On 7/14/2011 3:31 PM, dadiOH wrote:
Leon wrote:
On 7/14/2011 12:40 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote:
On 7/14/2011 10:14 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:28:20 -0500, Leon wrote:

Well thank you. It would never work on TB 3.x

I had all kinds of problems with TB 3.x and it seems it was in
need of so such an improvement that they skipped 4.x altogether, I
think. ;~)

I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine,
thank you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?


The Windows version works fine (I use linux but SWMBO uses windows).
If you mark the offending posts as "read" rather than the default
"delete", all is fine. You can't delete posts by another poster, so
the filter appears not to work.

You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
disappear.

From your computer, I am sure. Same in OE. They don't disappear from the
server though, which doesn't really matter as they are no longer bothering
you (us)

Co-wrecked!

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 10:40:00 -0700, Doug Winterburn wrote:

I'm running 3.04 under Ubuntu Linux and filters work just fine, thank
you. Cockpit error? Or is the Windoze version less capable?


The Windows version works fine (I use linux but SWMBO uses windows). If
you mark the offending posts as "read" rather than the default "delete",
all is fine. You can't delete posts by another poster, so the filter
appears not to work.

I don't use Tbird for news, only for mail, so I was basing my post on how
it worked for mail. But I can see why it wouldn't work for news. BTW, I
added a "Received" option to the filter choices in Tbird. That way I can
filter out any mail from China, Russia, etc..

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

In article om,
Puckdropper says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
in.local:

In article , lid
says...

In article
"dadiOH" writes:
Puckdropper wrote:

Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was
included as well.

1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade

I had the impression that wider was better for resawing.
Is there a reason to prefer a 1/2" Woodslicer over a 3/4" Woodslicer?

If the saw you have can tension a 3/4" blade then the 3/4 would be
preferable for resawing. The trouble is that despite what the
advertising for the saw says, most small saws are at the edge of their
capacity with a 3/4 inch blade.


I am finding out just how much of my saw is "most saws". It seems the
design has been copied (with varing degrees of quality) by many different
companies. I've got a Powermatic riser kit ordered that should fit my
Jet saw.

Tensioning a 3/4" blade with the top knob on my saw is difficult to say
the least. The knob is too small to provide a good grip, let alone
excellent tension. (I found a replacement kit for $15 that should work
much better.)

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote:

In article om,
Puckdropper says...

"J. Clarke" wrote in
in.local:

In article , lid
says...

In article
"dadiOH" writes:
Puckdropper wrote:

Right now, there is a 3/4" blade on it. A 5/16" blade was
included as well.

1. Get a 1/2" Woodslicer blade

I had the impression that wider was better for resawing.
Is there a reason to prefer a 1/2" Woodslicer over a 3/4" Woodslicer?

If the saw you have can tension a 3/4" blade then the 3/4 would be
preferable for resawing. The trouble is that despite what the
advertising for the saw says, most small saws are at the edge of their
capacity with a 3/4 inch blade.


I am finding out just how much of my saw is "most saws". It seems the
design has been copied (with varing degrees of quality) by many different
companies. I've got a Powermatic riser kit ordered that should fit my
Jet saw.

Tensioning a 3/4" blade with the top knob on my saw is difficult to say
the least. The knob is too small to provide a good grip, let alone
excellent tension. (I found a replacement kit for $15 that should work
much better.)

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

On 7/13/2011 7:52 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:



Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.

In Agent, it's Ctrl-K and Yes.
Downloading newest T-bird now...
Setting up newsgroups...

Sheeeit, Leon. It's just like setting up a spam filter.

Uckinfay Ozillamay. Ask those idiots how to set it up. It either
doubles my news server url in the filter or doesn't work.sigh

Get a real news reader, whydoncha?

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative
effort.
-- Franklin D.
Roosevelt

Ok La-rey the Clark is plonked. ;~)

==================

You are a complete idiot! Take the hook out of your sheeple mouth!

Larry Jaques ***IS*** the troll and uses multiple personalities here to look
like people are on his side! Real woodworkers concentrate on woodworking
here, not "everybody on my side" and hate mongering!

Wake the **** up, sucker!

mike

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...

On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 23:29:40 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 7/13/2011 7:52 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:



Explain to me in explicit detail how to filter him in Thunderbird 5.0.

In Agent, it's Ctrl-K and Yes.
Downloading newest T-bird now...
Setting up newsgroups...

Sheeeit, Leon. It's just like setting up a spam filter.

Uckinfay Ozillamay. Ask those idiots how to set it up. It either
doubles my news server url in the filter or doesn't work.sigh

Get a real news reader, whydoncha?

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative
effort.
-- Franklin D.
Roosevelt

Ok La-rey the Clark is plonked. ;~)

One Atta Boy comin' atcha!

Now you can add all the other trolls to those filters. It makes the
Wreck a much nicer place to play.

----------------------

OK Hate monger jerkwad!

What's good for the goose?

PLONK

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
in.local...

In article , lcb11211
@swbelldotnet says...

On 7/13/2011 9:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:38:41 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
--nothing of consequence--

As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.

Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
don't see the crap they spew.

--
Happiness lies in the joy of achievement and the thrill of creative
effort.
-- Franklin D.
Roosevelt

But the trouble with totally ignoring, some one, a newbe, might believe
what they have to say.

So when he makes a false statement in regard to what I have said, he is
going to be called on it and corrected.

What I wanna know is how on this "HD band saw" one manages to go from a
1-1/2 inch blade to a 1/8 inch blade without adjusting guides. Does the
1/8 inch blade just ride way back in the back of the guides rubbing its
teeth off them and riding on the edge of the wheel or something?

Every band saw I've ever seen has an upper and lower guide behind the
blade and when you change blades widths that has to be adjusted to the
new width. Is this "HD band saw" not so equipped?

I mean since I'm so horribly wrong on this that I deserve to be
killfiled, I'd really like to know.

---------------------

One of the head henchmen's personalities Larry Jaques pretended to
communicate with his other personalities that he killfiltered you.

You remember when you did the same thing to many others here? ****ing jerk!

SUFO, you're done, again.

mike

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 05:25:50 -0700 (PDT), "J. Clarke"
wrote:

So disagreeing with someone in an on-topic post is "trolling" and people who disagree on topic in an on topic post should be killfiled?

Arguing incessantly might be the reason enough in your case

On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
Snip

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.


Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
everything with grease than to pay attention to details.

On 7/12/2011 12:53 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:
On 12 Jul 2011 15:41:40 GMT, Puckdropper wrote:

Is reducing tension, say two or three twists on the tensioning knob
sufficient, or should I release it as much as I can?

The purpose of reducing the tension is to eliminate the blade putting
pressure on, and creating grooves in, the tires prematurely.

My BS has had full tension on it for 35 years. I'd bet money the guy I
bought it off of did not release the tension in the 27 years he had it
either. I replaced the tires when I bought it because they looked old
and crackled. Not saying not to release tension, but, just saying.

My blade of choice is a 3/16th inch skip tooth blade I use for
everything, including cutting fire wood and resawing. If my tires
lasted 35 years with mostly narrow blades, I would think a fat 1/2 or
3/4" blade would do even less damage to the tires, if that's possible.

My saw tracks 100% perfecto, never needs adjusted other than when
changing blades.

As far as the tension is concerned I have noticed no difference when
the adjustment is off a few turns one way or the other. Others may
comment on their experience on that aspect.

Also my experience. I adjust tension until I think it feels right, and
for past 35 years, it's been pretty right, far as I can tell. I ignore
the blade tension gauge completely.

I think another reason, (that I've ignored) is the spring. If you keep
tension on the spring, I guess the spring could lose it's spring? The
spring helps keep blades from breaking I reckon, but I don't break even
skinny blades, so that's been a non-issue to me as well.

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
Snip

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.


Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
everything with grease than to pay attention to details.

Ok, what's your Laguna use?

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:01:51 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

On 7/15/2011 8:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:01:51 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

Tell that to Boeshield....

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:01:51 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, J. Clarke wrote:

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

It's a paraffin wax. Whether or not that's a lubricant is debatable.

As much as the old timers love to spend all day waxing their tool tops,
I would think they'd be flocking to Boeshield.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

In article , markem618
@hotmail.com says...

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 05:25:50 -0700 (PDT), "J. Clarke"
wrote:

So disagreeing with someone in an on-topic post is "trolling" and people who disagree on topic in an on topic post should be killfiled?

Arguing incessantly might be the reason enough in your case

One post is hardly "arguing incessantly".

Take the hook out of your mouth. It's the same hook you cast occasionally.
You should know how it works here.





"J. Clarke" wrote in message
in.local...

In article , markem618
@hotmail.com says...

On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 05:25:50 -0700 (PDT), "J. Clarke"
wrote:

So disagreeing with someone in an on-topic post is "trolling" and people
who disagree on topic in an on topic post should be killfiled?

Arguing incessantly might be the reason enough in your case

One post is hardly "arguing incessantly".

On 7/15/2011 7:30 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
Snip

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.


Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
everything with grease than to pay attention to details.

Ok, what's your Laguna use?

Not sure exactly however there was nothing caked up anywhere on the
machine. They recommend a Teflon lubricant so I use a product called
Triflon. I have only had to apply it once or twice in the last 4 or so
years.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)

It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 22:30:15 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/15/2011 7:30 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
Snip

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.


Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
everything with grease than to pay attention to details.

Ok, what's your Laguna use?

Not sure exactly however there was nothing caked up anywhere on the
machine. They recommend a Teflon lubricant so I use a product called
Triflon. I have only had to apply it once or twice in the last 4 or so
years.

Good to know. Thanks. We're taking a trip up to Atlanta tomorrow so I'll
give the Lagunas in the Woodcraft and Rockler stores a good look.

On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, wrote:

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)

It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.


T-9? Really? Do you have a Teflon saw table? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, wrote:

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)

It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.


BTW, where are in AL? I get down there on gigs quite often.
Would love to meet up in person.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 7/16/2011 12:05 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 22:30:15 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/15/2011 7:30 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
Snip

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.


Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
everything with grease than to pay attention to details.

Ok, what's your Laguna use?

Not sure exactly however there was nothing caked up anywhere on the
machine. They recommend a Teflon lubricant so I use a product called
Triflon. I have only had to apply it once or twice in the last 4 or so
years.

Good to know. Thanks. We're taking a trip up to Atlanta tomorrow so I'll
give the Lagunas in the Woodcraft and Rockler stores a good look.

Keep in mind that Laguna BS'S are built in at least 2 countries, I
suspect that the latest versions might be Aasian. The HD series are
Italian, and the non HD versions used to be build in Bulgaria IIRC. To
the best ofmy knowledge however the guides on all the saws are of the
10 point ceramic variety. If Minimax is there give them a good look too.

On 7/15/2011 11:59 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, wrote:

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)

It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.



I dont in particular care for Boeshield. I have a 12 year old can with
most of it full. Originally I used it on my TS top but found that it
had to be wiped/cleaned off before use. I found it to be more of a
preservative than "top slicker upper". Topcote seems to be the only
thing that I am aware of that goes on easy and needs no other attention.
I seldom wipe the surface off as instructed on the can.

In article , says...

Take the hook out of your mouth. It's the same hook you cast occasionally.
You should know how it works here.

plonk

In article , says...

On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, wrote:

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)

It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.


T-9? Really? Do you have a Teflon saw table? :-)

T-9 sprayed on and not wiped off before drying remains tacky for a long
time.

On 7/16/11 11:18 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
In , says...

On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, wrote:

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)

It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.


T-9? Really? Do you have a Teflon saw table? :-)

T-9 sprayed on and not wiped off before drying remains tacky for a long
time.


Heavy coat instructions say to spray without wiping, which is obviously
what you are doing.

I've always followed the instructions for a light coating and wiped
after spraying. (insert joke, here) I may try a heavy coat on something
like my jointer just to try to duplicate your results.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:31:29 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

It's a paraffin wax. Whether or not that's a lubricant is debatable.

I was using Boeshield in a generic sense to represent spray on dry
lubricants because I couldn't remember the name of the specific product
I've been using. Guess I should have gone out to the shop and looked
before posting :-).

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 7/16/11 12:28 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:31:29 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

Or one of the dry lubes like Boeshield.

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

It's a paraffin wax. Whether or not that's a lubricant is debatable.

I was using Boeshield in a generic sense to represent spray on dry
lubricants because I couldn't remember the name of the specific product
I've been using. Guess I should have gone out to the shop and looked
before posting :-).


I can say with certainly that you used Kleenex® to wipe it off. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sat, 16 Jul 2011 07:07:50 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/16/2011 12:05 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 22:30:15 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/15/2011 7:30 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:43:07 -0500, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/14/2011 8:08 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
Snip

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.


Consider most BS's are built in a China related country and using two
lubricants would affect the cost of the machine. Easier to squirt
everything with grease than to pay attention to details.

Ok, what's your Laguna use?

Not sure exactly however there was nothing caked up anywhere on the
machine. They recommend a Teflon lubricant so I use a product called
Triflon. I have only had to apply it once or twice in the last 4 or so
years.

Good to know. Thanks. We're taking a trip up to Atlanta tomorrow so I'll
give the Lagunas in the Woodcraft and Rockler stores a good look.

Well, my field trip was somewhat fruitful (scored a Forrest Dado King at 25%
off, at Highland Woodworking) and I took a good look at the LT14 and
LT14x14SUV at Woodcraft (and the latter at Rockler). There is enough
difference that I think I'll eventually go with the LT14x14SUV even though
it's about 75lbs heavier and $300 more.

I looked closely at the tensioning mechanism. It's certainly not filled with
grease but there was oil dripping off it. It certainly wasn't a dry
lubricant.

Keep in mind that Laguna BS'S are built in at least 2 countries, I
suspect that the latest versions might be Aasian. The HD series are
Italian, and the non HD versions used to be build in Bulgaria IIRC. To
the best ofmy knowledge however the guides on all the saws are of the
10 point ceramic variety. If Minimax is there give them a good look too.

Aack! HD series? I don't see any "HD" designations on their site. Laguna is
stretching my (self-imposed) budget and weight limit.

Minimax doesn't make a 14" saw and their 16" is significantly more expensive
(can't find the price right now but it's $3000, IIRC) and way too heavy
(530lbs). That's a non-starter.

On Sat, 16 Jul 2011 00:09:23 -0500, -MIKE- wrote:

On 7/15/11 11:59 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, wrote:

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)

It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.


BTW, where are in AL? I get down there on gigs quite often.
Would love to meet up in person.

Auburn (Opelika).

On Sat, 16 Jul 2011 07:13:00 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

On 7/15/2011 11:59 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:35:15 -0500, wrote:

On 7/15/11 7:31 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Boeshield isn't really a lubricant. If anything, it does the opposite.

BTW, I have to call BS on that "opposite" statement. :-)

It leaves my saw table more sticky than without it. Since it lives in an
Alabama garage, sticky isn't the worst of the alternatives, however.



I dont in particular care for Boeshield. I have a 12 year old can with
most of it full. Originally I used it on my TS top but found that it
had to be wiped/cleaned off before use. I found it to be more of a
preservative than "top slicker upper". Topcote seems to be the only
thing that I am aware of that goes on easy and needs no other attention.
I seldom wipe the surface off as instructed on the can.

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
this group . I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

On 7/13/2011 10:05 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
Leon wrote:

On 7/12/2011 8:03 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
--nothing of consequence--

As usual you are showing your ignorance in public.

Leon, once you understand the concept, handling trolls is easy.
You simply don't repy to their teasers and you filter them so you
don't see the crap they spew.

Larry, just because people disagree with stuff and are not afraid to put
it in writing doesn't mean they are trolls. krw is not a troll, J.
Clark is not a troll? Trolls always use fake names, are not at all
interested in anything related to the newsgroup, and often work in
teams, and/or take on multiple personalities for the sole purpose of
disrupting a group. 99% of the time you can spot a real troll easily by
the name, and the content of the post. If you think these two are
trolls, you need to think harder.

It's true that ignoring trolls, or anyone you disagree with, will make
your on line life quicker and easier... But boring as hell.

--
Jack
Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit;
Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

http://jbstein.com

On 7/14/2011 9:01 AM, Leon wrote:

I'm sorely disappointed in Mozilla of late. The last two upgrades to
Firefox have eaten my data and broken Firefox. I reverted to v3.6.18
to get bookmarks, passwords, and the simple back button back.

Are you using 5.0 for FF and TB? I am not having problems with either,

I had no problems before. I can't say I'm thrilled with versions 5.0,
but problems are very minor, and not unexpected in any .0 release.

For example, in the past, I could right click on your name in the upper
right of your *opened* message, and the drop down menu included "create
filter from..." That no longer works (for me).

The "create filter from..." is still there, but it is greyed out and
doesn't do anything. Same with the drop down in the message tool bar
when in an *opened* message.

I have to use the message tool bar drop down from a *closed* message in
the message list.

I haven't had any of the problems Larry is having however.

--
Jack
Got Change: Now CHANGE IT BACK!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:

You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they disappear.

Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
far as I know?

Is yours different?

5.0 here...

--
Jack
Got Change: Democratic Republic ====== Banana Republic!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/14/2011 9:08 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:01:26 -0400, "J. wrote:

Just a suggestionm, if you haven't already done something similar--pull
out the tension assembly and work some paste wax into the screw thread
then wipe it off. Once it dries it won't pick up dust like grease
would, and it makes the mechanism work much more smoothly.

I assume you'd have to wash all the grease out first. With such "fixes" I
always wonder why the manufacturer didn't do that, if it's such a good idea.

When I got my planer the segmented head was packed with some god awful
grease goop that was almost impossible to get out of every nook and
cranny of a segmented 72 tooth head. They could have sprayed the damned
thing with Topcote and I wouldn't have needed to spend 4 hours digging
out grease. They used a ton of it too, and probably would have been
cheaper and easier to use Topcote, or similar item. I nicked a finger
doing it as well... I shoulda sued the *******s...

--
Jack
Living is like licking honey off a thorn!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/17/2011 5:18 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/14/2011 2:05 PM, Leon wrote:

You can "now" delete posts by another poster in TB 5.0. and they
disappear.

Not sure about the filter, but the "delete" item in the menu bar is
greyed out and does not work in TB 5.0 when in a newsgroup. It is not
greyed out, and does work when in an email account. This is by design
far as I know?

Is yours different?

5.0 here...


I am using TB 5.0.

To delete a sender/poster, click Menu, message drop down, choose
Create filter from message.

In the window that drops opens choose the obvious.

Then once the filter is created choose from the Menu, Tools, Message
Filters.

Choose the filter, and at the bottom of this window open the drop down "
Run filters on" and select the correct group. Choose run now.

The key is to ensure you have chosen the correct group.


Not a real quick way but it works.

On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after reading
this group . I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool
store I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems
they made the right decision for me...

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://jbstein.com

On 7/17/2011 5:40 PM, Jack Stein wrote:
On 7/17/2011 2:04 PM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

When I got the saw I was waffling between Topcoat and Boeshield (after
reading
this group . I decided to go with Boeshield but I did put it on with
the
"heavy treatment" instructions (since have slacked off toward a
thinner coat).
It's done its job in keeping the top rust free (though there are some
marks on
it) but it's certainly not as "slick" as the bare cast iron.

Topcote is slick as can be, far slicker than bare cast iron, slicker
than waxed iron. When I bought it I was waffling too, but the tool store
I bought it from only had TopCote. After this thread, it seems they made
the right decision for me...




And if you like TopCote you might love Empire TopSaver. They originally
produced TopCote and have in recent years started making a similar
product again. I used Empire Top Saver, or what ever they called it,
back in the early 80's. It as a superior top slicker upper and as a
side benefit, one which they did not claim, it prevented rust. Now they
make the rust prevention claim.

I personally TopCote now, it is about 2/3's the cost of the Empire product.