More good news about the Kerfmaker from BridgeCity tools.

Most new products prices include shipping, so if you buy one for $72 that is
all you pay. I preordered, 1/2 down now and the rest when the tool ships in
2-3 weeks.

I posted a drawing on a.b.p.w of one that you could build your self, I was
strongly considering doing this, actually strongly considering making 3 or
4. Mine as is will allow a joint of 2.125" wide. The BridgeCity Tool
Kerfmaker will allow for a joint up to 2" wide according to Natasha at BCT.

On Nov 4, 7:21*pm, "Leon" wrote:
More good news about the Kerfmaker from BridgeCity tools.

Most new products prices include shipping, so if you buy one for $72 that is
all you pay. *I preordered, 1/2 down now and the rest when the tool ships in
2-3 weeks.

I posted a drawing on a.b.p.w of one that you could build your self, I was
strongly considering doing this, actually strongly considering making 3 or
4. * Mine as is will *allow a joint of 2.125" wide. * The BridgeCity Tool
Kerfmaker will allow for a joint up to 2" wide according to Natasha at BCT.

Hi,

I received mine last Monday. I ordered it back in July... Expect some
delays as mine came one and a half month later than expected... But
the wait was well worth it.

It is surprisingly small but such a clever design. I can't wait to
test it out.

BB

"Leon" wrote in message
...
More good news about the Kerfmaker from BridgeCity tools.

Most new products prices include shipping, so if you buy one for $72 that
is all you pay. I preordered, 1/2 down now and the rest when the tool
ships in 2-3 weeks.

I posted a drawing on a.b.p.w of one that you could build your self, I was
strongly considering doing this, actually strongly considering making 3 or
4. Mine as is will allow a joint of 2.125" wide. The BridgeCity Tool
Kerfmaker will allow for a joint up to 2" wide according to Natasha at
BCT.
What's a.b.p.w and where can I see that drawing?

Leon wrote:
More good news about the Kerfmaker from BridgeCity tools.

Most new products prices include shipping, so if you buy one for $72 that is
all you pay. I preordered, 1/2 down now and the rest when the tool ships in
2-3 weeks.

I did the same right after watching the video. I've wanted one of those
for a long time - I just didn't know what it looked like. :-/

I posted a drawing on a.b.p.w of one that you could build your self, I was
strongly considering doing this, actually strongly considering making 3 or
4. Mine as is will allow a joint of 2.125" wide. The BridgeCity Tool
Kerfmaker will allow for a joint up to 2" wide according to Natasha at BCT.

With your drawings to guide me, I'm thinking I'd like to build a big one
in Spring for joints up to 7-1/2" wide...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Morris Dovey" wrote

With your drawings to guide me, I'm thinking I'd like to build a big one
in Spring for joints up to 7-1/2" wide...

--
Will it talk to the CNC router?

"B B" wrote in message
...
On Nov 4, 7:21 pm, "Leon" wrote:


Hi,

I received mine last Monday. I ordered it back in July... Expect some
delays as mine came one and a half month later than expected... But
the wait was well worth it.

It is surprisingly small but such a clever design. I can't wait to
test it out.

BB

The web site indicated December. The girl said 2-3 weeks.

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
More good news about the Kerfmaker from BridgeCity tools.

Most new products prices include shipping, so if you buy one for $72 that
is all you pay. I preordered, 1/2 down now and the rest when the tool
ships in 2-3 weeks.

I did the same right after watching the video. I've wanted one of those
for a long time - I just didn't know what it looked like. :-/

I posted a drawing on a.b.p.w of one that you could build your self, I
was strongly considering doing this, actually strongly considering making
3 or 4. Mine as is will allow a joint of 2.125" wide. The BridgeCity
Tool Kerfmaker will allow for a joint up to 2" wide according to Natasha
at BCT.

With your drawings to guide me, I'm thinking I'd like to build a big one
in Spring for joints up to 7-1/2" wide...


You know Morris when I realized that it would only handle 2" I wondered if
It would be satisfying. hummmm

Uh meee er uh.... I had the same thought. If I need bigger I'll build a
bigger one. The BCT jig is elegant and compact, I thought with smaller
needs that it may be a better choice for the smaller applications.

Because of the intricacy in my drawings and the small parts I think it would
be easier to mill longer pieces and cut up several.

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
...

"Morris Dovey" wrote

With your drawings to guide me, I'm thinking I'd like to build a big one
in Spring for joints up to 7-1/2" wide...

--
Will it talk to the CNC router?



I do believe there is an "app" for that. ;~)

Lee Michaels wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote
With your drawings to guide me, I'm thinking I'd like to build a big one
in Spring for joints up to 7-1/2" wide...

Will it talk to the CNC router?

Probably not. This little gizmo allows the 'Bot to discover everything
it needs to about the workpiece and the cutting tool all by itself...

http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/SuperZero/

....but it doesn't work for the table saw or RAS, which is where I expect
the jig from Bridge City to shine.

I do enough one-off shop projects with 2x stock that I think the larger
size might also be useful.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Dave Balderstone" wrote in message
news:041120091950562710%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_Sbalderst one.ca...
In article , SBH wrote:

What's a.b.p.w and where can I see that drawing?

alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

Thank you

"Leon" wrote in message
...
More good news about the Kerfmaker from BridgeCity tools.

Most new products prices include shipping, so if you buy one for $72 that
is all you pay. I preordered, 1/2 down now and the rest when the tool
ships in 2-3 weeks.

I posted a drawing on a.b.p.w of one that you could build your self, I was
strongly considering doing this, actually strongly considering making 3 or
4. Mine as is will allow a joint of 2.125" wide. The BridgeCity Tool
Kerfmaker will allow for a joint up to 2" wide according to Natasha at
BCT.


I agree it's clever and useful but IMHO about double the price that it
should be. I venture a guess that Rockler will have a knockoff around $30 -
$40 down the road.

On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 20:52:26 -0600, the infamous Morris Dovey
scrawled the following:

Leon wrote:
More good news about the Kerfmaker from BridgeCity tools.

Most new products prices include shipping, so if you buy one for $72 that is
all you pay. I preordered, 1/2 down now and the rest when the tool ships in
2-3 weeks.

I did the same right after watching the video. I've wanted one of those
for a long time - I just didn't know what it looked like. :-/

I posted a drawing on a.b.p.w of one that you could build your self, I was
strongly considering doing this, actually strongly considering making 3 or
4. Mine as is will allow a joint of 2.125" wide. The BridgeCity Tool
Kerfmaker will allow for a joint up to 2" wide according to Natasha at BCT.

With your drawings to guide me, I'm thinking I'd like to build a big one
in Spring for joints up to 7-1/2" wide...

Erm, what kind of MEGAdado blade is that wide, Morris?

--
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson

Vic Baron wrote:

I agree it's clever and useful but IMHO about double the price that it
should be. I venture a guess that Rockler will have a knockoff around
$30 - $40 down the road.

Probably true, and shortly thereafter we may see a Chinese knockoff
going for $9.95.

I thought about that before I ordered - and decided that I liked the
quality of thought behind the gizmo well enough to reward the inventor
for producing what appears to be a good solution to one of my problems.

I suspect everyone's mileage varies on this, but I haven't seen much
inventive problem solving coming out of Rockler's shop or, for that
matter, from Guangzhou or Shanghai - and I've seen less and less of it
in the US (and I'm sure there must be a reason).

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Larry Jaques wrote:

Erm, what kind of MEGAdado blade is that wide, Morris?

It's an ordinary blade making however many passes it takes.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Morris Dovey wrote:
I suspect everyone's mileage varies on this, but I haven't seen much
inventive problem solving coming out of Rockler's shop or, for that
matter, from Guangzhou or Shanghai - and I've seen less and less of it
in the US (and I'm sure there must be a reason).


If nothing else, Rockler's (prices for their) gadgets often inspires me
to build, myself, what they are trying to sell me. Even when their jigs
and such and on sale, they are too expensive for what the are and for
how easy they are to build.

I do love when they have a ridonculous sale on knobs and t-bolts.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Thanks for the drawing.

I hate a.b.p.w... its a personal problem. I use Google reader and so I
have to search for the usnet replayer to find the pictures. It's just
a hassle, why can't there be a link?

So... if you don't mind, I copied the pdf to a linked location here
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/graphi...7391864.40.pdf

On Nov 4, 4:21*pm, "Leon" wrote:
More good news about the Kerfmaker from BridgeCity tools.

Most new products prices include shipping, so if you buy one for $72 that is
all you pay. *I preordered, 1/2 down now and the rest when the tool ships in
2-3 weeks.

I posted a drawing on a.b.p.w of one that you could build your self, I was
strongly considering doing this, actually strongly considering making 3 or
4. * Mine as is will *allow a joint of 2.125" wide. * The BridgeCity Tool
Kerfmaker will allow for a joint up to 2" wide according to Natasha at BCT.

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Vic Baron wrote:

I agree it's clever and useful but IMHO about double the price that it
should be. I venture a guess that Rockler will have a knockoff around
$30 - $40 down the road.

Probably true, and shortly thereafter we may see a Chinese knockoff going
for $9.95.

I thought about that before I ordered - and decided that I liked the
quality of thought behind the gizmo well enough to reward the inventor for
producing what appears to be a good solution to one of my problems.

I suspect everyone's mileage varies on this, but I haven't seen much
inventive problem solving coming out of Rockler's shop or, for that
matter, from Guangzhou or Shanghai - and I've seen less and less of it in
the US (and I'm sure there must be a reason).



I completely agree. And I understand about rewarding the inventor. I just
laid out almost $200 for a product called MortisePal, even though I have
several home made shop mortise jigs. Just thought this one was fast, simple
and almost fool proof and so far it has been a breeze to do loose tenon and
dowel joints with the router.

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

Erm, what kind of MEGAdado blade is that wide, Morris?

It's an ordinary blade making however many passes it takes.



If you put a stacked dado in there to start with it should require far fewer
passes.

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
...
Thanks for the drawing.

You are welcome!


I hate a.b.p.w... its a personal problem. I use Google reader and so I
have to search for the usnet replayer to find the pictures. It's just
a hassle, why can't there be a link?

I understand, I now use a 3rd party to see what's there myself. I may one
day have my own site but it is not on the front burner.



So... if you don't mind, I copied the pdf to a linked location here
http://www.sonomaproducts.com/graphi...7391864.40.pdf

Cool

On Thu, 05 Nov 2009 11:33:28 -0600, the infamous Morris Dovey
scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Erm, what kind of MEGAdado blade is that wide, Morris?

It's an ordinary blade making however many passes it takes.

Holy ****, Batman! You're going to notch out 7.5 INCHES at a bit
under 1/8 inch at a time? You either have autistic or Downs genes in
your line, boy. Nobody normal has patience by that sized truckload.
'Course, normal isn't the norm here on the Wreck, is it?

Why you no use CNC, kemosabe? Maybe stack 6-up on the crosscut sled
with two stops, then CNC 'em out (if you get tearout with your bit.)

--
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson

Larry Jaques wrote:

Holy ****, Batman! You're going to notch out 7.5 INCHES at a bit
under 1/8 inch at a time? You either have autistic or Downs genes in
your line, boy. Nobody normal has patience by that sized truckload.
'Course, normal isn't the norm here on the Wreck, is it?

whisper mode=on
I'm actually more likely to use my ancient Sears wobble dado and cut
3/4" at a time, and it's still possible that I've escaped the bounds of
normality - I'm the only software guy I know of who has taken more than
nine years to get a single program running. Twice.
whisper mode=off

Why you no use CNC, kemosabe? Maybe stack 6-up on the crosscut sled
with two stops, then CNC 'em out (if you get tearout with your bit.)

While I really like the CNC router for precise, intricate production
work, using it for a one-off project usually means writing a part
program, tearing down the fixturing, setting up for this job, debugging
the part program, running my one-off parts, tearing that down, and
reinstalling the original fixturing.

Sometimes it's just easier, more fun, and more satisfying to fire up the
old Unisaur.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

Holy ****, Batman! You're going to notch out 7.5 INCHES at a bit
under 1/8 inch at a time? You either have autistic or Downs genes in
your line, boy. Nobody normal has patience by that sized truckload.
'Course, normal isn't the norm here on the Wreck, is it?

whisper mode=on
I'm actually more likely to use my ancient Sears wobble dado and cut 3/4"
at a time, and it's still possible that I've escaped the bounds of
normality - I'm the only software guy I know of who has taken more than
nine years to get a single program running. Twice.
whisper mode=off

The kerfmaker jig has a 1/2" kerf limitation. ;~( Yeah I know put the
wobbler on after establishing the outside cuts but that involves adjusting
for proper height again.
But if you build a bigger'n ........



Why you no use CNC, kemosabe? Maybe stack 6-up on the crosscut sled
with two stops, then CNC 'em out (if you get tearout with your bit.)

While I really like the CNC router for precise, intricate production work,
using it for a one-off project usually means writing a part program,
tearing down the fixturing, setting up for this job, debugging the part
program, running my one-off parts, tearing that down, and reinstalling the
original fixturing.

Sometimes it's just easier, more fun, and more satisfying to fire up the
old Unisaur.

Yeah! nothing like using your hands a bit more. LOL. CNC is to a TS as a
TS is to Hand Saw.

Leon wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

Erm, what kind of MEGAdado blade is that wide, Morris?
It's an ordinary blade making however many passes it takes.



If you put a stacked dado in there to start with it should require far fewer
passes.

How about making the first and last cuts to establish the 7-1/2" joint
width, take out 95% of the remaining waste with a single cut on the
bandsaw (or jigsaw, depending on the board), then use a dozen or so
passes with the stacked dado to nibble away the rest?

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Thu, 05 Nov 2009 16:23:44 -0600, the infamous Morris Dovey
scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Holy ****, Batman! You're going to notch out 7.5 INCHES at a bit
under 1/8 inch at a time? You either have autistic or Downs genes in
your line, boy. Nobody normal has patience by that sized truckload.
'Course, normal isn't the norm here on the Wreck, is it?

whisper mode=on
I'm actually more likely to use my ancient Sears wobble dado and cut
3/4" at a time, and it's still possible that I've escaped the bounds of
normality - I'm the only software guy I know of who has taken more than
nine years to get a single program running. Twice.
whisper mode=off

Ouchouchouchouchouch.


Why you no use CNC, kemosabe? Maybe stack 6-up on the crosscut sled
with two stops, then CNC 'em out (if you get tearout with your bit.)

While I really like the CNC router for precise, intricate production
work, using it for a one-off project usually means writing a part
program, tearing down the fixturing, setting up for this job, debugging
the part program, running my one-off parts, tearing that down, and
reinstalling the original fixturing.

Sometimes it's just easier, more fun, and more satisfying to fire up the
old Unisaur.

Grok that.

--
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Thu, 05 Nov 2009 22:08:48 -0600, the infamous Steve Turner
scrawled the following:

Leon wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

Erm, what kind of MEGAdado blade is that wide, Morris?
It's an ordinary blade making however many passes it takes.



If you put a stacked dado in there to start with it should require far fewer
passes.

How about making the first and last cuts to establish the 7-1/2" joint
width, take out 95% of the remaining waste with a single cut on the
bandsaw (or jigsaw, depending on the board), then use a dozen or so
passes with the stacked dado to nibble away the rest?

Yeah, endcuts with the TS, then get out my Makita angle grinder with
the Lancelot head on it. We be nibblin' _then_! Arr arr arr!

--
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

Erm, what kind of MEGAdado blade is that wide, Morris?
It's an ordinary blade making however many passes it takes.



If you put a stacked dado in there to start with it should require far
fewer passes.

How about making the first and last cuts to establish the 7-1/2" joint
width, take out 95% of the remaining waste with a single cut on the
bandsaw (or jigsaw, depending on the board), then use a dozen or so passes
with the stacked dado to nibble away the rest?


Why not take it all out with the dado rather than make it a 3 step
operation?

Larry Jaques wrote:

Ouchouchouchouchouch.

No ouches. In retrospect, both efforts seem worthwhile - and both
programs nibbled at the edges of how something might be "known". The
first program dealt with knowledge and context in a "static" sense, and
the second dealt with some of the "dynamics" of knowing. I had planned
to write a third program to explore the interrelatedness of knowledge,
but ran out of time (I guesstimated that the third program would take
more than fifteen years to get right).

Whether any of that was worthwhile for its own sake is uncertain - but
I'm quite sure that the effort added up to good learning experience.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Leon wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...
Larry Jaques wrote:

Erm, what kind of MEGAdado blade is that wide, Morris?
It's an ordinary blade making however many passes it takes.


If you put a stacked dado in there to start with it should require far
fewer passes.
How about making the first and last cuts to establish the 7-1/2" joint
width, take out 95% of the remaining waste with a single cut on the
bandsaw (or jigsaw, depending on the board), then use a dozen or so passes
with the stacked dado to nibble away the rest?


Why not take it all out with the dado rather than make it a 3 step
operation?

So you don't have 7 tons of sawdust and unnecessarily dull your dado blades?

--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

So you don't have 7 tons of sawdust and unnecessarily dull your dado
blades?


Yeah, I'll go with sawdust and dulling my dado blades. I am thinking it is
going to be hard to remove waste from a dado with a BS. And that in
particular is what dado blades are use for. Now I am thinking that I
should use a hand saw so as to not dull my TS blade. ;~)

"Leon" wrote in
:


Yeah, I'll go with sawdust and dulling my dado blades. I am thinking
it is going to be hard to remove waste from a dado with a BS. And
that in particular is what dado blades are use for. Now I am
thinking that I should use a hand saw so as to not dull my TS blade.
;~)


You need a CNC water jet saw. It'll make perfectly precise cuts without
ever dulling the cutting material at all. Get one with an optional laser
attachment, and rabbets and mortises become possible.

Puckdropper
--
U and I are the vowels in Stupid.

"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
...
"Leon" wrote in
:


Yeah, I'll go with sawdust and dulling my dado blades. I am thinking
it is going to be hard to remove waste from a dado with a BS. And
that in particular is what dado blades are use for. Now I am
thinking that I should use a hand saw so as to not dull my TS blade.
;~)


You need a CNC water jet saw. It'll make perfectly precise cuts without
ever dulling the cutting material at all. Get one with an optional laser
attachment, and rabbets and mortises become possible.


Would I need to use a hair dryer on the wood afterward? ;~)

Leon wrote:
"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

So you don't have 7 tons of sawdust and unnecessarily dull your dado
blades?


Yeah, I'll go with sawdust and dulling my dado blades. I am thinking it is
going to be hard to remove waste from a dado with a BS. And that in
particular is what dado blades are use for. Now I am thinking that I
should use a hand saw so as to not dull my TS blade. ;~)

Well, we haven't established what kind of board the 7-1/2 wide joint is
being cut in, have we? If it's a 4" wide board with a 2" deep dado,
then I think *I* will choose to remove the waste with a bandsaw, and I
don't think it would be hard at all. And in *particular*, dado blades
are typically designed to be dialed in to a specific width, say 31/64",
23/32", 3/4", or whatever, using a single pass to receive say, a shelf
board of that particular thickness. If you want to use a dado blade to
hog out 58 cubic inches of of waste wood, be my guest, but it seems
kinda dumb to me. I'd much rather remove the majority of the waste by
other means and simply use the dado blade to smooth out the bottom of
the joint.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

On Fri, 6 Nov 2009 13:13:00 -0600, the infamous "Leon"
scrawled the following:


"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:

So you don't have 7 tons of sawdust and unnecessarily dull your dado
blades?


Yeah, I'll go with sawdust and dulling my dado blades. I am thinking it is
going to be hard to remove waste from a dado with a BS. And that in
particular is what dado blades are use for. Now I am thinking that I
should use a hand saw so as to not dull my TS blade. ;~)

Indeed! Please send pics of you cutting several dozen perfectly flat
7.5" dadoes in oak tubafores with your coping saw. chortle

--
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson

On Fri, 06 Nov 2009 11:49:41 -0600, the infamous Morris Dovey
scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Ouchouchouchouchouch.

No ouches.

Crapsman wobble dado = ouch #1, and that's a biggie.


In retrospect, both efforts seem worthwhile - and both
programs nibbled at the edges of how something might be "known". The
first program dealt with knowledge and context in a "static" sense, and
the second dealt with some of the "dynamics" of knowing. I had planned
to write a third program to explore the interrelatedness of knowledge,
but ran out of time (I guesstimated that the third program would take
more than fifteen years to get right).

And if you don't think that constitutes an ouch, you're freakin'
nerveless!


Whether any of that was worthwhile for its own sake is uncertain - but
I'm quite sure that the effort added up to good learning experience.

In this case, it soitenly reflects the saying "Experience is what you
get when you didn't get what you wanted."

--
"To compel a man to subsidize with his taxes the propagation of
ideas which he disbelieves and abhors is sinful and tyrannical."
-- Thomas Jefferson

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 06 Nov 2009 11:49:41 -0600, the infamous Morris Dovey
scrawled the following:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Ouchouchouchouchouch.
No ouches.

Crapsman wobble dado = ouch #1, and that's a biggie.

Mine cost less than $15 and has done an adequate job at what I've wanted
it to do for almost forty years. For me, that's not an ouch.

That folks whose focus is building fine furniture don't like the
not-perfectly-flat bottomed kerf doesn't bother me. I don't build
furniture, and when I /need/ a flat-bottomed kerf I choose a different
tool. shrug

In retrospect, both efforts seem worthwhile - and both
programs nibbled at the edges of how something might be "known". The
first program dealt with knowledge and context in a "static" sense, and
the second dealt with some of the "dynamics" of knowing. I had planned
to write a third program to explore the interrelatedness of knowledge,
but ran out of time (I guesstimated that the third program would take
more than fifteen years to get right).

And if you don't think that constitutes an ouch, you're freakin'
nerveless!

Hmm - I don't /feel/ nerveless, and for as long as I can remember I've
thought that saying something was "impossible" was a poor excuse for not
making it possible.

The old saw about the impossible just taking a bit longer contains more
than a modicum of truth. I know people who spent more time developing a
better golf game, polishing their musical abilities, or perfecting brush
strokes than I spent on my endeavors.

Whether any of that was worthwhile for its own sake is uncertain - but
I'm quite sure that the effort added up to good learning experience.

In this case, it soitenly reflects the saying "Experience is what you
get when you didn't get what you wanted."

Not so in these cases - I produced demonstratable general solutions to
both entire classes of problems in a form that I could (and did) share
with other people. When I published the first, Steve "the Waz" Wozniac
flew out to take me to dinner and warned me there were perhaps five
people in the world who could understand what I'd done, but we agreed
that the solution was worth the effort - and that I'd opened a new
doorway for others to walk through.

The techniques and methods learned raised the quality of the work that I
did and allowed me to provide the folks who paid me to help solve their
problems with results that were universally better, faster, /and/ less
costly than they expected.

Resources expended are only an "ouch" if wasted. I don't think I've
wasted (or am wasting) much of mine - that's something everyone has to
decide for themselves (and, as Frost pointed out, there are /always/
roads not taken).

I have other things to do with what a stacked dado set would cost, and
other tools that do its job even better. I can live with my wobbler.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...

Crapsman wobble dado = ouch #1, and that's a biggie.

Mine cost less than $15 and has done an adequate job at what I've wanted
it to do for almost forty years. For me, that's not an ouch.

I have to say, I think I still have mine around here some where.



That folks whose focus is building fine furniture don't like the
not-perfectly-flat bottomed kerf doesn't bother me. I don't build
furniture, and when I /need/ a flat-bottomed kerf I choose a different
tool. shrug


snip


Hmm - I don't /feel/ nerveless, and for as long as I can remember I've
thought that saying something was "impossible" was a poor excuse for not
making it possible.

I really cannot say that using the wobble blade make ne nervous either. It
is well balanced.
For me it's drawbacks were rounded bottoms, not so smooth cuts, and damn
hard to accurately adjust the width. IIRC tightening the arbor nut seemed
to always change the width setting.

"Leon" wrote in
:


"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
...

Crapsman wobble dado = ouch #1, and that's a biggie.

Mine cost less than $15 and has done an adequate job at what I've
wanted it to do for almost forty years. For me, that's not an ouch.

I have to say, I think I still have mine around here some where.



That folks whose focus is building fine furniture don't like the
not-perfectly-flat bottomed kerf doesn't bother me. I don't build
furniture, and when I /need/ a flat-bottomed kerf I choose a
different tool. shrug


snip


Hmm - I don't /feel/ nerveless, and for as long as I can remember
I've thought that saying something was "impossible" was a poor excuse
for not making it possible.

I really cannot say that using the wobble blade make ne nervous
either. It is well balanced.
For me it's drawbacks were rounded bottoms, not so smooth cuts, and
damn hard to accurately adjust the width. IIRC tightening the arbor
nut seemed to always change the width setting.


I've got one of those wobble dados in question. It sure does adjust when
tightening the arbor nut. It does good enough in cutting, but boy is it
difficult to adjust the width. If width is important, it's just not
worth the trouble.

Were I hogging out several large sections (say for half lap joinery), it
would be worth using. For box joints or anything where width is
important, it's just not worth it.

Hey Morris, think we could use the sun's rays to make a laser saw?

Puckdropper
--
There is no signature. There is a signature.

Larry Jaques wrote:

Oh, I thought you were doing this on your own time. Getting paid for
it is great, much less of an 'ouch', especially when you solved the
problems.

You were correct. I wasn't paid for solving those problems, but
developing the solutions turned out to be just the learning exercise I
needed to be /invited/ to help solve other interesting problems for
which people were willing to pay more.

I have other things to do with what a stacked dado set would cost, and
other tools that do its job even better. I can live with my wobbler.

Yabbut, it's a _Crapsman_!

Yeah well, what can I say? I bought it in '73 to make a set of trivets
on the RAS for my (now) ex. The trivets came out well enough that the ex
packed 'em carefully when she left. The Sears wobbler, at least, still
works like new.

I think I'll stop talking now. :-/

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Puckdropper wrote:

I've got one of those wobble dados in question. It sure does adjust when
tightening the arbor nut. It does good enough in cutting, but boy is it
difficult to adjust the width. If width is important, it's just not
worth the trouble.

It's possible that I just got lucky, but I haven't had that problem.

Hey Morris, think we could use the sun's rays to make a laser saw?

Ooooo! Nice shiny bait - maybe just a /tiny/ nibble...

Should be do-able *but* I would expect that SWMBO might object
strenuously if the smoke collection system were anything less than
absolutely perfect.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

"Puckdropper" wrote:

I've got one of those wobble dados in question. It sure does adjust
when
tightening the arbor nut. It does good enough in cutting, but boy
is it
difficult to adjust the width. If width is important, it's just not
worth the trouble.

IMHO, damn things don't even make a poor boat anchor..

Good for re-melt in an electric arc furnace.

Lew