Good point about the shellac. I was trying to think of how a jewelry
box would ever be exposed to alcohol, and I missed the incredibly
obvious situation you pointed out - cologne, perfume, hairspray, etc.

As far as the tung oil comment goes, perhaps I should clarify: True
tung oil is a curing oil and can be and has been used for centuries as
a finish. With enough patience one can get decent looking results with
superior water-repellent properties to linseed oil. However, for the
average consumer/woodworker, achieving good results with tung oil would
seem painstaking to say the least. It takes several days to cure
between coats and it takes many, many coats before an even sheen begins
to appear. Apply too many coats, though, and the built-up film will be
soft and weak.

Off-the-shelf boiled linseed oil is usually just that - linseed oil
with metallic dryers to speed up curing (the ingredient which gives it
the "boiled" designation). This is truly a curing-oil finish and it
behaves and protects as such. Having a product labeled "tung oil" on
the shelf right next to the BLO imlies that it is a similar type of
finish, especially given that tung oil IS a curing oil. However, these
products are almost NEVER curing-oil finishes. They are oil/varnish
blends. Granted, the oil component is usually tung oil (or partially
tung oil), but the curing and film-building properties are a result of
the resin component. Typically the curing time for these finishes is
much shorter than for an oil (especially tung oil), and the resultant
film is much harder, more water resistant, and has a higher sheen (true
tung oil takes at least a half-dozen coats before any sheen is
developed at all).

Imagine my surprise if I went to the grocery store and bought a bag of
flour only to find when I got home that the bag contained a stack of
pancakes. Sure, the pancakes CONTAIN flour, but that's not going to
help me make bread.

By the way, this is straight off the Waterlox web site: "Waterlox's
exclusive process takes Tung Oil , Resin, Mineral Spirits and other
ingredients, to produce a complete wood finish that gives you the look
and feel of a naturally oiled wood, with the additional benefit of
forming a surface that is waterproof". Kudos to them for not referring
to their product as "tung oil".

Josh


George wrote:
"Josh" wrote in message
oups.com...
BLO or "tung" oil (I put in quotes
because it's almost never truly tung oil despite the name) can really
make the grain pop, but offers essentially no protection whatsoever
from water vapor exchange. Again, probably not a big deal for a
jewelry box. Bleached shellac is by far the most resistant to water
vapor exchange (despite its very poor resistance to water in liquid
form) and looks really good.


Yeah, sure. Bet you can't find where that crock about Tung originated.
Have your state AG go after them for false advertising if you believe it.

Shellac is a poor finish for a jewelry box, given its reaction to alcohol
which may fall on it from spraying various colognes and things, not to
mention the fingerprint possibilities.

The smudge from sanding probably was the dust moving inside the wax -
crayon. Use a good air blast to clear the dust periodically or wipe with
solvent to help the dust along.

I'd go oil-based varnish over a shellac seal, attempting the best of both
worlds. Shellac to keep it from absorbing too much oil, and good alcohol
resistance in the varnish. But that's because I hate spraying lacquer,
which would be a great choice, except if she spilled nail polish remover on
it.