I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

This is more just hobby right now, but still want to do better than
what I've ended up with so far.

Thanks,
Scott

wrote:

| I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
| and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the
| boards, leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.
|
| I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so
| far. Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight
| enough. I plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing
| fancy, and probably most plywood or pine.
|
| Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

Perhaps a better blade on your table saw... and perhaps a length of
masking tape centered over the cut line might provide a bit of
additional smoothness.

I think I'd be inclined to cut the piece somewhere between 1/16" and
1/32" oversize and use a router/straightedge if I wanted a /really/
clean edge.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

wrote in message
oups.com...
Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

This is more just hobby right now, but still want to do better than
what I've ended up with so far.

No, just a plywood-suitable blade for the table saw. Assuming 10 inch,
80 tooth with a 30 degree alternate top bevel. Even that may not prevent
splintering of the veneer. Plywood veneers anymore are paper thin, no,
onion skin thin. Scribe your cut line with a utility knife before you run
it through the saw.

--
NuWave Dave in Houston

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

Probably worse.

This is more just hobby right now, but still want to do better than
what I've ended up with so far.

Normally on a table saw you cut plywood with the good side up, and with a
circular saw, with the good side down.

A sharp blade and one for cutting plywood is recommended, but if you only
have the one blade you can try the following:

With good side down and blade lowered, make shallow scoring cut through
veneer; raise blade, and with same edge against fence as scoring cut, flip
plywood to good side up and finish cut.

Try it on a scrap piece first.

YMMV ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/06/07

If the tablesaw is not smooth enough, you need a different blade. If the
circular saw is not strait enough, you need to use a saw guide.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

This is more just hobby right now, but still want to do better than
what I've ended up with so far.

Thanks,
Scott

wrote:
I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

This is more just hobby right now, but still want to do better than
what I've ended up with so far.

Carbide combination (Freud Diablo is cheap, decent quality),
zero clearance plate to prevent tearout.

"CW" wrote in message
hlink.net...
If the tablesaw is not smooth enough, you need a different blade. If the
circular saw is not strait enough, you need to use a saw guide.


It also helps to have a good support on both in-feed and out-feed if the
panels are large.

I think you'd get the results you are seeking with a Forrest Woodworker II
blade. It cuts smoother than a jointer can do.

Don Dando


wrote in message
oups.com...
I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

This is more just hobby right now, but still want to do better than
what I've ended up with so far.

Thanks,
Scott

In article .com,
wrote:
I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

This is more just hobby right now, but still want to do better than
what I've ended up with so far.

Thanks,
Scott


A quality blade in a well adjusted tablesaw is what the majority of
woodworkers use. What kind of saw & blade are you using? A straight
line can also be cut with the hand held sirculars saw if you use a
guide of some kind. Google for "saw sled" or "saw guide" and you
should find a few ideas.


--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland -

On 21 Jan 2007 12:18:39 -0800, "
wrote:

I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

Nope, nope and nope. Morris's suggestion of a router is a good one,
as is making scoring cuts prior to cutting. A zero-clerance insert
will also help with both the table and circular saw.

My saw will do it no problem, but when I had a little benchtop, my
technique was to cut about 1/16" to 1/8" oversized, then clamp a
drywall square to the sheet and use it as a router guide. You don't
necessarily need anything fancy bit-wise; if your router has a round
base, you can just set the straightedge so that the baseplate rides
against it. Take light cuts in passes of about 1/16" to reduce
chipping if that's a problem.

You can also try sticking a piece of tape to the underside of the
plywood where you'll be cutting when using the table saw. It doesn't
always work, but it can help with chipout with some plywood.

And of course, use a plywood blade.

On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 18:25:54 -0600, ()
wrote:

In article .com,
wrote:
I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

This is more just hobby right now, but still want to do better than
what I've ended up with so far.

Thanks,
Scott


A quality blade in a well adjusted tablesaw is what the majority of
woodworkers use. What kind of saw & blade are you using?

The table saw is a Delta shopmaster, nothing fancy. I bought it a few
years ago when building a shed, have used it since cutting up pine
boards with just the stock blade it came with.

Thanks all for the the suggestions. I picked up a Freud Diablo 80
tooth blade...ripped through the boards, very straight and smooth. I
didn't use tape, but will remember that tip for later.

I was trying to figure out a way to do it with the router, but
couldn't see how best to run the straight line. The idea of clamping a
straight edge of some sort to the the board and running down that
seems obvious now, may have just been one of those weeks.

What is the advantage of a zero clearance insert? One person mentioned
it helps prevent tearout. And you mention using it for table and
circular saw. I googled it some, did get some ideas, but didn't see
how it was used with circular saw.

On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 20:47:20 -0600, Prometheus
wrote:

On 21 Jan 2007 12:18:39 -0800, "
wrote:

I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

Nope, nope and nope. Morris's suggestion of a router is a good one,
as is making scoring cuts prior to cutting. A zero-clerance insert
will also help with both the table and circular saw.

My saw will do it no problem, but when I had a little benchtop, my
technique was to cut about 1/16" to 1/8" oversized, then clamp a
drywall square to the sheet and use it as a router guide. You don't
necessarily need anything fancy bit-wise; if your router has a round
base, you can just set the straightedge so that the baseplate rides
against it. Take light cuts in passes of about 1/16" to reduce
chipping if that's a problem.

You can also try sticking a piece of tape to the underside of the
plywood where you'll be cutting when using the table saw. It doesn't
always work, but it can help with chipout with some plywood.

And of course, use a plywood blade.

On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 23:47:40 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"CW" wrote in message
thlink.net...
If the tablesaw is not smooth enough, you need a different blade. If the
circular saw is not strait enough, you need to use a saw guide.


It also helps to have a good support on both in-feed and out-feed if the
panels are large.


This is the next step I need to tackle. Most the pieces are small
enough to handle, but a few are 5' long. Thought of running it onto a
saw horse, will look at it over next few days.

Scott wrote:
Thanks all for the the suggestions. I picked up a Freud Diablo 80
tooth blade...ripped through the boards, very straight and smooth. I
didn't use tape, but will remember that tip for later.

I was trying to figure out a way to do it with the router, but
couldn't see how best to run the straight line. The idea of clamping a
straight edge of some sort to the the board and running down that
seems obvious now, may have just been one of those weeks.

What is the advantage of a zero clearance insert? One person mentioned
it helps prevent tearout.

Supports the board up to the very edge of the kerf. Makes your saw
less likely to eat and jam itself with narrow cutoff scraps. Flatter
than the stock plate that came with your machine, which will now
cut square edges for the first time.

And you mention using it for table and
circular saw. I googled it some, did get some ideas, but didn't see
how it was used with circular saw.

Bolt a piece of 1/2" ply to the sole. Clamp everything to a bench,
with the blade overhanging the edge about 14". Raise the blade,
turn on the saw, and plunge the blade through.


On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 20:47:20 -0600, Prometheus
wrote:

On 21 Jan 2007 12:18:39 -0800, "
wrote:

I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

Nope, nope and nope. Morris's suggestion of a router is a good one,
as is making scoring cuts prior to cutting. A zero-clerance insert
will also help with both the table and circular saw.

My saw will do it no problem, but when I had a little benchtop, my
technique was to cut about 1/16" to 1/8" oversized, then clamp a
drywall square to the sheet and use it as a router guide. You don't
necessarily need anything fancy bit-wise; if your router has a round
base, you can just set the straightedge so that the baseplate rides
against it. Take light cuts in passes of about 1/16" to reduce
chipping if that's a problem.

You can also try sticking a piece of tape to the underside of the
plywood where you'll be cutting when using the table saw. It doesn't
always work, but it can help with chipout with some plywood.

And of course, use a plywood blade.

Scott wrote:


I was trying to figure out a way to do it with the router, but
couldn't see how best to run the straight line. The idea of clamping a
straight edge of some sort to the the board and running down that
seems obvious now, may have just been one of those weeks.

IMHO, best way to do the job if you must have a smooth edge.

Pick up a 2"x2"x1/8"x96" aluminum angle and a couple of 3" C-Clamps to
use as a straight edge.

Great straight edge for either a router or a circular saw.

Lew

"Swingman" wrote in
:

*snip*

Normally on a table saw you cut plywood with the good side up, and
with a circular saw, with the good side down.


*snip*

In other words, cut so the blade cuts in to the good side first.
(Sometimes I find rules of thumb stated more generally easier to
remember.)

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Scott wrote in
:

*snip*


The table saw is a Delta shopmaster, nothing fancy. I bought it a few
years ago when building a shed, have used it since cutting up pine
boards with just the stock blade it came with.

Probably time to get a sharp blade. You'll probably need to replace the
blade this time, but if you get a good quality one you can get it
sharpened.

I've had the TS I have now for about 2 years, and just made a few cuts
here and there and it's about time to change the blade. I really should
do that before I use it next.

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

Generally speaking, cross cuts are the worst on plywood.

Ripping can be solved with a decent, "high tooth" count
blade. You solved that.

Build yourself a couple of "guides" out of scraps.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2004/08/13/wb/

You need a "long" one for ripping up sheets of plywood
and a "short" one for doing cross cuts.

You can use the "exact" jig with a router for "trimming"
ends.

You will want to build a "basic" router table at some
point. This is a much easier way to control a router.

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip040700wb.html

I would also consider buying a basic "combo blade" like
a Freud LU84 which is excellent for every day cutting.




Scott wrote:

Thanks all for the the suggestions. I picked up a Freud Diablo 80
tooth blade...ripped through the boards, very straight and smooth. I
didn't use tape, but will remember that tip for later.

I was trying to figure out a way to do it with the router, but
couldn't see how best to run the straight line. The idea of clamping a
straight edge of some sort to the the board and running down that
seems obvious now, may have just been one of those weeks.

"Scott" wrote in message
...
Thanks all for the the suggestions. I picked up a Freud Diablo 80
tooth blade...ripped through the boards, very straight and smooth. I
didn't use tape, but will remember that tip for later.


Good choice. I have a couple of them and I've used them for ripping even
though it is not designed for that purpose.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
didn't use tape, but will remember that tip for later.

Good choice. I have a couple of them and I've used them for ripping even
though it is not designed for that purpose.

I was wondering, is there a decent type of tape to use for cutting?
Considering that the adhesives on tape have a good chance of collecting on
the saw blade, what kind of tape works well but minimizes the adhesive
sticking to the blade?

Is it necessary to remove gunk from the blade after every cut when using
tape?

Upscale wrote:
| I was wondering, is there a decent type of tape to use for cutting?
| Considering that the adhesives on tape have a good chance of
| collecting on the saw blade, what kind of tape works well but
| minimizes the adhesive sticking to the blade?

I've used drafting tape. The adhesive isn't agressive and it seems to
have just enough "hold" to keep the wood fibers at the cut line from
lifting.

Seems as if at one time drafting tape and masking tape were identical,
or nearly so; but the masking tape I looked at last trip to the lumber
yard now comes in all kinds of flavors...

| Is it necessary to remove gunk from the blade after every cut when
| using tape?

I didn't find it so; but it's probably a good idea to eyeball the
blade from time to time. I suspect that any residue from masking tape
will clean off fairly quickly with almost any petro-solvant.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Upscale wrote:
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
didn't use tape, but will remember that tip for later.
Good choice. I have a couple of them and I've used them for ripping even
though it is not designed for that purpose.

I was wondering, is there a decent type of tape to use for cutting?
Considering that the adhesives on tape have a good chance of collecting on
the saw blade, what kind of tape works well but minimizes the adhesive
sticking to the blade?

Is it necessary to remove gunk from the blade after every cut when using
tape?



Regular masking 3/4" wide tape has always worked
fine for me, but you might want to try some of the
blue painter's tape which is not as aggressive as
regular masking tape. You want to put the tape on
so that the saw cuts down the middle and force the
tape against the wood with heavy finger pressure.

Never had any tape adhesive get on my saw blades,
but you want to keep a watch that any tape doesn't
tear off and ball up raising the wood a tiny bit.
Not a problem if you use heavy pressure when
applying and smoothing the tape.

"George E. Cawthon"
fine for me, but you might want to try some of the
blue painter's tape which is not as aggressive as
regular masking tape.

I've been meaning to try out that blue tape. Last time I painted my
apartment and used masking tape on a few areas, when I pulled it off it took
some of the original paint with it. I was so disgusted at seeing the pits in
my apartment wall quit painting immediately and left it that way for several
years before I got to plastering it and then painting it again. I should
have know better, like what apartment super is going to use premium quality
paint that doesn't flake off at the slightest irritation?

In article .com,
says...


I am building a desk from plywood, 1/2" and 3/4". I used a table saw
and circular saw to rough cut after I marked the layouts on the boards,
leaving about a 1/4" extra on each side.

I'm trying to get smooth straight edges, but have been failing so far.
Table saw seems not smooth enough. Circular saw not straight enough. I
plan on working on more furniture in the future, nothing fancy, and
probably most plywood or pine.

Would a band saw be a better option? Jigsaw, scroll saw...?

This is more just hobby right now, but still want to do better than
what I've ended up with so far.


although i had cut quite a few sheets of ply on my unisaw, for which i built a
large (mobile) infeed table, i learned that that is not ideal. the prblem
isn't man-handling the material, it's the difficulty of keeping the wood
against the fence, particularly when ripping.

i tried clamping a straight-edge on the infeed table but that proved to be
inadequate. so, while a it on the expensive side, i purchased a festool
plungesaw and fence system. the quality of the cut is impeccable and i no
longer have to hope to deal with less-than adequate results of the unisaw.

--
regards,
greg (non-hyphenated american)
http://users.adelphia.net/~kimnach