I’ll preface this... I have an (ancient by todays standards) older B&D 10"
regular miter saw (no compound, no sliding, etc.) It is so old that the
"blade brake" has fallen off, not that I ever really used it. It's always
been plenty accurate and "tight". The only down side I've found, is it
won't make it through x by 6 material. To cut a 1x6 or 2x6, I have to raise
the board up. I have a good table saw but in the "right tool for the right
job" spirit, I'm thinking it may be time to upgrade to a better miter saw.

Suggestions... keeping in mind, I'm no longer doing this for a living, my
budget is not unlimited, and the meager tool I'm used to.

Thanks for any suggestions

Ed

"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in
:

I’ll preface this... I have an (ancient by todays standards) older
B&D 10" regular miter saw (no compound, no sliding, etc.) It is so
old that the "blade brake" has fallen off, not that I ever really used
it. It's always been plenty accurate and "tight". The only down side
I've found, is it won't make it through x by 6 material. To cut a 1x6
or 2x6, I have to raise the board up. I have a good table saw but in
the "right tool for the right job" spirit, I'm thinking it may be time
to upgrade to a better miter saw.

Suggestions... keeping in mind, I'm no longer doing this for a living,
my budget is not unlimited, and the meager tool I'm used to.

Thanks for any suggestions

Ed



Dust collection and adjustable fence would be the features I'd look for.
Dust collection is difficult to implement well after purchasing the saw,
and a SCMS produces a lot of dust. An adjustable fence is important to
make sure it's square to the blade, and parallel to the boards. My
Kobalt SCMS fence started cupping to no longer be parallel to the board
edge, and the only thing I could do was replace it.

FWIW, it seems the 10" blades are more common and will probably be a
little cheaper. If the saw comes with a 40T blade you'll probably want
to replace it with a cross cut (80T+) blade soon.

Puckdropper
--
Never teach your apprentice everything you know.

"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message
...
I’ll preface this... I have an (ancient by todays standards) older B&D
10" regular miter saw (no compound, no sliding, etc.) It is so old that
the "blade brake" has fallen off, not that I ever really used it. It's
always been plenty accurate and "tight". The only down side I've found,
is it won't make it through x by 6 material. To cut a 1x6 or 2x6, I have
to raise the board up. I have a good table saw but in the "right tool for
the right job" spirit, I'm thinking it may be time to upgrade to a better
miter saw.

Suggestions... keeping in mind, I'm no longer doing this for a living, my
budget is not unlimited, and the meager tool I'm used to.

In that case I won't mention my 12" Milwaukee that I really like.

Thanks for any suggestions

Ed

Max

On Apr 7, 11:19*pm, "Max" wrote:
"Ed Edelenbos" wrote in message

...

I’ll preface this... *I have an (ancient by todays standards) older B&D
10" regular miter saw (no compound, no sliding, etc.) *It is so old that
the "blade brake" has fallen off, not that I ever really used it. *It's
always been plenty accurate and "tight". *The only down side I've found,
is it won't make it through x by 6 material. *To cut a 1x6 or 2x6, I have
to raise the board up. *I have a good table saw but in the "right tool for
the right job" spirit, I'm thinking it may be time to upgrade to a better
miter saw.

Suggestions... keeping in mind, I'm no longer doing this for a living, my
budget is not unlimited, and the meager tool I'm used to.

In that case I won't mention my 12" Milwaukee that I really like.

If it's the one I'm looking at, it is one nice machine. From where I'm
sitting, it is another 600 smackeroonies MORE to go to the Kapex...
And just like their drills, there is a point where Festool becomes
ridiculous. I have played with the Kapex, it is fantastic. And if I
were a trim carpenter, and 30+ years younger, I'd be all over that
puppy.
That big old Milwaukee seems nice. (I should have never sold that LS
1013 Makita, but I just wasn't using it at the time.)
Now things have changed again, now I need to reinvest in another big
ol' chopsaw.

On 4/7/2010 10:41 PM, Robatoy wrote:

(I should have never sold that LS
1013 Makita, but I just wasn't using it at the time.)

Mine is holding up fine despite wearing out two Forrest Chopmasters down
through the years.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 4/7/2010 10:41 PM, Robatoy wrote:

(I should have never sold that LS
1013 Makita, but I just wasn't using it at the time.)


Mine is holding up fine despite wearing out two Forrest Chopmasters down
through the years.


My LS1013 is about 6 years old and gets used often. I'm not a pro but
I'm constantly doing work for friends and relatives. It's still dead
nuts accurate.

I looked at Mikita's web site and the saw is now the LS1016L. 10" with
a laser. Google shows it to be about $450. In my opinion it's well
worth the money.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

"Robatoy" wrote

If it's the one I'm looking at, it is one nice machine. From where I'm
sitting, it is another 600 smackeroonies MORE to go to the Kapex...
And just like their drills, there is a point where Festool becomes
ridiculous. I have played with the Kapex, it is fantastic. And if I
were a trim carpenter, and 30+ years younger, I'd be all over that
puppy.
That big old Milwaukee seems nice. (I should have never sold that LS
1013 Makita, but I just wasn't using it at the time.)
Now things have changed again, now I need to reinvest in another big
ol' chopsaw.

The only thing I'm not pleased with is dust collection. It doesn't suck. It
doesn't even collect very well and the outlet is an odd oblong shape that is
going to be difficult to adopt to my dust collector.
But rest assured; it will be done.

Max

On 4/8/2010 10:12 AM, Nova wrote:
Swingman wrote:
On 4/7/2010 10:41 PM, Robatoy wrote:

(I should have never sold that LS
1013 Makita, but I just wasn't using it at the time.)


Mine is holding up fine despite wearing out two Forrest Chopmasters
down through the years.


My LS1013 is about 6 years old and gets used often. I'm not a pro but
I'm constantly doing work for friends and relatives. It's still dead
nuts accurate.

I looked at Mikita's web site and the saw is now the LS1016L. 10" with a
laser. Google shows it to be about $450. In my opinion it's well worth
the money.

My tool inventory spreadsheet shows that I paid $489 for the LS1013 in
2001, so they are either getting less expensive, or the product has
gotten "cheaper" in quality?

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
On 4/8/2010 10:12 AM, Nova wrote:

Swingman wrote:

On 4/7/2010 10:41 PM, Robatoy wrote:

(I should have never sold that LS
1013 Makita, but I just wasn't using it at the time.)



Mine is holding up fine despite wearing out two Forrest Chopmasters
down through the years.


My LS1013 is about 6 years old and gets used often. I'm not a pro but
I'm constantly doing work for friends and relatives. It's still dead
nuts accurate.

I looked at Mikita's web site and the saw is now the LS1016L. 10" with a
laser. Google shows it to be about $450. In my opinion it's well worth
the money.


My tool inventory spreadsheet shows that I paid $489 for the LS1013 in
2001, so they are either getting less expensive, or the product has
gotten "cheaper" in quality?


When I bought mine I think the normal "list" price was about $640. I
bought it one sale at Home Depot for about the same price you paid.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Thanks for any suggestions

Ed

OK, I rarely if ever admit this and I can just hear the laughter
coming but...

My name is Bill W and I have a 12" Craftsman slider that I bought a
year ago on sale for $229. I was totally without when I had to return
a borrowed unit and I was just going to buy a $99 10" non-slider to
get me by until I could afford a 12" Milwaukee or Hitachi, etc. Then I
saw the sale. It has served me very well and I haven't found the need
to replace it.

Honestly, I NEVER rely on my cutoff saw to do square cuts; I just use
it for rough length. The only time I use it for finish cuts is
compound miters and some less critical flat miters. I put on a better
blade, tweak the adjustment and move slow and get perfect cuts when I
need them.

As a disclaimer I do have some real tools like a Powermatic TS and
Shaper, etc.

P.S. I did break a part of the saw (totally my fault) while under the
one year warranty and Sears was great, calling me every few days with
an update and apologizing for a few days delay in getting and
installing the replacement part.

Replying at the bottom of the list of replies... all suggestions are
appreciated. Now to make *my* mind up...

Ed



"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...


Thanks for any suggestions

Ed

OK, I rarely if ever admit this and I can just hear the laughter
coming but...

My name is Bill W and I have a 12" Craftsman slider that I bought a
year ago on sale for $229. I was totally without when I had to return
a borrowed unit and I was just going to buy a $99 10" non-slider to
get me by until I could afford a 12" Milwaukee or Hitachi, etc. Then I
saw the sale. It has served me very well and I haven't found the need
to replace it.

Honestly, I NEVER rely on my cutoff saw to do square cuts; I just use
it for rough length. The only time I use it for finish cuts is
compound miters and some less critical flat miters. I put on a better
blade, tweak the adjustment and move slow and get perfect cuts when I
need them.

As a disclaimer I do have some real tools like a Powermatic TS and
Shaper, etc.

P.S. I did break a part of the saw (totally my fault) while under the
one year warranty and Sears was great, calling me every few days with
an update and apologizing for a few days delay in getting and
installing the replacement part.