Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
building a barn.

But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.

Thanks.

What do you think of Marples brand chisels?

I have a set of the marples blue handled chisels. I think they are
alright, though they come so far from flat that I wouldn't buy them
again. Even after a couple dozen times sharpening them I still don't
have a mirror lap on the back, I mean right next to the bevel is good,
but further up...

If I had to do it again, I would buy a cheapo set for crappy projects,
and slowly purchase really nice ones kinda as needed. In fact I might
start doing that, and make the Marples my crappy set.

Andrew

I have Marple chisels also. The face of the 1 1/2 " had a low spot so
deep that it took over 3 hours on a diamond stone to take out. But on
the other hand that was 3 hours spent learning how to sharpen on
relatively cheap chisels. In retrospect it was time well spent. Just
plan on purchasing/learning a good sharpening system.

Don

gregj wrote:
Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
building a barn.

But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.

Thanks.

Stanley everlast and OLD buck brothers, from before the
name was sold, have a good reputation.

--

FF

I just bought some of the Sorby Registered Chisels, very little effort
to get them sharp and they are better than anything I have used so far
in my opinion.
Mike Francis

gregj wrote:
Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
building a barn.

But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.

Thanks.

Veritas planes are not $300. I'd be shocked if you thought they were
anything less than "top of the line". The most expensive one is $250.
Mostly they are in the $150-$200 range.

Dave

gregj wrote:

What do you think of Marples brand chisels?

they suck. They won't hold an edge for 5 minutes. Literally. Sears
chisels are much better, believe it or not.

Dave

Thanks Dave. Guess i got a little carried away there but my point is
that I think the older Stanleys are a pretty good deal.

"gregj" wrote in news:1122580168.682216.209690
@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

What do you think of Marples brand chisels?



Think modern Stanley handplanes.

"gregj" wrote in news:1122579073.315409.40120
@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
building a barn.

But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.

Thanks.


Look for Stanley 720 or 750 chisels, and potentially turning your own
replacement handles.

Or get out the crowbar, and order a set of Lie Nielsen reproductions.

Patriarch

I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
take niks in the cutting edge.

I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
quality steel.

The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
plastic handles, super cheap).

I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops) that are a
better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some niks,
not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the Sandvik.

Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard work to
flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.

Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Thanks Dave. Guess i got a little carried away there but my point is
that I think the older Stanleys are a pretty good deal.


I agree, I have several old Stanley planes from eBay and one #8 from a local
junk shop, all excellent buys and quality. 'Cept I dislike the #6 type 8.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

I must be the only one who is getting good service out of my Marples
blue-handles. I got five of 'em for about $85.00. They don't keep an
edge forever, but it's a while between sharpenings. They take an edge
pretty easy.

Marples are, OK.

Not great. But OK.

Bill

AAvK wrote:
I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
take niks in the cutting edge.

I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
quality steel.

The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
plastic handles, super cheap).

I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops) that are a
better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some niks,
not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the Sandvik.

Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard work to
flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.

Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

gregj wrote:

Thanks Dave. Guess i got a little carried away there but my point is
that I think the older Stanleys are a pretty good deal.

I hear you. It's a pretty common refrain on line that if one can find
an older Stanley, they've got themselves a workable plane.

Dave

wrote:

I must be the only one who is getting good service out of my Marples
blue-handles. I got five of 'em for about $85.00. They don't keep an
edge forever, but it's a while between sharpenings. They take an edge
pretty easy.

Marples are, OK.

Not great. But OK.

Bill

AAvK wrote:

I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
take niks in the cutting edge.

I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
quality steel.

The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
plastic handles, super cheap).

I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops) that are a
better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some niks,
not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the Sandvik.

Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard work to
flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.

Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/


What year did you purchase them? vintage seems to be the key to the
level of quality.

Dave

David writes:

gregj wrote:

What do you think of Marples brand chisels?

they suck. They won't hold an edge for 5 minutes. Literally. Sears
chisels are much better, believe it or not.

Interestingly, Frank Klaus recommended these specifically (with the
caveat that they probably aren't for the /professional/ woodworker,
and more expensive chisels will hold an edge longer, but not
necessarily any better edge).

I haven't had any problem with mine holding an edge, but I didn't
[feel the need to] spend $300 on them, either.

--
Michael Campbell

Yep Dave, vintage is definately the answer with Marples. My best chisels
came from a junk shop, about $2 each. Gave them a new handle and, after
cleaning off the rust, I could clearly make out the trade mark (new chisels
don't have a maker's mark). They hold a fantastic edge and I would never
swap them for a new set.

Cheers
Bill D
"David" wrote in message
...
wrote:

I must be the only one who is getting good service out of my Marples
blue-handles. I got five of 'em for about $85.00. They don't keep an
edge forever, but it's a while between sharpenings. They take an edge
pretty easy.

Marples are, OK.

Not great. But OK.

Bill

AAvK wrote:

I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
take niks in the cutting edge.

I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
quality steel.

The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap
chrome
vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
plastic handles, super cheap).

I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops) that
are a
better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some niks,
not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the
Sandvik.

Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard work to
flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.

Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/


What year did you purchase them? vintage seems to be the key to the level
of quality.

Dave

On 28 Jul 2005 12:31:13 -0700, "gregj" wrote:

Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
building a barn.

I've got a set of Stanleys, and they serve me well- just keep a stone
handy for occasional touch-ups. If you get an initial hollow grind
going, a quick honing only takes a minute or so. They take a good
keen edge- something that is not always true of the HSS or other
specialty cutting tools. Those pricey ones are designed to keep the
edge you give them, but not necessarily to get the sharpest edge
possible. YMMV.

But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.

Thanks.

On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 14:16:19 -0700, "AAvK" wrote:


The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
plastic handles, super cheap).

Sandvik cabinet scrapers are a PITA to deal with, too. I bought one
and one those Veritas adjustible burnishers, and the plain-jane
scraper that came with the burnisher works a whole lot better. It's
just damn near impossible to roll a decent burr on the Sandvik.

Here's my experiences on the chisel thang:

Marples Blue-handle: I bought a set 1/4-1" around 2002, before they got
bought by Erwin. They're pretty good. They hold an edge reasonably
well, and sharpen easily. Most flattened pretty quick, though the 3/4"
took longer than the rest. The 1/8" is a bit flimsy though, and I've
had some problems with poor steel. I managed to break the tip off a
1/8" cutting a 3/8" mortise in cherry. I've also had some very jagged,
asymmetrical chips occur on some edges after hitting a hard knot.
Definitely a bad batch of steel.

Sorby: Octagonal handle, pattern makers, heavy duty mortise, etc.:
These are my favorites. They are pricey, but I've had great results
with them. They make one of the best 1/8" mortising chisels I've used.
Very well made and tough. They take longer to flatten and sharpen
than the Marples, but the results are worth it. Definitely take some
600 grit sandpaper to any edges that your hand will contact. I've
gotten some unexpected cuts just from the sharp sides during paring
operations.

Japanese "Blue steel": It may be an Iroiyo or an Mistu... Don't
remember. FWW had a review and this was rated the top. Mine's a 5/8"
Great chisel, and very hard. Back is relieved for ease of flattening.
Works well, but needs a steeper bezel than I'm used to, due to the
hardness of the steel. Also, the relieved back limits the usefulness of
the tool the way I use them.

Crown: I'm not a big fan of these. I own one. A 7/8" std chisel just
to round out my selection. I'd rather see them put more money into the
steel than the rosewood handles and polished blades. The polishing
tends to round over the edges of the blade, including the back,
requiring a non-trivial amount of grinding to get to flat metal. The
steel is OK, but my Marples are better.

Two cherries: I have one backbent gouge. Not on my top 10 list.
Everything but the bezel of the gouge was highly polished and seemed to
round over the edges too much. Handle is made of laquered hornbeam,
very hard and slippery. Bezel was rough ground. This is OK since I
regrind all of the tools once I buy them, especially carving tools.

Pfiel: So far, the best carving tools reasonably available in the US.
Just don't buy them from Woodshaft. There are some Canadian dealers
that sell for MUCH less, including shipping and insurance. I haven't
tried their bench chisels. My only complaint is that they tend to "buff
the cutting edge into submission." They call it a microbevel, but it is
more of a pain than a help. Once it gets dull, then major sharpening
needs to take place. Also, I've noticed that the buffer seems to
weaken/overheat the steel at the edge and cause it to fail faster. Once
I sharpen past the microbevel, the edge holding is great and has a great
edge.

Old tools/flea market/ebay, etc.: There can be some great finds.
Older, wooden handled Marples are great. Old Buck Brothers ones are
great as well, but have become a collector's item. What a waste. Sorby
and Swan are others that can be found as well. Usually cheap.

As for usage, keep them sharp. As soon as you start to notice that they
don't cut as cleanly, take a few passes on a strop charged with
compound. My favorite is a product called "yellowstone." Woodcraft may
still carry it. Awesome stuff. It is quicker to strop for 10 seconds
every 1/2 hour than to spend time on a set of stones. If you do need to
go to stones / sandpaper, etc., try the finest stone first to see if
that will restore the edge. The further down in grit you go, the more
grits you need to proceed through to get back to the strop, and that
razor edge.

For sizes: 1", 1/4", 1/2", then expand according to need. The 1" is
extremely versatile. I know professional custom/repro furniture makers
that use a 1" for everything from paring tenons to carving ball and claw
feet. I use some very small (1/32") for cleaning up the corners in
stringing grooves, and I have a 1-1/2" that I use for cutting inlay and
banding. For larger cutting operations, I use a blade from a plane. It
works well for cutting parts for compass-rose inlays.


-- Blue Enamel


David wrote:
wrote:

I must be the only one who is getting good service out of my Marples
blue-handles. I got five of 'em for about $85.00. They don't keep an
edge forever, but it's a while between sharpenings. They take an edge
pretty easy.

Marples are, OK.

Not great. But OK.

Bill

AAvK wrote:

I recommend Stubai. Read the review on the Diefenbacher website, as I
own a set I entirely agree with it. They hold the edge well, when I am
slamming (!) the blade into doug fir using a beech mallet, they do not
take niks in the cutting edge.

I have sharpened the Stubais side by side with a Bahco/Sandvik (lots on
eBay) on Norton yellow 220 A/O and the Stuabi leaves a light grey dust,
a fast and easy to attain edge that is glass_smooth_razor_sharp. Perfect
quality steel.

The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap
chrome
vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
plastic handles, super cheap).

I have new Buck bros. chisels (hickory handles with leather tops)
that are a
better steel that the Sandviks but they are RC 59 and did take some
niks,
not hard enough. When sharpening, they leave a non gummy color that is
merely darker than the Stubais, but a powder and not as dark as the
Sandvik.

Other folks in here recommend Two Cherries (a TON!), lots of hard
work to
flatten the backs from too much machine polishing.

Stuabi are cheaper and just as worth it: http://www.diefenbacher.com/
made Austria, very flat backs. Don't let the low price fool you.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/



What year did you purchase them? vintage seems to be the key to the
level of quality.

Dave

"David" wrote in message
...
gregj wrote:

Thanks Dave. Guess i got a little carried away there but my point is
that I think the older Stanleys are a pretty good deal.

I hear you. It's a pretty common refrain on line that if one can find
an older Stanley, they've got themselves a workable plane.

Goodie, goodie; I found a Stanley No. 4 some months back in the
garage of my wife's elderly cousin who had passed away. I have (this
very day) begun trying to tune it up using my new DMT DuoSharp.
The Craftsman "Jack Plane" I bought 30 years ago (when I knew even
less than I now know), and used practically nil, is a virtual copy of
it. I 'spose I should try to tune that one, too.

--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston

Goodie, goodie; I found a Stanley No. 4 some months back in the
garage of my wife's elderly cousin who had passed away. I have (this very day) begun trying to tune it up using my new DMT
DuoSharp.
The Craftsman "Jack Plane" I bought 30 years ago (when I knew even less than I now know), and used practically nil, is a
virtual copy of it. I 'spose I should try to tune that one, too.

--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston

Definitely a good find, congrats, but I wouldn't waste that dmt stone on it.
You should get to a junk shop and buy a rectangle or shelf of thick glass
and get some Norton AO papers of 100 and 220 grit and a can of 3m super
77. This also leads to the scary sharp method.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

When _did_ BB go downhill? After 1972 or after 1913/1915? It'll be easier
to find some chisels in reasonably good shape if the later year is the
time you're referring to.

--
You can buy new_old_stock Buck Bros. chisels that were made in the 60's from
Craftsman's studio, San Diego.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Prometheus wrote in
:

On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 14:16:19 -0700, "AAvK" wrote:


The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap
chrome vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I
have (blue plastic handles, super cheap).

Sandvik cabinet scrapers are a PITA to deal with, too. I bought one
and one those Veritas adjustible burnishers, and the plain-jane
scraper that came with the burnisher works a whole lot better. It's
just damn near impossible to roll a decent burr on the Sandvik.


Given that LN scrapers are like $7 each, I've sort of let the Sandviks
slide to the back of the pack...

Patriarch

"gregj" writes:

Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or

I highly recomend chinese HSS chisels. They are very easy to sharpen
and hold their edge extremely well.
Look he
http://www.dick.biz/cgi-bin/dick.sto...ct/View/700980

Unfortunately you only get sizes larger than 1/2"

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:IijGe.69506$ro.59875@fed1read02...
Definitely a good find, congrats, but I wouldn't waste that dmt stone
on it.
You should get to a junk shop and buy a rectangle or shelf of thick
glass
and get some Norton AO papers of 100 and 220 grit and a can of 3m
super
77. This also leads to the scary sharp method.

Can do that as well; I already gots the glass and paper.
Thanks for the $.02.
--
"New Wave" Dave In Houston

Prometheus wrote:
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 14:16:19 -0700, "AAvK" wrote:



The Sandvik (Sweden) leaves it very dark and "gummy" (so to speak) and
a harder to attain, not_as_good edge. These equalize with the cheap chrome
vanadium chisels from woodworker's supply, a set of which I have (blue
plastic handles, super cheap).


Sandvik cabinet scrapers are a PITA to deal with, too. I bought one
and one those Veritas adjustible burnishers, and the plain-jane
scraper that came with the burnisher works a whole lot better. It's
just damn near impossible to roll a decent burr on the Sandvik.

I cut my own from an old saw blade, many years ago. I was a pretty good
quality blade, plenty of flex etc but had seen a very hard life. Was
rusted, had bugger all teeth and was pretty worn. Anyhow, cut 4 cabinet
scrapers from it, gave to to the Old Man and still have 2. They are easy
to edge and retain the edge for quite a while.
Regards
John

"Blue Enamel" wrote in message
Here's my experiences on the chisel thang:

Good post ... good info. Thanks for taking the time!

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/23/05

AAvK wrote:

I agree, I have several old Stanley planes from eBay and one #8 from a local
junk shop, all excellent buys and quality. 'Cept I dislike the #6 type 8.

What specifically don't you like about it? My type 17 #6 is my
favorite Stanley.


Chuck Vance (who has a "few" old Stanleys)

On 28 Jul 2005 12:31:13 -0700, the opaque "gregj"
clearly wrote:

Thinking of buying a new set of chisels. Any words of wisdom about
brands, ebay etc.? These are for general woodworking, not carving or
building a barn.

I bought the 5-pc Marples Blue Chips and like them a lot. They're not
too brittle, take a good edge, and sharpen easily enough on my diamond
plate. For carving, my favorite brand is Pfeil (aka Swiss Made.)


But speaking of ebay, I am totally converted to buying older Stanley
planes on ebay. The ones I have so far have needed less work to get
into good shape than the junk I have purchase retail, not being able to
spend $300 on a top of the line new plane.

Yeah, half the time they've already been tuned for you and a bit of
cleanup and sharpening is all that's needed. GREAT value!


--

"See, in my line of work you got to keep repeating things
over and over and over again for the truth to sink in,
to kind of catapult the propaganda."

G.W. Bush
Greece, N.Y., May 24, 2005

On 28 Jul 2005 13:15:54 -0700, the opaque "rickluce"
clearly wrote:

I have Marple chisels also. The face of the 1 1/2 " had a low spot so
deep that it took over 3 hours on a diamond stone to take out. But on

You should have dropped by HF and gotten a $10 set of their really
coarse diamond plates for that task, Rick. Save the DMT 600 grit for
the finishing, then 1000/1200 WOD paper, and finalize with a strop.


the other hand that was 3 hours spent learning how to sharpen on
relatively cheap chisels. In retrospect it was time well spent. Just
plan on purchasing/learning a good sharpening system.

Right, any time spent learning to hone your skills (groan) is time
well spent.


--

"See, in my line of work you got to keep repeating things
over and over and over again for the truth to sink in,
to kind of catapult the propaganda."

G.W. Bush
Greece, N.Y., May 24, 2005

Michael Campbell wrote:

David writes:


gregj wrote:


What do you think of Marples brand chisels?


they suck. They won't hold an edge for 5 minutes. Literally. Sears
chisels are much better, believe it or not.


Interestingly, Frank Klaus recommended these specifically (with the
caveat that they probably aren't for the /professional/ woodworker,
and more expensive chisels will hold an edge longer, but not
necessarily any better edge).

I haven't had any problem with mine holding an edge, but I didn't
[feel the need to] spend $300 on them, either.

--
Michael Campbell
when did you purchase them?

Australopithecus scobis wrote:
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 13:35:08 -0700, fredfighter wrote:

OLD buck brothers, from before the
name was sold,

When _did_ BB go downhill? After 1972 or after 1913/1915? It'll be easier
to find some chisels in reasonably good shape if the later year is the
time you're referring to.

Unfortunatley I don't know. The galoots over on the OldTools
list are always gloating about finding Stanley everlast and Buck
Brothers. Hence my comment about reputation. Certainly the new
Bucks are nothing to brag about.

My guess is, a Buck that's old enough to have it's wooden handle
missing is a good bet.

--

FF

You can find exceptional antique chisels for reasonable prices at
http://www.theoldtoolshop.fsnet.co.uk/
They sell handmade and machine made chisels, carving tools, and other
old tools.
Jim

David writes:

Michael Campbell wrote:

David writes:

gregj wrote:


What do you think of Marples brand chisels?


they suck. They won't hold an edge for 5 minutes. Literally. Sears
chisels are much better, believe it or not.

Interestingly, Frank Klaus recommended these specifically (with the
caveat that they probably aren't for the /professional/ woodworker,
and more expensive chisels will hold an edge longer, but not
necessarily any better edge).
I haven't had any problem with mine holding an edge, but I didn't
[feel the need to] spend $300 on them, either.
--
Michael Campbell

when did you purchase them?

Few years ago. Not sure how that's relevant, however.

Yes, I sharpen them when I need to, but that's well over 5 minutes.
It's not even measured in minutes.

I'm a hobbyist though.

--
Michael Campbell

What specifically don't you like about it? My type 17 #6 is my
favorite Stanley.
Chuck Vance (who has a "few" old Stanleys)


Hey Chuck, so sorry to be so late for a reply. Been a while since
I used it so I had to get out my memory chip and plug it in.

The lever cap is old and with usual corrosion of over 100 years,
but still useable. let's say the screw in the frog has that bevel
underneath it's head, tapering to the shaft, so when the cap is
tightened down, the top inner curvature of the hole slides down
the distance of that screw's under-bevel.

I don't know if it is worn in or made to be that way, but below
that "top inner curvature of the hole" there are two side-to-side
bevels which the the screw's under-bevels will meet with perfectly.
So we have something of a whole 1/8" of movement from down
to up, of course dragging the blade with it, but for a shorter
distance distance than 1/8", which is completely mal-adjusting
the setting that I gave the blade when using the brass adjuster...

At the same time, when setting the blade for depth of cut, somehow
it is always skewing itself and a final skew setting is always to
one side or the other. I don't know if that is the result of the frog,
which stands up off the floor of the bed at the mouth (throat) area
about 3/32". I can't telll if it needs to be fettled by just looking at it.
But obviously it seats on the reciever and all surfaces are flat....

I polished the lever cap spring and the back of the lever as smooth
as possible so both will slide instead of grip and drag, but the blade
is still coated with tacky Johnson's. After I had bought the new Hock
HCS for it, I sharpened it and coated it but it took a great many
bodily movements to get the blade adjusted properly, and then there
was ... backlash? And then the same amount of readjusting.

There, I remebered you asked the question, and there are four paragraphs
of explanation. I own eight Stanley planes, the 80 scraper and the...

LV-V-LABP.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:

Hey Chuck, so sorry to be so late for a reply. Been a while since
I used it so I had to get out my memory chip and plug it in.

The lever cap is old and with usual corrosion of over 100 years,
but still useable. let's say the screw in the frog has that bevel
underneath it's head, tapering to the shaft, so when the cap is
tightened down, the top inner curvature of the hole slides down
the distance of that screw's under-bevel.

I don't know if it is worn in or made to be that way, but below
that "top inner curvature of the hole" there are two side-to-side
bevels which the the screw's under-bevels will meet with perfectly.
So we have something of a whole 1/8" of movement from down
to up, of course dragging the blade with it, but for a shorter
distance distance than 1/8", which is completely mal-adjusting
the setting that I gave the blade when using the brass adjuster...

At the same time, when setting the blade for depth of cut, somehow
it is always skewing itself and a final skew setting is always to
one side or the other. I don't know if that is the result of the frog,
which stands up off the floor of the bed at the mouth (throat) area
about 3/32". I can't telll if it needs to be fettled by just looking at it.
But obviously it seats on the reciever and all surfaces are flat....

I polished the lever cap spring and the back of the lever as smooth
as possible so both will slide instead of grip and drag, but the blade
is still coated with tacky Johnson's. After I had bought the new Hock
HCS for it, I sharpened it and coated it but it took a great many
bodily movements to get the blade adjusted properly, and then there
was ... backlash? And then the same amount of readjusting.

Yikes, I can see why you aren't fond if it. I'm wondering if the
frog screw wasn't a retrofit. Without having a plane in front of me to
look at, I don't recall any double/mating bevels on frog screws.

The part that really concerns me is where you say the frog sits
proud; it should be flush with the bed.

As for the skewing of the iron, when you are setting the plane up,
how tight do you have the lever screw?

So how much did you pay for this monstrosity? ;-)

There, I remebered you asked the question, and there are four paragraphs
of explanation. I own eight Stanley planes, the 80 scraper and the...

LV-V-LABP.

I'd rather not say how many I've got. ;-)


Chuck Vance

Conan The Librarian wrote in
:

AAvK wrote:

Hey Chuck, so sorry to be so late for a reply. Been a while since
I used it so I had to get out my memory chip and plug it in.

The lever cap is old and with usual corrosion of over 100 years,
but still useable. let's say the screw in the frog has that bevel
underneath it's head, tapering to the shaft, so when the cap is
tightened down, the top inner curvature of the hole slides down
the distance of that screw's under-bevel.

I don't know if it is worn in or made to be that way, but below
that "top inner curvature of the hole" there are two side-to-side
bevels which the the screw's under-bevels will meet with perfectly.
So we have something of a whole 1/8" of movement from down
to up, of course dragging the blade with it, but for a shorter
distance distance than 1/8", which is completely mal-adjusting
the setting that I gave the blade when using the brass adjuster...

At the same time, when setting the blade for depth of cut, somehow
it is always skewing itself and a final skew setting is always to
one side or the other. I don't know if that is the result of the
frog, which stands up off the floor of the bed at the mouth (throat)
area about 3/32". I can't telll if it needs to be fettled by just
looking at it. But obviously it seats on the reciever and all
surfaces are flat....

I polished the lever cap spring and the back of the lever as smooth
as possible so both will slide instead of grip and drag, but the
blade is still coated with tacky Johnson's. After I had bought the
new Hock HCS for it, I sharpened it and coated it but it took a great
many bodily movements to get the blade adjusted properly, and then
there was ... backlash? And then the same amount of readjusting.

Yikes, I can see why you aren't fond if it. I'm wondering if the
frog screw wasn't a retrofit. Without having a plane in front of me
to look at, I don't recall any double/mating bevels on frog screws.

The part that really concerns me is where you say the frog sits
proud; it should be flush with the bed.

As for the skewing of the iron, when you are setting the plane up,
how tight do you have the lever screw?

So how much did you pay for this monstrosity? ;-)

There, I remebered you asked the question, and there are four
paragraphs of explanation. I own eight Stanley planes, the 80 scraper
and the...

LV-V-LABP.

I'd rather not say how many I've got. ;-)


Chuck Vance


Not really wanting to step on this conversation, but...

I have a #6, of early '60's vintage, which I bought from a tool dealer
who used to frequent these parts years ago, and used to put out a
monthly list to various hand plane addicts. An unused old plane,
without hassle, at a fair price, in great shape, from someone who
clearly knew what he was selling, and planned on selling more of them as
the years went on.

Yes, I paid more than eBay prices for this tool. But I didn't have to
'win' anything, play sniping games, worry about the seller, or even do
all that much homework. The tool was sent on approval, and had I not
found it to be what I needed, I was responsible to send it back.
Otherwise, a personal check was sufficient. There is a lot to be said
for that business model, and someone who is willing to make a go of
that.

I wonder what Patrick is up to these days? I've seen no email list in
some time. Maybe he still has an old address of mine.

Patriarch,
nearing 3 dozen handplanes, and still nowhere near the most addicted in
his neighborhood...

Patriarch wrote:
Conan The Librarian wrote in
:


AAvK wrote:


Hey Chuck, so sorry to be so late for a reply. Been a while since
I used it so I had to get out my memory chip and plug it in.

The lever cap is old and with usual corrosion of over 100 years,
but still useable. let's say the screw in the frog has that bevel
underneath it's head, tapering to the shaft, so when the cap is
tightened down, the top inner curvature of the hole slides down
the distance of that screw's under-bevel.

I don't know if it is worn in or made to be that way, but below
that "top inner curvature of the hole" there are two side-to-side
bevels which the the screw's under-bevels will meet with perfectly.
So we have something of a whole 1/8" of movement from down
to up, of course dragging the blade with it, but for a shorter
distance distance than 1/8", which is completely mal-adjusting
the setting that I gave the blade when using the brass adjuster...

At the same time, when setting the blade for depth of cut, somehow
it is always skewing itself and a final skew setting is always to
one side or the other. I don't know if that is the result of the
frog, which stands up off the floor of the bed at the mouth (throat)
area about 3/32". I can't telll if it needs to be fettled by just
looking at it. But obviously it seats on the reciever and all
surfaces are flat....

I polished the lever cap spring and the back of the lever as smooth
as possible so both will slide instead of grip and drag, but the
blade is still coated with tacky Johnson's. After I had bought the
new Hock HCS for it, I sharpened it and coated it but it took a great
many bodily movements to get the blade adjusted properly, and then
there was ... backlash? And then the same amount of readjusting.

Yikes, I can see why you aren't fond if it. I'm wondering if the
frog screw wasn't a retrofit. Without having a plane in front of me
to look at, I don't recall any double/mating bevels on frog screws.

The part that really concerns me is where you say the frog sits
proud; it should be flush with the bed.

As for the skewing of the iron, when you are setting the plane up,
how tight do you have the lever screw?

So how much did you pay for this monstrosity? ;-)


There, I remebered you asked the question, and there are four
paragraphs of explanation. I own eight Stanley planes, the 80 scraper
and the...

LV-V-LABP.

I'd rather not say how many I've got. ;-)


Chuck Vance



Not really wanting to step on this conversation, but...

I have a #6, of early '60's vintage, which I bought from a tool dealer
who used to frequent these parts years ago, and used to put out a
monthly list to various hand plane addicts. An unused old plane,
without hassle, at a fair price, in great shape, from someone who
clearly knew what he was selling, and planned on selling more of them as
the years went on.

Yes, I paid more than eBay prices for this tool. But I didn't have to
'win' anything, play sniping games, worry about the seller, or even do
all that much homework. The tool was sent on approval, and had I not
found it to be what I needed, I was responsible to send it back.
Otherwise, a personal check was sufficient. There is a lot to be said
for that business model, and someone who is willing to make a go of
that.

I wonder what Patrick is up to these days? I've seen no email list in
some time. Maybe he still has an old address of mine.

Patriarch,
nearing 3 dozen handplanes, and still nowhere near the most addicted in
his neighborhood...
From the July list:
The August list may be some days late as I’ll be tool prowling
on the day the list is supposed to be sent.

Joe
in that neighborhood, too. But I'd have to look carefully to see how close.