I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:
http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to
be coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:
http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to be
coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.


Pick B above, shim the top and use masking tape. It works and stays put.

On 09/21/2009 05:13 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to
be coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.

I shimmed mine.

Paper is about 3 thou. May be too thick. Tinfoil works and is thinner.
Silver foil tape (the real stuff to use when taping ducts) is thinner
than masking tape and will stay in place better than tinfoil.

Chris

-MIKE- wrote:

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Not uncommon, and Leon's solution is the best fix ...


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Not uncommon, and Leon's solution is the best fix ...


Glad to hear.
.... and glad I was on the right track.

I have good masking tape and the metal HVAC tape that Chris suggested.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 21, 6:25*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message

...



I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. *There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:
http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? *What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to be
coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.

Pick B above, shim the top and use masking tape. *It works and stays put.

On Sep 21, 7:13*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. *There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? *What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to
be coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin

Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin


Bend cast iron, John? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
-MIKE- wrote:

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Not uncommon, and Leon's solution is the best fix ...


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Go with Leon's solution.

Oh, and you still suck..... :-)

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...

Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin


Bend cast iron, John? :-)


It is not hard. You just need to heat it hot enough first. A big can of
propane and a flamethrower torch and you are in business! LOL

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
Bend cast iron, John? :-)

It is not hard. You just need to heat it hot enough first. A big can of
propane and a flamethrower torch and you are in business! LOL

You forgot the sledge hammer to bend it when it's hot and then the crazy
glue to reattach the piece that you broke off with the sledge hammer.

Joe wrote:

Go with Leon's solution.

Oh, and you still suck..... :-)


Thanks Joe, I'm still excited about it.

The arbor is perfectly perpendicular to the miter slots, within .001 inch.
Once I shim that wing, the top will be perfect.
I wired the motor to 240 and ran a dedicated circuit over to it. It's
very quite... especially compared to my horrible Ryobi direct drive. I'm
also surprised and pleased with how quickly the blade stops when turned of.
It doesn't have a brake, I'm guessing it's the drag from the belt.

I added a big-ass 20 amp paddle switch from Grizzly, to replace the
light switch the previous owner had on it. He had burned up the original
and two replacement switches, direct from Delta. I've heard that Delta
has had switch problem in the past. I wanted the safety of the paddle
switch, so I spent the 20 bucks for something that could handle the amps.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:
http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to
be coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.

Shim the top edge of the wing. "Care and Repair of Shop Machines" by John
White recommends using pieces cut from aluminum cans for shim stock for this
application. Put the shims above the bolts. Cut the shims flush with a chisel
after you get the table flat. (This technique worked for me.)


Dan

-MIKE- wrote:
Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin


Bend cast iron, John? :-)

By loosening the wing bolts slightly. I'd use masking tape.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote:

Go with Leon's solution.

Oh, and you still suck..... :-)


Thanks Joe, I'm still excited about it.

The arbor is perfectly perpendicular to the miter slots, within .001 inch.
Once I shim that wing, the top will be perfect.
I wired the motor to 240 and ran a dedicated circuit over to it. It's
very quite... especially compared to my horrible Ryobi direct drive. I'm
also surprised and pleased with how quickly the blade stops when turned
of.
It doesn't have a brake, I'm guessing it's the drag from the belt.

I added a big-ass 20 amp paddle switch from Grizzly, to replace the
light switch the previous owner had on it. He had burned up the original
and two replacement switches, direct from Delta. I've heard that Delta
has had switch problem in the past. I wanted the safety of the paddle
switch, so I spent the 20 bucks for something that could handle the amps.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Smart moves . Sounds like you're on the right track. Have fun!

Damn, you went from a ryobi dd to that???

Smart moves . Sounds like you're on the right track. Have fun!

Damn, you went from a ryobi dd to that???


Yeah! I'm thinking I'm going to have a cordless drill moment, the first
time I run a sheet of plywood through it... ""How did I ever survive
without this!?" :-)

Problem is, I think I have to sell the radial arm saw just to have room.
But I figure, with the room, this thing will do whatever the RAS did.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...

Smart moves . Sounds like you're on the right track. Have fun!

Damn, you went from a ryobi dd to that???


Yeah! I'm thinking I'm going to have a cordless drill moment, the first
time I run a sheet of plywood through it... ""How did I ever survive
without this!?" :-)

Problem is, I think I have to sell the radial arm saw just to have room.
But I figure, with the room, this thing will do whatever the RAS did.


I used a RAS to build half the furniture in my home from 1979 to 1983. Then
I got a TS and the RAS sat for 4 years before I garage saled it.

Leon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Yeah! I'm thinking I'm going to have a cordless drill moment, the first
time I run a sheet of plywood through it... ""How did I ever survive
without this!?" :-)

Problem is, I think I have to sell the radial arm saw just to have room.
But I figure, with the room, this thing will do whatever the RAS did.


I used a RAS to build half the furniture in my home from 1979 to 1983. Then
I got a TS and the RAS sat for 4 years before I garage saled it.

Cross-cutting 12' long, 8" wide, 8/4 boards is no fun on the table saw.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Steve Turner wrote:
Leon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Yeah! I'm thinking I'm going to have a cordless drill moment, the first
time I run a sheet of plywood through it... ""How did I ever survive
without this!?" :-)

Problem is, I think I have to sell the radial arm saw just to have room.
But I figure, with the room, this thing will do whatever the RAS did.


I used a RAS to build half the furniture in my home from 1979 to
1983. Then I got a TS and the RAS sat for 4 years before I garage
saled it.

Cross-cutting 12' long, 8" wide, 8/4 boards is no fun on the table saw.


When you're in a single-car garage, and the footprint of a RAS is about
5x5, unless you're cutting those every day, it's not worth it to give up
the space, when a decent dross-cutting jig can do it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Steve Turner" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Yeah! I'm thinking I'm going to have a cordless drill moment, the first
time I run a sheet of plywood through it... ""How did I ever survive
without this!?" :-)

Problem is, I think I have to sell the radial arm saw just to have room.
But I figure, with the room, this thing will do whatever the RAS did.


I used a RAS to build half the furniture in my home from 1979 to 1983.
Then I got a TS and the RAS sat for 4 years before I garage saled it.

Cross-cutting 12' long, 8" wide, 8/4 boards is no fun on the table saw.


That is why I would do it with a circular saw and a straight edge. Yes you
can hardly tell that it was not cut by a much better saw.

-MIKE- wrote:
Steve Turner wrote:
Leon wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message
Yeah! I'm thinking I'm going to have a cordless drill moment, the first
time I run a sheet of plywood through it... ""How did I ever survive
without this!?" :-)

Problem is, I think I have to sell the radial arm saw just to have
room.
But I figure, with the room, this thing will do whatever the RAS did.


I used a RAS to build half the furniture in my home from 1979 to
1983. Then I got a TS and the RAS sat for 4 years before I garage
saled it.

Cross-cutting 12' long, 8" wide, 8/4 boards is no fun on the table saw.


When you're in a single-car garage, and the footprint of a RAS is about
5x5, unless you're cutting those every day, it's not worth it to give up
the space, when a decent dross-cutting jig can do it.

I hear ya, but there ain't too many cross-cutting jigs for the table saw
that can handle the caliber of board I mentioned, at least not easily.
Most compound miter saws can't handle a board that wide either, unless
it's a slider. Before I got that RAS (thanks to you!) I had more than a
few occasions to break out the Skil 77 or even my old Disston hand saw
just to crosscut a big unwieldy board (try *that* on a piece of sugar
maple!). Ya gotta do what ya gotta do though, and if ya gotta choose
between the table saw and the radial arm saw, I think the choice is
obvious: Get a bigger shop! :-)

--
If it ain't perfect, improve it...
But don't break it while you're fixin' it!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

Steve Turner wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:
When you're in a single-car garage, and the footprint of a RAS is about
5x5, unless you're cutting those every day, it's not worth it to give up
the space, when a decent dross-cutting jig can do it.

I hear ya, but there ain't too many cross-cutting jigs for the table saw
that can handle the caliber of board I mentioned, at least not easily.
Most compound miter saws can't handle a board that wide either, unless
it's a slider. Before I got that RAS (thanks to you!) I had more than a
few occasions to break out the Skil 77 or even my old Disston hand saw
just to crosscut a big unwieldy board (try *that* on a piece of sugar
maple!).

Yeah, sorry, I wasn't clear. I was talking about a circ-saw.
I get very clean and straight edges.


Ya gotta do what ya gotta do though, and if ya gotta choose
between the table saw and the radial arm saw, I think the choice is
obvious: Get a bigger shop! :-)


I'm checking craigslist. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Leon wrote:
"Steve Turner"
I used a RAS to build half the furniture in my home from 1979 to 1983.
Then I got a TS and the RAS sat for 4 years before I garage saled it.
Cross-cutting 12' long, 8" wide, 8/4 boards is no fun on the table saw.


That is why I would do it with a circular saw and a straight edge. Yes you
can hardly tell that it was not cut by a much better saw.


Tru-dat.

With a good 7-1/4" blade, you end up with the same number of teeth,
moving at about the same speed.
And with the straight-edge/jig I use, it greatly reduces tear-out.
I've also used carpet tape to secure a piece of hardboard to the bottom
of a circ-saw to simulate a zero-clearance insert.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
I've also used carpet tape to secure a piece of hardboard to the bottom
of a circ-saw to simulate a zero-clearance insert.

That is brilliant.

/me makes mental note, and writes it down just to be safe.
--
Froz...

"Leon" wrote in message
That is why I would do it with a circular saw and a straight edge. Yes
you
can hardly tell that it was not cut by a much better saw.

And a really effective upgrade from the simple straight edge method is some
of the new track saws on the market. At the Toronto Woodworking Show I went
to in march, I got demonstrations from a Festool dealer and a DeWalt dealer.
The edges of the cut wood were comparable in most every way to what one
could get on a table saw, but were much easier and certainly less space
limiting.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

"Leon" wrote in message
That is why I would do it with a circular saw and a straight edge. Yes
you
can hardly tell that it was not cut by a much better saw.

And a really effective upgrade from the simple straight edge method is
some
of the new track saws on the market. At the Toronto Woodworking Show I
went
to in march, I got demonstrations from a Festool dealer and a DeWalt
dealer.
The edges of the cut wood were comparable in most every way to what one
could get on a table saw, but were much easier and certainly less space
limiting.

Yup and Makita has one also.
These saws could seriousely harm sales of "possible" sales of TS's also.

"Leon" wrote in message
Yup and Makita has one also.
These saws could seriousely harm sales of "possible" sales of TS's also.

Especially considering the price difference, not even thinking of all the
weight considerations and space considerations of a table saw.

BTW, don't know how much you've been using your Domino, but have you
experienced any dulling of the bit? Can they be sharpened or do would then
need to be replaced?

Also, bought myself a Dremel MultiMax about two weeks ago. As I was using it
to shave the edge of a piece of acrylic to fit a 140mm fan opening on my
computer, I had all sorts of scenarios popping into my head as to where else
I might use it. My only problem is that it seems to be a relatively new
product on the market and I'm having a little trouble finding tool stores
that carry many of the blade accessories. Guess that will change over time.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

Especially considering the price difference, not even thinking of all the
weight considerations and space considerations of a table saw.

I could see contractors using the new saws over dragging a contractors saw
to the job site.


BTW, don't know how much you've been using your Domino, but have you
experienced any dulling of the bit? Can they be sharpened or do would then
need to be replaced?

AAMOF In the last couple of days I cut 168 mortises with it for a bedroom
project. I was assembling 2 tower cabinets and using dominos to place and
attach 4 fixed shelves to 4 sides to each of 2 cabinets. The last is being
glued up this morning. I am using 32 dominos to hold the final glue up
together and they are located in 12 different locations on each tower.
Every thing has to fit perfectly. I was shocked that I did not have to
leave out or adjust any dominos because of an alignment problem during the
trial dry fit.

I have seen no sign of the bit dulling and I have probably cut a couple
thousand mortices with this particular 5mm bit. IIRC the bit is carbide. I
understand that they can be resharpened however there is no adjustment in
how they fit. The Domino has specific depth settings that may be affected
by a "significantly" shorter bit. The multiple depth settings allow
slightly deeper holes than indicated to make room for glue. FWIW, the
Domino comes/came with a 5mm bit. The Domino tennon assortment that I
purchased also included a complete bit set with the 5,6,8, &10mm bits, so I
have 2, 5mm bits, the size that I use the most.


Also, bought myself a Dremel MultiMax about two weeks ago. As I was using
it
to shave the edge of a piece of acrylic to fit a 140mm fan opening on my
computer, I had all sorts of scenarios popping into my head as to where
else
I might use it. My only problem is that it seems to be a relatively new
product on the market and I'm having a little trouble finding tool stores
that carry many of the blade accessories. Guess that will change over
time.

I have had the Multimaster for several years now and find that I use it more
and more. In fact I had it ready during the dry fit of the above mentioned
project in case there were any misalignment problems with the dominos. I
was going to sand the domino "thinner" on one end. Fortunately it was not
needed. I find that it makes a lot of small "impossible' jobs possible with
little effort.
I have seen a decent collection of spare blades, etc. at Home Depot. You
might look at Amazon for replacements. I'll be trying out the Dremel blades
on my next purchase as I understand they will fit the Fein as do the Bosch
blades. And both brands are way less expensive than the Fein brand.

On Sep 23, 6:49*am, "Leon" wrote:
"Upscale" wrote in message

...



"Leon" wrote in message
That is why I would do it with a circular saw and a straight edge. *Yes
you
can hardly tell that it was not cut by a much better saw.

And a really effective upgrade from the simple straight edge method is
some
of the new track saws on the market. At the Toronto Woodworking Show I
went
to in march, I got demonstrations from a Festool dealer and a DeWalt
dealer.
The edges of the cut wood were comparable in most every way to what one
could get on a table saw, but were much easier and certainly less space
limiting.

Yup and Makita has one also.
These saws could seriousely harm sales of "possible" sales of TS's also.

Interesting.

I wonder if they've (saw mfgrs), collectively, done and released
studies of who uses each saw for which kind of cut -- say: a TS --
what % of the time is it used for ripping, cross-cutting, dadoes,
miters, etc., etc.

Should help them determine what the market potential is for an
additional capability, on a lower priced model (eg, circ vs. ts)....

Having just received my new Bosch 4100DS ... yesterday ... I'm not
changing over any time soon ;-)

"Neil Brooks" wrote in message
...


Interesting.

I wonder if they've (saw mfgrs), collectively, done and released
studies of who uses each saw for which kind of cut -- say: a TS --
what % of the time is it used for ripping, cross-cutting, dadoes,
miters, etc., etc.

Should help them determine what the market potential is for an
additional capability, on a lower priced model (eg, circ vs. ts)....

Having just received my new Bosch 4100DS ... yesterday ... I'm not
changing over any time soon ;-)


Well for now, these saws are not the things you will see a framer using, I
hope. They tend to be very precise and typically cause no tear out in
plywood. For the most part they will be the same price or a bit more than
the typical bench top saw, and perhaps equal to half the price of a
contractor saw on legs. If I were considering a saw for job site precice
cutting it would be one of the new circle saws, they have few size of
material limitations and probably cut better than most bench top TS's.

Upscale wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
That is why I would do it with a circular saw and a straight edge. Yes
you
can hardly tell that it was not cut by a much better saw.

And a really effective upgrade from the simple straight edge method is some
of the new track saws on the market. At the Toronto Woodworking Show I went
to in march, I got demonstrations from a Festool dealer and a DeWalt dealer.
The edges of the cut wood were comparable in most every way to what one
could get on a table saw, but were much easier and certainly less space
limiting.


....... and cost as much as a table saw. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
Upscale wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message
That is why I would do it with a circular saw and a straight edge.
Yes you can hardly tell that it was not cut by a much better saw.

And a really effective upgrade from the simple straight edge method
is some of the new track saws on the market. At the Toronto
Woodworking Show I went to in march, I got demonstrations from a
Festool dealer and a DeWalt dealer. The edges of the cut wood were
comparable in most every way to what one could get on a table saw,
but were much easier and certainly less space limiting.


...... and cost as much as a table saw. :-)

Yep, Coastal wants as much for the deWalt as I paid for my table saw.

Note that the deWalt is a 6-1/2" saw, not 7-1/2, and has a full quarter inch
less cut depth than a Skil 77. That means that you can use up a quarter of
an inch of height building a jig for it and end up with the same depth of
cut. That's in the "easy to do with some Masonite" category.

On Sep 21, 10:13*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin

Bend cast iron, John? * *:-)

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Yes, bend cast iron. Cold. It doesn't bend much, but it does bend.
And you don't need much of a bend.

Pretty common way to correct warped jointer fences, among other
things.

John Martin

wrote:
On Sep 21, 10:13 pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.
John Martin
Bend cast iron, John? :-)


Yes, bend cast iron. Cold. It doesn't bend much, but it does bend.
And you don't need much of a bend.

Pretty common way to correct warped jointer fences, among other
things.

John Martin


Guess I'd be worried about not knowing where it would bend.
I'd be afraid of putting a curve in the top.

In any case, the "tape shim" method seems to do the trick.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
And a really effective upgrade from the simple straight edge method is
some
of the new track saws on the market.

...... and cost as much as a table saw. :-)

Yup, can't dispute that. Convenience usually costs.