutes before wiping it off. It must protect the iron
because it's not rusted. ;-)


Is it still tacky? I wiped mine off till it was no longer tacky, had
rust the next morning.

On Mon, 18 Jul 2011 18:28:11 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/18/2011 5:10 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 22:06:49 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/17/2011 8:48 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:40:31 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
this group . I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool
store I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems
they made the right decision for me...

Pretty much the opposite of my experience (Woodcraft only carried T-9). OTOH,
there was almost a consensus here, at the time, that Boeshield was better at
protecting metal. Boeing apparently thought so, too.

Boeshield is good at protecting metal, as long as you don't wipe it off.
Unfortunately in a humid environment you have to wipe it all off or
IMHO it feels grabby. Wipe it all off and it is no longer going to
protect. I suppode in a less humid environment it works out better for
some.

I waited about five minutes before wiping it off. It must protect the iron
because it's not rusted. ;-)


Is it still tacky? I wiped mine off till it was no longer tacky, had
rust the next morning.

No, it was never really "tacky". The wood didn't slide as well as I'd
expected after I first used it. I don't leave it on nearly as long now and
it's much better. No rust, but there is a discoloration where apparently
sweat has gotten to it.

"dadiOH" wrote in :


1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade

I picked up a wood slicer blade and the wood turner's blade from Highland.
What a difference these blades make. I had the one from the riser kit on
for a little while (to make sure everything worked before buying blades),
and it had a definite lead and sawed poorly out of the box. The Woodslicer
and Wood Turner's blade have no discernable lead and cut through the wood
quite easily.

I had forgotten to adjust the upper guides with the wood slicer on, and it
still cut perfectly.

Thanks for the tip.

Puckdropper