There are 6 or 8 spiral nails on our deck that will not stay down. The
boards are flat on the deck and do not appear to be cupped or warped.
But, within about 3 months of driving the nails down, they are back
up.

Should I pull the nails and replace them with the next size larger
spiral nail?

Should I pull the nails and replace them with coated deck screws?
--
Email hint - Everything after the @ is spelled backwards.

There are only 10 types of people in the world:
those that understand binary, and
those that don't.

mg wrote:
There are 6 or 8 spiral nails on our deck that will not stay down. The
boards are flat on the deck and do not appear to be cupped or warped.
But, within about 3 months of driving the nails down, they are back
up.

Should I pull the nails and replace them with the next size larger
spiral nail?

If you go this route, you might try ring shank nails, or hot-dipped
galvanized.

Should I pull the nails and replace them with coated deck screws?

Worth a try.

Chris

If you are going to use screws, use _stainless_.

Without regard to what others will say about coated deck screws, they do rust and causes holes where water will lay. Stainless may cost more but they can be reused - back them out and stick them somewhere else even 10 years later. Try that with a rusted deck screw.

Might be that walking on the deck is causing the board to flex thereby lifting the nails.

P D Q


"mg" wrote in message ...
There are 6 or 8 spiral nails on our deck that will not stay down. The
boards are flat on the deck and do not appear to be cupped or warped.
But, within about 3 months of driving the nails down, they are back
up.

Should I pull the nails and replace them with the next size larger
spiral nail?

Should I pull the nails and replace them with coated deck screws?
--
Email hint - Everything after the @ is spelled backwards.

There are only 10 types of people in the world:
those that understand binary, and
those that don't.

"mg" wrote:

There are 6 or 8 spiral nails on our deck that will not stay down.
The
boards are flat on the deck and do not appear to be cupped or
warped.
But, within about 3 months of driving the nails down, they are back
up.

Should I pull the nails and replace them with the next size larger
spiral nail?

Should I pull the nails and replace them with coated deck screws?

There is an old expression about fasteners "working" their way out,
probably from expansion/contraction of the wood or from possible
vibration.

Your best chance will be deck screws, just be sure they are rated for
exterior service.

Lew

On Jun 22, 11:31*am, mg wrote:
There are 6 or 8 spiral nails on our deck that will not stay down. The
boards are flat on the deck and do not appear to be cupped or warped.
But, within about 3 months of driving the nails down, they are back
up.

Should I pull the nails and replace them with the next size larger
spiral nail?

Should I pull the nails and replace them with coated deck screws?

I replied to your post in another newsgroup. When you are asking one
question that applies to a couple of three newsgroups, post only the
one message. Otherwise people can't see all of the responses and
there will be duplication, wasted time and effort. It's not spamming
when you post to more than one group if it is applicable to the
group. Thanks.

R

"mg" wrote in message
There are 6 or 8 spiral nails on our deck that will not stay down. The
boards are flat on the deck and do not appear to be cupped or warped.
But, within about 3 months of driving the nails down, they are back
up.

Aside from the suggestion to use ring shanked nails or deck screws, you
might also want to investigate why the nails are coming up. It *could* be
just because of general traffic, but it could also be because of especially
warped wood or the fact that it bounces escessively when walked on. Are the
supporting timbers all in good shape and reasonably flat on their edges?

"PDQ" writes:


Without regard to what others will say about coated deck screws,
they do rust and causes holes where water will lay. Stainless may
cost more......

Considerably more. Maybe even prohibitively more. Are preservative
coatings an option? Since I'm currently refurbishing an old deck, I'd
certainly be interested in this info. Thanks.

nb

wrote:

Without regard to what others will say about coated deck screws,
they do rust and causes holes where water will lay. Stainless may
cost more......

Considerably more. Maybe even prohibitively more. Are preservative
coatings an option? Since I'm currently refurbishing an old deck, I'd
certainly be interested in this info. Thanks.

It really depends on how long you plan on having the deck, what type of
wood is used, what the weather is like in your area, etc.

I live in the Canadian prairies, where it's pretty dry most of the
summer. Around here the average wooden deck will usually fall apart
before the fasteners corrode, so nobody uses stainless.

Chris

wrote:
"PDQ" writes:

Without regard to what others will say about coated deck screws,
they do rust and causes holes where water will lay. Stainless may
cost more......

Considerably more. Maybe even prohibitively more. Are preservative
coatings an option? Since I'm currently refurbishing an old deck, I'd
certainly be interested in this info. Thanks.

I think it all depends on the service life you're shooting for. I
worried over this for my solar panels, and opted for stainless fasteners
throughout (even for the pair of pop rivets and backup plates used in
each absorber section that aren't ever exposed to the weather).

If you use square drive, you can back 'em out when the time comes - and
use 'em in your /next/ deck.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

wrote:

Considerably more. Maybe even prohibitively more.

Spare me the bull ****.

Deck Screws, #8x3", 18-8 S/S, $13.20/box (100 pcs)

Jamestown Distributors

Lew

In ,
dropped this bit of wisdom:
"PDQ" writes:


Without regard to what others will say about coated deck screws,
they do rust and causes holes where water will lay. Stainless may
cost more......

Considerably more. Maybe even prohibitively more. Are preservative
coatings an option? Since I'm currently refurbishing an old deck, I'd
certainly be interested in this info. Thanks.

nb

I tried them the first time.
They were guaranteed not to rust, bust, tear or spring leaks.

When it came time to redo, I used stainless.

The stainless on my fence are 10 years old and still look and work like new.

I wish my deck could say the same. Each plank I redo/replace gets stainless.

I had to redo a portion of the deck after 3 years when my TV antenna was removed.
The screws had rusted by then and most of the ones I had to remove got chewed by a reciprocal saw.

P D Q

On Jun 22, 4:24*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
wrote:
Considerably more. *Maybe even prohibitively more.

Spare me the bull ****.

Deck Screws, #8x3", 18-8 S/S, $13.20/box (100 pcs)

Jamestown Distributors

Do it right, do it once, and all that. But I don't like stainless
deck screws as much as the epoxy coated ones. The coated screws are
much less likely to strip out the square drive recess than stainless
screws.

R

"RicodJour" wrote:
================================
Do it right, do it once, and all that. But I don't like stainless
deck screws as much as the epoxy coated ones. The coated screws are
much less likely to strip out the square drive recess than stainless
screws.
=================================

That's why pilot drills were invented.

A MUST for S/S fasteners IMHO.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" writes:


Spare me the bull ****.

Deck Screws, #8x3", 18-8 S/S, $13.20/box (100 pcs)

I'm on a fixed income and know next to nothing about carpentry
fastener prices.

You buying? If not, might I suggest you keep your ill mannered responses
to yourself.


nb

wrote:

I'm on a fixed income and know next to nothing about carpentry
fastener prices.


Then why offer advice about a subject you know little about?

As far as fixed income, what is the revelancy?

Lew

On Jun 22, 5:51*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote:

================================
Do it right, do it once, and all that. *But I don't like stainless
deck screws as much as the epoxy coated ones. *The coated screws are
much less likely to strip out the square drive recess than stainless
screws.
=================================

That's why pilot drills were invented.

A MUST for S/S fasteners IMHO.

That's the deal breaker - well, one of the deal breakers - for me.
Pilot holes near the ends of boards to prevent splitting, sure, but no
way no how am I drilling a deck full of pilot holes when the epoxy
coated screws are self drilling and have those nifty anti-mushroom
heads.

R

"Lew Hodgett" writes:


Then why offer advice about a subject you know little about?

I said ss screws cost considerably more. Since "considerably" means
different things to different ppl, "more" is is open to debate and not
definitive. My second statement was qualified with "Perhaps", which
indicates speculation, not fact. Alone or together, both statements
hardly qualify as "advice".


As far as fixed income, what is the revelancy?

What? ...I gotta explain everyting?

I AIN'T GOT MUCH MOOLAH! HARD TIMES! NO END OF QUARTER BONUS!

Does that clear it up?

nb

wrote:

I AIN'T GOT MUCH MOOLAH! HARD TIMES! NO END OF QUARTER BONUS!

Does that clear it up?

Not unless you have a deck to repair.

Lew

On Jun 22, 8:57*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
wrote:
I AIN'T GOT MUCH MOOLAH! *HARD TIMES! *NO END OF QUARTER BONUS!

Does that clear it up?

Not unless you have a deck to repair.

He does.

R

In article ,
"Upscale" wrote:

"mg" wrote in message
There are 6 or 8 spiral nails on our deck that will not stay down. The
boards are flat on the deck and do not appear to be cupped or warped.
But, within about 3 months of driving the nails down, they are back
up.

Aside from the suggestion to use ring shanked nails or deck screws, you
might also want to investigate why the nails are coming up. It *could* be
just because of general traffic, but it could also be because of especially
warped wood or the fact that it bounces escessively when walked on. Are the
supporting timbers all in good shape and reasonably flat on their edges?

Here in the Sierra foothills a lot of delta rib metal roofing is used.
On some roof one or two screws will work their way out again and again.
No one [ including the mfgs.] has been able to come up with a rational
explanation. You just have to check your roof every year,

Chuck P.

Likely a temperature issue and a point / region that focuses the
heave forces of hot afternoon and freezing nights. Drives rocks from
underground and such.

I bet you could put a screw offset from it - two - both closer to the next
ones - in thirds not in half - and the now free section might just heave
but won't bring up the screws.

Martin

Pilgrim wrote:
In article ,
"Upscale" wrote:

"mg" wrote in message
There are 6 or 8 spiral nails on our deck that will not stay down. The
boards are flat on the deck and do not appear to be cupped or warped.
But, within about 3 months of driving the nails down, they are back
up.
Aside from the suggestion to use ring shanked nails or deck screws, you
might also want to investigate why the nails are coming up. It *could* be
just because of general traffic, but it could also be because of especially
warped wood or the fact that it bounces escessively when walked on. Are the
supporting timbers all in good shape and reasonably flat on their edges?

Here in the Sierra foothills a lot of delta rib metal roofing is used.
On some roof one or two screws will work their way out again and again.
No one [ including the mfgs.] has been able to come up with a rational
explanation. You just have to check your roof every year,

Chuck P.

On Monday, June 22, 2009 at 11:31:41 AM UTC-4, mg wrote:
There are 6 or 8 spiral nails on our deck that will not stay down. The
boards are flat on the deck and do not appear to be cupped or warped.
But, within about 3 months of driving the nails down, they are back
up.
I have used 3 inch drywall screws to build two buildings over ten years ago the screws are in the treated wood and are pulling out and building is falling down, I understand there was a law suit against the dry wall screw, does anyone know where I can find information on this
Thanks
Should I pull the nails and replace them with the next size larger
spiral nail?

Should I pull the nails and replace them with coated deck screws?
--
Email hint - Everything after the @ is spelled backwards.

There are only 10 types of people in the world:
those that understand binary, and
those that don't.

wrote in
:

I have used 3 inch drywall screws to build two buildings over ten
years ago the screws are in the treated wood and are pulling out and
building is falling down, I understand there was a law suit against
the dry wall screw, does anyone know where I can find information on
this Thanks

Sounds like the wrong screw for the material. Drywall screws are for
interior use in untreated wood. You need to use screws intended for
treated lumber, it will say that on the box.

I do remember the formula for treated wood was changed and it took the
screw guys a little time to discover a problem and catch up. One, I think
the older one, was called AC2.

There was also a lawsuit against Chinese-sourced drywall, but it wasn't the
screws at fault in that case.

Puckdropper

On Saturday, September 24, 2016 at 7:43:29 PM UTC-5, wrote:
wrote in
:

I have used 3 inch drywall screws to build two buildings over ten
years ago the screws are in the treated wood and are pulling out and
building is falling down, I understand there was a law suit against
the dry wall screw, does anyone know where I can find information on
this Thanks

Sounds like the wrong screw for the material. Drywall screws are for
interior use in untreated wood. You need to use screws intended for
treated lumber, it will say that on the box.

I do remember the formula for treated wood was changed and it took the
screw guys a little time to discover a problem and catch up. One, I think
the older one, was called AC2.

There was also a lawsuit against Chinese-sourced drywall, but it wasn't the
screws at fault in that case.

Puckdropper

Puck, no offense intended, here, but he's not asking about fixing his screwed-up (sic) (construction) building. The idiot is asking about a lawsuit.

Oldfart(?), go fix your building correctly and stop your pansy-ass, looking to blame someone else, construction problems, on. Folks, here, aren't in tune with your kind of asinine ignorant mindset.

Sonny

On 9/24/2016 11:24 PM, Sonny wrote:


I have used 3 inch drywall screws to build two buildings over ten
years ago the screws are in the treated wood and are pulling out and
building is falling down, I understand there was a law suit against
the dry wall screw, does anyone know where I can find information on
this Thanks

Sounds like the wrong screw for the material. Drywall screws are for
interior use in untreated wood. You need to use screws intended for
treated lumber, it will say that on the box.

I do remember the formula for treated wood was changed and it took the
screw guys a little time to discover a problem and catch up. One, I think
the older one, was called AC2.

There was also a lawsuit against Chinese-sourced drywall, but it wasn't the
screws at fault in that case.

Puckdropper

Puck, no offense intended, here, but he's not asking about fixing his screwed-up (sic) (construction) building. The idiot is asking about a lawsuit.

Oldfart(?), go fix your building correctly and stop your pansy-ass, looking to blame someone else, construction problems, on. Folks, here, aren't in tune with your kind of asinine ignorant mindset.

Sonny


Sounds like there could be a lawsuit but he may end up as the defendant.
Using drywall screws to build a deck is negligence.

On Saturday, September 24, 2016 at 11:24:45 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Saturday, September 24, 2016 at 7:43:29 PM UTC-5, wrote:
wrote in
:

I have used 3 inch drywall screws to build two buildings over ten
years ago the screws are in the treated wood and are pulling out and
building is falling down, I understand there was a law suit against
the dry wall screw, does anyone know where I can find information on
this Thanks

Sounds like the wrong screw for the material. Drywall screws are for
interior use in untreated wood. You need to use screws intended for
treated lumber, it will say that on the box.

I do remember the formula for treated wood was changed and it took the
screw guys a little time to discover a problem and catch up. One, I think
the older one, was called AC2.

There was also a lawsuit against Chinese-sourced drywall, but it wasn't the
screws at fault in that case.

Puckdropper

Puck, no offense intended, here, but he's not asking about fixing his screwed-up (sic) (construction) building. The idiot is asking about a lawsuit.

Oldfart(?), go fix your building correctly and stop your pansy-ass, looking to blame someone else, construction problems, on. Folks, here, aren't in tune with your kind of asinine ignorant mindset.

Sonny

Lawsuit? Nah.

Troll? Yep.

Don't get sucked in.