hello, my beloved 12" makita slider was just stolen and i'm coing to
replace it with a 10 inch to improve the accuracy of my cuts. With a
twelve inch blade the cut of bannister parts would sometimes be
slightly convex. Anyway, the 10" makita has rightside bevel cutting
capacity limitations so im thinking about getting the bosch or the
good old hitatchi c10fsh. Are there any strong opinions about the
either? The bosch is a little plasticky/gadjetty but maybe they got it
right? The table and fence on the hitatchi are just a little tiny.
Any input will bve greatly appreciated. thanks, chris.

I JUST BOUGHT A 10" HATACHI (C10FSH ) DUAL BEVEL SLIDE
ARRIVES TODAY FROM AMAZON $388.00 W/FREE SHIPPING
WILL TELL YOU HOW I LIKE IT LATER

wrote in message
...
hello, my beloved 12" makita slider was just stolen and i'm coing to
replace it with a 10 inch to improve the accuracy of my cuts. With a
twelve inch blade the cut of bannister parts would sometimes be
slightly convex. Anyway, the 10" makita has rightside bevel cutting
capacity limitations so im thinking about getting the bosch or the
good old hitatchi c10fsh. Are there any strong opinions about the
either? The bosch is a little plasticky/gadjetty but maybe they got it
right? The table and fence on the hitatchi are just a little tiny.
Any input will bve greatly appreciated. thanks, chris.

"Roemax" wrote in message
news:ehVuj.11192$wG2.2063@trndny09...
I JUST BOUGHT A 10" HATACHI (C10FSH ) DUAL BEVEL SLIDE
ARRIVES TODAY FROM AMAZON $388.00 W/FREE SHIPPING
WILL TELL YOU HOW I LIKE IT LATER


When you do, please don't use all caps.

On Feb 19, 11:44*pm, wrote:
hello, my beloved 12" makita slider was just stolen and i'm coing to
replace it with a 10 inch to improve the accuracy of my cuts. With a
twelve inch blade the cut of bannister parts would sometimes be
slightly convex. Anyway, the 10" makita has rightside bevel cutting
capacity limitations so im thinking about getting the bosch or the
good old hitatchi c10fsh. Are there any strong opinions about the
either? The bosch is a little plasticky/gadjetty but maybe they got it
right? The table and fence on the hitatchi are just a little tiny.
Any input will bve greatly appreciated. thanks, chris.

One of our saws for about 10 years (homebuilding) was a Bosch 3915 and
it was my favorite saw. An employee nagged us to buy it so we sold it
a couple years ago and replaced it with a 5412L. In my opinion Bosch
hit the nail on the head with the improvements. The up-front controls
are really nice. The fence could be a little better in my opinion but
its fine for everything we do in a homebuilding setting (trim/
millwork, crown, staris, etc.). Running a thin kerf blade we have the
same problem you mention and the 12" saw does have some flexure so
accuracy is definatey affected if you dont plan for it. I have never
used a slider that didnt have some flex. For me personally though, I
use the flex to my advantage "cheating in" cuts and can eliminate when
I want to but I am use to the saw. Dont know what blades you run but
we dont have concave the problem with Freud's industrial blades. Our
only problem with sliders that if you just grab and cut (employees) I
dont think big sliders are the best option for high precision work.
Other features of the new bosch are very nice, the ergo handle is
great, extension wings, onboard wrench/phillips for blade changes. I
really like the saw myself.

That said, if accuracy is you aim, do you really need the slider? Its
handy but if you are building stairs (sounds like it?) maybe a 12"
dual bevel miter saw and a blade change is a better fit? I use the
slider so much now I dont know how I would do without it but for quick/
precision, if I didnt need the travel, I would have a straight miter
saw. But thats just me.

Mark

O
n Feb 20, 7:45 am, BDBConstruction wrote:

thanks for your insight, the slider is really handy for mitered skirts
etc., and its what I'm accustomed to using. I believe that the curve
in the cuts is not due to head deflection because i was VERY careful
to let the saw do the work for especially troublesome cuts. I use a
freud, but maybe not an industrial one. Reflecting on your comment the
problem might lie in my sharpening service. perhaps their grind is/was
causing the blade to walk within the cut. Still i think a 10" must
reduce the deflection. I think I'll give the bosch a run and the
factory service shop is 6 blocks from my house. hopefully once set up
it will remain true. thanks chris

On Feb 20, 8:17*pm, wrote:
O
n Feb 20, 7:45 am, BDBConstruction wrote:

thanks for your insight, the slider is really handy for mitered skirts
etc., and its what I'm accustomed to using. I believe that the curve
in the cuts is not due to head deflection because i was VERY careful
to let the saw do the work for especially troublesome cuts. I use a
freud, but maybe not an industrial one. Reflecting on your comment the
problem might lie in my sharpening service. perhaps their grind is/was
causing the blade to walk within the cut. Still i think a 10" must
reduce the deflection. *I think I'll give the bosch a run and the
factory service shop is 6 blocks from my house. hopefully once set up
it will remain true. thanks * *chris

Festool's got a miter saw coming, and I'm betting it's excellent. For
$1500, it oughta be...

JP
*************************
CTD, Pistorius, Omga?

A little known phenomenon when making miter cuts is that the wood will
"creep". As the blade cuts through the wood, whether a straight cut or a
miter, the blade pulls the wood. When straight cutting the wood is pulled
into the fence and the cut tends to be straight and square. During a miter
cut the blade "pulls" the wood "along" the fence in the direction opposite to
the blade, and can result in a "curve" in the cut. Cutting more slowly
minimizes but doesn't eliminate this phenomenon.

To check if this is the problem, clamp the wood securely to the fence or
table and make a miter cut. If the cut is true with no "curve", then you've
discovered that the problem is caused by "freehand" holding of the workpiece.


I seldom clamp small pieces of my work now because I've become accustomed to
putting a very tight "squeeze" with my hand onto the wood and the fence. If
the wood "creeps" you can usually feel it once you know how to sense it. I
still may use a clamp for larger pieces of crown molding or dimensional
lumber.

Hope this info is helpful.


Cheers.

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