On Dec 6, 7:00*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

...



.

Depth of cut adjustment?

Most major brand SCMS have a dept of cut adjustment so that the blade will
only go down a predetermined distance.

Item 1.4 on this pdfhttp://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/kapex_ks_120.pdf

Festool will do anything for a grand.

Page 7, stopper Armhttp://www.makita.com/en-us/Assets/Images/Products/LS1214L/owners_man...

Intended to keep the blade out of the base (to prevent metal on metal
- a handy thing), not as a dado depth adjustment. I know I'd I'd
never trust dados on a SCMS.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
for Forrest?

They have different blades (hook angles) for different saws. In the
self destruct test I described above, that was to simulate what could
happen on a RAS if the wrong blade was used and it could result in the
blade being pulled into the work more aggressively than the operator
was expecting.

And how does that "injure the tools"?


Try to visualize a blade pulling too aggressively into a board and actually
climbing higher in the cut. I saw it happen a few times with my old RAS
30+ years ago. Typically the motor blade assy. tries to climb up on top of
the board, stalls and becomes lodged in that position. Naturally the arm,
shaft or base gives as the blade climbs up higher in the cut. This repeated
action will weaken and eventually damage the saw.

This can easily happen with the correct blade, this is the nature of the
beast, but with the wrong blade the situation can be aggravated.

On Dec 6, 6:33*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"krw" wrote in message

...



We drove up to Birmingham yesterday so I stopped by Woodcraft. *All of
their Forrest blades had the good for: with pictures of a RAS, Cabinet
saw, SCMS, and all but one had a picture of a contractor's saw. *No
idea why a contractor's saw is any different than a cabinet saw,
but...

May I suggest you go directly to the Forrest site?

http://www.forrestblades.com/http://...om/online_cata...

You may have been looking at thin kerf blades. *Typically a contractors will
cut faster with a thin kerf blade.

They don't want the blade to cut faster? The blade in question did
*not* have the contractor's saw pictured but did have a cabinet saw.

Additionally because the RAS is typically going to be doing more cross
cutting than ripping the WW1 has more teeth. *When there are more teeth
during cross cutting you get a smoother cut.

Oh, good grief. *Do you always keep your rip blade on your table saw?

I do not use a rip blade, at all. *I have always for the last 20 years *used
a general purpose/combination blade for ALL cuts. *For the last 10 years I
have only used a Forrest WW2 regular kerf blade on my saw. *I have two. *I
switch them out when I send the dull one out for resharpening.

I use a combination blade for ripping but usually a blade with a lot
more teeth for crosscuts. My point was that of course different
blades are used for different purposes, but that has nothing to do
with the discussion at hand. I'm not even arguing that a blade
designed for a RAS won't cut as well on a table saw (though I'm not
completely buying the difference between a RAS and SCMS). The point
that I'm arguing (against) is that somehow a blade designed for a
table saw will somehow "injure" a RAS. *THAT* is what I'm calling
bull****.

wrote in message
...
On Dec 6, 6:33 pm, "Leon" wrote:

I use a combination blade for ripping but usually a blade with a lot
more teeth for crosscuts. My point was that of course different
blades are used for different purposes, but that has nothing to do
with the discussion at hand. I'm not even arguing that a blade
designed for a RAS won't cut as well on a table saw (though I'm not
completely buying the difference between a RAS and SCMS). The point
that I'm arguing (against) is that somehow a blade designed for a
table saw will somehow "injure" a RAS. *THAT* is what I'm calling
bull****.

Check my reply to JClark below. You have to admit that that senerio
could/eventually will cause harm to the saw. I too don't believe that a
particular blade will absolutely do harm but it can increase the chance of
doing harm.

----- Original Message -----
From:
Newsgroups: rec.woodworking
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 6:59 AM
Subject: Radial arm saw versus 12" compund sliding miter saw question.


On Dec 6, 7:00 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

...



.

Depth of cut adjustment?

Most major brand SCMS have a dept of cut adjustment so that the blade
will
only go down a predetermined distance.

Item 1.4 on this pdfhttp://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/kapex_ks_120.pdf

Festool will do anything for a grand.

This is not uncommon and just because Festool is exspensice does not
discredit the fact that many sliders have this feature.



Page 7, stopper
Armhttp://www.makita.com/en-us/Assets/Images/Products/LS1214L/owners_man...

Intended to keep the blade out of the base (to prevent metal on metal
- a handy thing), not as a dado depth adjustment. I know I'd I'd
never trust dados on a SCMS.

No, the stoper arm is for control of cut depth. Look again. There are two
boss locations. One is absolutely to limit the ultimate blade depth, the
swing out thumb screw adjustable bolt is for adjusting the depth of cut.

Leon wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
for Forrest?

They have different blades (hook angles) for different saws. In the
self destruct test I described above, that was to simulate what
could happen on a RAS if the wrong blade was used and it could
result in the blade being pulled into the work more aggressively
than the operator was expecting.

And how does that "injure the tools"?


Try to visualize a blade pulling too aggressively into a board and
actually climbing higher in the cut. I saw it happen a few times
with my old RAS 30+ years ago. Typically the motor blade assy. tries
to climb up on top of the board, stalls and becomes lodged in that
position. Naturally the arm, shaft or base gives as the blade climbs
up higher in the cut. This repeated action will weaken and
eventually damage the saw.

I'm not denying that one can stall an RAS. In fact I believe I stated that
that was what would happen. However if it cannot withstand without damage
any force that the motor can produce then it is a poorly designed piece of
crap.

This can easily happen with the correct blade, this is the nature of
the beast, but with the wrong blade the situation can be aggravated.

Leon wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
for Forrest?
They have different blades (hook angles) for different saws. In the
self destruct test I described above, that was to simulate what could
happen on a RAS if the wrong blade was used and it could result in the
blade being pulled into the work more aggressively than the operator
was expecting.
And how does that "injure the tools"?


Try to visualize a blade pulling too aggressively into a board and actually
climbing higher in the cut. I saw it happen a few times with my old RAS
30+ years ago. Typically the motor blade assy. tries to climb up on top of
the board, stalls and becomes lodged in that position. Naturally the arm,
shaft or base gives as the blade climbs up higher in the cut.

I had this happen many times with my old Monkey Wards RAS. I was able
to reduce it with proper tensioning of the motor guides and the straight
arm pull through technique and negative hook blade. My current Searz
RAS with the "control cut" motorized feed cable along with the other
techniques has completely eliminated any climb during a cross cut.

This repeated
action will weaken and eventually damage the saw.

It can sure knock it out of alignment.


This can easily happen with the correct blade, this is the nature of the
beast, but with the wrong blade the situation can be aggravated.

"Leon" wrote

Check my reply to JClark below. You have to admit that that senerio
could/eventually will cause harm to the saw. I too don't believe that a
particular blade will absolutely do harm but it can increase the chance of
doing harm.

Speaking of harm to a radial arm saw, I had a friend who kept a big RAS in
my garage for awhile. He needed to cut up some aluminum that he bought at a
salvage yard. Most of it was soft and the saw cut it easily. Then he ran
across an oddball peice that was extra hard.

He tried to pull it through the piece and it went up and over it. It bent
the arm up. After that, it cut a nice little curve upwards. If I had to do a
dado, it would curve up about 3/16' - 1/4' over nine inches. I had to cut
the dado from both sides and chisel out the high spot in the middle. That is
when I went to a router for my dadoes.

It is an extreme example, I know. But these saws can get damaged if you put
enough stress on it. That priciple applies to anything mechanical or
biological. The other lesson learned here, you can never tell exactly what
it is that you get at the salvage yard. That is the fun part for me. But I
would never cut aluminum on a RAS.

On Dec 7, 9:56*am, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:
"Leon" *wrote

Check my reply to JClark below. *You have to admit that that senerio
could/eventually will cause harm to the saw. *I too don't believe that a
particular blade will absolutely do harm but it can increase the chance of
doing harm.

Speaking of harm to a radial arm saw, I had a friend who kept a big RAS in
my garage for awhile. He needed to cut up some aluminum that he bought at a
salvage yard. *Most of it was soft and the saw cut it easily. *Then he ran
across an oddball peice that was extra hard.

He tried to pull it through the piece and it went up and over it. It bent
the arm up. After that, it cut a nice little curve upwards. If I had to do a
dado, it would curve up about 3/16' - 1/4' over nine inches. I had to cut
the dado from both sides and chisel out the high spot in the middle. That is
when I went to a router for my dadoes.

It is an extreme example, I know. But these saws can get damaged if you put
enough stress on it. That priciple applies to anything mechanical or
biological. The other lesson learned here, you can never tell exactly what
it is that you get at the salvage yard. That is the fun part for me. But I
would never cut aluminum on a RAS.

I bet if you ran over a RAS with a tank it would bend the arm too.
That's a bit different than the "wrong" blade "injuring the saw" which
is still bull****.

wrote in message
...
On Dec 7, 9:56 am, "Lee Michaels"


I bet if you ran over a RAS with a tank it would bend the arm too.
That's a bit different than the "wrong" blade "injuring the saw" which
is still bull****.

Well Keith it is obvious that you have made up your mind. Some things are
simply hard to comprehend.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

I'm not denying that one can stall an RAS. In fact I believe I stated
that
that was what would happen. However if it cannot withstand without
damage
any force that the motor can produce then it is a poorly designed piece of
crap.


Yeah... and ... that might by why most RAS's have such a bad reputation, why
many are always out of calibration.

But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on the cut.
That will cause undue stress to something.

"Doug Winterburn" wrote in message
...

I had this happen many times with my old Monkey Wards RAS. I was able to
reduce it with proper tensioning of the motor guides and the straight arm
pull through technique and negative hook blade. My current Searz RAS with
the "control cut" motorized feed cable along with the other techniques has
completely eliminated any climb during a cross cut.


My Old Craftsman RAS was a 1978 model and I noticed in later years the
electronic adjustments were added to some models and the control cut. Does
the control cut actually feed the motor and blade or does it regulate the
rate of speed that you pull?

On Dec 7, 10:52*am, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Dec 7, 9:56 am, "Lee Michaels"

I bet if you ran over a RAS with a tank it would bend the arm too.
That's a bit different than the "wrong" blade "injuring the saw" which
is still bull****.

Well Keith it is obvious that you have made up your mind. *Some *things are
simply hard to comprehend.

Yes, I've made my mind up to the obvious.

I will agree that some blades are better in (designed for) some tools,
producing superior results. Perhaps even that some designs may reduce
kick-back or climbing (perhaps reducing the possibility injury to the
operator). However, "injury" to the tool is just silly.

Do note that there are *MANY* blades that are specified to be used in
all like tools, so the original argument is a dumb one. It certainly
is possible to use the same blade on a RAS, table saw, and SCMS. Yes,
you folks have done a good job of convincing me that you're talking
bull****.

BTW, please fix your newsreader's quoting.

Leon wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

I'm not denying that one can stall an RAS. In fact I believe I
stated that
that was what would happen. However if it cannot withstand without
damage
any force that the motor can produce then it is a poorly designed
piece of crap.


Yeah... and ... that might by why most RAS's have such a bad
reputation, why many are always out of calibration.

But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on the
cut. That will cause undue stress to something.

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the "undue
stress".

Leon wrote:
"Doug Winterburn" wrote in message
...
I had this happen many times with my old Monkey Wards RAS. I was able to
reduce it with proper tensioning of the motor guides and the straight arm
pull through technique and negative hook blade. My current Searz RAS with
the "control cut" motorized feed cable along with the other techniques has
completely eliminated any climb during a cross cut.


My Old Craftsman RAS was a 1978 model and I noticed in later years the
electronic adjustments were added to some models and the control cut. Does
the control cut actually feed the motor and blade or does it regulate the
rate of speed that you pull?


It regulates the outbound speed of the motor on the arm and is
adjustable with a thumb wheel. It also retracts the motor if you let go
of the motor. The motor on/off switch is on the end of the arm, and the
control cut activation trigger switch is on the motor handle. You can't
move the motor outward without pulling the trigger and then only at the
rate set by the thumb wheel.

krw wrote:

Oh, good grief. Do you always keep your rip blade on your table saw?


Yes, as a matter of fact. That's because 90% of what I do on it is
ripping...that's what table saws were designed for.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

J. Clarke wrote:
Leon wrote:
But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on the
cut. That will cause undue stress to something.

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the
"undue stress".

No one can design anything to withstand every type of "undue stress" caused
by idiots or the ill informed. Look at computers...

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Dec 7, 11:58*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
krw wrote:
Oh, good grief. *Do you always keep your rip blade on your table saw?

Yes, as a matter of fact. *That's because 90% of what I do on it is
ripping...that's what table saws were designed for.

That may be what they're best at but hardly all they were designed
for. I suppose yours doesn't have a miter slot either.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the "undue
stress".

That comment reminds me of the short little story my college physics
professor told us.

The once was a wagon with no weakest points. One day it disintegrated.


I have never ever ever ever seen any thing build close to that wagon.

"Doug Winterburn" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:



It regulates the outbound speed of the motor on the arm and is adjustable
with a thumb wheel. It also retracts the motor if you let go of the
motor. The motor on/off switch is on the end of the arm, and the control
cut activation trigger switch is on the motor handle. You can't move the
motor outward without pulling the trigger and then only at the rate set by
the thumb wheel.

Sort of like a drag on a fishing reel? I can see how that could have been
handy.

On Dec 7, 12:23*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message

...

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the "undue
stress".

That comment reminds me of the short little story my college physics
professor told us.

The once was a wagon with no weakest points. *One day it disintegrated.

I have never ever ever ever seen any thing build close to that wagon.

The corollary, which is more appropriate here, is that if anything can
be adjusted it needs to be. A RAS is nothing but a pile of
adjustments.

dadiOH wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Leon wrote:
But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on the
cut. That will cause undue stress to something.

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the
"undue stress".

No one can design anything to withstand every type of "undue stress"
caused by idiots or the ill informed. Look at computers...

Uh, we aren't talking about "every type of undue stress caused by idiots or
the uninformed", we are talking about an obvious kind of stress that any
engineer should expect to be encountered by the saw during normal operation.
They know what motor they put on it, they know how much torque it produces,
they know the moment arm, they know the ramp angle, from that it's easy to
calculate how much stress it's going to put on the arm if it stalls.

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
dadiOH wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Leon wrote:
But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on the
cut. That will cause undue stress to something.

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the
"undue stress".

No one can design anything to withstand every type of "undue stress"
caused by idiots or the ill informed. Look at computers...

Uh, we aren't talking about "every type of undue stress caused by idiots
or
the uninformed",

Uh, I thought we "were" talking about "idiot's" your word ;~) using the
wrong blade on a machine.

On Dec 7, 1:53*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message

...

dadiOH wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Leon wrote:
But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on the
cut. That will cause undue stress to something.

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the
"undue stress".

No one can design anything to withstand every type of "undue stress"
caused by idiots or the ill informed. *Look at computers...

Uh, we aren't talking about "every type of undue stress caused by idiots
or
the uninformed",

Uh, I thought we "were" talking about "idiot's" *your word ;~) *using the
wrong blade on a machine.

No, it's you who defends the ludicrous idea that blades cannot be
interchanged between saw types without "injuring" the iron.

wrote in message
...

No, it's you who defends the ludicrous idea that blades cannot be
interchanged between saw types without "injuring" the iron.


I'm sure you are right.

On Mon, 7 Dec 2009 13:53:13 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
dadiOH wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Leon wrote:
But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on the
cut. That will cause undue stress to something.

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the
"undue stress".

No one can design anything to withstand every type of "undue stress"
caused by idiots or the ill informed. Look at computers...

Uh, we aren't talking about "every type of undue stress caused by idiots
or
the uninformed",

Uh, I thought we "were" talking about "idiot's" your word ;~) using the
wrong blade on a machine.


LOL. Try as you may, I doubt you will ever convince him his logic is
flawed.

Gordon Shumway

Our Constitution needs to be used less as a shield
for the guilty and more as a sword for the victim.

On Dec 7, 2:23*pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...

No, it's you who defends the ludicrous idea that blades cannot be
interchanged between saw types without "injuring" the iron.

I'm sure you are right.

I know I am. Please fix your newsreader.

wrote:
On Dec 6, 7:00 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

...



.

Depth of cut adjustment?
Most major brand SCMS have a dept of cut adjustment so that the blade will
only go down a predetermined distance.
Item 1.4 on this pdfhttp://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/kapex_ks_120.pdf

Festool will do anything for a grand.

Page 7, stopper Armhttp://www.makita.com/en-us/Assets/Images/Products/LS1214L/owners_man...

Intended to keep the blade out of the base (to prevent metal on metal
- a handy thing), not as a dado depth adjustment. I know I'd I'd
never trust dados on a SCMS.

Not in the case of Dewalt 718 as the base has a plastic insert and turns
as you change the miter angle so there's no chance of hitting a metal base.

Owner manual:
http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/docu...00%20DW718.pdf

on page 9, column 3 refers to it as a "grooving stop" whose purpose is
to limit the depth of a groove. Multiple grooves stopped at the same
depth provide a dado.

~Mark.

wrote:
On Dec 6, 7:00 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

...



.

Depth of cut adjustment?
Most major brand SCMS have a dept of cut adjustment so that the blade will
only go down a predetermined distance.
Item 1.4 on this pdfhttp://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/kapex_ks_120.pdf

Festool will do anything for a grand.

Page 7, stopper Armhttp://www.makita.com/en-us/Assets/Images/Products/LS1214L/owners_man...

Intended to keep the blade out of the base (to prevent metal on metal
- a handy thing), not as a dado depth adjustment. I know I'd I'd
never trust dados on a SCMS.

Not in the case of Dewalt 718 as the base has a plastic insert and turns
as you change the miter angle so there's no chance of hitting a metal base.

Owner manual:
http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/docu...00%20DW718.pdf

on page 9, column 3 refers to it as a "grooving stop" whose purpose is
to limit the depth of a groove. Multiple grooves stopped at the same
depth provide a dado.

~Mark.

Leon wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
dadiOH wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Leon wrote:
But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on the
cut. That will cause undue stress to something.

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the
"undue stress".

No one can design anything to withstand every type of "undue stress"
caused by idiots or the ill informed. Look at computers...

Uh, we aren't talking about "every type of undue stress caused by
idiots or
the uninformed",

Uh, I thought we "were" talking about "idiot's" your word ;~) using
the wrong blade on a machine.

In what post did I make this statement? Perhaps you have me confused with
someone else?

Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Mon, 7 Dec 2009 13:53:13 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
dadiOH wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Leon wrote:
But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on
the cut. That will cause undue stress to something.

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the
"undue stress".

No one can design anything to withstand every type of "undue
stress" caused by idiots or the ill informed. Look at computers...

Uh, we aren't talking about "every type of undue stress caused by
idiots or
the uninformed",

Uh, I thought we "were" talking about "idiot's" your word ;~)
using the wrong blade on a machine.


LOL. Try as you may, I doubt you will ever convince him his logic is
flawed.

What's flawed about the logic of expecting engineers to design tools so that
they don't destroy themselves in normal use?

On Dec 7, 2:47*pm, Woody wrote:
wrote:
On Dec 6, 7:00 pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message

om...

.

Depth of cut adjustment?
Most major brand SCMS have a dept of cut adjustment so that the blade will
only go down a predetermined distance.
Item 1.4 on this pdfhttp://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/kapex_ks_120.pdf

Festool will do anything for a grand.

Page 7, stopper Armhttp://www.makita.com/en-us/Assets/Images/Products/LS1214L/owners_man...

Intended to keep the blade out of the base (to prevent metal on metal
- a handy thing), not as a dado depth adjustment. *I know I'd I'd
never trust dados on a SCMS.

Not in the case of Dewalt 718 as the base has a plastic insert and turns
as you change the miter angle so there's no chance of hitting a metal base.

The manual on the Makita referenced above indicated that the control
was for differing blade diameters rather than the miter angle
(adjusting the thing for every angle would be a PITA).

Owner manual:http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/docu...uction%20Manua...

on page 9, column 3 refers to it as a "grooving stop" whose purpose is
to limit the depth of a groove. Multiple grooves stopped at the same
depth provide a dado.

I looked quickly at the DW717(?) but didn't see any mention of a depth
stop. I've never used a decent SCMS, so didn't know about such a
feature. I'd likely never use it, preferring either a table saw,
router, or RAS, in that order.

wrote:
On Dec 7, 11:58 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
krw wrote:
Oh, good grief. Do you always keep your rip blade on your table saw?

Yes, as a matter of fact. That's because 90% of what I do on it is
ripping...that's what table saws were designed for.

That may be what they're best at but hardly all they were designed
for. I suppose yours doesn't have a miter slot either.

Yeah, it has a miter slot. Damned useless when I want to chop of 2' from an
8' x6"x2" piece of oak.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Mon, 7 Dec 2009 15:57:36 -0500, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Gordon Shumway wrote:
On Mon, 7 Dec 2009 13:53:13 -0600, "Leon"
wrote:


"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
dadiOH wrote:
J. Clarke wrote:
Leon wrote:
But the stall happens after the blade has climbed up higher on
the cut. That will cause undue stress to something.

Only if the "something" is not properly designed to withstand the
"undue stress".

No one can design anything to withstand every type of "undue
stress" caused by idiots or the ill informed. Look at computers...

Uh, we aren't talking about "every type of undue stress caused by
idiots or
the uninformed",

Uh, I thought we "were" talking about "idiot's" your word ;~)
using the wrong blade on a machine.


LOL. Try as you may, I doubt you will ever convince him his logic is
flawed.

What's flawed about the logic of expecting engineers to design tools so that
they don't destroy themselves in normal use?


Let me try to explain the major flaw in your logic. You said in an
earlier post "However if it cannot withstand without damage any force
that the motor can produce then it is a poorly designed piece of
crap."

With that mindset automotive engineers had to have known that there
would be an occasional accident with their products. Of course they
knew this. Then, by your logic they should have designed the cars,
should an accident occur, to need no repairs, right? Therefore, if
what you said had even the slightest bit of credibility you should be
able to explain the existence of automotive body shops.

Please enlighten all of us as to why there are automotive body shops
or any other repair facility for anything. According to you, nothing
should break.


Gordon Shumway

Our Constitution needs to be used less as a shield
for the guilty and more as a sword for the victim.

"dadiOH" wrote in message
...
wrote:
On Dec 7, 11:58 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
krw wrote:
Oh, good grief. Do you always keep your rip blade on your table saw?

Yes, as a matter of fact. That's because 90% of what I do on it is
ripping...that's what table saws were designed for.

That may be what they're best at but hardly all they were designed
for. I suppose yours doesn't have a miter slot either.

Yeah, it has a miter slot. Damned useless when I want to chop of 2' from
an 8' x6"x2" piece of oak.


What you need is a better miter gauge or sled. ;~) I was doing almost that
a couple of weeks ago. 2, 1x6 oak 8' long with 2 more the same size clamped
in front. Basically I had a 2x12. I needed all to be exactly the same
length. I clamped all the pieces together so that they would not slip and
then clamped the group to my miter gauge.
A friend arrived as I was getting ready to make the cut. I told him to not
try this at home. All went well, no excitement and I ended with what I
expected.

wrote in message
...
On Dec 7, 2:23 pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...

No, it's you who defends the ludicrous idea that blades cannot be
interchanged between saw types without "injuring" the iron.

I'm sure you are right.

I know I am. Please fix your newsreader.



fix what?

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
Uh, we aren't talking about "every type of undue stress caused by
idiots or
the uninformed",

Uh, I thought we "were" talking about "idiot's" your word ;~) using
the wrong blade on a machine.

In what post did I make this statement? Perhaps you have me confused with
someone else?


You said,,

Uh, we aren't talking about "every type of undue stress caused by idiots or
the uninformed",

in response to dadOH

I said that I thought that we were talking about someone using the wrong
blade on a tool, which would possibly cause undue stress.

Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Dec 7, 2:23 pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...

No, it's you who defends the ludicrous idea that blades cannot be
interchanged between saw types without "injuring" the iron.

I'm sure you are right.

I know I am. Please fix your newsreader.



fix what?

Not properly quoting the post you are responding to, it isn't offset by ''
or another generally accepted character.

Note, just pointing it out, in my opinion your knowledge of the subject
(woodworking) offsets this deficiency.
;-)

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

wrote in message
...

The manual on the Makita referenced above indicated that the control
was for differing blade diameters rather than the miter angle
(adjusting the thing for every angle would be a PITA).

Ummm... comprehension...

The manual you are refering to indicates the need to check the "Lower limit
position" when installing a "new blade", not a smaller blade.
That is the instruction for maintaining maximum cutting capacity. When an
old blade is sharpened time and again it becomes slightly smaller in
diameter. You need to readjust the maximum depth for maximum cutting
capacity.
That adjustment is for that particualr blade. When you put a new blade on
it will be slightly larger and the adjustment will need to be performed
again to maintain maximum cutting capacity.

Farther down where I referred is the Stopper Arm instruction. This shows
the swing the arm with thumb screw and how to adjust for different depths
of cut.

"FrozenNorth" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Dec 7, 2:23 pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...

No, it's you who defends the ludicrous idea that blades cannot be
interchanged between saw types without "injuring" the iron.

I'm sure you are right.

I know I am. Please fix your newsreader.



fix what?
Not properly quoting the post you are responding to, it isn't offset by
''
or another generally accepted character.

Note, just pointing it out, in my opinion your knowledge of the subject
(woodworking) offsets this deficiency.
;-)


I was just poking the bee's nest again. ;~)