Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so
drafty that during last week's cold weather, ice was forming on the interior side. Well my wife demanded that a new door has to rise to the top of the long list of woodworking projects that never get done. Hey I've been working on her buffet piece for nine months and still not half way there. But to my question. Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. Thanks for any guidance |
#2
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 18:38:12 -0800 (PST), Warbler
wrote: My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during last week's cold weather, ice was forming on the interior side. Well my wife demanded that a new door has to rise to the top of the long list of woodworking projects that never get done. Hey I've been working on her buffet piece for nine months and still not half way there. But to my question. Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. Thanks for any guidance I've built many doors in the last few years including this one http://www.geocities.com/lenhow/Bertuz014.jpg and it is a challenging and rewarding process. It isn't, however, neccessarily the most cost effective venture, lol. If you should decide to procede with it you might look for the episode of the NYW where Norm built a new front entrance door. Also as I recall Woodsmith did an issue on building an entry door. My best advice is Mortise and Tenon joinery and choose and prepare your stock wisely ! Best of Luck Lenny |
#3
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Warbler" wrote:
Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. Take a look at the NYW episode where Norm built an exterior door. Personally, I'd take a hard look at a project like this before undertaking it, based on the availability of composite doors which are not only more stable, but have better insulating qualities, and probably are less costly. Lew |
#4
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Warbler" wrote: Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. Take a look at the NYW episode where Norm built an exterior door. Personally, I'd take a hard look at a project like this before undertaking it, based on the availability of composite doors which are not only more stable, but have better insulating qualities, and probably are less costly. Lew And sometimes I think this group should be the rec.mdfworking rather than rec.woodworking :-) I like Norms door and probably will build it, using quarter sawn white oak. If the panels are 3 ply cross laminated, they will resist splitting. If the door opening is a non-standard dimension, then composite or steel doors cannot be sized to fit. If you have leaded glass you want to keep, a ready made door will not suffice either. There are some that prefer fiberglass boats, but then I have never seen a Herrshoff 28 out of fiberglass. I still would entertain building one if I had the energy. Check the following link. http://www.edgewoodyc.org/h28/ |
#5
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Warbler" wrote in message ... My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during last week's cold weather, ice was forming on the interior side. Well my wife demanded that a new door has to rise to the top of the long list of woodworking projects that never get done. Hey I've been working on her buffet piece for nine months and still not half way there. But to my question. Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. Thanks for any guidance With the information you provided, you should probably look into buying a door. |
#6
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Lowell Holmes" wrote:
There are some that prefer fiberglass boats, but then I have never seen a Herrshoff 28 out of fiberglass. I still would entertain building one if I had the energy. If God wanted man to have fiberglass boats, he would have given us fiberglass trees.grin Lew (Fiberglass boat builder) |
#7
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Leon" wrote in message ... "Warbler" wrote in message ... My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during last week's cold weather, ice was forming on the interior side. Well my wife demanded that a new door has to rise to the top of the long list of woodworking projects that never get done. Hey I've been working on her buffet piece for nine months and still not half way there. But to my question. Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. Thanks for any guidance With the information you provided, you should probably look into buying a door. I have a book on doors published by Fine Homebuilding. Mario Rodriquez has a book on colonial style housing that I think has something about doors. You will have to size and straighten boards. The tools I have had to use in the past on door construction included a table saw, jointer, shaper and many clamps. For entry doors, mortise and tenon joints are preferable, although cope and stick joinery will work. |
#8
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Lowell Holmes wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Warbler" wrote: Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. Take a look at the NYW episode where Norm built an exterior door. Personally, I'd take a hard look at a project like this before undertaking it, based on the availability of composite doors which are not only more stable, but have better insulating qualities, and probably are less costly. Lew And sometimes I think this group should be the rec.mdfworking rather than rec.woodworking :-) I like Norms door and probably will build it, using quarter sawn white oak. If the panels are 3 ply cross laminated, they will resist splitting. If the door opening is a non-standard dimension, then composite or steel doors cannot be sized to fit. If you have leaded glass you want to keep, a ready made door will not suffice either. There are some that prefer fiberglass boats, but then I have never seen a Herrshoff 28 out of fiberglass. Middleton Marine. I still would entertain building one if I had the energy. Check the following link. http://www.edgewoodyc.org/h28/ -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#9
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Dec 30, 10:31*pm, "Leon" wrote:
Thanks for any guidance With the information you provided, you should probably look into buying a door. Sweet. To the point. Leon strikes again. Listen to Leon. Do you want to go to the lumberyard and pick out your own lumber? Do you know what to look for? Are you sure it is dried properly? Have you priced the actual materials? Can you shape the materials you will be working with using your current tools? Do you have the correct clamps to span your door width? Do you have a bed or table to use to make sure the door is dead square? Can you cut the bevel on the door down its length? Do you have the skills to bore and mortise the locksets? Can you mortise the hinges in the door, and match them to the frame? If you any doubts, price a door and think about what you are getting. Listen to Leon. Robert |
#10
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Warbler wrote:
My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during last week's cold weather, ice was forming on the interior side. Well my wife demanded that a new door has to rise to the top of the long list of woodworking projects that never get done. Hey I've been working on her buffet piece for nine months and still not half way there. But to my question. Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. Thanks for any guidance Have you ever built a frame & panel cabinet door? Entry/passage doors are done in essentially the same manner, just bigger & beefier. Hint: loose tenons to join rails & stiles make life easier, YMMV. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#11
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Listen to Leon.
Robert Listen to Robert. I am not a pro, but a very serious hobbyist. In the last 12 months, I have done both: bought and built. I built 3 interior frame and pannel doors and bought one exterior fiberglass door. The original exterior door was a beautiful 40" wide 150 year old door.. it just leaked like a seive. In a northern NY climate it was just not working. Without a doubt, it was a compromise, comfort v.s. style. Building closet doors to match the rest of the house was quite a bit of effort, but the margin for error interms of fit/flat/square are nearly an order of magnitude larger that for an exterior door. Maybe if you were in a mild climate where the impact of leakage was minimal I would go for it, but it sounds like weather tightness big requirement. -Steve |
#12
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() wrote in message ... On Dec 30, 10:31 pm, "Leon" wrote: Thanks for any guidance With the information you provided, you should probably look into buying a door. Sweet. To the point. Leon strikes again. Listen to Leon. Do you want to go to the lumberyard and pick out your own lumber? Do you know what to look for? Are you sure it is dried properly? Have you priced the actual materials? Can you shape the materials you will be working with using your current tools? Do you have the correct clamps to span your door width? Do you have a bed or table to use to make sure the door is dead square? Can you cut the bevel on the door down its length? Do you have the skills to bore and mortise the locksets? Can you mortise the hinges in the door, and match them to the frame? If you any doubts, price a door and think about what you are getting. Listen to Leon. Robert That Too! My suggestion was solely based on the fact the he has a list of things that never get done and has a project that is not half finished after 9 months. If he has ice forming on the interior side of the door the energy bill to warm the house has to be considerably higher than if the door was better fitting and insulated. Given his stated speed in finishing a project it will probably be summer before the door would be completed should he decide to go ahead and build one. I would have to believe that with the current situation a newly purchased and installed door would probably pay for itself in energy savings during "this" season. Take care of the immediate problem with a prebuilt and hung door now and then after considering Roberts good advise and list of things to consider build a door in your leisure time at a pace you are comfortable with. My suggestion was from a purely economical point of view. |
#13
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Dec 30, 9:38*pm, Warbler wrote:
Go to Home Depot. Buy a pre--hung insulated Fiberglass Door and install it carefully. (or, buy a Steel Insulated door - I saw one after Thanksgiving for $99 with an oval insulateed glass insert!). Then, over the nasty Winter, you can relax in the draftless home while you find out how and plan and acquire the wood and tools and begin to cut the pieces and fit them and trim them up and assemble them and sand and seal and finish and get ready to welcome the Spring flowers with your latest creation. Swap the doors out in the nice weather and sell the "Hardly used 3-0 RH Outswing pre-hung door @ 70% of retail. And, if, by chance, the new creation is not ready 'till Summer, or this year or next, the peace gained from the draftless doorway will seem well worth the discount taken when you do finish the job as intended. |
#14
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 18:38:12 -0800 (PST), Warbler
wrote: My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during last week's cold weather, ice was forming on the interior side. Well my wife demanded that a new door has to rise to the top of the long list of woodworking projects that never get done. Hey I've been working on her buffet piece for nine months and still not half way there. But to my question. Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. Thanks for any guidance If for some reason you decide to go against the good advice of Leon, Robert and all that replied, and do indeed tackle this project, let me offer a few tips. Purchase your stock (in the rough) from a reputable mill to insure it's properly dried (check it's moisture content if possible). Pick the two straightest pieces for your stiles. Assuming you have a good longbed jointer and planer, joint one face until absolutely flat. Now plane to within 1/8" of your final thickness. Let it set for a few days to see how it stabilizes. Better to reject pieces now than the whole door later. Usually pieces will not be perfectly straight. Pick the straightest stile for the strike side ( the hinges will help to straighten the hinge side stile). Also keep in mind which face is Inside/outside so any slight curve in the stile will hit the jamb first at the top and bottom. Clear as mud ? And now that you've read that go buy a door. =0 ) Lenny |
#15
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Dec 31, 3:30*pm, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Dec 2008 18:38:12 -0800 (PST), Warbler wrote: My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during last week's cold weather, ice was forming on the interior side. *Well my wife demanded that a new door has to rise to the top of the long list of woodworking projects that never get done. Hey I've been working on her buffet piece for nine months and still not half way there. *But to my question. *Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. *I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. Thanks for any guidance If for some reason you decide to go against the good advice of Leon, Robert and all that replied, and do indeed tackle this project, let me offer a few tips. Purchase your stock (in the rough) *from a reputable mill to insure it's properly dried (check it's moisture content if possible). Pick the two straightest pieces for your stiles. Assuming you have a good longbed jointer and planer, joint one face until absolutely flat. Now plane to within 1/8" of your final thickness. Let it set for a few days to see how it stabilizes. Better to reject pieces now than the whole door later. Usually pieces will not be perfectly straight. Pick the straightest stile for the strike side ( the hinges will help to straighten the hinge side stile). Also keep in mind which face is Inside/outside so any slight curve in the stile will hit the jamb first at the top and bottom. Clear as mud ? And now that you've read that go buy a door. * =0 ) Lenny Lots of suggestions to go buy a door versus build. In all my limited years (about 10) of woodworking I've rarely built anything that couldn't be found cheaper purchased at one of those furniture import shops (West Elm, Pier One, iKea). I tolerate that stuff in my house only when my wife nags me to either finish the project or she is going to buy it on our credit card. Good news is that she appreciates my craftmanship, the credit card is maxed out and she loves to shop for quality wood. |
#16
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Warbler" wrote in message Lots of suggestions to go buy a door versus build. In all my limited years (about 10) of woodworking I've rarely built anything that couldn't be found cheaper purchased at one of those furniture import Sure, you're right, but I think most of the woodworkers here build for the pleasure of it and the pride of doing it yourself. You'll never get that feeling buying a door. Of course, the OP's statement that he's experiencing ice on the inside of his door would probably be enough impetus for me to buy a new door, eliminate those drafts as soon as possible and get my woodworking pride from some other project. |
#17
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Upscale" wrote in message
... Lots of suggestions to go buy a door versus build. In all my limited years (about 10) of woodworking I've rarely built anything that couldn't be found cheaper purchased at one of those furniture import Sure, you're right, but I think most of the woodworkers here build for the pleasure of it and the pride of doing it yourself. You'll never get that feeling buying a door. Of course, the OP's statement that he's experiencing ice on the inside of his door would probably be enough impetus for me to buy a new door, eliminate those drafts as soon as possible and get my woodworking pride from some other project. Duct tape, aka 200 mph tape, aka the ultimate power tool. That and a roll of poly film will get ya through a few more winters. Plenty of time to whittle that door. |
#18
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Warbler" wrote:
Lots of suggestions to go buy a door versus build. In all my limited years (about 10) of woodworking I've rarely built anything that couldn't be found cheaper purchased at one of those furniture import shops (West Elm, Pier One, iKea). I tolerate that stuff in my house only when my wife nags me to either finish the project or she is going to buy it on our credit card. Good news is that she appreciates my craftmanship, the credit card is maxed out and she loves to shop for quality wood. If, after you buy them books, they eat the covers...... Lew |
#19
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I also have a long list of projects that I would like to build, which
is exactly why I installed a fiberglass door, painted on exterior and stained interior. Could I have dropped all my other projects and built one? Yes but it wouldnt have the R value, and guarantee of not warping. I still might make a second door with a removable screen and glass storm panel to add to the same entryway.Warbler buy a door and finish the buffet. The purchased door will pay for itself. |
#20
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Dec 30 2008, 9:38*pm, Warbler wrote:
My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during last week's cold weather, ice was forming on the interior side. *Well my wife demanded that a new door has to rise to the top of the long list of woodworking projects that never get done. Hey I've been working on her buffet piece for nine months and still not half way there. *But to my question. *Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. *I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. Thanks for any guidance Does the existing door have any historical value? If it does, it might be worth rehabbing it. If it doesn't, it might be worth a visit to an architectural salvage company to look for a door appropriate to the period and style of the house. Have you thought about putting a storm door over the existing door? You can get a thin frame door with store door insulating glass that will allow the old door to show while giving you some of the energy savings you are looking for. Rehabbing old doors means taking them entirely apart, cleaning up the glue lines of the joinery, repairing splits and structural flaws, etc. If it is a good old door, the exercise can be an education. tom |
#21
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Tom Watson" wrote in message ... On Dec 30 2008, 9:38 pm, Warbler wrote: Does the existing door have any historical value? If it does, it might be worth rehabbing it. If it doesn't, it might be worth a visit to an architectural salvage company to look for a door appropriate to the period and style of the house. Have you thought about putting a storm door over the existing door? You can get a thin frame door with store door insulating glass that will allow the old door to show while giving you some of the energy savings you are looking for. Rehabbing old doors means taking them entirely apart, cleaning up the glue lines of the joinery, repairing splits and structural flaws, etc. If it is a good old door, the exercise can be an education. tom And it sounds like a fun project too! |
#22
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Consider the Lowes or Home Depot version:
1. 30 minutes to pick it out... 2. Pay the man/woman on the way out 3. Wait for call from installer 4. Watch installation 5. Admire door every time you walk by. 6. Continue with life time project of buffet. Warbler wrote: My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during last week's cold weather, ice was forming on the interior side. Well my wife demanded that a new door has to rise to the top of the long list of woodworking projects that never get done. Hey I've been working on her buffet piece for nine months and still not half way there. But to my question. Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. Thanks for any guidance |
#23
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Warbler wrote: My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during last week's cold weather,[...] "Pat Barber" wrote in message ... Consider the Lowes or Home Depot version: No. Don't even consider it if your house is that old. But you know that don't you? Tim W |
#24
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Tom Watson" wrote in message ... On Dec 30 2008, 9:38 pm, Warbler wrote: My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty that during [...] Does the existing door have any historical value? If it does, it might be worth rehabbing it. [...] Rehabbing old doors means taking them entirely apart, cleaning up the glue lines of the joinery, repairing splits and structural flaws, etc. If it is a good old door, the exercise can be an education. This is good advice. I do this all day long professionally. When you are working with historic buildings the golden rule is you never, never lose any of the historical fabric unecessarily. That means that I am employed to repair, repair and repair. Often I repair repairs. A good job is not one where it looks like new but one where it looks like you haven't touched it. If the door is old it may have no glue in the mortice and tenons and you will be able to take them apart. Don't strip off old paint unecessarily. Use sharp hand tools and be prepared to resharpen a lot. Make long scarfs. wood patches are far preferable to filler. Patch and repair with the closest you can find to the original timber. Polyeurethane glue or sometimes epoxy. Discreet use of stainless steel pins can save the day. ( A favourite trick with old wobbly joinery is to use stainless threaded studding as a dowel with adhesive ) Good luck. Ask me if you want any specific advice. Tim W |
#25
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Warbler" wrote in message ... My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty ..... ...... Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. I have see those Dublin Front doors posters. I am sure you are on the right track. Is the old door not actually old? Should you copy it? If not you need references of doors of the period. You need to look carefully at the style of the building and try to find a match. It really all depends. I have some reprints of works by Asher Benjamin but maybe the house isn't in the classical style. Tim W |
#26
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Tim W wrote:
"Warbler" wrote in message ... My house (vintage 1836) has a beat up exterior wood door that is so drafty ..... ..... Are there any good sources (books?) that go into all the details on how to build a a top quality wood door. I remember seeing posters of all the classic doors from Dublin & NYC and thougth someone has written on this subject with a woodworker in mind. I have see those Dublin Front doors posters. I am sure you are on the right track. Is the old door not actually old? Should you copy it? If not you need references of doors of the period. You need to look carefully at the style of the building and try to find a match. It really all depends. I have some reprints of works by Asher Benjamin but maybe the house isn't in the classical style. http://www.amazon.com/Make-Your-Hand.../dp/0806965444 goes through the procedures. Plan on ruining a few and start small. Note that the tools are not cheap (a rail and stile set for exterior doors costs about the same as a door--Hell, at the point the _book_ costs as much as a door--then there are 8 foot clamps, a flat assembly surface large enough to hold a door, etc.) If it's something one really wants to do then by all means one should have at it. But it's _not_ a way to save money over buying a door. -- -- --John to email, dial "usenet" and validate (was jclarke at eye bee em dot net) |
#27
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
It was fairly clear that the post was concerning
"how to build a exterior door", which is certainly not a trivial or reasonable thing to expect from what appears to be a complete novice. Why didn't you explain the typical cost involved in such a project ? (1) Finding clear and perfect kiln dried lumber (2) Tools and shop setup for door making (3) Special tools required for all door hardware. (4) Door hardware (5) Knowledge of how to hang the door in what is almost certainly not a perfect opening. (6) Proper finish (7) door making skill set The tool set required for the lockset and hinges is several hundred dollars. Exactly what would he be saving ? There is any number of companies that make the "correct" door for any age house Tim W wrote: No. Don't even consider it if your house is that old. But you know that don't you? Tim W |
#28
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Pat Barber" wrote in message
... It was fairly clear that the post was concerning "how to build a exterior door", which is certainly not a trivial or reasonable thing to expect from what appears to be a complete novice. Why didn't you explain the typical cost involved in such a project ? (1) Finding clear and perfect kiln dried lumber Likely, because of the stated historic value of the home and presumably the door. In that circumstance, outright replacement is a temporary expedient for the weather only. If that's not the case, we all agree that it shouldn't be undertaken lightly. |
#29
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Pat Barber wrote:
It was fairly clear that the post was concerning "how to build a exterior door", which is certainly not a trivial or reasonable thing to expect from what appears to be a complete novice. Why didn't you explain the typical cost involved in such a project ? (1) Finding clear and perfect kiln dried lumber (2) Tools and shop setup for door making (3) Special tools required for all door hardware. (4) Door hardware (5) Knowledge of how to hang the door in what is almost certainly not a perfect opening. (6) Proper finish (7) door making skill set The tool set required for the lockset and hinges is several hundred dollars. One does not have to have it/them, it isn't all that hard to make plywood templates. Those and a router can do a splendid job. Granted, if one were making doors all the time the comerrcial ones would do it better and/or faster. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#30
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Pat Barber writes:
It was fairly clear that the post was concerning "how to build a exterior door", which is certainly not a trivial or reasonable thing to expect from what appears to be a complete novice. Why didn't you explain the typical cost involved in such a project ? (1) Finding clear and perfect kiln dried lumber Doable, and FWIW, it need be neither; albeit both help. (2) Tools and shop setup for door making Only if you're making 100 doors. One-off doors can be built entirely with hand tools (How do you think they made the original in 1860whatever?) (3) Special tools required for all door hardware. Really? A chisel can't be used to make the hinge mortices? A forstner bit can't drill the hole for the knob hardware? A spade bit can't be used to drill the deadbolt hole? (4) Door hardware Doable. (5) Knowledge of how to hang the door in what is almost certainly not a perfect opening. Difficult, but not impossible. (6) Proper finish A bit of research is all that's necessary here. (7) door making skill set What better way than to learn on the job? The tool set required for the lockset and hinges is several hundred dollars. Oh bolongne. If you're doing 100 doors, this would be nice, but for a single door? Give me a break. scott |
#31
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Jan 6, 4:57*pm, "J. Clarke" wrote:
http://www.amazon.com/Make-Your-Hand.../dp/0806965444 goes through the procedures. * I second the notion of getting that book. It's pretty good on door- making, not so good on windows. When I made exterior doors, what I did was to make an outside frame of 2X2 clear cedar (ripped from 2X4s) and 1/8" door skins, giving a 1-3/4" thick door, which is standard for exterior doors. I filled the interior space with 1-1/2" extruded styrofoam, and a piece of 2X6 where the lockest is to go. Everything glued with Wellbond glue. To give appearance of a frame and panel door, I glued on 3/4" thick cedar, with a routed edge. So the whole door ended up 2-1/4" thick. I went to my friendly neighbourhood locksmith to make the lockset fit the thicker, non-standard door. If you have nay questions, send me an email at recnorm at the domain name below my name. Luigi Zanasi www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking |
#32
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I don't think you and I have the same ideas
on how to build a door. Your points are taken but VERY few folks would even consider doing it using your methods. I have hung many doors and installed many lock sets and hinges using your methods. I would never suggest those methods to a beginner woodworker. I have also never built a exterior door or have any plans to do so. Scott Lurndal wrote: What better way than to learn on the job? |
#33
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Thu, 08 Jan 2009 16:36:53 GMT, Pat Barber cast forth these pearls of
wisdom...: I don't think you and I have the same ideas on how to build a door. Your points are taken but VERY few folks would even consider doing it using your methods. I have hung many doors and installed many lock sets and hinges using your methods. I would never suggest those methods to a beginner woodworker. I didn't see anything unusual or difficult for a beginning woodworker in Scott's methods. What was it you saw that made you state it would be inappropriate for a beginner? -- -Mike- |
#34
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Pat Barber" wrote in message ... It was fairly clear that the post was concerning "how to build a exterior door", which is certainly not a trivial or reasonable thing to expect from what appears to be a complete novice. Why didn't you explain the typical cost involved in such a project ? (1) Finding clear and perfect kiln dried lumber (2) Tools and shop setup for door making (3) Special tools required for all door hardware. (4) Door hardware (5) Knowledge of how to hang the door in what is almost certainly not a perfect opening. (6) Proper finish (7) door making skill set The tool set required for the lockset and hinges is several hundred dollars. Exactly what would he be saving ? There is any number of companies that make the "correct" door for any age house Sorry Pat I sounded rude. I wasn't thinking about cost or skill, only the resposibility of owning a historic building, and not putting off-the-shelf modern joinery in an old house. Tim w |
#35
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"Tim W" writes:
"Pat Barber" wrote in message ... It was fairly clear that the post was concerning "how to build a exterior door", which is certainly not a trivial or reasonable thing to expect from what appears to be a complete novice. Why didn't you explain the typical cost involved in such a project ? (1) Finding clear and perfect kiln dried lumber (2) Tools and shop setup for door making (3) Special tools required for all door hardware. (4) Door hardware (5) Knowledge of how to hang the door in what is almost certainly not a perfect opening. (6) Proper finish (7) door making skill set The tool set required for the lockset and hinges is several hundred dollars. Exactly what would he be saving ? There is any number of companies that make the "correct" door for any age house Sorry Pat I sounded rude. I wasn't thinking about cost or skill, only the resposibility of owning a historic building, and not putting off-the-shelf modern joinery in an old house. Tim w Of course, just because a house is old, doesn't make it historic. Many homes from that time period (1860's) were log cabins with rather crude doors. scott |
#36
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() "Scott Lurndal" wrote in message om... "Tim W" writes: ..... I wasn't thinking about cost or skill, only the resposibility of owning a historic building, and not putting off-the-shelf modern joinery in an old house. Of course, just because a house is old, doesn't make it historic. Many homes from that time period (1860's) were log cabins with rather crude doors. Actually I think you are wrong. Cottages, hovels, log cabins, barns and mud huts are as important as rich peoples houses, and much more vulnerable. Tim w |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
What kind of wood for exterior door? | Woodworking | |||
Wood Filler For Exterior Wood Patching ? | Home Repair | |||
exterior wood door stain | Woodworking | |||
Staining exterior wood door question | Woodworking | |||
Exterior Wood Door | Home Repair |