wrote in message
oups.com...

Josh wrote:
While waterbase is definitely the best choice for non-yellowing color,
it's probably one of the worst for the other requirements you list. It
will definitely NOT make the grain pop. In fact, it's the most opaque
of the finishes you mentioned.

I think that depends on if you get high gloss, semi gloss or satin.
The lower the gloss the higher the particulate content which is
what makes it less glosy and more tanslucent (not really opaque.

... BLO or "tung" oil (I put in quotes
because it's almost never truly tung oil despite the name) can really
make the grain pop, but offers essentially no protection whatsoever
from water vapor exchange.

I challenge that remark. Bob Flexnor seems
to be responsible for priomoting that particular myth.Have
you checked the contents listed,
or the MSDS on anything labeled "Tung OIl"? I've never seen
anything labled "tung oil" that listed anything other than tung
oil in the ingredients. The same is not true for finishes that
are labeled "Tung Oil Finish" or "Tung Oil based Danish OIl"
But those are NOT labeled "Tung Oil" so complaining that
they aren't pure Tung Oil is like complaining that latex
paint isn't pure latex.

As I understand it, it all started with Formby Tung Oil Finish, which
contained no tung oil. The word "finish" makes it all descriptive rather
than accurate; it finishes in much the same way as tung oil, rather than it
contains tung oil.
If the bottle says "100% Tung Oil", it darn well better be.