I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt abrasive
and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

Which is why you got them cheap. You did get them cheap, right? ;-)


The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic packing
tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for the
sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are usable?

Look for something using Heat and Pressure. Something you could use a
household iron on. Google 'heat seal tape'


Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"Lobby Dosser" wrote in message
...
"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
joint after a few
pressured revolutions.

Which is why you got them cheap. You did get them cheap, right? ;-)


The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just
for the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Look for something using Heat and Pressure. Something you could use
a household iron on. Google 'heat seal tape'

LD:

Oh yeah. "If you want it, take it" was the guff I had to listen to. I
even
was forced to lug the carton away.

I thought there might be heat involved in the fabrication process and
thank you for further disposing the notion to action. I'll see what
comes
up.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

On 7/15/2010 12:09 AM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

There's a special tape used. http://www.adktapes.com/products.html
Probably end up costing more than it's worth to fix your belts.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 7/15/2010 12:09 AM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just
for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

There's a special tape used.
http://www.adktapes.com/products.html Probably end up costing more
than it's worth to fix your belts.

JC:

Thanks for the site, which I checked. Although no prices were
disclosed,
I'm not betting against your probability. What is the storage life on
taped abrasive belts?

Klingspor has been cited in the past as a good bonded abrasive source.
Does anyone have further ideas on any initial customer qualifications
and
comparable quality? We could consolidate a good order especially if
they offer diamond abrasives for stone work.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 7/15/2010 12:09 AM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

There's a special tape used. http://www.adktapes.com/products.html
Probably end up costing more than it's worth to fix your belts.

JC:

Thanks for the site, which I checked. Although no prices were disclosed,

If you have to ask ....

"Edward Hennessey" wrote

I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt abrasive
and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic packing
tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for the
sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are usable?

The following might, or might not, be useful - http://tinyurl.com/25y9vpp

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net

"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

I've had the same problem for years when using old sanding belts, and even
on my wide-belt sander. Old belts just blow apart. I got a bunch of new
sanding belts with my Time Savers that were made in "West Germany"... date
that! Needless to say, they all blew apart. Cut up, I still use pieces for
hand sanding.

I faintly recall a special process for sticking these together, but my old
mind is really weak.
I tried to find it tonight but only found one useful link:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...ing_Belts.html

I don't use a belt sander much anymore, but I use new belts from the
wholesaler when I do.

best wishes, woodstuff

On 15 July, 05:09, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?


Slice them up, use them by hand or on palm sanders.

Are those belts not glued together by a long angular joint that encompasses
the whole belt circumference?

This would make the belt pretty hard to tape together. Some sort of adhesive
would be in order.

It could be very hard to get the belts to track properly after repair.


"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Is there enough room to hot glue?

Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Super glue works perfectly. I just fixed two belts 6x48" of my own, one
broke again, but it had a defect that made it break to begin with. The
other one has been working for about 2 weeks now. I initially glued the
sucker for quick use until I could get some new belts, damn thing still
working great. Don't skimp on the glue. Pretty sure I used super glue gel.

--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpGH02DtIws
http://jbstein.com

woodstuff wrote:

I've had the same problem for years when using old sanding belts, and even
on my wide-belt sander. Old belts just blow apart.
I got a bunch of new sanding belts with my Time Savers that were made in "West Germany"... date
that! Needless to say, they all blew apart. Cut up, I still use pieces for
hand sanding.

My 6x48" sanding belts are old, really, really old, like 20 years or
more. They have held up well but when they fail, it of course is along
the glue line. If they just blow apart due to glue failure, the fix is
simple.

I faintly recall a special process for sticking these together, but my old
mind is really weak.
I tried to find it tonight but only found one useful link:

I did no research, but had some super glue gel laying around. I spread
the glue on the seam, put a paper towel under the belt to stop gluing
the belt to itself, and pressed the seam together with a strip of wood.
This glue dries in 10 seconds so clamps are not even needed. The seam
is a 1/4" lap joint on these belts. I think they are originally glued
with a similar glue. I initially was afraid the glue would be too
brittle, but so far, so good.

--
Jack
Take risks: If you win, you'll be happy; if you lose, you'll be wise.
http://jbstein.com

Josepi wrote:
Are those belts not glued together by a long angular joint that encompasses
the whole belt circumference?

My belts have a long angular joint across the width of the belt.

This would make the belt pretty hard to tape together. Some sort of adhesive
would be in order.

The joint is a half lap joint. As long as the break is clean, it is
simple to line it up perfectly, it's really automatic since it's a half
lap joint. Tape, hot melt glue would not work. Super glue gel works
great, and is simple since the glue dries in seconds, and is thin enough
that the seam is not raised, and is just as flat as it was at the factory.

I just did this two weeks ago, and after several uses it's holding up
fine. Can't say it will hold up forever or not, but I can say, for
certain, it will hold up for two weeks and about an hour of sanding...

Saved me an emergency trip to Granger and it took almost zero effort to fix.

It could be very hard to get the belts to track properly after repair.

Tracking was not an issue, since the joints line up perfectly with
little fuss. A bump at the seam is no problem since super glue is thin,
even the gel type. Hot melt and tape I would think would fail to work
at all.

--
Jack
Free men do not ask permission to bear arms.
http://jbstein.com

At the risk of repeating advice given by others... Due to my lack of
reading ALL the posts... How about fiberglass reinforced tape?

--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

Edward Hennessey wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 7/15/2010 12:09 AM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
....
...When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few pressured revolutions.

....

I'm not betting against your probability. What is the storage life on
taped abrasive belts?

Klingspor has been cited in the past as a good bonded abrasive source.
Does anyone have further ideas on any initial customer qualifications
and comparable quality? We could consolidate a good order especially if
they offer diamond abrasives for stone work.
....

I have had the conversation w/ Klingspor engineering on the issue. I'll
try to dig out the correspondence if I get a moment and post same. Was
interesting insight.

They don't (because their supplier doesn't) warrant the adhesive for
over a year and had no retail supply for replacement. My experience is
in cool storage they'll last longer than that reliably but not
indefinitely as the posting shows.

Despite that disappointment I still think the Klingspor is as good a
value as there is for individuals and small production folks that I'm
aware of you just have to be aware of how long you'll take to use up
inventory and plan purchasing in accordance. In my case I went from
active moderately high volume usage to just the occasional personal use
after the move and it was several years.

--

On Jul 15, 12:09*am, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

My familiarity with this problem goes back many years. When I faced
the same experience of snapping belts, I was told that improper
storage was the culprit, ie storage in an un-heated, un-cooled
building.

I was also told the manufacturers of the belts have assembly presses
which cannot be duplicated at home.

The lesson to be learned here, IMHO, is to purchase small lots as
needed. Is there anyway to find out the date of manufacture as per a
carton of milk?

Joe G

I would have thought it would have to be an adhesive that stays soft. Lots
of bending going on. The superglue gets hard (I thought) and may only be
good for ..repair use for a few hours, breaks the next time.

I should look at my box full of belts. They are quite old now. I moved and
still haven't even found my sander...thinking I have one...maybe?...LOL


"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
Josepi wrote:
Are those belts not glued together by a long angular joint that
encompasses
the whole belt circumference?

My belts have a long angular joint across the width of the belt.

This would make the belt pretty hard to tape together. Some sort of
adhesive
would be in order.

The joint is a half lap joint. As long as the break is clean, it is
simple to line it up perfectly, it's really automatic since it's a half
lap joint. Tape, hot melt glue would not work. Super glue gel works
great, and is simple since the glue dries in seconds, and is thin enough
that the seam is not raised, and is just as flat as it was at the factory.

I just did this two weeks ago, and after several uses it's holding up
fine. Can't say it will hold up forever or not, but I can say, for
certain, it will hold up for two weeks and about an hour of sanding...

Saved me an emergency trip to Granger and it took almost zero effort to fix.

It could be very hard to get the belts to track properly after repair.

Tracking was not an issue, since the joints line up perfectly with
little fuss. A bump at the seam is no problem since super glue is thin,
even the gel type. Hot melt and tape I would think would fail to work
at all.

--
Jack
Free men do not ask permission to bear arms.
http://jbstein.com

Looks like he solved his own probelm with some superglue.


"Joe AutoDrill" wrote in message
...
At the risk of repeating advice given by others... Due to my lack of
reading ALL the posts... How about fiberglass reinforced tape?

--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.

"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Looks like he solved his own probelm with some superglue.

Yep. I read that (didn't know it was him...) and figured it would last a
few days but that the glue was too brittle to last longer.
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook

V8013-R

"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt abrasive
and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic packing
tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for the
sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

How about some carpet seam tape? The kind that you use to hold two edges
together, heat up with an iron, and voila, they are stuck together. Do you
know a carpet layer?

Joe AutoDrill wrote:
"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Looks like he solved his own probelm with some superglue.

Yep. I read that (didn't know it was him...) and figured it would last a
few days but that the glue was too brittle to last longer.

It was Jack Stein who said he had had success that way, not OP.

I'll have to try it; didn't think there would be much chance w/ it,
either so haven't done so. The info I got from Klingspor engineering is
what they use is a thermo- or UV-curable adhesive. I've not found the
communications, unfortunately; don't recall what I must've done w/ them
but not in any of the logical places (or at seem what to be logical now;
who knows what was thinking of then.. )

--

Barb/Bob Alexander wrote:
....

How about some carpet seam tape? The kind that you use to hold two
edges together, heat up with an iron, and voila, they are stuck
together. Do you know a carpet layer?

That I'm familiar with would be too thick and be a thump every rev...

--

ooops My bad. Not reading headers enough.

Yes, I figure you glue one you need and use it, then it falls apart when the
glue dries out in a few days or weeks.



"dpb" wrote in message
...
It was Jack Stein who said he had had success that way, not OP.




Joe AutoDrill wrote:
"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Looks like he solved his own probelm with some superglue.

Yep. I read that (didn't know it was him...) and figured it would last a
few days but that the glue was too brittle to last longer.

On Wed, 14 Jul 2010 21:09:11 -0700, "Edward Hennessey"
wrote the following:

I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

2 possibilities come to mind.

Some belts are extremely directional and will last forever in the
correct direction or fall apart as you speak of in the other
direction. If there is an arrow on them, be sure to use it.

Second, old belts can have old, brittle adhesive and nothing I've
heard of will save 'em. Most tape will hit the shoe plate and curl
right off.

--

EXPLETIVE: A balm, usually applied verbally in hindsight,
which somehow eases those pains and indignities following
our every deficiency in foresight.

Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey



If the ends overlap, you can use elmer's glue and fix by ironing with
a household iron. If they but up then you will need some kind of
cloth tape.

We use to make our own in school shop by cutting from a roll at a
diagonal so they would overlap by approx an inch. Then using a
grinding stone in a DeWalt radial arm saw we ground off the grid on
one end, put on the glue and ironed them from the back. Never had one
to come unglued. The stock roll was donated by a local plywood maker.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

If you're right 95% of the time, why
quibble about the remaining 3%?

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Edward Hennessey wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
On 7/15/2010 12:09 AM, Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The
belt
...
...When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
after a few pressured revolutions.

...

I'm not betting against your probability. What is the storage life
on
taped abrasive belts?

Klingspor has been cited in the past as a good bonded abrasive
source.
Does anyone have further ideas on any initial customer
qualifications and comparable quality? We could consolidate a good
order especially if
they offer diamond abrasives for stone work.
...

I have had the conversation w/ Klingspor engineering on the issue.
I'll try to dig out the correspondence if I get a moment and post
same. Was interesting insight.

They don't (because their supplier doesn't) warrant the adhesive for
over a year and had no retail supply for replacement. My experience
is in cool storage they'll last longer than that reliably but not
indefinitely as the posting shows.

Despite that disappointment I still think the Klingspor is as good a
value as there is for individuals and small production folks that
I'm aware of you just have to be aware of how long you'll take to
use up inventory and plan purchasing in accordance. In my case I
went from active moderately high volume usage to just the occasional
personal use after the move and it was several years.

--

dpb:

Good considerations to keep in mind. If you bump into the Klingspor
correspondence, I'm sure we'll all be ears.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"Jeff Gorman" wrote in message
...

"Edward Hennessey" wrote

I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
joint after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just
for the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

The following might, or might not, be useful -
http://tinyurl.com/25y9vpp

--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net



JG:

Good link. I've saved the information from the page. Thanks.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"woodstuff" wrote in message
...
"Edward Hennessey" wrote in message
m...
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just
for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

I've had the same problem for years when using old sanding belts,
and even
on my wide-belt sander. Old belts just blow apart. I got a bunch
of new
sanding belts with my Time Savers that were made in "West
Germany"... date
that! Needless to say, they all blew apart. Cut up, I still use
pieces for
hand sanding.

I faintly recall a special process for sticking these together, but
my old
mind is really weak.
I tried to find it tonight but only found one useful link:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...ing_Belts.html

I don't use a belt sander much anymore, but I use new belts from the
wholesaler when I do.

best wishes, woodstuff

WS:

I appreciate the link and copied it.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
woodstuff wrote:

I've had the same problem for years when using old sanding belts,
and even
on my wide-belt sander. Old belts just blow apart. I got a bunch
of new sanding belts with my Time Savers that were made in "West
Germany"... date
that! Needless to say, they all blew apart. Cut up, I still use
pieces for
hand sanding.

My 6x48" sanding belts are old, really, really old, like 20 years or
more. They have held up well but when they fail, it of course is
along the glue line. If they just blow apart due to glue failure,
the fix is simple.

I faintly recall a special process for sticking these together, but
my old
mind is really weak.
I tried to find it tonight but only found one useful link:

I did no research, but had some super glue gel laying around. I
spread the glue on the seam, put a paper towel under the belt to
stop gluing the belt to itself, and pressed the seam together with a
strip of wood. This glue dries in 10 seconds so clamps are not even
needed. The seam is a 1/4" lap joint on these belts. I think they
are originally glued with a similar glue. I initially was afraid
the glue would be too brittle, but so far, so good.

JS:

Interesting. I have a friend that formulates cyanoacrylate glues and
will ask
him which concoction he suggests.

Regards,

Edward Hennessey



--
Jack
Take risks: If you win, you'll be happy; if you lose, you'll be
wise.
http://jbstein.com

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
Josepi wrote:
Are those belts not glued together by a long angular joint that
encompasses the whole belt circumference?

My belts have a long angular joint across the width of the belt.

This would make the belt pretty hard to tape together. Some sort of
adhesive would be in order.

The joint is a half lap joint. As long as the break is clean, it is
simple to line it up perfectly, it's really automatic since it's a
half lap joint. Tape, hot melt glue would not work. Super glue gel
works great, and is simple since the glue dries in seconds, and is
thin enough that the seam is not raised, and is just as flat as it
was at the factory.

I just did this two weeks ago, and after several uses it's holding
up fine. Can't say it will hold up forever or not, but I can say,
for certain, it will hold up for two weeks and about an hour of
sanding...

Saved me an emergency trip to Granger and it took almost zero effort
to fix.

It could be very hard to get the belts to track properly after
repair.

Tracking was not an issue, since the joints line up perfectly with
little fuss. A bump at the seam is no problem since super glue is
thin, even the gel type. Hot melt and tape I would think would fail
to work at all.
J:
A citation earlier in the thread led to a company selling tape
dedicated to the
purpose; thickness is evidently a big issue as their offerings topped
out at
6.5 microns.
Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message
...
Is there enough room to hot glue?

MK:

Not really. There's also the "bump" issue with the thickness of the
glue
and the idea that if it gets hot while circling around the platten it
may
whip apart again.

Thanks,

Edward Hennessey

Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
joint after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just
for the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just
for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey



If the ends overlap, you can use elmer's glue and fix by ironing
with a household iron. If they but up then you will need some kind
of cloth tape.

We use to make our own in school shop by cutting from a roll at a
diagonal so they would overlap by approx an inch. Then using a
grinding stone in a DeWalt radial arm saw we ground off the grid on
one end, put on the glue and ironed them from the back. Never had
one to come unglued. The stock roll was donated by a local plywood
maker.

GR:

These belts butt up with the tape overlapping that line.

We use some large, stationary Somaca belt sanders as well and it would
be interesting to see if some of this belt material could be cut for
use on smaller
machines. The notion that it might be possible to fabricate belts from
new roll
stock also poses possibilities; hopefully, some of them might deal
with saving
money.

As to your second paragraph, my head is a little hard. Does "grinding
off the
grid" mean you are grinding each end of the cut roll for a half lap
joint? What
kind of glue was successful for you?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Edward Hennessey wrote:
"Gerald wrote in message
...
Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just
for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey



If the ends overlap, you can use elmer's glue and fix by ironing
with a household iron. If they but up then you will need some kind
of cloth tape.

We use to make our own in school shop by cutting from a roll at a
diagonal so they would overlap by approx an inch. Then using a
grinding stone in a DeWalt radial arm saw we ground off the grid on
one end, put on the glue and ironed them from the back. Never had
one to come unglued. The stock roll was donated by a local plywood
maker.

GR:

These belts butt up with the tape overlapping that line.

We use some large, stationary Somaca belt sanders as well and it would
be interesting to see if some of this belt material could be cut for
use on smaller
machines. The notion that it might be possible to fabricate belts from
new roll
stock also poses possibilities; hopefully, some of them might deal
with saving
money.

As to your second paragraph, my head is a little hard. Does "grinding
off the
grid" mean you are grinding each end of the cut roll for a half lap
joint? What
kind of glue was successful for you?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Grid is my mistyping of grit. That was over 50 years ago but I believe
we only ground one end.
As I said, we used Elmer's glue. Yellow wood glue would probably work
the same.


--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

If you're right 95% of the time, why
quibble about the remaining 3%?

Josepi wrote:
I would have thought it would have to be an adhesive that stays soft. Lots
of bending going on. The superglue gets hard (I thought) and may only be
good for ..repair use for a few hours, breaks the next time.

You would think so, but so far, so good. I did the repair over 2 weeks
ago and I've been sanding with it ever since. Yesterday I sanded a box
I made with box joints. I always make them a little proud and sand the
**** out of them. This is one of the harder tasks for my sander and if
the joint is going to break, this will do it. Held up perfectly.

I should look at my box full of belts. They are quite old now. I moved and
still haven't even found my sander...thinking I have one...maybe?...LOL

My belts are all 20 years old. They are working fine and are just now
beginning to break prematurely, thus, the reason I tried the super glue.
I can't say they will hold up forever since forever hasn't arrived, but
I can tell you for sure the super glue has far exceeded my expectations
and it has held up for over 2 weeks.

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
Josepi wrote:
Are those belts not glued together by a long angular joint that
encompasses
the whole belt circumference?

My belts have a long angular joint across the width of the belt.

This would make the belt pretty hard to tape together. Some sort of
adhesive
would be in order.

The joint is a half lap joint. As long as the break is clean, it is
simple to line it up perfectly, it's really automatic since it's a half
lap joint. Tape, hot melt glue would not work. Super glue gel works
great, and is simple since the glue dries in seconds, and is thin enough
that the seam is not raised, and is just as flat as it was at the factory.

I just did this two weeks ago, and after several uses it's holding up
fine. Can't say it will hold up forever or not, but I can say, for
certain, it will hold up for two weeks and about an hour of sanding...

Saved me an emergency trip to Granger and it took almost zero effort to fix.

It could be very hard to get the belts to track properly after repair.

Tracking was not an issue, since the joints line up perfectly with
little fuss. A bump at the seam is no problem since super glue is thin,
even the gel type. Hot melt and tape I would think would fail to work
at all.



--
Jack
Got Change: 50 States ==== 57 States, not counting Alaska and Hawaii!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpGH02DtIws
http://jbstein.com

dpb wrote:
Joe AutoDrill wrote:
"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Looks like he solved his own probelm with some superglue.

Yep. I read that (didn't know it was him...) and figured it would
last a few days but that the glue was too brittle to last longer.

It was Jack Stein who said he had had success that way, not OP.

I'll have to try it; didn't think there would be much chance w/ it,
either so haven't done so. The info I got from Klingspor engineering is
what they use is a thermo- or UV-curable adhesive. I've not found the
communications, unfortunately; don't recall what I must've done w/ them
but not in any of the logical places (or at seem what to be logical now;
who knows what was thinking of then.. )

The glue I used was DURO QUICK GEL. I normally use it for gluing
leather cue tips to my pool cue. It's made my Locktite I believe and is
sold at Kmart, or used to be. The stuff dries in 10 seconds under
pressure, so clamping is not even needed. I pressed it firmly with a
hunk of wood across the joint and a paper towel under the joint. No
glue seeped out the top, but some did get on the paper towel, so I was
glad I took that precaution. I made sure I covered the entire joint
generously as some glue soaks into the cloth.

About my only concern now is will the glue get too brittle? It's been
over two weeks, and the glue dries in 10 seconds, so I'm feeling pretty
confident.

There may well be a better glue for this, but while all my instincts
said it wouldn't work, it has worked well.


--
Jack
Assault is a behavior, not a device.
http://jbstein.com

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
Edward Hennessey wrote:
"Gerald wrote in message
...
Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The
belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard
plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out.
Just
for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts
are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey



If the ends overlap, you can use elmer's glue and fix by ironing
with a household iron. If they but up then you will need some
kind
of cloth tape.

We use to make our own in school shop by cutting from a roll at a
diagonal so they would overlap by approx an inch. Then using a
grinding stone in a DeWalt radial arm saw we ground off the grid
on
one end, put on the glue and ironed them from the back. Never had
one to come unglued. The stock roll was donated by a local
plywood
maker.

GR:

These belts butt up with the tape overlapping that line.

We use some large, stationary Somaca belt sanders as well and it
would
be interesting to see if some of this belt material could be cut
for
use on smaller
machines. The notion that it might be possible to fabricate belts
from
new roll
stock also poses possibilities; hopefully, some of them might deal
with saving
money.

As to your second paragraph, my head is a little hard. Does
"grinding
off the
grid" mean you are grinding each end of the cut roll for a half lap
joint? What
kind of glue was successful for you?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Grid is my mistyping of grit. That was over 50 years ago but I
believe we only ground one end.
As I said, we used Elmer's glue. Yellow wood glue would probably
work the same.

GR:

Oh, you're human too. My favorite strategic mistyping of all time was
a marketing
letter addressed "Dear Suctomer".

Thanks again,

Edward Hennessey

"Jack Stein" wrote in message
...
dpb wrote:
Joe AutoDrill wrote:
"Josepi" wrote in message
...
Looks like he solved his own probelm with some superglue.

Yep. I read that (didn't know it was him...) and figured it would
last a few days but that the glue was too brittle to last longer.

It was Jack Stein who said he had had success that way, not OP.

I'll have to try it; didn't think there would be much chance w/ it,
either so haven't done so. The info I got from Klingspor
engineering is what they use is a thermo- or UV-curable adhesive.
I've not found the communications, unfortunately; don't recall what
I must've done w/ them but not in any of the logical places (or at
seem what to be logical now; who knows what was thinking of then..
)

The glue I used was DURO QUICK GEL. I normally use it for gluing
leather cue tips to my pool cue. It's made my Locktite I believe
and is sold at Kmart, or used to be. The stuff dries in 10 seconds
under pressure, so clamping is not even needed. I pressed it firmly
with a hunk of wood across the joint and a paper towel under the
joint. No glue seeped out the top, but some did get on the paper
towel, so I was glad I took that precaution. I made sure I covered
the entire joint generously as some glue soaks into the cloth.

About my only concern now is will the glue get too brittle? It's
been over two weeks, and the glue dries in 10 seconds, so I'm
feeling pretty confident.

There may well be a better glue for this, but while all my instincts
said it wouldn't work, it has worked well.

JS:

Thanks for naming the cyanoacrylate. If it holds barnacles to hulls,
that
says something. A nod to you for prospecting among unlikely
alternatives
before giving up the ship and saying "trash".

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

On Fri, 16 Jul 2010 09:21:34 -0700, Edward Hennessey wrote:

"Gerald Ross" wrote in message
...
Edward Hennessey wrote:
"Gerald wrote in message
...
Edward Hennessey wrote:
I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The
belt
abrasive and
fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
joint
after a few
pressured revolutions.

The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard
plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out.
Just
for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.

Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts
are
usable?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey



If the ends overlap, you can use elmer's glue and fix by ironing
with a household iron. If they but up then you will need some
kind
of cloth tape.

We use to make our own in school shop by cutting from a roll at a
diagonal so they would overlap by approx an inch. Then using a
grinding stone in a DeWalt radial arm saw we ground off the grid
on
one end, put on the glue and ironed them from the back. Never had
one to come unglued. The stock roll was donated by a local
plywood
maker.

GR:

These belts butt up with the tape overlapping that line.

We use some large, stationary Somaca belt sanders as well and it
would
be interesting to see if some of this belt material could be cut
for
use on smaller
machines. The notion that it might be possible to fabricate belts
from
new roll
stock also poses possibilities; hopefully, some of them might deal
with saving
money.

As to your second paragraph, my head is a little hard. Does
"grinding
off the
grid" mean you are grinding each end of the cut roll for a half lap
joint? What
kind of glue was successful for you?

Regards,

Edward Hennessey

Grid is my mistyping of grit. That was over 50 years ago but I
believe we only ground one end.
As I said, we used Elmer's glue. Yellow wood glue would probably
work the same.

GR:

Oh, you're human too. My favorite strategic mistyping of all time was
a marketing
letter addressed "Dear Suctomer".



Somewhere around here I have a copy of
"Hurst Boilers Trouble Sooting Guide"

basilisk

Edward Hennessey wrote:
....

a marketing letter addressed "Dear Suctomer".
....

To head of department while in uni...

Dr. Prof. What's his name
Department of Unclear Engineering

--