I have been reading quite a bit on applying shellac. One thing I keep
coming back to is the padding method. I understand you pad on a thin
coat, then when you've reached the end, go back to where you started
and repeat process several times. I haven't worked up the courage to
try it, but I have been brushing with #1.5 with okay results. I
understand once you lay down a layer don't go back and brush anymore
because shellac dries so quickly. My question is why can't I simulate
the padding method with a brush? Not the result, just the method. By
that I mean brush on the first layer, then when I've finished the
surface go back to the beginning and repeat, like padding. I've only
read about brushing on 1 layer then wait.

"Andrew" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have been reading quite a bit on applying shellac. One thing I keep
coming back to is the padding method. I understand you pad on a thin
coat, then when you've reached the end, go back to where you started
and repeat process several times. I haven't worked up the courage to
try it, but I have been brushing with #1.5 with okay results. I
understand once you lay down a layer don't go back and brush anymore
because shellac dries so quickly. My question is why can't I simulate
the padding method with a brush? Not the result, just the method. By
that I mean brush on the first layer, then when I've finished the
surface go back to the beginning and repeat, like padding. I've only
read about brushing on 1 layer then wait.

With the pad you can get rid of marks by adding a lubricant to the pad -
French polishing.

You can also sit at the dining room table or the table in the ready room and
watch TV while you're polishing.

Padding applies less shellac than brushing so the alcohol has a better
chance of flashing off. The key word in your description was "thin"
coat.

On 1 Feb 2005 20:02:16 -0800, "Andrew" wrote:

I have been reading quite a bit on applying shellac. One thing I keep
coming back to is the padding method. I understand you pad on a thin
coat, then when you've reached the end, go back to where you started
and repeat process several times. I haven't worked up the courage to
try it, but I have been brushing with #1.5 with okay results. I
understand once you lay down a layer don't go back and brush anymore
because shellac dries so quickly. My question is why can't I simulate
the padding method with a brush? Not the result, just the method. By
that I mean brush on the first layer, then when I've finished the
surface go back to the beginning and repeat, like padding. I've only
read about brushing on 1 layer then wait.

I can do this at the dining table/watching TV because there is less
harmful vapors with padding comparaed to brushing? Or what is the
reason?

"Andrew" wrote in message
oups.com...
I can do this at the dining table/watching TV because there is less
harmful vapors with padding comparaed to brushing? Or what is the
reason?


Start to finish capability before halftime.

Ability to jump up and go on a run by throwing the rag on the table and
putting the tip on a squeeze bottle.

And then there's the beauty and depth of finish ....

"Australopithecus scobis" wrote in message snipped
4 bw
I've been trying out a yardsale hairdrier to move warm air over the
shellacked piece. Helps the "flash" in my chilly workshop. Can't get too
close nor too hot, else the alcohol makes blisters.

Patience, grasshopper.
Finishing well can hone the edge of patience.
If the shop is chilly, how about one of the halogen work lights... cheap, a
source of illumination and a chance for a tan! GD&R
Tom

snippage
Then there was the time I mistook my tub of oil+rottenstone for my tub of
shellac+pumice, and tried to fill the grain. Not only didn't it work, but
the shellac rubbed off. Whoops.

Feces occurs!
But Ill bet it was SMOOOOTH!
Tom

"Australopithecus scobis" wrote in message
news
On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 11:32:11 -0800, Andrew wrote:

I can do this at the dining table/watching TV because there is less
harmful vapors with padding comparaed to brushing? Or what is the
reason?

You want the solvent to go away fast so you can put on another thin coat.
I don't yet understand why that's better than putting on a thick coat and
waiting longer. The payoff might be that the drying time increases
exponentially with thickness of coat.

--

Of course, but padding also consolidates the finish better than laying a
thicker film and hoping consolidation can outrace evaporation.

No sanding between coats, either.

This probably isn't a good idea. What happens is that you release air
and possibly moisture from the pores of the wood and it leaves
bubbles... Don't ask me how I know... but this method has ruined more
than one finish... A couple before my thick head got it clear to NOT DO
THAT ANYMORE. Yes it will work for a quick look as to how the finish
will look, but not on the finished piece itself...

Australopithecus scobis wrote:

On Wed, 02 Feb 2005 08:32:25 -0800, Bob Bowles wrote:


Padding applies less shellac than brushing so the alcohol has a better
chance of flashing off. The key word in your description was "thin"
coat.


I've been trying out a yardsale hairdrier to move warm air over the
shellacked piece. Helps the "flash" in my chilly workshop. Can't get too
close nor too hot, else the alcohol makes blisters.