After reading the good reviews of Boeshield T9 rust preventative, I
bought some at a wood working show. My new general tablesaw had been
sitting in my garage since I bought it about a month ago. After
cleaning up the gunk manufacturers put on the machines to avoid rust, it
didn't have any protective layer on it, and it looked fine a month
later. Then I bought the Boeshield. Before putting it on, I rubbed the
table down with naphtha, after which I sprayed Boeshield on and wiped
most of it off. The next day I had rust. I cleaned all of it off with
mineral spirits and re-applied Boeshield. Again, the next day I had
rust. I called the company and was just told to "put it on thicker."
After being bitten twice, I'm hesitant to go through it again. Anyone
have any theories? I'm leaning towards simply using Johnson paste wax
on the table top.

-Peter De Smidt

I've got T-9 and it is the BEST product I've ever used to prevent rust.
Better than paste wax. I use SC Johnson's paste wax on all tables
that come in contact with wood. I use the T9 on other metal surfaces
and haven't seen any rust forming on the T9 protected items. I don't
wipe it off like you said you did...

dave

Peter De Smidt wrote:

After reading the good reviews of Boeshield T9 rust preventative, I
bought some at a wood working show. My new general tablesaw had been
sitting in my garage since I bought it about a month ago. After
cleaning up the gunk manufacturers put on the machines to avoid rust, it
didn't have any protective layer on it, and it looked fine a month
later. Then I bought the Boeshield. Before putting it on, I rubbed the
table down with naphtha, after which I sprayed Boeshield on and wiped
most of it off. The next day I had rust. I cleaned all of it off with
mineral spirits and re-applied Boeshield. Again, the next day I had
rust. I called the company and was just told to "put it on thicker."
After being bitten twice, I'm hesitant to go through it again. Anyone
have any theories? I'm leaning towards simply using Johnson paste wax
on the table top.

-Peter De Smidt

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
news
I've got T-9 and it is the BEST product I've ever used to prevent rust.
Better than paste wax. I use SC Johnson's paste wax on all tables
that come in contact with wood. I use the T9 on other metal surfaces
and haven't seen any rust forming on the T9 protected items. I don't
wipe it off like you said you did...

dave


How exactly do you apply it? Just spray it on and walk away?
I tried it but wasn't impressed. It didn't leave a slick surface. Maybe I
didn't apply it properly. I went back to TopCote and have never had rust
problems.

"Peter De Smidt" pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net* wrote in message
...
Then I bought the Boeshield. Before putting it on, I rubbed the
table down with naphtha, after which I sprayed Boeshield on and wiped
most of it off. The next day I had rust. I cleaned all of it off with
mineral spirits and re-applied Boeshield. Again, the next day I had
rust.

My guess is that you are not cleaning the rust off as well as you think.
Just a little staying under the protective coating will just spread.

I recently used Top Saver to clean my saw table top and it removed the rust
and left it looking better than anytime since it was new. Supposedly the
protection
is a notch lower than the T-9, but the cleaning is much better.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

yes, I meant to mention that in my post, but hit send first...

dave

B a r r y wrote:
On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 05:28:52 GMT, Bay Area Dave wrote:


I've got T-9 and it is the BEST product I've ever used to prevent rust.


But then again, you live in one of the nicest climates in the US. G

Barry

Wiping it OFF gives little protection. If you want the level of
protection you desire, you spray it on liberally, let it set, and it
produces a thick, soft, waxy surface that is superb for rust
protection, but SUCKS for use on a table saw TABLE

Use paste wax or something like TopCote on the table, use the
Boeshield elsewhere on the saw.

Again, if you use BoeShield, DO NOT wipe it off, and be sure you shake
the can real well

John

On Tue, 02 Mar 2004 19:05:55 -0600, Peter De Smidt
pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net* wrote:

After reading the good reviews of Boeshield T9 rust preventative, I
bought some at a wood working show. My new general tablesaw had been
sitting in my garage since I bought it about a month ago. After
cleaning up the gunk manufacturers put on the machines to avoid rust, it
didn't have any protective layer on it, and it looked fine a month
later. Then I bought the Boeshield. Before putting it on, I rubbed the
table down with naphtha, after which I sprayed Boeshield on and wiped
most of it off. The next day I had rust. I cleaned all of it off with
mineral spirits and re-applied Boeshield. Again, the next day I had
rust. I called the company and was just told to "put it on thicker."
After being bitten twice, I'm hesitant to go through it again. Anyone
have any theories? I'm leaning towards simply using Johnson paste wax
on the table top.

-Peter De Smidt

Boeshield does NOT and was never intended nor designed to leave a
"slick" surface

Use a different product if that is your goal, pastewax is the tried
and true solution for cast iron table tops, but you gotta apply and
re-apply as neeeded

John

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 09:46:14 GMT, "BeerBoy"
wrote:


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
news
I've got T-9 and it is the BEST product I've ever used to prevent rust.
Better than paste wax. I use SC Johnson's paste wax on all tables
that come in contact with wood. I use the T9 on other metal surfaces
and haven't seen any rust forming on the T9 protected items. I don't
wipe it off like you said you did...

dave


How exactly do you apply it? Just spray it on and walk away?
I tried it but wasn't impressed. It didn't leave a slick surface. Maybe I
didn't apply it properly. I went back to TopCote and have never had rust
problems.

And, of course, Boeshield is NOT intended as a Cleaner/Rust remover,
so that is an apples and oranges comparison

John

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:16:19 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Peter De Smidt" pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net* wrote in message
...
Then I bought the Boeshield. Before putting it on, I rubbed the
table down with naphtha, after which I sprayed Boeshield on and wiped
most of it off. The next day I had rust. I cleaned all of it off with
mineral spirits and re-applied Boeshield. Again, the next day I had
rust.

My guess is that you are not cleaning the rust off as well as you think.
Just a little staying under the protective coating will just spread.

I recently used Top Saver to clean my saw table top and it removed the rust
and left it looking better than anytime since it was new. Supposedly the
protection
is a notch lower than the T-9, but the cleaning is much better.
Ed

http://pages.cthome.net/edhome

John Crea wrote:
Wiping it OFF gives little protection. If you want the level of
protection you desire, you spray it on liberally, let it set, and it
produces a thick, soft, waxy surface that is superb for rust
protection, but SUCKS for use on a table saw TABLE

Use paste wax or something like TopCote on the table, use the
Boeshield elsewhere on the saw.

Again, if you use BoeShield, DO NOT wipe it off, and be sure you shake
the can real well

John


Well, leaving a thin coat should give better protection than no
protective. Spraying Boeshield on *caused* the table to noticably rust
in a day. This is *much* worse than what occurred the entire month the
top sat in the garage unprotected. Since BoeShield *causes* rust in my
application, I'm not sure why applying more would be a good idea. I'm
also at a loss as to why I should use Boeshield to cause rust on the
non-top parts of the saw.

I have two theories. One, there was a manufacturing defect and moisture
got into the T9. Second, while there wasn't any visible rust after a
month sitting unprotected, and I'm using a 2000 watt movie light as my
setup light/heater at the moment and so I doubt that I missed seeing
any, then perhaps there was microscopic rust that the Naphtha didn't
remove. If so, then perhaps spraying Boeshield sealed in whatever was
causing the rust, which caused the surface to rust faster.

I open to any other theories. My plan is to use BoeShield rust removing
spray and then apply paste wax to the top. Unless I can figure out what
went wrong, however, I won't use T-9 for anything.

-Peter

I would suspect that the table top was NOT totally cleaned of any rust
OR maybe the table top was NOT 100% DRY when you applied the BoeShield

Been using BoeShield for many years, and althought it is always a
possibility of a screw up at the Packing Plant, personally I would
doubt it

John

On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:49:37 -0600, Peter De Smidt
pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net* wrote:

John Crea wrote:
Wiping it OFF gives little protection. If you want the level of
protection you desire, you spray it on liberally, let it set, and it
produces a thick, soft, waxy surface that is superb for rust
protection, but SUCKS for use on a table saw TABLE

Use paste wax or something like TopCote on the table, use the
Boeshield elsewhere on the saw.

Again, if you use BoeShield, DO NOT wipe it off, and be sure you shake
the can real well

John


Well, leaving a thin coat should give better protection than no
protective. Spraying Boeshield on *caused* the table to noticably rust
in a day. This is *much* worse than what occurred the entire month the
top sat in the garage unprotected. Since BoeShield *causes* rust in my
application, I'm not sure why applying more would be a good idea. I'm
also at a loss as to why I should use Boeshield to cause rust on the
non-top parts of the saw.

I have two theories. One, there was a manufacturing defect and moisture
got into the T9. Second, while there wasn't any visible rust after a
month sitting unprotected, and I'm using a 2000 watt movie light as my
setup light/heater at the moment and so I doubt that I missed seeing
any, then perhaps there was microscopic rust that the Naphtha didn't
remove. If so, then perhaps spraying Boeshield sealed in whatever was
causing the rust, which caused the surface to rust faster.

I open to any other theories. My plan is to use BoeShield rust removing
spray and then apply paste wax to the top. Unless I can figure out what
went wrong, however, I won't use T-9 for anything.

-Peter

I had the same problem... I think the trick is to put on a thick coat and
leave it on until you are ready to use the saw and then wipe off the
residue. I do not care for the stuff either. I prefer TopCote as it was
actually developed to be used for this.


"Peter De Smidt" pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net* wrote in message
...
After reading the good reviews of Boeshield T9 rust preventative, I
bought some at a wood working show. My new general tablesaw had been
sitting in my garage since I bought it about a month ago. After
cleaning up the gunk manufacturers put on the machines to avoid rust, it
didn't have any protective layer on it, and it looked fine a month
later. Then I bought the Boeshield. Before putting it on, I rubbed the
table down with naphtha, after which I sprayed Boeshield on and wiped
most of it off. The next day I had rust. I cleaned all of it off with
mineral spirits and re-applied Boeshield. Again, the next day I had
rust. I called the company and was just told to "put it on thicker."
After being bitten twice, I'm hesitant to go through it again. Anyone
have any theories? I'm leaning towards simply using Johnson paste wax
on the table top.

-Peter De Smidt

"Peter De Smidt" pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net* wrote in message
...

Well, leaving a thin coat should give better protection than no
protective. Spraying Boeshield on *caused* the table to noticably rust
in a day. This is *much* worse than what occurred the entire month the
top sat in the garage unprotected. Since BoeShield *causes* rust in my
application, I'm not sure why applying more would be a good idea. I'm
also at a loss as to why I should use Boeshield to cause rust on the
non-top parts of the saw.

I dont think it caused rust. I think you had residue left over from the
original cleaning. Then you used Naptha to clean the surface and removed
what little protection there was left. The Boeshield simply did not do the
job as expected. Using the Naptha to clean the surface is probably what
caused the surface to rust as it was expoed to the air.

"John Crea" wrote in message
...
And, of course, Boeshield is NOT intended as a Cleaner/Rust remover,
so that is an apples and oranges comparison

John

But Top Saver is billed as a protector and that is apples and apples.
Boeshield does have a rust remover as a separate product, but I have no idea
how well it performs.
Ed

I was in the shop on Saturday, after not having been in there for more
than two months.

A couple of months previous to that I had experimented with using
dewaxed shellac as a top coat for my jointer.

I used the jointer enough to see that the shellac was not rubbed off
by use.

The only tool that showed no rust at all was the jointer.

The other tools were coated with paste wax or Boeshield, or TopCote.

I'm preaching the gospel of dewaxed shellac as a rust barrier for cast
iron tools.

Can I get an Amen?



Thomas J. Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
(Real Email is tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

Tom Watson wrote:

I'm preaching the gospel of dewaxed shellac as a rust barrier for cast
iron tools.

Can I get an Amen?

Amen brother Tom!

But I haven't actually tried it yet. So far my cheap box fan is working
wonders.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/

Would this work ? : 1. Apply a coat of Boeshield, let dry
(for rust prevention). 2. Then on top of this apply paste wax
(for "slick" surface).

I have always just used paste wax. with decent results.
But I was just recently contemplating buying some Boeshield,
for the first time, for the additional rust prevention.
Am I being a sucker for the magazine article test results that showed
Boeshield to be pretty effective ?)

I guess my question is: has anyone ever applied paste wax over
Boeshield, and how did it work ?

Thanks ,
Ken



John Crea wrote in message . ..
Boeshield does NOT and was never intended nor designed to leave a
"slick" surface

Use a different product if that is your goal, pastewax is the tried
and true solution for cast iron table tops, but you gotta apply and
re-apply as neeeded

John

Tom Watson wrote:


I'm preaching the gospel of dewaxed shellac as a rust barrier for cast
iron tools.

Can I get an Amen?


Are you mixing your own shellac and brushing it on, or are you using a
spray like Bull's Eye?

-Peter

Probably not. BoeShield leaves behind a very SOFT wax surface, and
applying pastewas over that will likely remove most of the BoeShield
coating

Use the Boeshield on areas that dont' need to be hard/dry and slick.
Use pastewax or other commerical castiron table top treatments for the
table tops


John

On 4 Mar 2004 04:16:04 -0800, (Ken) wrote:

Would this work ? : 1. Apply a coat of Boeshield, let dry
(for rust prevention). 2. Then on top of this apply paste wax
(for "slick" surface).

I have always just used paste wax. with decent results.
But I was just recently contemplating buying some Boeshield,
for the first time, for the additional rust prevention.
Am I being a sucker for the magazine article test results that showed
Boeshield to be pretty effective ?)

I guess my question is: has anyone ever applied paste wax over
Boeshield, and how did it work ?

Thanks ,
Ken



John Crea wrote in message . ..
Boeshield does NOT and was never intended nor designed to leave a
"slick" surface

Use a different product if that is your goal, pastewax is the tried
and true solution for cast iron table tops, but you gotta apply and
re-apply as neeeded

John

Tom Watson wrote:

I'm preaching the gospel of dewaxed shellac as a rust barrier for cast
iron tools.

Can I get an Amen?

I've followed your lead and will chime in with an amen (if it works as
advertised) as soon as the snow starts melting and the humidity in the
shop climbs above 30%.

Ken Muldrew

(remove all letters after y in the alphabet)

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

Boeshield does have a rust remover as a separate product, but I have no idea
how well it performs.

I got some this week. It works great, but the smell is horrible.

On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 08:43:28 -0600, Peter De Smidt
pdesmidt*no*spam*@tds.*net* wrote:

Are you mixing your own shellac and brushing it on, or are you using a
spray like Bull's Eye?


I had some dewaxed pale mixed up already and wiped it on with a rag.

The surface is at least as slick as proprietary coatings and it's less
time consuming to reapply than wax, as it does not have to be buffed.

So far I'm happy enough with it to plan on stripping the coatings off
the other machines and using the shellac on them - when the weather
gets a little warmer.


Thomas J. Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
(Real Email is tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/

Tom Watson wrote:

I had some dewaxed pale mixed up already and wiped it on with a rag.

The surface is at least as slick as proprietary coatings and it's less
time consuming to reapply than wax, as it does not have to be buffed.

Why do you say wax has to be buffed? I never buff after applying wax to
tool surfaces.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 20:23:08 -0500, Nova
wrote:

Why do you say wax has to be buffed? I never buff after applying wax to
tool surfaces.

I buffed out the surface with a lamb's wool bonnet so that I was
pretty much guaranteed that wax would not transfer to the wood,
particularly sheet goods.


Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1

buff the wax to make it nice and slick and to remove the excess before
your wood does.

dave

Nova wrote:

Tom Watson wrote:


I had some dewaxed pale mixed up already and wiped it on with a rag.

The surface is at least as slick as proprietary coatings and it's less
time consuming to reapply than wax, as it does not have to be buffed.


Why do you say wax has to be buffed? I never buff after applying wax to
tool surfaces.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

I cannot remember the acid that was in the rust remover. It was either
pyrophoric or phosphoric but it does eat away at the oxidation. I had a
bottle of it that leaked in my cabinet and I took some baking soda out
to clean it up. You might carefully choose where you decide to store it.
BTW, acids and solvents DO NOT play well together.

Philski

On Thu, 04 Mar 2004 20:23:08 -0500, Nova
brought forth from the murky depths:

Tom Watson wrote:

I had some dewaxed pale mixed up already and wiped it on with a rag.

The surface is at least as slick as proprietary coatings and it's less
time consuming to reapply than wax, as it does not have to be buffed.

Why do you say wax has to be buffed? I never buff after applying wax to
tool surfaces.

Don't you even wipe the dusty residue off, Yack?
(which reminds me to wipe off that thickest scraper
blade I found slightly rusted in a box last week...)

-------------------------------
Iguana: The other green meat!
-------------------------------
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

Nova wrote:
Tom Watson wrote:


I had some dewaxed pale mixed up already and wiped it on with a rag.

The surface is at least as slick as proprietary coatings and it's less
time consuming to reapply than wax, as it does not have to be buffed.


Why do you say wax has to be buffed? I never buff after applying wax to
tool surfaces.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)


Nova:
In reading about T-9, Peter Schwarz, President of PMS Products - the
company that manufactures BoeShield T9 explained that Boeshield is
mainly a paraffin wax in a solvent vehicle. "Once the solvent
evaporates, the remaining film is a dry paraffin wax which will not
stain wood." - a quote. Application calls for spraying then wiping off
but he went on to indicate that for long-term storage, spray on but do
not wipe off. And T9 is also billed as a waterproof lubricant. BTW, I
use it on my bicycle chain and it performs magnificently.

Philski

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 16:01:58 -0700, philski
wrote:


In reading about T-9, Peter Schwarz, President of PMS Products - the
company that manufactures BoeShield T9 explained that Boeshield is
mainly a paraffin wax in a solvent vehicle. "Once the solvent
evaporates, the remaining film is a dry paraffin wax which will not
stain wood."

It doesn't have to stain the wood in order to create problems in
finishing. If the wax gets into the pores it will create a spot that
is lighter than those areas that have no wax on them, once you get to
the staining and finishing.

It's not as bad as smeared in glue but it can be a problem.


Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
Website: http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1