This forum was helpful in troubleshooting my problem, so I wanted to
contribute my findings.

I've had a Grizzly G1023S for about 6 years. It's a fantastic saw,
but it stopped running yesterday. I pressed the start button, and for
a fraction of a second it got juice, then nothing. I wasn't able to
get anything after that point.

Here is the troubleshooting process I should have used:
- Use a multimeter to verify 240V at the wall. Should be approx 240V.
- Open the magnetic start switch (If you look very closely at the
bottom of the switch, the word "open" is molded into the plastic.
Push there.)

With the saw plugged into the 240V outlet:
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L1 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L3 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.

With the saw unplugged:
- Verify the resistance between the ground on the plug and ground
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
- Verify the resistance between one power prong on the plug and L1
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Verify the resistance between the other power prong on the plug and
L3 inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)

This confirmed my problem. I checked the length of the power cord,
and it was all intact. I knew it must be in the plug. When I opened
the end of the plug, I found the red wire was broken where it connects
to the power prong. I wired up a replacement and I'm back in
business.

I hope this helps someone else.

Burke LaShell wrote:
This forum was helpful in troubleshooting my problem, so I wanted to
contribute my findings.

I've had a Grizzly G1023S for about 6 years. It's a fantastic saw,
but it stopped running yesterday. I pressed the start button, and for
a fraction of a second it got juice, then nothing. I wasn't able to
get anything after that point.

Here is the troubleshooting process I should have used:
- Use a multimeter to verify 240V at the wall. Should be approx 240V.
- Open the magnetic start switch (If you look very closely at the
bottom of the switch, the word "open" is molded into the plastic.
Push there.)

With the saw plugged into the 240V outlet:
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L1 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L3 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.

With the saw unplugged:
- Verify the resistance between the ground on the plug and ground
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
- Verify the resistance between one power prong on the plug and L1
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Verify the resistance between the other power prong on the plug and
L3 inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)

This confirmed my problem. I checked the length of the power cord,
and it was all intact. I knew it must be in the plug. When I opened
the end of the plug, I found the red wire was broken where it connects
to the power prong. I wired up a replacement and I'm back in
business.

I hope this helps someone else.
Nicely done. Kudos.
jo4hn

On Nov 22, 3:49*pm, Burke LaShell wrote:
This forum was helpful in troubleshooting my problem, so I wanted to
contribute my findings.

I've had a Grizzly G1023S for about 6 years. *It's a fantastic saw,
but it stopped running yesterday. *I pressed the start button, and for
a fraction of a second it got juice, then nothing. *I wasn't able to
get anything after that point.

Here is the troubleshooting process I should have used:
- Use a multimeter to verify 240V at the wall. *Should be approx 240V.
- Open the magnetic start switch (If you look very closely at the
bottom of the switch, the word "open" is molded into the plastic.
Push there.)

With the saw plugged into the 240V outlet:
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L1 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.
* * **** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L3 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.

With the saw unplugged:
- Verify the resistance between the ground on the plug and ground
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
- Verify the resistance between one power prong on the plug and L1
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
* * **** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Verify the resistance between the other power prong on the plug and
L3 inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)

This confirmed my problem. *I checked the length of the power cord,
and it was all intact. *I knew it must be in the plug. *When I opened
the end of the plug, I found the red wire was broken where it connects
to the power prong. *I wired up a replacement and I'm back in
business.

I hope this helps someone else.

Dang. Nice test procedure. I have had a 1023s for about 6-7 years
and have also been happy. Hope I'm not next in line. But if so, I
know what to do.

RonB

"Burke LaShell" wrote in message
...
This forum was helpful in troubleshooting my problem, so I wanted to
contribute my findings.

Well after giving me a initial case of heartburn with possible buyers
remorse .....your trouble shooting and easy resolution gave me great
relief.... I just ordered Griz 1023SL last week....Thanks Rod



I've had a Grizzly G1023S for about 6 years. It's a fantastic saw,
but it stopped running yesterday. I pressed the start button, and for
a fraction of a second it got juice, then nothing. I wasn't able to
get anything after that point.

Here is the troubleshooting process I should have used:
- Use a multimeter to verify 240V at the wall. Should be approx 240V.
- Open the magnetic start switch (If you look very closely at the
bottom of the switch, the word "open" is molded into the plastic.
Push there.)

With the saw plugged into the 240V outlet:
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L1 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L3 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.

With the saw unplugged:
- Verify the resistance between the ground on the plug and ground
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
- Verify the resistance between one power prong on the plug and L1
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Verify the resistance between the other power prong on the plug and
L3 inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)

This confirmed my problem. I checked the length of the power cord,
and it was all intact. I knew it must be in the plug. When I opened
the end of the plug, I found the red wire was broken where it connects
to the power prong. I wired up a replacement and I'm back in
business.

I hope this helps someone else.

"Rod & BJ Jacobson" wrote in message
acquisition...

"Burke LaShell" wrote in message
...
This forum was helpful in troubleshooting my problem, so I wanted to
contribute my findings.

Well after giving me a initial case of heartburn with possible buyers
remorse .....your trouble shooting and easy resolution gave me great
relief.... I just ordered Griz 1023SL last week....Thanks Rod


I'm am shopping from the same catalog! What made you choose The Grizzly
1023
over the Grizzly G0690? Price benefit/value? Riving knife not important?

Congratulations on your new saw! I hope you'll share your experience with
delivery/setup.

Bill

"Bill" wrote in message
...
I'm am shopping from the same catalog! What made you choose The Grizzly
1023
over the Grizzly G0690? Price benefit/value? Riving knife not important?

Congratulations on your new saw! I hope you'll share your experience with
delivery/setup.

Bill


It was a tough choice especially since price (for once) wasn't the defining
issue but off their web site the 1023SL is currently 25% off ($795 + $94
shipping) so I guess perceived value trumped a slight riving knife
preference, interestingly the G0690 ($1125 + $144 shipping) is about 75lbs
heavier so I hope the slight ease of getting the lighter saw into my
basement shop isn't sacrificed against a possibly more substantial saw. I
did like the overall impression of the 1023SL from reviews and its proven
track record..... I've rarely seen anyone complain about the 1023......
Turkey Day (I do a large dinner) and a new saw in the same week should make
a interesting priority choice G. Indeed I'll pass along my shipping/setup
impressions......Rod

Rod & BJ Jacobson wrote:

Turkey Day (I do a large dinner) and a new saw in the same week should make
a interesting priority choice G.

If it were me, I couldn't think of a better "after TG-dinner activity"
than to help get that ~300 pound box into the basement while you've got
some able-bodied family members around. It might even turn into some
sort of a contest... : )

I may be one of the few around here that like the cast iron router
table extension (most likely, because I'm a beginner and don't have
another router table). I think it is an attractive add-on for the
price--and I don't believe its an option on the G0690.

I hope that moving your saw into the basement is not too difficult.
Gravity is on your side. Are you going to use a refrigerator dolly?
Good luck!

Bill

"Burke LaShell" wrote in message
...
This forum was helpful in troubleshooting my problem, so I wanted to
contribute my findings.

I've had a Grizzly G1023S for about 6 years. It's a fantastic saw,
but it stopped running yesterday. I pressed the start button, and for
a fraction of a second it got juice, then nothing. I wasn't able to
get anything after that point.

Here is the troubleshooting process I should have used:
- Use a multimeter to verify 240V at the wall. Should be approx 240V.
- Open the magnetic start switch (If you look very closely at the
bottom of the switch, the word "open" is molded into the plastic.
Push there.)

With the saw plugged into the 240V outlet:
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L1 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L3 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.

With the saw unplugged:
- Verify the resistance between the ground on the plug and ground
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
- Verify the resistance between one power prong on the plug and L1
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Verify the resistance between the other power prong on the plug and
L3 inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)

This confirmed my problem. I checked the length of the power cord,
and it was all intact. I knew it must be in the plug. When I opened
the end of the plug, I found the red wire was broken where it connects
to the power prong. I wired up a replacement and I'm back in
business.

I hope this helps someone else.

That is what is so great about this group. People helping people Warren

On Sun, 22 Nov 2009 21:55:10 -0800, "Rod & BJ Jacobson"
wrote:


"Burke LaShell" wrote in message
...
This forum was helpful in troubleshooting my problem, so I wanted to
contribute my findings.

Well after giving me a initial case of heartburn with possible buyers
remorse .....your trouble shooting and easy resolution gave me great
relief.... I just ordered Griz 1023SL last week....Thanks Rod



[...snip...]

No need to feel any buyers remorse. I have the same saw. It's a great
saw.

Of course, like any comparable saw, the blade guard/splitter assembly
is total crap.

Jim

Jim Weisgram wrote:

Of course, like any comparable saw, the blade guard/splitter assembly
is total crap.

Jim

So where is the first step where apologies like this don't have to be
made? Does the Grizzly G0690 qualify?

Bill

On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 10:21:20 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Jim Weisgram wrote:

Of course, like any comparable saw, the blade guard/splitter assembly
is total crap.

Jim

So where is the first step where apologies like this don't have to be
made? Does the Grizzly G0690 qualify?

Bill

I haven't seen the G0690 in action so I don't know. Overall the TS
certainly looks like a winner for Grizzly. But as for the blade guard?
Hard to judge what you haven't seen.

What to look for? In my book:

* Can you raise the cover up and have it stay in place while you line
up your cut with the blade? Don't know about the cover on the G0650.

* Can you see through the cover? Some saws with riving knives come
with metal covers. The Griz uses polycarbonate, a good choice.

* Is it mechanically solid? The blade guard on my 1023 is wobbly and
more than once has slid over an contacted the blade, which then
merrily grinds away at the cover. Generally on a miter cut. Probably
to do with the overall size of the metal "splitter" assembly. A saw
with a riving knife system will by it's nature have a smaller and
probably stiffer piece of metal holding the blade guard. Possibly a
safety issue, maybe no more than an annoyance.

* Are the pawls functional? Some pawls won't prevent a piece of wood
from sliding back towards the operator. I've heard some people deal
with this by sharpening them. Hmm, hopefully not so sharp you can cut
yourself on them.

* How easy to put in and remove the riving knife? How easy to
adjust/align? The G0690 looks to have a good system for putting in and
taking off and aligning it.

* It looks like you access the mechanism to unlock and remove the
riving knife through a cut out in the left rear of the throat plate. I
would guess that means an extra step when making a zero clearance
throat plate. Maybe that is a better arrangement than accessing the
mechanism while holding up the throat plate to get access to the lock
under the table topo.

Jim,

I learned a lot from your post. Thank you!

Bill

"Jim Weisgram" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 10:21:20 -0500, Bill
wrote:

Jim Weisgram wrote:

Of course, like any comparable saw, the blade guard/splitter assembly
is total crap.

Jim

So where is the first step where apologies like this don't have to be
made? Does the Grizzly G0690 qualify?

Bill

I haven't seen the G0690 in action so I don't know. Overall the TS
certainly looks like a winner for Grizzly. But as for the blade guard?
Hard to judge what you haven't seen.

What to look for? In my book:

* Can you raise the cover up and have it stay in place while you line
up your cut with the blade? Don't know about the cover on the G0650.

* Can you see through the cover? Some saws with riving knives come
with metal covers. The Griz uses polycarbonate, a good choice.

* Is it mechanically solid? The blade guard on my 1023 is wobbly and
more than once has slid over an contacted the blade, which then
merrily grinds away at the cover. Generally on a miter cut. Probably
to do with the overall size of the metal "splitter" assembly. A saw
with a riving knife system will by it's nature have a smaller and
probably stiffer piece of metal holding the blade guard. Possibly a
safety issue, maybe no more than an annoyance.

* Are the pawls functional? Some pawls won't prevent a piece of wood
from sliding back towards the operator. I've heard some people deal
with this by sharpening them. Hmm, hopefully not so sharp you can cut
yourself on them.

* How easy to put in and remove the riving knife? How easy to
adjust/align? The G0690 looks to have a good system for putting in and
taking off and aligning it.

* It looks like you access the mechanism to unlock and remove the
riving knife through a cut out in the left rear of the throat plate. I
would guess that means an extra step when making a zero clearance
throat plate. Maybe that is a better arrangement than accessing the
mechanism while holding up the throat plate to get access to the lock
under the table topo.

On Sunday, November 22, 2009 at 3:49:48 PM UTC-6, Burke LaShell wrote:
This forum was helpful in troubleshooting my problem, so I wanted to
contribute my findings.

I've had a Grizzly G1023S for about 6 years. It's a fantastic saw,
but it stopped running yesterday. I pressed the start button, and for
a fraction of a second it got juice, then nothing. I wasn't able to
get anything after that point.

Here is the troubleshooting process I should have used:
- Use a multimeter to verify 240V at the wall. Should be approx 240V.
- Open the magnetic start switch (If you look very closely at the
bottom of the switch, the word "open" is molded into the plastic.
Push there.)

With the saw plugged into the 240V outlet:
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L1 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Use a multimeter to verify the voltage between L3 and ground.
Should be approx 120V.

With the saw unplugged:
- Verify the resistance between the ground on the plug and ground
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
- Verify the resistance between one power prong on the plug and L1
inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)
*** THIS WAS MY PROBLEM ***
- Verify the resistance between the other power prong on the plug and
L3 inside the switch (should be approx 0 Ohms)

This confirmed my problem. I checked the length of the power cord,
and it was all intact. I knew it must be in the plug. When I opened
the end of the plug, I found the red wire was broken where it connects
to the power prong. I wired up a replacement and I'm back in
business.

I hope this helps someone else.


Burke;
Thanks for the post - it inspired me to do some troubleshooting along the lines of what you documented when my Grizzly 1023 stopped working suddenly. I have had some issues intermittently with the saw shutting off for no apparent reason and then restarting after a slight pause. No signs that the motor was fatigued so I suspected something electrical. Anyways, today it stopped and did not restart. I saw your post and started down the same path you outlined (after replacing the batteries on my volt meter of course). In the end I had a wire at the plug that had come loose. It was very obvious when I opened up the plug and saw the wire blackened and almost fully disconnected. Anyways, after stripping the wires back and rewiring the plug it worked perfectly (nice to hear the soft hum of the Grizzly again). I'm not sure if this was the factory plug or had been replaced by the previous owner since I bought it second hand but definitely something to keep an eye on.

Thanks for the inspiration and for spelling out the thought process.
JimC