I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:
http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to
be coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:
http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to be
coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.


Pick B above, shim the top and use masking tape. It works and stays put.

On Sep 21, 6:25*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message

...



I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. *There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:
http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? *What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to be
coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.

Pick B above, shim the top and use masking tape. *It works and stays put.

On 09/21/2009 05:13 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to
be coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.

I shimmed mine.

Paper is about 3 thou. May be too thick. Tinfoil works and is thinner.
Silver foil tape (the real stuff to use when taping ducts) is thinner
than masking tape and will stay in place better than tinfoil.

Chris

-MIKE- wrote:

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Not uncommon, and Leon's solution is the best fix ...


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Swingman wrote:
-MIKE- wrote:

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Not uncommon, and Leon's solution is the best fix ...


Glad to hear.
.... and glad I was on the right track.

I have good masking tape and the metal HVAC tape that Chris suggested.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
-MIKE- wrote:

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Not uncommon, and Leon's solution is the best fix ...


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)

Go with Leon's solution.

Oh, and you still suck..... :-)

Joe wrote:

Go with Leon's solution.

Oh, and you still suck..... :-)


Thanks Joe, I'm still excited about it.

The arbor is perfectly perpendicular to the miter slots, within .001 inch.
Once I shim that wing, the top will be perfect.
I wired the motor to 240 and ran a dedicated circuit over to it. It's
very quite... especially compared to my horrible Ryobi direct drive. I'm
also surprised and pleased with how quickly the blade stops when turned of.
It doesn't have a brake, I'm guessing it's the drag from the belt.

I added a big-ass 20 amp paddle switch from Grizzly, to replace the
light switch the previous owner had on it. He had burned up the original
and two replacement switches, direct from Delta. I've heard that Delta
has had switch problem in the past. I wanted the safety of the paddle
switch, so I spent the 20 bucks for something that could handle the amps.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Joe wrote:

Go with Leon's solution.

Oh, and you still suck..... :-)


Thanks Joe, I'm still excited about it.

The arbor is perfectly perpendicular to the miter slots, within .001 inch.
Once I shim that wing, the top will be perfect.
I wired the motor to 240 and ran a dedicated circuit over to it. It's
very quite... especially compared to my horrible Ryobi direct drive. I'm
also surprised and pleased with how quickly the blade stops when turned
of.
It doesn't have a brake, I'm guessing it's the drag from the belt.

I added a big-ass 20 amp paddle switch from Grizzly, to replace the
light switch the previous owner had on it. He had burned up the original
and two replacement switches, direct from Delta. I've heard that Delta
has had switch problem in the past. I wanted the safety of the paddle
switch, so I spent the 20 bucks for something that could handle the amps.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Smart moves . Sounds like you're on the right track. Have fun!

Damn, you went from a ryobi dd to that???

Smart moves . Sounds like you're on the right track. Have fun!

Damn, you went from a ryobi dd to that???


Yeah! I'm thinking I'm going to have a cordless drill moment, the first
time I run a sheet of plywood through it... ""How did I ever survive
without this!?" :-)

Problem is, I think I have to sell the radial arm saw just to have room.
But I figure, with the room, this thing will do whatever the RAS did.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Sep 21, 7:13*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. *There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? *What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to
be coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin

Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin


Bend cast iron, John? :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...

Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin


Bend cast iron, John? :-)


It is not hard. You just need to heat it hot enough first. A big can of
propane and a flamethrower torch and you are in business! LOL

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
Bend cast iron, John? :-)

It is not hard. You just need to heat it hot enough first. A big can of
propane and a flamethrower torch and you are in business! LOL

You forgot the sledge hammer to bend it when it's hot and then the crazy
glue to reattach the piece that you broke off with the sledge hammer.

-MIKE- wrote:
Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin


Bend cast iron, John? :-)

By loosening the wing bolts slightly. I'd use masking tape.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Sep 21, 10:13*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.

John Martin

Bend cast iron, John? * *:-)

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Yes, bend cast iron. Cold. It doesn't bend much, but it does bend.
And you don't need much of a bend.

Pretty common way to correct warped jointer fences, among other
things.

John Martin

wrote:
On Sep 21, 10:13 pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Or, you could simply bend it down a bit.
John Martin
Bend cast iron, John? :-)


Yes, bend cast iron. Cold. It doesn't bend much, but it does bend.
And you don't need much of a bend.

Pretty common way to correct warped jointer fences, among other
things.

John Martin


Guess I'd be worried about not knowing where it would bend.
I'd be afraid of putting a curve in the top.

In any case, the "tape shim" method seems to do the trick.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

-MIKE- wrote:
I've been tweaking up my new-to-me table saw (see recent gloat), going
through all the adjustments and making sure everything in on spec,
straight, square, parallel and all that.

The cast iron top is in three pieces. The main piece with the saw blade
hole, and a wing each on the left and right. There are 3 bolts holding
each wing to the make section.

When I check with a straight edge (yes, it's straight), the right wing
is in line and coplanar with the center section.
When I check the left wing, it is a little higher on it's outside than
where it meets the center section.
see diagram:
http://www.mikedrums.com/tablesawtop2.png

The gap in the diagram is exaggerated. It's a bit less than two business
cards. This may be perfectly acceptable for most circumstances, but I'm
a bit anal and would like it to be perfect.

Do they make shims for this purpose? What would you suggest?

Off the top of my head, I have a couple ideas...
1) sand the bottom of the edge of the wing, until it pulls in enough to
be coplanar.
B) shim the top of the edge of the wing with paper, until it pushes out
enough to be coplanar.

Shim the top edge of the wing. "Care and Repair of Shop Machines" by John
White recommends using pieces cut from aluminum cans for shim stock for this
application. Put the shims above the bolts. Cut the shims flush with a chisel
after you get the table flat. (This technique worked for me.)


Dan