I have just made four jewlery boxes with 3/4 splated maple set in a
walnut frame for a top. I learned that sanding the wood does not work
because of the black lines getting spread around. Using a cabinet
scrapper I got the surface cleaned up. There seems to still have some
wax sealer impregnated into the wood but mostly gone. I was going to
finish one with clear shellac, 1 boiled linseed oil, 1 waterlox, 1
minwax tung or 1812 the canadian tung. Any suggestions with finishing
Spalted maple is appreciated. I do have varnish and poly in the shop. I
hope that these finishes wont yellow the white background. What would
make the colored lines pop the most as well as seal from future rotting.

"henry" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have just made four jewlery boxes with 3/4 splated maple set in a
walnut frame for a top. I learned that sanding the wood does not work
because of the black lines getting spread around. Using a cabinet
scrapper I got the surface cleaned up. There seems to still have some
wax sealer impregnated into the wood but mostly gone. I was going to
finish one with clear shellac, 1 boiled linseed oil, 1 waterlox, 1
minwax tung or 1812 the canadian tung. Any suggestions with finishing
Spalted maple is appreciated. I do have varnish and poly in the shop. I
hope that these finishes wont yellow the white background. What would
make the colored lines pop the most as well as seal from future rotting.

I am not sure what shellac will do, but the normal finish to use when you
don't want to yellow the background is water based poly.

The one time I did spalted maple I used BLO and love the results; of course,
I used it as a lid for a walnut box, you may have a different need.
Had no trouble at all sanding; in fact it came up almost polished.

"henry" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have just made four jewlery boxes with 3/4 splated maple set in a
walnut frame for a top. I learned that sanding the wood does not work
because of the black lines getting spread around. Using a cabinet
scrapper I got the surface cleaned up. There seems to still have some
wax sealer impregnated into the wood but mostly gone. I was going to
finish one with clear shellac, 1 boiled linseed oil, 1 waterlox, 1
minwax tung or 1812 the canadian tung. Any suggestions with finishing
Spalted maple is appreciated. I do have varnish and poly in the shop. I
hope that these finishes wont yellow the white background. What would
make the colored lines pop the most as well as seal from future rotting.

Seal the splading with Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) Not the super market
verity but the specialty stuff at stores like Rockler.

Dave

While waterbase is definitely the best choice for non-yellowing color,
it's probably one of the worst for the other requirements you list. It
will definitely NOT make the grain pop. In fact, it's the most opaque
of the finishes you mentioned. It's also not very good at resisting
water vapor. Like latex paint, waterbase "breathes" quite readily.
It's probably not that much of an issue for jewelry boxes, but
something to consider nevertheless. BLO or "tung" oil (I put in quotes
because it's almost never truly tung oil despite the name) can really
make the grain pop, but offers essentially no protection whatsoever
from water vapor exchange. Again, probably not a big deal for a
jewelry box. Bleached shellac is by far the most resistant to water
vapor exchange (despite its very poor resistance to water in liquid
form) and looks really good.

Personally, I'd go with BLO or either of the tung oil finishes you
mention because they're easy, look great, and should be perfectly
adequate protection for a jewelry box. For what it's worth BLO (or raw
linseed oil for that matter) will darken the color more than other oil
or oil/varnish finishes.

Josh


Toller wrote:
"henry" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have just made four jewlery boxes with 3/4 splated maple set in a
walnut frame for a top. I learned that sanding the wood does not work
because of the black lines getting spread around. Using a cabinet
scrapper I got the surface cleaned up. There seems to still have some
wax sealer impregnated into the wood but mostly gone. I was going to
finish one with clear shellac, 1 boiled linseed oil, 1 waterlox, 1
minwax tung or 1812 the canadian tung. Any suggestions with finishing
Spalted maple is appreciated. I do have varnish and poly in the shop. I
hope that these finishes wont yellow the white background. What would
make the colored lines pop the most as well as seal from future rotting.

I am not sure what shellac will do, but the normal finish to use when you
don't want to yellow the background is water based poly.

The one time I did spalted maple I used BLO and love the results; of course,
I used it as a lid for a walnut box, you may have a different need.
Had no trouble at all sanding; in fact it came up almost polished.

"Josh" wrote in message
oups.com...
BLO or "tung" oil (I put in quotes
because it's almost never truly tung oil despite the name) can really
make the grain pop, but offers essentially no protection whatsoever
from water vapor exchange. Again, probably not a big deal for a
jewelry box. Bleached shellac is by far the most resistant to water
vapor exchange (despite its very poor resistance to water in liquid
form) and looks really good.


Yeah, sure. Bet you can't find where that crock about Tung originated.
Have your state AG go after them for false advertising if you believe it.

Shellac is a poor finish for a jewelry box, given its reaction to alcohol
which may fall on it from spraying various colognes and things, not to
mention the fingerprint possibilities.

The smudge from sanding probably was the dust moving inside the wax -
crayon. Use a good air blast to clear the dust periodically or wipe with
solvent to help the dust along.

I'd go oil-based varnish over a shellac seal, attempting the best of both
worlds. Shellac to keep it from absorbing too much oil, and good alcohol
resistance in the varnish. But that's because I hate spraying lacquer,
which would be a great choice, except if she spilled nail polish remover on
it.

Good point about the shellac. I was trying to think of how a jewelry
box would ever be exposed to alcohol, and I missed the incredibly
obvious situation you pointed out - cologne, perfume, hairspray, etc.

As far as the tung oil comment goes, perhaps I should clarify: True
tung oil is a curing oil and can be and has been used for centuries as
a finish. With enough patience one can get decent looking results with
superior water-repellent properties to linseed oil. However, for the
average consumer/woodworker, achieving good results with tung oil would
seem painstaking to say the least. It takes several days to cure
between coats and it takes many, many coats before an even sheen begins
to appear. Apply too many coats, though, and the built-up film will be
soft and weak.

Off-the-shelf boiled linseed oil is usually just that - linseed oil
with metallic dryers to speed up curing (the ingredient which gives it
the "boiled" designation). This is truly a curing-oil finish and it
behaves and protects as such. Having a product labeled "tung oil" on
the shelf right next to the BLO imlies that it is a similar type of
finish, especially given that tung oil IS a curing oil. However, these
products are almost NEVER curing-oil finishes. They are oil/varnish
blends. Granted, the oil component is usually tung oil (or partially
tung oil), but the curing and film-building properties are a result of
the resin component. Typically the curing time for these finishes is
much shorter than for an oil (especially tung oil), and the resultant
film is much harder, more water resistant, and has a higher sheen (true
tung oil takes at least a half-dozen coats before any sheen is
developed at all).

Imagine my surprise if I went to the grocery store and bought a bag of
flour only to find when I got home that the bag contained a stack of
pancakes. Sure, the pancakes CONTAIN flour, but that's not going to
help me make bread.

By the way, this is straight off the Waterlox web site: "Waterlox's
exclusive process takes Tung Oil , Resin, Mineral Spirits and other
ingredients, to produce a complete wood finish that gives you the look
and feel of a naturally oiled wood, with the additional benefit of
forming a surface that is waterproof". Kudos to them for not referring
to their product as "tung oil".

Josh


George wrote:
"Josh" wrote in message
oups.com...
BLO or "tung" oil (I put in quotes
because it's almost never truly tung oil despite the name) can really
make the grain pop, but offers essentially no protection whatsoever
from water vapor exchange. Again, probably not a big deal for a
jewelry box. Bleached shellac is by far the most resistant to water
vapor exchange (despite its very poor resistance to water in liquid
form) and looks really good.


Yeah, sure. Bet you can't find where that crock about Tung originated.
Have your state AG go after them for false advertising if you believe it.

Shellac is a poor finish for a jewelry box, given its reaction to alcohol
which may fall on it from spraying various colognes and things, not to
mention the fingerprint possibilities.

The smudge from sanding probably was the dust moving inside the wax -
crayon. Use a good air blast to clear the dust periodically or wipe with
solvent to help the dust along.

I'd go oil-based varnish over a shellac seal, attempting the best of both
worlds. Shellac to keep it from absorbing too much oil, and good alcohol
resistance in the varnish. But that's because I hate spraying lacquer,
which would be a great choice, except if she spilled nail polish remover on
it.

Josh wrote:
While waterbase is definitely the best choice for non-yellowing color,
it's probably one of the worst for the other requirements you list. It
will definitely NOT make the grain pop. In fact, it's the most opaque
of the finishes you mentioned.

I think that depends on if you get high gloss, semi gloss or satin.
The lower the gloss the higher the particulate content which is
what makes it less glosy and more tanslucent (not really opaque.

... BLO or "tung" oil (I put in quotes
because it's almost never truly tung oil despite the name) can really
make the grain pop, but offers essentially no protection whatsoever
from water vapor exchange.

I challenge that remark. Bob Flexnor seems
to be responsible for priomoting that particular myth.Have
you checked the contents listed,
or the MSDS on anything labeled "Tung OIl"? I've never seen
anything labled "tung oil" that listed anything other than tung
oil in the ingredients. The same is not true for finishes that
are labeled "Tung Oil Finish" or "Tung Oil based Danish OIl"
But those are NOT labeled "Tung Oil" so complaining that
they aren't pure Tung Oil is like complaining that latex
paint isn't pure latex.

"Teak Oil" is usually thinned linseed oil. No 'teak' in it at all.

--

FF

"Josh" wrote in message
oups.com...
As far as the tung oil comment goes, perhaps I should clarify: True
tung oil is a curing oil and can be and has been used for centuries as
a finish. With enough patience one can get decent looking results with
superior water-repellent properties to linseed oil. However, for the
average consumer/woodworker, achieving good results with tung oil would
seem painstaking to say the least. It takes several days to cure
between coats and it takes many, many coats before an even sheen begins
to appear. Apply too many coats, though, and the built-up film will be
soft and weak.

You need to take a lesson in finishing from the lathe types. The oil
becomes almost incidental to the surface when the woods sanded, burnished
and buffed. Lovely stuff.

Would you be horrified to find that "baby oil" contains none? You can read,
look at the label. Resin for hardening, siccatives - not necessarily
metals, btw - to promote more rapid crosslinking.

wrote in message
oups.com...

Josh wrote:
While waterbase is definitely the best choice for non-yellowing color,
it's probably one of the worst for the other requirements you list. It
will definitely NOT make the grain pop. In fact, it's the most opaque
of the finishes you mentioned.

I think that depends on if you get high gloss, semi gloss or satin.
The lower the gloss the higher the particulate content which is
what makes it less glosy and more tanslucent (not really opaque.

... BLO or "tung" oil (I put in quotes
because it's almost never truly tung oil despite the name) can really
make the grain pop, but offers essentially no protection whatsoever
from water vapor exchange.

I challenge that remark. Bob Flexnor seems
to be responsible for priomoting that particular myth.Have
you checked the contents listed,
or the MSDS on anything labeled "Tung OIl"? I've never seen
anything labled "tung oil" that listed anything other than tung
oil in the ingredients. The same is not true for finishes that
are labeled "Tung Oil Finish" or "Tung Oil based Danish OIl"
But those are NOT labeled "Tung Oil" so complaining that
they aren't pure Tung Oil is like complaining that latex
paint isn't pure latex.

As I understand it, it all started with Formby Tung Oil Finish, which
contained no tung oil. The word "finish" makes it all descriptive rather
than accurate; it finishes in much the same way as tung oil, rather than it
contains tung oil.
If the bottle says "100% Tung Oil", it darn well better be.

Point taken. Likewise with FF's comment about "Tung Oil" vs. "Tung Oil
Finish". I still think it's a bit misleading, though. And unlike
something like Cheez-wiz, where you can read the label and clearly see
that it bears only a slight resemblance to cheese, it seems
particularly difficult to find information on the ingredients of
various finishes. It seems you need to infer a lot from the directions
for use.

Josh

George wrote:
"Josh" wrote in message
oups.com...
As far as the tung oil comment goes, perhaps I should clarify: True
tung oil is a curing oil and can be and has been used for centuries as
a finish. With enough patience one can get decent looking results with
superior water-repellent properties to linseed oil. However, for the
average consumer/woodworker, achieving good results with tung oil would
seem painstaking to say the least. It takes several days to cure
between coats and it takes many, many coats before an even sheen begins
to appear. Apply too many coats, though, and the built-up film will be
soft and weak.

You need to take a lesson in finishing from the lathe types. The oil
becomes almost incidental to the surface when the woods sanded, burnished
and buffed. Lovely stuff.

Would you be horrified to find that "baby oil" contains none? You can read,
look at the label. Resin for hardening, siccatives - not necessarily
metals, btw - to promote more rapid crosslinking.

Toller wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

Josh wrote:
While waterbase is definitely the best choice for non-yellowing color,
it's probably one of the worst for the other requirements you list. It
will definitely NOT make the grain pop. In fact, it's the most opaque
of the finishes you mentioned.

I think that depends on if you get high gloss, semi gloss or satin.
The lower the gloss the higher the particulate content which is
what makes it less glosy and more tanslucent (not really opaque.

... BLO or "tung" oil (I put in quotes
because it's almost never truly tung oil despite the name) can really
make the grain pop, but offers essentially no protection whatsoever
from water vapor exchange.

I challenge that remark. Bob Flexnor seems
to be responsible for priomoting that particular myth.Have
you checked the contents listed,
or the MSDS on anything labeled "Tung OIl"? I've never seen
anything labled "tung oil" that listed anything other than tung
oil in the ingredients. The same is not true for finishes that
are labeled "Tung Oil Finish" or "Tung Oil based Danish OIl"
But those are NOT labeled "Tung Oil" so complaining that
they aren't pure Tung Oil is like complaining that latex
paint isn't pure latex.

As I understand it, it all started with Formby Tung Oil Finish, which
contained no tung oil. The word "finish" makes it all descriptive rather
than accurate; it finishes in much the same way as tung oil, rather than it
contains tung oil.

I'll recheck my bottle but ISTR that it says on the label that it
contains tung oil, other oils, and resins. Basicly it's a wiping
varnish.

--

FF

Josh wrote:
Good point about the shellac. I was trying to think of how a jewelry
box would ever be exposed to alcohol, and I missed the incredibly
obvious situation you pointed out - cologne, perfume, hairspray, etc.

As far as the tung oil comment goes, perhaps I should clarify: True
tung oil is a curing oil and can be and has been used for centuries as
a finish. With enough patience one can get decent looking results with
superior water-repellent properties to linseed oil. However, for the
average consumer/woodworker, achieving good results with tung oil would
seem painstaking to say the least. It takes several days to cure
between coats and it takes many, many coats before an even sheen begins
to appear. Apply too many coats, though, and the built-up film will be
soft and weak.

Off-the-shelf boiled linseed oil is usually just that - linseed oil
with metallic dryers to speed up curing (the ingredient which gives it
the "boiled" designation). This is truly a curing-oil finish and it
behaves and protects as such. Having a product labeled "tung oil" on
the shelf right next to the BLO imlies that it is a similar type of
finish, especially given that tung oil IS a curing oil. However, these
products are almost NEVER curing-oil finishes. They are oil/varnish
blends.

What do they say on the label, "Tung Oil" or "Tung Oil FInish"?

What does it say under "contents"?

How about some examples, by product name?

I usually see them on the shelf next to Danish oil, which typically
has no Danish in it. The BLO is more often found next to the
paint thinner, which, BTW, typically has no paint in it.

By the way, this is straight off the Waterlox web site: "Waterlox's
exclusive process takes Tung Oil , Resin, Mineral Spirits and other
ingredients, to produce a complete wood finish that gives you the look
and feel of a naturally oiled wood, with the additional benefit of
forming a surface that is waterproof". Kudos to them for not referring
to their product as "tung oil".


I'd expect a package labeled "Buckwheat Pancakes" to have pancakes
in it, made from Buckwheat, not pure Buckwheat.

I'd expect a bottle labeled "Tung Oil Finish" to contain a wood finish
made from Tung Oil, not pure Tung Oil.

--

FF

On 24 May 2006 16:02:12 -0700, "henry" wrote:

I have just made four jewlery boxes with 3/4 splated maple set in a
walnut frame for a top
Snip

What would
make the colored lines pop the most as well as seal from future rotting.

I used Waterlox on the box at

http://web2.airmail.net/xleanone/index.html/KJB%20Box/

While the Maple is Tiger, not Spalted, it worksnicely and seems to pop
the grain pretty well without darkening it as much as BLO does. I've
used on Spalted Maple with similar results - just don't have pics (or
the box!).

Regards.

Tom

wrote in message
oups.com...

Toller wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

Josh wrote:
While waterbase is definitely the best choice for non-yellowing color,
it's probably one of the worst for the other requirements you list.
It
will definitely NOT make the grain pop. In fact, it's the most opaque
of the finishes you mentioned.

I think that depends on if you get high gloss, semi gloss or satin.
The lower the gloss the higher the particulate content which is
what makes it less glosy and more tanslucent (not really opaque.

... BLO or "tung" oil (I put in quotes
because it's almost never truly tung oil despite the name) can really
make the grain pop, but offers essentially no protection whatsoever
from water vapor exchange.

I challenge that remark. Bob Flexnor seems
to be responsible for priomoting that particular myth.Have
you checked the contents listed,
or the MSDS on anything labeled "Tung OIl"? I've never seen
anything labled "tung oil" that listed anything other than tung
oil in the ingredients. The same is not true for finishes that
are labeled "Tung Oil Finish" or "Tung Oil based Danish OIl"
But those are NOT labeled "Tung Oil" so complaining that
they aren't pure Tung Oil is like complaining that latex
paint isn't pure latex.

As I understand it, it all started with Formby Tung Oil Finish, which
contained no tung oil. The word "finish" makes it all descriptive rather
than accurate; it finishes in much the same way as tung oil, rather than
it
contains tung oil.

I'll recheck my bottle but ISTR that it says on the label that it
contains tung oil, other oils, and resins. Basicly it's a wiping
varnish.

That could well be, 0.5% tung and 99.5% modified soy oil. Maybe they have
to put a bit in to avoid mislabeling.

I was going to
finish one with clear shellac, 1 boiled linseed oil, 1 waterlox, 1
minwax tung or 1812 the canadian tung. Any suggestions with finishing
Spalted maple is appreciated. I do have varnish and poly in the shop. I

hope that these finishes wont yellow the white background. What would
make the colored lines pop the most as well as seal from future
rotting.

__________________________________________________ ______

This is the most common finishing job in my shop- Shellac will yellow
it a bit (how much depends on the type) but it will make the grain
really pop. That's my personal favorite, but it really still looks
nice with spar varnish or poly as well. Biggest thing is getting it as
smooth as possible- you can polish maple until it looks like glass with
no finish at all, and the end result is really nice.

What NO BABIES we should get a class action suit going against
Johnson&johnson et al for false advertising. 8]] Larry
"George" George@least wrote in message
...

"Josh" wrote in message
oups.com...
As far as the tung oil comment goes, perhaps I should clarify: True
tung oil is a curing oil and can be and has been used for centuries as
a finish. With enough patience one can get decent looking results with
superior water-repellent properties to linseed oil. However, for the
average consumer/woodworker, achieving good results with tung oil would
seem painstaking to say the least. It takes several days to cure
between coats and it takes many, many coats before an even sheen begins
to appear. Apply too many coats, though, and the built-up film will be
soft and weak.

You need to take a lesson in finishing from the lathe types. The oil
becomes almost incidental to the surface when the woods sanded, burnished
and buffed. Lovely stuff.

Would you be horrified to find that "baby oil" contains none? You can
read, look at the label. Resin for hardening, siccatives - not
necessarily metals, btw - to promote more rapid crosslinking.

larry wrote:

What NO BABIES we should get a class action suit going against
Johnson&johnson et al for false advertising. 8]] Larry

When the Markting Folks get their hands on anything the truth
has a way of slipping away - rapidly. Then there's the Lost in
Translation thing. Take "Tao de Ching". In chinese is pronounced
dao de jing. It should be pronounced "dung oil" but I guess the
marketing boys thought no one would by it with tha name.

I've looked into several commonly availble finishes and my
extensive research clearly shows how misleading finish
naming can be.

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...finishing.html

Note that the method of applying a finish can be quite
tricky. Some require virgin sheep wool, not so easily found
these days. (is that a Sheep Joke? Baaaaaaa -d!)

charlie b

I just completed some bird's-eye and spalted maple boxes. What I tried
was a bee's wax finish. Mix was made from bee's wax (75%) carnuba
(24%) and petrolatum (1%) to thin it out a bit. Spread it out and
buffed it in with a coarse terry towel. Works best if wood is slightly
warm. I don't think this will yellow, is fairly water-proof, and since
it seals the surface, *should* stop further "rot".

Thanks to all contributors. Good info. Any pictures of small boxes with
spalted tops posted anywhere? My four are a copy of the front cover on
American Woodworker.