Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks

On Jun 27, 3:29 pm, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks

Sounds like you're looking for the same characteristics a bowyer would
look for. If I remember correctly, yew was popular. Ash comes to mind
but I'm not certain if I remember that being bow wood. What else did
they make bows out of back then, or even, for a lot of artisans, these
days?

You'd also want to look for something as straight-grained as possible,
with the grain running along the stick.

On Jun 27, 1:44 pm, " wrote:
On Jun 27, 3:29 pm, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:

Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks

Sounds like you're looking for the same characteristics a bowyer would
look for. If I remember correctly, yew was popular. Ash comes to mind
but I'm not certain if I remember that being bow wood. What else did
they make bows out of back then, or even, for a lot of artisans, these
days?

You'd also want to look for something as straight-grained as possible,
with the grain running along the stick.




Hickory might be good, too.

Not sure what you can find in the UK but:

Hickory - you ain't gonna break it soon
Ash - it'll bend a bunch before it snaps
Bois d'Arc - used by Amerindians to make bows, but unlikely you'll
find it in the UK. I'd send you some (have acres of it in Texas, USA),
but shipping would kill you
Yew - if yew can find it

Regards.

Tom


On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 20:29:11 GMT, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 27, 3:29 pm, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet
Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a
bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in
half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k.
Thanks

Sounds like you're looking for the same characteristics a bowyer would
look for. If I remember correctly, yew was popular. Ash comes to mind
but I'm not certain if I remember that being bow wood. What else did
they make bows out of back then, or even, for a lot of artisans, these
days?

You'd also want to look for something as straight-grained as possible,
with the grain running along the stick.

They used ash too. Any long-grain wood, rived, not sawed to get the
greatest strength, will do the job. Use
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fp.../fplgtr113.htm and the
strength figures in chapter four if you like numbers.

In article , vacuous632
@voidacious.net says...
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks


What the others said ... seeing you are in London I'd also recommend oak and
beech - both very strong.

-P.

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 20:29:11 GMT, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:

Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure, sideways.

Beech is the ideal wood here. Easy to get, easy to put a good smooth
surface onto it, and if you do break it, it doesn't produce particularly
nasty splinters. I'd also use lime (light) or hornbeam (heavy) if I
cared about the weight. It's also pretty easy to get in the UK - you
might even find it as round dowel.

In article , "torge conrad maguar" wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks


standpoint: it takes a considerable force to break a piece of wood 15mm thick,
and you're just not going to get very much leverage if it's only 150mm long.
(I suspect that the folks who have been advising you to search out strong
woods such as hickory or bois d'arc -- native to the US -- have neglected to
do the conversion from metric: Imperial equivalent is a bit under 5/8"
diameter x 6" long; you'll not snap even white pine that size with your hands,
unless you're foolish enough to mill it across the grain instead of along it.)

Your primary consideration should be the type of grain. To avoid leaving
splinters in bare feet, or snagging hosiery, you'll want something with a
close, tight grain. Maple of any species would be perfect, including what you
folks in the UK know as sycamore. (In the US, we call that the planetree
maple, or the London planetree; what we call sycamore is something entirely
different.) Any fruitwood also would do well; you may find cherry, apple, or
pear available. Yew and holly are possibilities as well, but be advised that
if you're turning this on a lathe, your tools had better be *damned* sharp,
especially for holly.

I'd stay away from coarser woods such as oak or ash -- lady clients won't
appreciate snags and runs in their stockings.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article . com, wrote:
On Jun 27, 1:44 pm, " wrote:
On Jun 27, 3:29 pm, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:

Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks

Sounds like you're looking for the same characteristics a bowyer would
look for.

Note that the length is 150 millimeters. Not centimeters.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , Andy Dingley wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jun 2007 20:29:11 GMT, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:

Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure, sideways.

Coupla questions for you, Andy:

Beech is the ideal wood here. Easy to get, easy to put a good smooth
surface onto it, and if you do break it, it doesn't produce particularly
nasty splinters.

I hesitated to recommend beech in my response to the OP because I'm familiar
only with the American species, and wasn't sure how much difference there
might be to the European beech. For comparison, our beech has a somewhat
coarser grain than maple or cherry, but much finer than oak or ash. Hardness
is somewhat less than that of sugar or black maple, but considerably greater
than any other maple. Sounds like yours is fairly similar?

I'd also use lime (light)

What genus/species of tree is "lime" in the UK? Here in the US, we know
"lime" only as the citrus fruit with which I'm sure you're familiar, and the
wood is of little commercial value. Your climate won't support growing citrus,
so it must be something else. I wonder what we know it as here.

or hornbeam (heavy)

Same question: what genus/species? The hornbeams we have here are
approximately the same hardness as granite. OK, perhaps I exaggerate, but our
most common hornbeam has a more common name, too: ironwood. I've cut some as
firewood, and it takes the edge off a chainsaw in a big hurry. American
hornbeam isn't something I'd recommend to a novice woodworker. I suppose yours
isn't quite the same, though?


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On 28 Jun, 01:33, (Doug Miller) wrote:

Beech is the ideal wood here. Easy to get, easy to put a good smooth
surface onto it, and if you do break it, it doesn't produce particularly
nasty splinters.

I hesitated to recommend beech in my response to the OP because I'm familiar
only with the American species, and wasn't sure how much difference there
might be to the European beech.

OP's in the UK.

Europe's ash, beech and arguably walnut are better than their US
equivalents. OTOH our maples and cherry are scarce, pines are poor and
we've no hickory, bois d'arc or red oak.

For comparison, our beech has a somewhat
coarser grain than maple or cherry, but much finer than oak or ash. Hardness
is somewhat less than that of sugar or black maple, but considerably greater
than any other maple. Sounds like yours is fairly similar?

Our beech might be softer than any of the maples, but maybe you've got
extra-soft maples I'm unfamiliar with. Although the grain is certainly
coarser than maple, it's acceptably fine for this purpose.

I might use ash myself, especially for turned work, but I'd pick the
right log to make it out of. Most of the ash I have is "structural
grade" (i.e. fast grown, with wide rings) and I've always plenty of
slow grown stuff that's only fit for decorative work. So long as the
ring-porous bit isn't too porous, it finishes wel enough for this.

Beech's greatest advantage is that the UK timber trade is poorly
organised and it's hard to buy quality hardwoods unless you're either
bulk, or you know where to go. Beech is one of the very few timbers
that you can find easily in a useful grade of quality.


I'd also use lime (light)

What genus/species of tree is "lime" in the UK?

Tilia, aka linden or basswood. Not _quite_ the same species as US
bassswood, but near enough.


Your climate won't support growing citrus,

Actually it will, if you want a decorative lime or orange tree in a
tub on the patio. You'll see cute little fruit too, but they won't be
big enough to be edible or to fell for timber.

or hornbeam (heavy)

Same question: what genus/species?

No idea. I always think of this as a central European timber and I
rarely see it growing locally. However a friend's garden had half-a-
dozen of the things in it until recently, and I've been doing a lot of
turning with the logs. Lovely stuff to turn - it's not easy going, but
you get a lovely surface for almost no effort. Nice spalting too.

The hornbeams we have here are approximately the same hardness as granite.

Ours aren't that hard or dense. Getting that way, but not enough to
make it hard to work. It's not abrasive either - you need sharp
tools, but it doesn't blunt them excessively.


I might use sycamore, plane or maple for this job if I had a piece
sitting around and that individual log was up to the task (there's
always plenty of short plane logs around from suburban roadside tree-
surgery). I'd want to look at individual boards though -- our maples
are awfully variable in quality.

On 28 Jun, 01:19, (Doug Miller) wrote:

you'll not snap even white pine that size with your hands,
unless you're foolish enough to mill it across the grain instead of along it.)

I was _so_ unimpressed when I discovered how they make practice boards
for karate...

On Jun 27, 4:29 pm, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks

The other posters have addressed the practicalities of wood species,
while essentially overlooking the application - reflexology.
Reflexology is a New Age sport with links to age old Eastern sports.
Please note that sport means anything I want it to mean in this
instance.

Since it's New Agey, I think bamboo would be a good choice. Readily
available, smooth, cheap, strong, cheap, round and cheap. It is also
cheap.

When you say shaped end, I am not sure if you mean shaped into a
smooth rounded end, or shaped to look like a duck or other animal.
Following the New Agey theme, inserting a healing crystal - you know,
a rock - into each end and affixing it with epoxy would be nifty. I
suggest you select a suitable euphemism for epoxy to assist in selling
the wholesomeness of the instrument.

Use a chisel tip permanent marker to inscribe symbols that look
vaguely Eastern in origin. Don't worry about the meaning - make one
up. I would pay more attention to the box you present it in, rather
than the stick itself. In fact, if the bamboo was worn and a bit
grimy they'd probably appreciate it more. Use words like patina and
provenance. Speak in hushed tones and make sure to charge at least
ten times what you think it's worth.

R

torge conrad maguar wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet
Reflexology treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen
(about 15mm dia and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be
put under quite a bit of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in
half and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k.
Thanks

My first choice would be fiberglass.

Next choice would be a pool cue.

"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 27, 4:29 pm, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet
Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a
bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in
half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k.
Thanks

The other posters have addressed the practicalities of wood species,
while essentially overlooking the application - reflexology.
Reflexology is a New Age sport with links to age old Eastern sports.
Please note that sport means anything I want it to mean in this
instance.

Since it's New Agey, I think bamboo would be a good choice. Readily
available, smooth, cheap, strong, cheap, round and cheap. It is also
cheap.

When you say shaped end, I am not sure if you mean shaped into a
smooth rounded end, or shaped to look like a duck or other animal.
Following the New Agey theme, inserting a healing crystal - you know,
a rock - into each end and affixing it with epoxy would be nifty. I
suggest you select a suitable euphemism for epoxy to assist in selling
the wholesomeness of the instrument.

Use a chisel tip permanent marker to inscribe symbols that look
vaguely Eastern in origin. Don't worry about the meaning - make one
up. I would pay more attention to the box you present it in, rather
than the stick itself. In fact, if the bamboo was worn and a bit
grimy they'd probably appreciate it more. Use words like patina and
provenance. Speak in hushed tones and make sure to charge at least
ten times what you think it's worth.
R

Thanks to all responses. In reply to this last rather cynical one, there is
documentary evidence
showing the existance of reflexology existing in Egypt two and half thousand
years ago. The person I'm making this stick for learnt it in the deep south
of Japan some fifty years ago where it was passed down through the
generations. There was no access to doctors so it must have had something
going for it to survive for so long, since the Japanese are nothing if not
practical. Although admittedly this original healing art bears little
relationship to what people learn in a few weeks these days in the local
college.

On Jun 28, 9:15 am, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Jun 27, 4:29 pm, "torge conrad maguar"
wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet
Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a
bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in
half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k.
Thanks

The other posters have addressed the practicalities of wood species,
while essentially overlooking the application - reflexology.
Reflexology is a New Age sport with links to age old Eastern sports.
Please note that sport means anything I want it to mean in this
instance.

Since it's New Agey, I think bamboo would be a good choice. Readily
available, smooth, cheap, strong, cheap, round and cheap. It is also
cheap.

When you say shaped end, I am not sure if you mean shaped into a
smooth rounded end, or shaped to look like a duck or other animal.
Following the New Agey theme, inserting a healing crystal - you know,
a rock - into each end and affixing it with epoxy would be nifty. I
suggest you select a suitable euphemism for epoxy to assist in selling
the wholesomeness of the instrument.

Use a chisel tip permanent marker to inscribe symbols that look
vaguely Eastern in origin. Don't worry about the meaning - make one
up. I would pay more attention to the box you present it in, rather
than the stick itself. In fact, if the bamboo was worn and a bit
grimy they'd probably appreciate it more. Use words like patina and
provenance. Speak in hushed tones and make sure to charge at least
ten times what you think it's worth.
R

Thanks to all responses. In reply to this last rather cynical one, there is
documentary evidence
showing the existance of reflexology existing in Egypt two and half thousand
years ago. The person I'm making this stick for learnt it in the deep south
of Japan some fifty years ago where it was passed down through the
generations. There was no access to doctors so it must have had something
going for it to survive for so long, since the Japanese are nothing if not
practical. Although admittedly this original healing art bears little
relationship to what people learn in a few weeks these days in the local
college.

Cynical? Nah. Simply an attempt at a humorous workup, and there's
certainly a lot of humor to be found in New Age mentality. Whether
you like the advice or not, it would be a totally appropriate
construction and simple to make. The other stuff is true - again,
whether you like it or not, that's simply human nature.

Here's the deal, you make two - my version and a simple wood one.
Present both to the recipient, if they don't prefer my version, I'll
buy it from you...assuming that you've made it to my standards and
you've ignored the part about charging at least ten times what it's
worth.

R

In article , "HeyBub" wrote:
torge conrad maguar wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet
Reflexology treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen
(about 15mm dia and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be
put under quite a bit of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in
half and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k.
Thanks

My first choice would be fiberglass.

Next choice would be a pool cue.

Note the length: 150mm. Not 150cm. (150mm = 6" approx)

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On 28 Jun, 13:25, RicodJour wrote:

Since it's New Agey, I think bamboo would be a good choice.

Bamboo is a terrible choice, because of the splinters.

I'm used to getting hit (martial arts) with either bokken (rigid,
usually red oak) and shinei (bamboo strips, somewhat flexible). A
bokken will easily break your arm if it accidentally contacts from a
hard blow, but a shinei is the one that's memorable for leaving
splinters behind, even in relatively gentle use (mostly they're used
for kendo, with armour).

Whatever you think of any therapy, if someone asks you to make a peice
of equipment for it, you should do your best as a woodworker, not
pretend to be Ben Goldacre.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. net...
In article , "torge conrad
maguar" wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks


standpoint: it takes a considerable force to break a piece of wood 15mm
thick,
and you're just not going to get very much leverage if it's only 150mm
long.
[...]

Your primary consideration should be the type of grain.[...]

This is the correct answer. The strength is not going to be an issue.

If it was me I would go to the log store and split a few dry logs into
sticks until I found a nice piece, needn't be totally straight, and whittle
and scrape until I was pleased.

Tim W

"Tim W" writes:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
.net...
In article , "torge conrad
maguar" wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks


standpoint: it takes a considerable force to break a piece of wood 15mm
thick,
and you're just not going to get very much leverage if it's only 150mm
long.
[...]

Your primary consideration should be the type of grain.[...]

This is the correct answer. The strength is not going to be an issue.

The primary consideration should be "Reflexology?" What a load of bunk.

scott

Doug Miller wrote:
My first choice would be fiberglass.

Next choice would be a pool cue.

Note the length: 150mm. Not 150cm. (150mm = 6" approx)

Oh. Right.

Please update my suggestion to:

Next choice would be a cut-down pool cue.

In article , wrote:
"Tim W" writes:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
y.net...
In article , "torge conrad
maguar" wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks


standpoint: it takes a considerable force to break a piece of wood 15mm
thick,
and you're just not going to get very much leverage if it's only 150mm
long.
[...]

Your primary consideration should be the type of grain.[...]

This is the correct answer. The strength is not going to be an issue.

The primary consideration should be "Reflexology?" What a load of bunk.

What happened to "the customer is always right"?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

(Doug Miller) writes:
In article , wrote:
"Tim W" writes:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
gy.net...
In article , "torge conrad
maguar" wrote:
Novice has been asked to make a wooden stick for using in feet Reflexology
treatment. Basically its like a very fat tube shaped pen (about 15mm dia
and 150mm long) with a shaped end. But it could be put under quite a bit
of pressure,
sideways.

So what would be a good wood to use, that is not so likely to snap in half
and would also be fairly readily available in north london u.k. Thanks


standpoint: it takes a considerable force to break a piece of wood 15mm
thick,
and you're just not going to get very much leverage if it's only 150mm
long.
[...]

Your primary consideration should be the type of grain.[...]

This is the correct answer. The strength is not going to be an issue.

The primary consideration should be "Reflexology?" What a load of bunk.

What happened to "the customer is always right"?


That particular saying has never been accurate. Some customers are just
wrong.

scott

In article , wrote:
(Doug Miller) writes:
In article ,
wrote:

The primary consideration should be "Reflexology?" What a load of bunk.

What happened to "the customer is always right"?

That particular saying has never been accurate. Some customers are just
wrong.

LOL - I understand. And I agree with you that reflexology is a load of bunk;
in fact, I think I'd put it a little more strongly than that. Just the same,
if somebody was willing to pay me to make such an instrument for him, I'd do
it without hesitation.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.