My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.


-Kevin

wrote:
My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html


Beautiful.

Love the drawer handles on the last one.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Feb 16, 10:37*pm, wrote:
My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. *Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. *It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. * And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. *I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. *This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. *Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.

-Kevin

Bold, refreshing, innovative, brilliant! And that is just my reaction
to the designs. The execution looks great as well. Kudos, bro'.

wrote in message
...
My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.


-Kevin

Good lookin' stuff Keven. I love the designs. You obviously have to work a
little harder to make the drawers and make them fit when doing designs like
this. It was time well spent.

wrote in message
...
My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.


-Kevin

Very nice! Last one is my favorite, but they are all superb works of art.

wrote:
My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.


Those are nice, very creative. Someone also did a first rate job on
lighting them for the photos too. You?



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

tHEOn Tue, 17 Feb 2009 06:41:54 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

wrote:
My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.


Those are nice, very creative. Someone also did a first rate job on
lighting them for the photos too. You?


I noticed that too. The photography is first-rate.

wrote in message
My three latest jewelry boxes:
http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

Very nice. My first thought was that you should get together with an
architect and build a few houses similar in shape to those jewelry boxes.

On Feb 17, 5:47*am, "Upscale" wrote:
wrote in message
My three latest jewelry boxes:
http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

Very nice. My first thought was that you should get together with an
architect and build a few houses similar in shape to those jewelry boxes.

I'm disgusted! Those projects must have been done with Magic! I now
don't feel qualified to wipe down the toolbox of such a Master
Woodworker.

wrote in message
...
My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.


-Kevin


Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical steel
slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?

"Leon" wrote in message
Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical
steel
slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?

Or, maybe undermount slides that aren't visible.

On Feb 17, 9:54*am, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...



My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. *Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. *It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. * And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. *I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. *This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. *Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.

-Kevin

Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical steel
slides on the last one. *May I suggest sliding dado's next time?

Holy shiat... good eye, Leon. And a good point. I didn't even notice
them the first time around, now they stand out like a sore slide.
Yup, they got to go.

*slaps forehead wondering why I didn't see them before....*

r

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Feb 17, 9:54 am, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...



My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.

-Kevin

Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical
steel
slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?

Holy shiat... good eye, Leon. And a good point. I didn't even notice
them the first time around, now they stand out like a sore slide.
Yup, they got to go.

*slaps forehead wondering why I didn't see them before....*
===================================

Now, now guys...., settle down. He may have had good reason to put those
slides on there. He may have some VERY heavy jewelry,,,. or gold bars..., or
spanish bullion. In which case, he would need those metal slides!

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Feb 17, 9:54 am, "Leon" wrote:

Holy shiat... good eye, Leon. And a good point. I didn't even notice
them the first time around, now they stand out like a sore slide.
Yup, they got to go.

*slaps forehead wondering why I didn't see them before....*

But in all fairness, the boxes are top rate. I guess I quickly noticed
because I built 2 jewelry chests about a year ago and all 26 drawers had the
sliding dado's for slides.

Now Kevin did mention that he liked the drawers coming "all" the way out
however he is obviously capable of building to tolerances close enough that
the sliding dado would allow the drawers to be pulled out enough that the
drawer backs would be fully visible. Basically my drawers will open far
enough that only the 1/2" thick drawer back is still inside the cabinet.

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
...



Now, now guys...., settle down. He may have had good reason to put those
slides on there. He may have some VERY heavy jewelry,,,. or gold bars...,
or spanish bullion. In which case, he would need those metal slides!



Good point! But there should have been a lock too, huh? ;~)

On Feb 16, 11:17 pm, -MIKE- wrote:
wrote:
My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

Beautiful.

Love the drawer handles on the last one.

Thanks! I've been in a rut with the handles for a while and the same
simple straight handle with angled sides was what fit the design but I
wanted to change it up some how. They are staggered like that because
the best grain in the drawer fronts made a swirl right through the
center and I didn't want to cover it. I went back and forth
positioning like that for quite a while before committing to it.

-Kevin

On Feb 16, 11:17 pm, Robatoy wrote:
On Feb 16, 10:37 pm, wrote:

My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.

-Kevin

Bold, refreshing, innovative, brilliant! And that is just my reaction
to the designs. The execution looks great as well. Kudos, bro'.

Wow! Thanks!

-Kevin

On Feb 17, 6:41 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
wrote:
My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.

Those are nice, very creative. Someone also did a first rate job on
lighting them for the photos too. You?

Thanks! Yep, I do the photos. When you sell online the photography
is what sells, so it helps to have that as your hobby. I have a good
size light tent, but the second two are too wide for it. My lighting
setup is actually pretty simple though. I have a 4 ft fluorescent
fixture hanging from an upside-down U shaped frame. On the legs of
the U I have 4 clamp lights with CFL bulbs. Everything has the same
color balance. I can turn on/off clamp lights to get more light
coming from one side however I want. The light tent helps diffuse the
light, but with the fluorescents it's already pretty diffuse. But I'm
in trouble if I have to photograph anything bigger than those.


-Kevin

On Feb 17, 9:16 am, wrote:
I'm disgusted! Those projects must have been done with Magic! I now
don't feel qualified to wipe down the toolbox of such a Master
Woodworker.

Ha ha! Actually from a woodworking perspective everything is very
simple. There are a lot of half lap joints and pocket screws in what
I do. If I can do it, you can do it.


-Kevin

On Feb 17, 7:47 am, "Upscale" wrote:
wrote in message
My three latest jewelry boxes:
http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

Very nice. My first thought was that you should get together with an
architect and build a few houses similar in shape to those jewelry boxes.

One of the things I like about doing jewelry boxes is I can get away
with some things that would be too much on the scale of full size
furniture, and you want to go another order of magnitude bigger!


-Kevin

On Feb 17, 9:54 am, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...



My three latest jewelry boxes:

http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html

First one was a real challenge. Second one is pretty simple but my
favorite of the three. It's just 3 layers of 1/8" baltic birch bent
over a board at the center and clamped down, no complicated bending
jig required. And the third one also pretty simple, and the most
functional of the group. I really like using the full extension
slides for access to the whole drawer. This was a bit interesting
because the inside of the box is at about a 4 degree angle, the guides
are at that angle as well. Made fitting the drawers a little
interesting.

-Kevin

Absolutely great Kevin but I was really turned off with the mechanical steel
slides on the last one. May I suggest sliding dado's next time?

When I saw there were 15 posts I knew there had to be some
controversy, heh. Yeah, I don't like to see the steel either. But
they are extremely functional. There really isn't room to undermount
them usually, and nobody makes undermount slides short enough so I
have to use the regular slides on their sides and the ones you can get
short aren't rated for that either. I've tried the ones coated with
white epoxy, and I don't know if I got a bad batch or what but the
epoxy wore right off the ball bearing track and gummed them up so they
didn't operate well even before I finished the piece, so I am
reluctant to try that again. Lee Valley has 75 lb slides that are a
lot lighter though not much smaller and they come down to 8".

The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold the
fastest, so people don't seem to mind. You don't see it when it's
closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
than not.

-Kevin

wrote in message
closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
than not.

Do you even need slides at all? Why not drawers that just slide on a flat
frame with a stop to prevent them from coming all the way out? My chest of
drawers works that way, minus the stop.

wrote in message
...
Snip


The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold the
fastest, so people don't seem to mind. You don't see it when it's
closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
than not.

-Kevin

I will admit, my wife got one of the jewelry chests that I built and I sold
the other before it was finished for $1,200.00. I really don't think that
I could have gotten that amount with mechanical slides.

"Upscale" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
than not.

Do you even need slides at all? Why not drawers that just slide on a flat
frame with a stop to prevent them from coming all the way out? My chest of
drawers works that way, minus the stop.


If I may answer that, ;~) typically a jewelry chest is small, that frame
that typical full sized furniture uses to support the drawers takes up
precious room. Even if the support was only 1/4" thick the loss of storage
area adds up in a hurry. In my particular case I would have lost about
1-3/4" of drawer space and or would have had to sacrifice a couple of
drawers.

On Feb 17, 10:16 am, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
On Feb 17, 9:54 am, "Leon" wrote:

Holy shiat... good eye, Leon. And a good point. I didn't even notice
them the first time around, now they stand out like a sore slide.
Yup, they got to go.

*slaps forehead wondering why I didn't see them before....*

Thank you for making my point

But in all fairness, the boxes are top rate. I guess I quickly noticed
because I built 2 jewelry chests about a year ago and all 26 drawers had the
sliding dado's for slides.

Now Kevin did mention that he liked the drawers coming "all" the way out
however he is obviously capable of building to tolerances close enough that
the sliding dado would allow the drawers to be pulled out enough that the
drawer backs would be fully visible. Basically my drawers will open far
enough that only the 1/2" thick drawer back is still inside the cabinet.

I typically make the back 1/4", which with the ply bottom glued in is
plenty strong. I often like to have the top drawer close to the top
of the box (sometimes I avoid any cross grain situation with the top
and I need no further structure at the top of the box), which can
often overhang the box a fair bit. It's not so much the access to the
other drawers that is a problem, but the top drawer usually the back
inch or more is impossible to get to without pulling out the drawer,
and if you only have 6-7 inches of drawer to start with that is a
lot. I also have concerns that if the drawers are getting pulled
out so that they are almost out and then left hanging there, that's
putting a lot of wear on the back end of the drawer slide groove and
the front of the drawer slide. Plus there's a bit of slop necessary
to account for expansion/ contraction and any possible light warping.
I could fit them tight if I wanted to, but I am shipping these all
over the country so I feel I have to leave a bit more slop than I
would like to make sure they remain operational. With the metal
slides I don't have to worry about it, or have the customer do any
maintenance to wax a wood slide.

-Kevin

wrote:
http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
Beautiful.

Love the drawer handles on the last one.

Thanks! I've been in a rut with the handles for a while and the same
simple straight handle with angled sides was what fit the design but I
wanted to change it up some how. They are staggered like that because
the best grain in the drawer fronts made a swirl right through the
center and I didn't want to cover it. I went back and forth
positioning like that for quite a while before committing to it.

-Kevin

Some of the most elegant "design" feature are completely by accident.

That's why I like the adventure turning. Sometimes, there are things
hidden inside the wood that you don't discover until you turn it down,
which end up dictating the style or design of a piece. I love to let the
wood tell me what to do with it.

In yours, the pulls, along with the "ripple" on the front-right edge of
the top, perfectly contrast and compliment the piece's hard angles,
straight lines, and symmetry.

I also like to leave wood with beautiful color, its natural color.
Which leads me to ask if those Sycamore legs have any stain on them.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Leon wrote:
wrote in message
...
Snip


The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold
the fastest, so people don't seem to mind. You don't see it when
it's closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every
box, but it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably
more often than not.

-Kevin

I will admit, my wife got one of the jewelry chests that I built and
I sold the other before it was finished for $1,200.00. I really
don't think that I could have gotten that amount with mechanical
slides.

Holy bank account...I may take up jewelry boxes

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Feb 17, 12:39 pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...
Snip



The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold the
fastest, so people don't seem to mind. You don't see it when it's
closed, and they are so functional. I don't do it on every box, but
it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
than not.

-Kevin

I will admit, my wife got one of the jewelry chests that I built and I sold
the other before it was finished for $1,200.00. I really don't think that
I could have gotten that amount with mechanical slides.

It's something I just never see anyone else do, but I do think there
is a market there if you explain the benefits of them. Won't be any
woodworkers buying them, but they wouldn't be buying them anyway.

And speaking of prices, that's an area I am always uncomfortable
with. Usually I am selling online, but the last two are going to a
gallery so I feel a little more freedom to ask a fair price, and need
one since I am giving up 40% instead of around 15%. Anyone want to
take a stab at pricing any of the three? I realize I haven't given
dimensions, the second two are around 20" wide, the first one is
around 16" tall and wide at the extremes.

-Kevin

On Feb 17, 1:00 pm, -MIKE- wrote:
wrote:
http://www.krtwood.com/recent.html
Beautiful.

Love the drawer handles on the last one.

Thanks! I've been in a rut with the handles for a while and the same
simple straight handle with angled sides was what fit the design but I
wanted to change it up some how. They are staggered like that because
the best grain in the drawer fronts made a swirl right through the
center and I didn't want to cover it. I went back and forth
positioning like that for quite a while before committing to it.

-Kevin

Some of the most elegant "design" feature are completely by accident.

That's why I like the adventure turning. Sometimes, there are things
hidden inside the wood that you don't discover until you turn it down,
which end up dictating the style or design of a piece. I love to let the
wood tell me what to do with it.

For a good while I was doing more mission type of stuff and I was
telling the wood what to do, but I have been having a lot of full with
some odd shaped pieces of wood that I get with no idea of what I am
going to do with them. They sit around for a while and I pull them
out and look at them, shrug and put them back. Then eventually either
I have an idea that they fit or the idea comes while I am looking at
them. I really like to start a project knowing mostly what I am going
to be doing, but leaving some things open to be figured out as I go
along.

Sometimes that gets me into trouble, like on that first box which had
to be taken almost completely down to nothing and started over. And
then when I had it all redone I was gluing something and took one step
away to reach a clamp and it took that opportunity to make a suicide
leap off the bench to the concrete. Which it actually survived
without *too* much damage, but I did more cursing during that project
than working. If it had been summer I would have taken that sucker
out to the driveway and used the sledgehammer on it, but it's just too
darn cold out so I had to keep working on it instead.

In yours, the pulls, along with the "ripple" on the front-right edge of
the top, perfectly contrast and compliment the piece's hard angles,
straight lines, and symmetry.

I also like to leave wood with beautiful color, its natural color.
Which leads me to ask if those Sycamore legs have any stain on them.

The legs are bubinga, the top and the rails are sycamore. The legs
are from a quartersawn piece of 8/4 bubinga, which it turns out has a
really boring grain pattern on the quartersawn grain, but it makes
good legs at least.

-Kevin

I also like to leave wood with beautiful color, its natural color.
Which leads me to ask if those Sycamore legs have any stain on them.

The legs are bubinga, the top and the rails are sycamore. The legs
are from a quartersawn piece of 8/4 bubinga, which it turns out has a
really boring grain pattern on the quartersawn grain, but it makes
good legs at least.

-Kevin


Now I feel like a dumbass. :-)

Now that I'm thinking about it, the legs do have that Bubinga color.
I haven't been around Sycamore enough to know...
in fact it looks like Cocobolo sapwood to me.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

wrote in message
...


Snip


I typically make the back 1/4", which with the ply bottom glued in is
plenty strong. I often like to have the top drawer close to the top
of the box (sometimes I avoid any cross grain situation with the top
and I need no further structure at the top of the box), which can
often overhang the box a fair bit. It's not so much the access to the
other drawers that is a problem, but the top drawer usually the back
inch or more is impossible to get to without pulling out the drawer,
and if you only have 6-7 inches of drawer to start with that is a
lot. I also have concerns that if the drawers are getting pulled
out so that they are almost out and then left hanging there, that's
putting a lot of wear on the back end of the drawer slide groove and
the front of the drawer slide. Plus there's a bit of slop necessary
to account for expansion/ contraction and any possible light warping.
I could fit them tight if I wanted to, but I am shipping these all
over the country so I feel I have to leave a bit more slop than I
would like to make sure they remain operational. With the metal
slides I don't have to worry about it, or have the customer do any
maintenance to wax a wood slide.

-Kevin


Something to consider and this has been discussed time and again. Many
times the question has been asked, what material should I use for drawer
sides. The common answer and a correct one is any material you want.
Through the years I have pretty much proven time and again that the harder
the wood that you use for the drawer sides and for the slide or frame that
the drawer will slide on the longer the drawer will last and the better the
drawer will slide. About 28 years ago I built our Oak frame dresser and
built the drawer sides out of pine know knowing any better at the time. The
drawers have always been draggy from the friction between the pine and oak.
Varnish, wax, dry lube never really helped the matter. Additionally if you
pull a drawer out you will see pine dust where the drawer bottoms are slowly
wearing down.
About 4 years later I built night stand chests and built the drawers
and frame entirely out of oak. To this day there is no visible wear and the
drawers still slide in and out as easily as if they were on ball bearing
slides. Now I always try to build the drawers and their contact points out
of as hard of a material as I can so that there is a long life expectancy
and easy smooth movement.

On Feb 17, 2:35*pm, wrote:
On Feb 17, 12:39 pm, "Leon" wrote:



wrote in message

....
Snip

The first time I used them exposed like that was the box that sold the
fastest, so people don't seem to mind. *You don't see it when it's
closed, and they are so functional. *I don't do it on every box, but
it's definitely something I will keep doing and probably more often
than not.

-Kevin

I will admit, my wife got one of the jewelry chests that I built and I sold
the other before it was finished for $1,200.00. * I really don't think that
I could have gotten that amount with mechanical slides.

It's something I just never see anyone else do, but I do think there
is a market there if you explain the benefits of them. *Won't be any
woodworkers buying them, but they wouldn't be buying them anyway.

Which woodworker could possibly afford one of those? :-}

And speaking of prices, that's an area I am always uncomfortable
with. *

Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
do, what to do.

Usually I am selling online, but the last two are going to a
gallery so I feel a little more freedom to ask a fair price, and need
one since I am giving up 40% instead of around 15%. *Anyone want to
take a stab at pricing any of the three? *I realize I haven't given
dimensions, the second two are around 20" wide, the first one is
around 16" tall and wide at the extremes.

-Kevin

Robatoy wrote:

Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
do, what to do.

Triple the price to buyers - and present 'em as donations to the Legion.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

Robatoy wrote:
....
Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
do, what to do.
....

If your doing this as part of the business and keeping books rather than
just cash transactions you can claim the difference between fair market
and your charge to them as business expense for a relatively small
number such as that. If it were to turn to really large numbers, then
you obviously have the necessity to make it have to be worth the time
although one would assume there would be the "economy of scale" pricing
there as well.

What you do for one doesn't have to necessarily match what you do for
the other.

--

wrote in message
...
On Feb 17, 12:39 pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

It's something I just never see anyone else do, but I do think there
is a market there if you explain the benefits of them. Won't be any
woodworkers buying them, but they wouldn't be buying them anyway.

Exactly. High end jewelry boxes are rather unique, and the one I sold was
about 1/2 the price of the High End ones that I have seen. It is hard to
sell in bigger quantities because most of the public is not interested in
the quality of the work. They feel that they have spent a fortune on their
jewelry, they typically don't want to spend a small fortune on a box to keep
it in. Woodworkers turly appreciate the craftsmanship but they can do it
themselves.
I think what most people don't understand in today's "immediate
gratification world" is that what they are buying at Sears, or Walmart is
not going to look or even feel the same in 5 years. The new has worn off
and they are conditioned by furniture not lasting and having to replace it
every so many years. Couple with that the fact that styles change and their
old Sears or Ikea stuff looks dated. Why does it look dated? BECAUSE IT IS
CHEAP!
Quality always looks good and is always in style. If you don't believe
that, take a look at what antique furniture goes for these days. You just
have to find the right kind of customer. I am finishing up on a small job
and was at an upholstery shop buying fabric with my wife. We ran into a guy
that was buying new fabric for an 1860's sofa that he said had the original
finish. He was buying frilly 3" buttons and tassels to put on the end of
the arm rests. He mentioned that he was thinking about asking $24K when he
was ready to resale it.


And speaking of prices, that's an area I am always uncomfortable
with. Usually I am selling online, but the last two are going to a
gallery so I feel a little more freedom to ask a fair price, and need
one since I am giving up 40% instead of around 15%. Anyone want to
take a stab at pricing any of the three? I realize I haven't given
dimensions, the second two are around 20" wide, the first one is
around 16" tall and wide at the extremes.

"IMHO"

All 3 are probably not going to be large enough to command high dollar for
storage. You may very well get a pretty good asking price for the
art/design aspect on them however. Providing the pictures are not hiding
any problems and with the right group of customers I could see at least
$600, possibly much more. It will all depend on who is looking. Again, the
metal slides could bring the price down from my guess.

Take a look here, I was inspired by the chest on this site and made my small
modifications and changes and drew the complete set of plans using the
dimensions as a guide. I built my 2 chests based on the Gerstner 24K Crown
Jewelry Chests. Notice the price at the bottom of the page. I sold mine
for about 1/2 that price and I would not hesitate to compare them side by
side. I made mine from maple with tiger maple veneer on the drawer fronts.
the front doors had Saplted Oak center panels surrounded by Maple.

http://www.gerstnerusa.com/jewelry/24k.htm

Also take a look here for a more simple elegant design that is serious about
providing storage for lots of jewelry.

http://www.westcreekstudio.com/chests.html

and even larger chests

http://www.westcreekstudio.com/cabinets.html

and then there is this site

http://www.alladd.com/index.htm

I think with the right exposure you could easily fit into this end of the
category. But about those steel slides. :~)

On Feb 17, 3:09 pm, "Leon" wrote:
Something to consider and this has been discussed time and again. Many
times the question has been asked, what material should I use for drawer
sides. The common answer and a correct one is any material you want.
Through the years I have pretty much proven time and again that the harder
the wood that you use for the drawer sides and for the slide or frame that
the drawer will slide on the longer the drawer will last and the better the
drawer will slide. About 28 years ago I built our Oak frame dresser and
built the drawer sides out of pine know knowing any better at the time. The
drawers have always been draggy from the friction between the pine and oak.
Varnish, wax, dry lube never really helped the matter. Additionally if you
pull a drawer out you will see pine dust where the drawer bottoms are slowly
wearing down.
About 4 years later I built night stand chests and built the drawers
and frame entirely out of oak. To this day there is no visible wear and the
drawers still slide in and out as easily as if they were on ball bearing
slides. Now I always try to build the drawers and their contact points out
of as hard of a material as I can so that there is a long life expectancy
and easy smooth movement.

I like to make my drawer boxes out of poplar, for a few reasons. Easy
to machine. I can get it in s2s 8/4 with little price premium and
just rip it to 1/4" thickness for the front/back and 5/8" for the
sides and it's instant drawer parts. Much less waste than dealing
with 4/4. I end up with quartersawn boards, which we can pretend is
relevantly more stable on an 1-3/4" wide board. And by having it as a
secondary wood I can have a bunch of it prepared ahead of time all at
once rather than match to the outside wood. Of course poplar isn't
very hard though.

-Kevin

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Feb 17, 2:35 pm, wrote:
On Feb 17, 12:39 pm, "Leon" wrote:

Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each. Then I get a
call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
do, what to do.



Keep in mind that 50 vs. 1 allows for a lot more wiggle room. As you well
know setup time is a big and real cost. Doing something 50 times with the
same set up is normally not too much more work than doing a set up for 1.

I would much rather make less per hour, not as much as you are considering,
if I can get in to a mass production setting with a back log than doing a 1
at a time thing.

On Feb 17, 3:14 pm, Robatoy wrote:
Which woodworker could possibly afford one of those? :-}

I underprice substantially. They can as long as I continue to be
young, stupid and desperate. I'm stretching the young part these
days, but the other two still apply Most I've ever sold a box for
was $650, and that was two weeks of work.

And speaking of prices, that's an area I am always uncomfortable
with.

Yup, that's my dilemma these days. I'm doing some artsy-fartsy things
with my router and people pick up one of my sculpted maple leaves and
want one..but then I'm at a loss. To me, it is truly waste/scrap with
15 minutes of machining time. So $ 60.00 it is, each.

Gah! Where are these people and why do they never come to visit me?
I get to deal with the people who want a custom made somethingorother
for $15. I can't even figure out what you want for less than $15 of
labor and I haven't done anything yet.

Then I get a
call from the Legion, they want to decorate 50 soldiers' graves with
them... then I can't, with a clear conscience, ask them for that much.
BUT.. if I tell them, say $ 15.00 each, and the rest of the country
orders 5000 of them, all other projects stop and I have to make
money.... quite a dilemma. Now it's no longer scrap either. What to
do, what to do.

Send them to me

-Kevin

"PDQ" wrote in message
...



Don't think time is a function. At $60 a pop the bill would be about
$3,000.

Should be all he needs is a receipt for tax purposes from the Legion.

P D Q

You are probably right if they issue a receipt. I doubt however if it could
actually be a tax credit rather than a deduction if itemizing here in the
US. But he is in Canada and who knows how that works up there.

On Feb 17, 3:56 pm, "Leon" wrote:

Exactly. High end jewelry boxes are rather unique, and the one I sold was
about 1/2 the price of the High End ones that I have seen. It is hard to
sell in bigger quantities because most of the public is not interested in
the quality of the work. They feel that they have spent a fortune on their
jewelry, they typically don't want to spend a small fortune on a box to keep
it in.

That's the part that drives me crazy. You'll spend $100 on one piece
of jewelry, or even way more than that, but you want the box that
holds all of them to cost less than that!

All 3 are probably not going to be large enough to command high dollar for
storage. You may very well get a pretty good asking price for the
art/design aspect on them however.

I agree with that. For a while I had the mindset of not wanting to
waste any space inside the box whatsoever, it had to be practical.
I've let go of that for a while and am just having fun, but I have
gone a little too far with some of them. But I figure that not
everyone who has money to spend necessarily has tons of jewelry and
they may appreciate a smaller box that's unique, and as you provided
links to show people already have names established for high end work
with big storage. I do have a couple of lines of more storage
oriented boxes, nothing really big though. And no metal slides

http://www.krtwood.com/curves.html
http://www.krtwood.com/mission.html

I've been planning to do a larger version of the Curves box, I have
the doors partially made but have been putting off working on it. I
should do some larger pieces, I am just reluctant to invest a lot of
time and materials into the larger stuff. The one I am working on
now, I have done the top without knowing what's going under it, and
it's good size so perhaps I'll make this one a bit larger than normal.

Providing the pictures are not hiding
any problems and with the right group of customers I could see at least
$600, possibly much more. It will all depend on who is looking. Again, the
metal slides could bring the price down from my guess.

I have the first one priced at $400 on Etsy. My own website gets
hardly any traffic (except the page I put up about my shop built drum
sander), I've had a box sit in a consignment shop for a year and then
get returned to me. We'll see how the new gallery turns out.
Sometimes I am just tempted to just double the price of everything and
see what happens.

http://www.alladd.com/index.htm

I like the work, but don't like the attitude that comes with it.
That's one area that maybe holds me back. I'm not going to talk about
myself as if what I am doing is museum quality this and finest that,
and maybe the people with the $$ need to hear that kind of stuff, but
they won't hear it from me. I just want to smack that guy. But he's
probably only saying it because that's what he thinks people want to
hear, and maybe he's right.

I guess I would rather sell things that maybe they are under priced
but it's still a lot of money to the person buying it and something
they will really appreciate and love, than something somebody bought
because it was expensive which is the feeling I get from a lot of
these sites. But I get more messages from people saying how they love
one of the boxes and would buy it if they had the money than I do
sales. In a way I appreciate those messages more than the sales, but
at the same time it doesn't pay the bills.

-Kevin