With my new bench finally going operational I've kind of over done it
the last two days with the planes. My hands are now not looking or
feeling so good. Part of the problem is that these are old planes and
while I've put the knobs and totes that were in the best shape on the
ones I was using, the knobs especially are in rough shape. Completely
peppered with toolbox dings. Another part is that while I've
experimented with different grips on the knob I tend to favor having
my palm down on the top of it, and the head of the screw is doing a
number on me.

Will a new smooth replacement knob take care of it? I was thinking
that perhaps adding some padding under a leather cover on the knob
might be a good idea, but I see nothing about doing it in a google
search so either a) it won't be a problem with a new knob b) I have
soft girly hands and need to suck it up c) everyone has blisters but
won't admit it.


-Leuf

Leuf wrote:

With my new bench finally going operational I've kind of over done it
the last two days with the planes. My hands are now not looking or
feeling so good. Part of the problem is that these are old planes and
while I've put the knobs and totes that were in the best shape on the
ones I was using, the knobs especially are in rough shape. Completely
peppered with toolbox dings. Another part is that while I've
experimented with different grips on the knob I tend to favor having
my palm down on the top of it, and the head of the screw is doing a
number on me.

Will a new smooth replacement knob take care of it? I was thinking
that perhaps adding some padding under a leather cover on the knob
might be a good idea, but I see nothing about doing it in a google
search so either a) it won't be a problem with a new knob b) I have
soft girly hands and need to suck it up c) everyone has blisters but
won't admit it.

How about gloves with padded palm and no fingers? I've got a pair of them
kicking around somewhere that I use now and then. You wouldn't have to
mess with every plane and you don't need to worry about them getting
caught in machinery ).


-Leuf

My Stanley bench plane has plastic handles, so I don't have the ding
problem. However, I can see that the screw could be a problem for some
people. My solution requires a bit of work, but it should fix the
problem. First, take a piece of threaded rod from the hardware store
and cut off a piece about 1/2 to 3/4 inches long depending on the size
of you knob. Then you'll need one of the t-nuts or threaded inserts
which look like small nuts with spikes sticking out. You'll need to
unscrew the knob and hammer this nut into the wood in the bottom of the
knob until it is flush. Then simply screw the threaded rod into the
plane casting until it bottoms out, then screw on the knob. The t-nut
or threaded insert will act as a nut imbedded in the wood. You can
then just fill the hole in the top of the knob or ignore it. It sounds
complicated, but it really isn't. The one caveat is that you need to
make sure that when you buy the threaded rod and t-nut, it is the same
thread that is in the casting. This should do it, and I also recommend
the gloves in the previous post. I use them for chiseling and
hammering.

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 02:09:44 GMT, Lobby Dosser
wrote:


How about gloves with padded palm and no fingers? I've got a pair of them
kicking around somewhere that I use now and then. You wouldn't have to
mess with every plane and you don't need to worry about them getting
caught in machinery ).

I thought about that, and I may try that. I just think it may get
uncomfortable in the summer, which is why I thought put the glove on
the knob rather than on me. I've been freezing down in the shop, it's
about 8-10 degrees colder down there than our old house. 50 degrees
is just about perfect for a long planing session though

I thought I had an old baseball glove somewhere that could donate the
material to try it out, but it seems to have vanished.

-Leuf

On 15 Apr 2005 20:02:23 -0700, "woodworker88"
wrote:

My solution requires a bit of work, but it should fix the
problem.

snip plan to use a t-nut/insert

The one caveat is that you need to
make sure that when you buy the threaded rod and t-nut, it is the same
thread that is in the casting.

Good idea, but Stanley starting making them before thread sizes got
standardized, it's a weird #12-20. I have an idea for a different
tote design that I want to try out that I need a short bolt for, I
think I'm going to have to use a frog bolt for it. I knew there was a
reason I got two #4s...


-Leuf

Leuf wrote:

I thought I had an old baseball glove somewhere that could donate the
material to try it out, but it seems to have vanished.



It'll reappear when you no longer have a use for it!

Leuf wrote:

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 02:09:44 GMT, Lobby Dosser
wrote:


How about gloves with padded palm and no fingers? I've got a pair of them
kicking around somewhere that I use now and then. You wouldn't have to
mess with every plane and you don't need to worry about them getting
caught in machinery ).

I thought about that, and I may try that. I just think it may get
uncomfortable in the summer, which is why I thought put the glove on
the knob rather than on me. I've been freezing down in the shop, it's
about 8-10 degrees colder down there than our old house. 50 degrees
is just about perfect for a long planing session though

I thought I had an old baseball glove somewhere that could donate the
material to try it out, but it seems to have vanished.

If there's a rough spot on the knob or a buggered up screw head sticking
out, you need to fix that, especially a screw head.

I've got a pair of gel-padded bicycle gloves that I use on occasion--they're
not uncomfortable in the summer--they have good ventilation everywhere but
the palms--after all, they're designed for competitive bicyclists, who
often work pretty hard at having fun. Check a bike shop.



-Leuf

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Leuf wrote in
:

I thought I had an old baseball glove somewhere that could donate the
material to try it out, but it seems to have vanished.


The local Target or Wally World sells inexpensive golf gloves. Buy one for
the hand that gets the blisters, and trim the fingers near the knuckle. I
don't think you can spend more than $12, probably less.

The traditional finish for plane wood is some sort of varnish. However, a
simple linseed oil finish, with or without a topcoating of shellac, is very
skin friendly. Avoid plastic plane handles if at all possible.

There is a whole school of thought on plane wood amongst the cognesceti in
the archives of the hand tool forum of Woodcentral.com, should you ever go
searching for way more than you wanted to know of the matter.

Patriarch

Leuf wrote:

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 02:09:44 GMT, Lobby Dosser
wrote:


How about gloves with padded palm and no fingers? I've got a pair of
them kicking around somewhere that I use now and then. You wouldn't
have to mess with every plane and you don't need to worry about them
getting caught in machinery ).

I thought about that, and I may try that. I just think it may get
uncomfortable in the summer, which is why I thought put the glove on
the knob rather than on me. I've been freezing down in the shop, it's
about 8-10 degrees colder down there than our old house. 50 degrees
is just about perfect for a long planing session though

I thought I had an old baseball glove somewhere that could donate the
material to try it out, but it seems to have vanished.

-Leuf


If you really don't want to go the glove route, here's a few other ideas:

1. Auto shift knob cover.
2. Steering wheel cover.
3. Bicycle handle bar cover.
4. Turn your own new knobs. This has the advantage of buying some new
tools, if you don't own a lathe.
5. Buy some Steve Knight planes - obvious advantage.
6. Sharpen the blades. )

Leuf wrote:

Will a new smooth replacement knob take care of it? I was thinking
that perhaps adding some padding under a leather cover on the knob
might be a good idea, but I see nothing about doing it in a google
search so either a) it won't be a problem with a new knob b) I have
soft girly hands and need to suck it up c) everyone has blisters but
won't admit it.

How about a pair of weightlifting or bicycle riding gloves? Padded
centers yet the fingers are open.
John

woodworker88 wrote:

Maybe you just need to get friendly with someone who has a metalworking
lathe and could cut a weird thread for you. Or just drill and tap the
hole bigger, if your comfortable with doing that. Try 5/16-18 or the
5/16 or 3/8 NC tap size. You'll need a bottoming tap though.

Drill the hole bigger, tap it for an insert, put in the insert, and you're
back down to something close to the original diameter with a more available
thread.

--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

Maybe you just need to get friendly with someone who has a metalworking
lathe and could cut a weird thread for you. Or just drill and tap the
hole bigger, if your comfortable with doing that. Try 5/16-18 or the
5/16 or 3/8 NC tap size. You'll need a bottoming tap though.

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 15:45:48 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

woodworker88 wrote:

Maybe you just need to get friendly with someone who has a metalworking
lathe and could cut a weird thread for you. Or just drill and tap the
hole bigger, if your comfortable with doing that. Try 5/16-18 or the
5/16 or 3/8 NC tap size. You'll need a bottoming tap though.

Drill the hole bigger, tap it for an insert, put in the insert, and you're
back down to something close to the original diameter with a more available
thread.

My intent is to not doing anything irreversable. Granted it's worth
less than what a machine shop would probably charge to do it, but I'd
still rather leave it the way I got it. For the knob it looks like
the consensus is to get a smooth knob on there and if that isn't
enough wear a glove. And for my idea for the tote, the frog screw is
just about the right length. Eventually I may even get around to
doing it...


-Leuf

"Leuf" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 15:45:48 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

woodworker88 wrote:

Maybe you just need to get friendly with someone who has a metalworking
lathe and could cut a weird thread for you. Or just drill and tap the
hole bigger, if your comfortable with doing that. Try 5/16-18 or the
5/16 or 3/8 NC tap size. You'll need a bottoming tap though.

Drill the hole bigger, tap it for an insert, put in the insert, and you're
back down to something close to the original diameter with a more
available
thread.

My intent is to not doing anything irreversable. Granted it's worth
less than what a machine shop would probably charge to do it, but I'd
still rather leave it the way I got it. For the knob it looks like
the consensus is to get a smooth knob on there and if that isn't
enough wear a glove. And for my idea for the tote, the frog screw is
just about the right length. Eventually I may even get around to
doing it...


I *think* the whole problem is needing to fix the knob & screw, Someone
suggested turning a new knob. How about just sanding some of the dings out
of the old one? If the screw head is rough, take it out and file it smooth.
Other than that, get some gloves or grow some calluses(Yes, everyone gets
blisters but won't admit it).

--
Nahmie

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 17:52:40 GMT, Lobby Dosser
wrote:

This has the advantage of buying some new
tools, if you don't own a lathe.

Oh no, that's one slippery slope I'm not stepping down any time soon.
And I'll be lucky if a can afford the gloves at this point, much less
an endless assortment of pointy bits of metal. The new table saw has
pretty much quelched the tool lust for the time being.

6. Sharpen the blades. )

Well I was using a #5 as a scrub on two large panels. It was sharp,
it just took a darn long time to get through the failed veneer and
layer of poplar under it. But I have a nice pile of wormy chestnut
now


-Leuf

On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 23:09:08 -0400, "Norman D. Crow"
wrote:

I *think* the whole problem is needing to fix the knob & screw, Someone
suggested turning a new knob. How about just sanding some of the dings out
of the old one?

The dings are pretty deep. I haven't got enough just dinged up knobs
to go around anyway so I'm going to have to come up with something
else eventually. I may try making one even without a lathe. Should
be able to get a lot of the material out on the table saw and band
saw. I think I'd like to try making one a bit larger, more doorknob
shaped.


-Leuf

You would be refering to a piece of metal that looks like a nut with
the outside threaded as well as the inside. I never thought of that,
only the threaded inserts for wood with nut insides and woodscrew
outsides. Do you know where to get them, or do you have to make it
yourself?

Let me see if I understand this ......your plane knob is bothering your
hands? If the knob is rough, smooth it! If your hands are soft, use them
and they will be ok after a while. I once read that when someone says he is
building a boat, you need only shake hands with him to determind if he is
having the boat built or is actually doing the work.

woodworker88 wrote:
You would be refering to a piece of metal that looks like a nut with
the outside threaded as well as the inside. I never thought of that,
only the threaded inserts for wood with nut insides and woodscrew
outsides. Do you know where to get them, or do you have to make it
yourself?

A good hardware store will have them. The better ones will have
them in brass and steel. I don't remember what they are called.
There are also Tee-nuts, but those have a flange that attaches
to the surface. Good for some applications, especially plywood,
not for attaching knobs to planes though.

--

FF

"woodworker88" writes:

You would be refering to a piece of metal that looks like a nut with
the outside threaded as well as the inside. I never thought of that,

They are branded "Helicoil"

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

I checked it out, and that's really cool. Whenevery I used to make a
mistake in tapping, I would have to start over or drill out the hole
and use a bigger bolt. I never realized that I could just put in an
insert to bring it back down to the right size.

Got any auto junkyards? find a pistol grip shifter screw in a double machine
stud and cut the threads you need and than screw in the grip to the existing
hole.