Newbie here...

OK, I have been patiently trying to learn some turning. Mostly turning a
bunch of coat-style hooks for aprons, etc. They all seem to end up
looking like pawns, but that is another story....

Anyway, I have been trying it with the skew chisel. This tool kinda
drives me crazy. When I used gouges, I wondered what all the fuss with
"catches" was; just rub the bevel, happy happy joy joy. Then came the
skew; whoa, you *can* knock something out of a Talon pretty easily. I
have the "Turning Wood" video and book but it is .... less then helpful
(that is a topic for another posting).

I am coming to the belief that my primary problem is that my skew is too
thin. Odd theory, I know; but the problem seems to be that I need a
really extreme angle to rub the bevel, so much so that the
tailstock/head gets in the way much of the time. It seems I frequently
end up with an unsupported edge and some really nasty catches. This is
because the factory angle is quite shallow (which I more or less
duplicated). A very shallow angle will be a bit wierd on such a thin
tool (a Henry Taylor oval skew,
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...1,330,43164,43
173&ccurrency=1&SID=); it seems a bit unwieldy. The ones in the
book/video are much thicker.

I have been really determined to keep expenses in check and concentrate
on technique and would really appreciate any help here.

PK

If you are knocking pieces out of a Talon with a skew then you have to be
digging the point into the workpiece. Always pay close attention to where
the top tip is at all times and make sure you are working above center. You
do not necessarily rub the bevel on a skew it is worked at all angles to
form the shapes and curves and cut you desire. I often do lay it rather flat
and then lift and rotate the handle to feed it into the workpiece. Make sure
your tool rest is close to the workpiece and at a height that makes cutting
comfortable and above center. The skew must be sharp and it is the one
lathe chisel that I will spend time honing to get a good edge.

When you mentioned the Talon I thought you might be using it on a bowl-
doesn't really work except for decorative grooves made by the tip.
Billh

"Paul Kierstead" wrote in message
news
Newbie here...

OK, I have been patiently trying to learn some turning. Mostly turning a
bunch of coat-style hooks for aprons, etc. They all seem to end up
looking like pawns, but that is another story....

Anyway, I have been trying it with the skew chisel. This tool kinda
drives me crazy. When I used gouges, I wondered what all the fuss with
"catches" was; just rub the bevel, happy happy joy joy. Then came the
skew; whoa, you *can* knock something out of a Talon pretty easily. I
have the "Turning Wood" video and book but it is .... less then helpful
(that is a topic for another posting).

I am coming to the belief that my primary problem is that my skew is too
thin. Odd theory, I know; but the problem seems to be that I need a
really extreme angle to rub the bevel, so much so that the
tailstock/head gets in the way much of the time. It seems I frequently
end up with an unsupported edge and some really nasty catches. This is
because the factory angle is quite shallow (which I more or less
duplicated). A very shallow angle will be a bit wierd on such a thin
tool (a Henry Taylor oval skew,
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...1,330,43164,43
173&ccurrency=1&SID=); it seems a bit unwieldy. The ones in the
book/video are much thicker.

I have been really determined to keep expenses in check and concentrate
on technique and would really appreciate any help here.

PK

If you have a live center use your old dead center in the headstock to
drive the work. Now, if you get a catch the work will just spin and not
scare hell out of you. If the work keeps spinning after the catch,
tighten the tail stock. The other benefit of using the dead center to
drive your work is you'll start using your tools with a soft touch. This
technique also works with the gouge. I frequently rough out turnings
between center, driving with the dead center. If you look at the Sorby
Stebcenter it's just a dead center with some notches. If you're good
with a file you can make your own.

The second part is to use the bottom 1/3d of the skew (not the pointy
end). Remember the skew is a flat gouge and you still have to RUB THE
BEVEL!!! and feel your way into the cut.

The third part is to make everything in your shop that's not round,
round. When you're no longer spooked reverse hands so you don't keep
bumping into the headstock.

There's a lot more to the skew but the hints above should get you
started. If you have a chance to watch Richard Raffan's Videos you'll
appreciate what can be done with the skew. I've not seen Alan Lacer's
video but I understand it's very good.

Good Luck



Paul Kierstead wrote:

Newbie here...

OK, I have been patiently trying to learn some turning. Mostly turning a
bunch of coat-style hooks for aprons, etc. They all seem to end up
looking like pawns, but that is another story....

Anyway, I have been trying it with the skew chisel. This tool kinda
drives me crazy. When I used gouges, I wondered what all the fuss with
"catches" was; just rub the bevel, happy happy joy joy. Then came the
skew; whoa, you *can* knock something out of a Talon pretty easily. I
have the "Turning Wood" video and book but it is .... less then helpful
(that is a topic for another posting).

I am coming to the belief that my primary problem is that my skew is too
thin. Odd theory, I know; but the problem seems to be that I need a
really extreme angle to rub the bevel, so much so that the
tailstock/head gets in the way much of the time. It seems I frequently
end up with an unsupported edge and some really nasty catches. This is
because the factory angle is quite shallow (which I more or less
duplicated). A very shallow angle will be a bit wierd on such a thin
tool (a Henry Taylor oval skew,
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...1,330,43164,43
173&ccurrency=1&SID=); it seems a bit unwieldy. The ones in the
book/video are much thicker.

I have been really determined to keep expenses in check and concentrate
on technique and would really appreciate any help here.

PK

Alan Lacer has a pretty good video on skew chisel use. You can find his web
site at http://www.woodturninglearn.net/. He's also got some pretty good
articles on the site including a lesson on sharpening.

Andy


"Paul Kierstead" wrote in message
news
Newbie here...

OK, I have been patiently trying to learn some turning. Mostly turning a
bunch of coat-style hooks for aprons, etc. They all seem to end up
looking like pawns, but that is another story....

Anyway, I have been trying it with the skew chisel. This tool kinda
drives me crazy. When I used gouges, I wondered what all the fuss with
"catches" was; just rub the bevel, happy happy joy joy. Then came the
skew; whoa, you *can* knock something out of a Talon pretty easily. I
have the "Turning Wood" video and book but it is .... less then helpful
(that is a topic for another posting).

I am coming to the belief that my primary problem is that my skew is too
thin. Odd theory, I know; but the problem seems to be that I need a
really extreme angle to rub the bevel, so much so that the
tailstock/head gets in the way much of the time. It seems I frequently
end up with an unsupported edge and some really nasty catches. This is
because the factory angle is quite shallow (which I more or less
duplicated). A very shallow angle will be a bit wierd on such a thin
tool (a Henry Taylor oval skew,
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...1,330,43164,43
173&ccurrency=1&SID=); it seems a bit unwieldy. The ones in the
book/video are much thicker.

I have been really determined to keep expenses in check and concentrate
on technique and would really appreciate any help here.

PK

In article ,
JHS wrote:

I've not seen Alan Lacer's
video but I understand it's very good.

Excellent video - Lacer's "The Skew Chisel". Well explained, clear
video, lots of detail and explanation.

--
"To know the world intimately is the beginning of caring."
-- Ann Hayman Zwinger

Paul,

A) I always figure the bevel should rub in the clean area immediately
following the cut, not in an area alongside where you are cutting.
Think of it more like a plane instead of a knife. Bring the skew
around so the handle is closer to 75 - 80 degrees to the ways of the
lathe and work with the very bottom of the cutting edge (the obtuse
angle, not the acute angle). If you use only the bottom 1/8" of the
blade you won't be too far wrong.

B) I recommend Alan Lacer's video, too.

C) Take the other suggestion about making everything you can find
round. Practice helps a bunch.

Good Luck,
David

Paul Kierstead wrote:
Newbie here...

OK, I have been patiently trying to learn some turning. Mostly turning a
bunch of coat-style hooks for aprons, etc. They all seem to end up
looking like pawns, but that is another story....

Anyway, I have been trying it with the skew chisel. This tool kinda
drives me crazy. When I used gouges, I wondered what all the fuss with
"catches" was; just rub the bevel, happy happy joy joy. Then came the
skew; whoa, you *can* knock something out of a Talon pretty easily. I
have the "Turning Wood" video and book but it is .... less then helpful
(that is a topic for another posting).

I am coming to the belief that my primary problem is that my skew is too
thin. Odd theory, I know; but the problem seems to be that I need a
really extreme angle to rub the bevel, so much so that the
tailstock/head gets in the way much of the time. It seems I frequently
end up with an unsupported edge and some really nasty catches. This is
because the factory angle is quite shallow (which I more or less
duplicated). A very shallow angle will be a bit wierd on such a thin
tool (a Henry Taylor oval skew,
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...1,330,43164,43
173&ccurrency=1&SID=); it seems a bit unwieldy. The ones in the
book/video are much thicker.

I have been really determined to keep expenses in check and concentrate
on technique and would really appreciate any help here.

PK

Paul,

If you are trying to make some of the skew cuts that Raffan shows, be
sure that you have a RADIUS edge skew. A straight edged skew doesn't
work well for some of his cuts. If you are trying to roll a bead as on
the end of a shaker style peg (coat hook) the skew has to move in three
directions simultaneously. The blade has to roll, be pushed toward
center, and as you get close to center, the end of the handle has to
swing in a horizontal arc. also be sure that you are cutting only with
bottom i/8" edge of the blade with the obtuse point down.

--
Dan Kozar



remove NOSPAM

One of the standard answers to the problem is to make the skew more
gouge-like by grinding a convex profile. That way if the rotation grabs,
there is just a bit of natural relief to keep the thing from running too
far. Lots of information on that in standard sources.

Now, if you're turning Shaker pegs or similar, which is what I liked to
start the kids at school on, you'll feel much better with a non-skewed
chisel. The skew really comes into its own on longer tapers and flats, not
on short ones. For that, what the old birds called a beading tool is great.
If you're like most people and bought a set of tools to begin turning, you
can take that 1/2" spear-point scraper and make it into a beading tool by
grinding skew-slope bevels either side of a squared end. This planes, cuts
and sizes that tenon beautifully, and since it is almost infinitely
relieved, it doesn't catch. What it also doesn't do is reference as well
for long straight or tapered sections, because you can't lay as much bevel
on the work as a skew. It'll tend to ride up and down until you get really
proficient with it.

Alternatives include a tool with a bevel on one side only called a Bedan,
or, for a preview, you might want to try working with your 1/4" parting tool
as if it were an extremely blunt chisel. Roll a few convex surfaces with
it, and you'll be convinced.

"Paul Kierstead" wrote in message
news
Newbie here...

OK, I have been patiently trying to learn some turning. Mostly turning a
bunch of coat-style hooks for aprons, etc. They all seem to end up
looking like pawns, but that is another story....

Anyway, I have been trying it with the skew chisel. This tool kinda
drives me crazy. When I used gouges, I wondered what all the fuss with
"catches" was; just rub the bevel, happy happy joy joy. Then came the
skew; whoa, you *can* knock something out of a Talon pretty easily. I
have the "Turning Wood" video and book but it is .... less then helpful
(that is a topic for another posting).

SNIP

I was advised to start using my skew for everything, even including
roughing. You need to develop a feel for what positions of the tool will
work, and which are dangerous, by practice, practice, practice. You will
eventually stop having so many catches, and will be able to think about the
work, without consciously thinking about the tool positition.

Leo and all:

I need, I think, to interject my thinking here. There is no question that the skew is hard
to use. Maybe that is because it is just not the best tool for a lot of what we are trying
to use it for -- maybe there are better tools for just about everything we try to use it for!

Planing cuts on spindles? My roughing gouge has the wings well ground back. The tool cuts
in the center of the edge just as everybody else's does. But, if I roll it over on edge and
keep the handle perpendicular to the cut, it will take a shearing cut. I defy you to tell
the difference between the surface I get and the surface from a skew. If you analyze what
I'm doing you will see that the edge is presented the same way with both tools.

Making beads? Use a 3/8 beading and parting tool. It is much easier to use and also has a
lot of other uses. And it is cheap. The brits like Martin Pidgen
(http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/pulls.htm) turn more beads in a day than we turn in a
month. Martin uses the 3/8 beading and parting tool. If it is good enough for him, it is
good enough for me.

The only time you need a skew is when making v cuts which are very narrow or beads which are
close together. In these cases use a small, hand-made round skew. Make it from a piece of
drill blank -- one in 1/4" and one in 3/8" will meet all your needs.

Bill

In article ,
says...
I was advised to start using my skew for everything, even including
roughing. You need to develop a feel for what positions of the tool will
work, and which are dangerous, by practice, practice, practice. You will
eventually stop having so many catches, and will be able to think about the
work, without consciously thinking about the tool positition.

Paul Kierstead wrote:
I have been really determined to keep expenses in check and concentrate
on technique and would really appreciate any help here.

Sometimes the best way to learn is to have someone standing next
to you. Check the sig line at the end of this message, find the
local chapter near you and if you haven't already, join the AAW as
well as the local chapter. You'll find a bunch of people who can
help you and will be happy to do so.

Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
American Association of Woodturners
http://www.woodturner.org
Capital Area Woodturners
http://www.capwoodturners.org/
PATINA
http://www.Patinatools.org/

Bill,
I use both the skew and a roughing gouge in a shearing cut. I find the cut
from the skew to be better than that of a roughing gouge. Don't know why
exactly but I can definitely see what I'm doing better with a skew. My skew
also tends to be sharper and have a finer edge (I hone it) than my roughing
gouge (which just comes off of the grinder). I think the rubbing bevel of
the skew tends to do a better job of burnishing the wood and requires little
sanding. I slowly learned the skew over the 6 years I have been turning and
I am glad I have.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners
http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com/

"Bill Rubenstein" wrote in message
. net...
Leo and all:

I need, I think, to interject my thinking here. There is no question that
the skew is hard
to use. Maybe that is because it is just not the best tool for a lot of
what we are trying
to use it for -- maybe there are better tools for just about everything we
try to use it for!

Planing cuts on spindles? My roughing gouge has the wings well ground
back. The tool cuts
in the center of the edge just as everybody else's does. But, if I roll
it over on edge and
keep the handle perpendicular to the cut, it will take a shearing cut. I
defy you to tell
the difference between the surface I get and the surface from a skew. If
you analyze what
I'm doing you will see that the edge is presented the same way with both
tools.

Making beads? Use a 3/8 beading and parting tool. It is much easier to
use and also has a
lot of other uses. And it is cheap. The brits like Martin Pidgen
(http://www.fholder.com/Woodturning/pulls.htm) turn more beads in a day
than we turn in a
month. Martin uses the 3/8 beading and parting tool. If it is good
enough for him, it is
good enough for me.

The only time you need a skew is when making v cuts which are very narrow
or beads which are
close together. In these cases use a small, hand-made round skew. Make
it from a piece of
drill blank -- one in 1/4" and one in 3/8" will meet all your needs.

Bill

In article ,
Dave in Fairfax wrote:

Paul Kierstead wrote:
I have been really determined to keep expenses in check and concentrate
on technique and would really appreciate any help here.

Sometimes the best way to learn is to have someone standing next
to you. Check the sig line at the end of this message, find the
local chapter near you and if you haven't already, join the AAW as
well as the local chapter. You'll find a bunch of people who can
help you and will be happy to do so.


This is absolutely true of course. There is a woodturners club here as
well. I have entirely too much enthusiasm for learning things on my own;
my mother always called it something along the lines of "independent
stubborn (*&$# ... ". I will admit seeing beats reading by an order of
magnitude.

PK

In article , "George" george@least
wrote:

One of the standard answers to the problem is to make the skew more
gouge-like by grinding a convex profile. That way if the rotation grabs,
there is just a bit of natural relief to keep the thing from running too
far. Lots of information on that in standard sources.

I actually did that after posting the message and it did help some.

Now, if you're turning Shaker pegs or similar, which is what I liked to
start the kids at school on, you'll feel much better with a non-skewed
chisel.

Well.... I guess the thing I was pursuing was doing said pegs as a way
of practicing with the skew; i.e. the goal was using the skew, not
making pegs; the pegs part was just so something came out of it.


If you're like most people and bought a set of tools to begin turning, you
can take that 1/2" spear-point scraper and make it into a beading tool by
grinding skew-slope bevels either side of a squared end.

I didn't buy a set; got one roughing gouge, got a smaller gouge (1/2" I
think), a skew and a parting tool. From my reading I should be able to
do al lot of non-bowl turning with that lot. But that is an interesting
suggestion for the future which I filed away.

Alternatives include a tool with a bevel on one side only called a Bedan,
or, for a preview, you might want to try working with your 1/4" parting tool
as if it were an extremely blunt chisel. Roll a few convex surfaces with
it, and you'll be convinced.

Hmmm... that I will try. Sounds like fun. Thanks for all the help and
suggestions!

PK

In article ,
Dan Kozar wrote:

If you are trying to make some of the skew cuts that Raffan shows, be
sure that you have a RADIUS edge skew. A straight edged skew doesn't
work well for some of his cuts. If you are trying to roll a bead as on
the end of a shaker style peg (coat hook) the skew has to move in three
directions simultaneously. The blade has to roll, be pushed toward
center, and as you get close to center, the end of the handle has to
swing in a horizontal arc. also be sure that you are cutting only with
bottom i/8" edge of the blade with the obtuse point down.

I have since put the radius on there. Helps for sure; thanks for that
suggestion (and the others who said it!)!! Does make a fair difference.

LOL, I'll say the ends are a complex movement. I started with some glued
up scrap cherry (y'know, very dry cherry isn't the easiest turning
stuff, especially the roughing part...) to make a peg for hanging my air
hose on. This is for practice of course. The peg started out way more
then long enough. By the time I got the end bead done even passably, it
was way too short Guess it will be hook for something smaller... Fun
and learning though.

PK

In article ,
"Andy Reynolds" wrote:

Alan Lacer has a pretty good video on skew chisel use. You can find his web
site at http://www.woodturninglearn.net/. He's also got some pretty good
articles on the site including a lesson on sharpening.

Thanks for the pointer to the site! I read a couple of articles and they
are enlightening. I will have to contemplate the video's; gonna be
expensive by the time they get to Canada and he doesn't make ordering
easy.... but still, sometimes you want quality, you have to pay a little
and put a little work into it.

PK

In article ,
JHS wrote:

If you have a live center use your old dead center in the headstock to
drive the work. Now, if you get a catch the work will just spin and not
scare hell out of you. If the work keeps spinning after the catch,
tighten the tail stock. The other benefit of using the dead center to
drive your work is you'll start using your tools with a soft touch. This
technique also works with the gouge. I frequently rough out turnings
between center, driving with the dead center. If you look at the Sorby
Stebcenter it's just a dead center with some notches. If you're good
with a file you can make your own.

I don't have a dead center and have been looking at the Stebcenter.
Actually, the catches don't ... scare me much (I think I might be
stupid), but they are mighty irritating and I would like to limit the
damage caused. I suspect larger stock might make me more respectful too.
Perhaps I should try them out; I am not 100% sure that the price is
"worth it" though, although I admit several people have recommended this
so perhaps I should *listen*.

The second part is to use the bottom 1/3d of the skew (not the pointy
end). Remember the skew is a flat gouge and you still have to RUB THE
BEVEL!!! and feel your way into the cut.

I thing I was using too much edge. I have ground a slight radius and
that seems to help too.

The third part is to make everything in your shop that's not round,
round. When you're no longer spooked reverse hands so you don't keep
bumping into the headstock.

My shop is rapidly approaching square-wood-challenged status. Tis fun.

There's a lot more to the skew but the hints above should get you
started. If you have a chance to watch Richard Raffan's Videos you'll
appreciate what can be done with the skew. I've not seen Alan Lacer's
video but I understand it's very good.

I have his Turning Wood video. The problem is that he doesn't really
describe what he is doing much, or show it. The video definitely helped,
but could be a *lot* better. I guess it is getting a bit long in the
tooth.

PK

Tony Manella wrote:
I use both the skew and a roughing gouge in a shearing cut. I find the cut
from the skew to be better than that of a roughing gouge. Don't know why
exactly but I can definitely see what I'm doing better with a skew. My skew
also tends to be sharper and have a finer edge (I hone it) than my roughing
gouge (which just comes off of the grinder). I think the rubbing bevel of
the skew tends to do a better job of burnishing the wood and requires little
sanding.

Whilst I agree that you can cut wood with just about any sharp piece of
metal, should one wish, certain tools will perform better in certain
circumstances. There are many significant differences between the
geometry of skew chisels and roughing gouges.

The sharpening angle of a skew is usually much more acute. This
obviously makes the tool sharper, but it also means that the bevel is
much longer and this can make the tool more stable. The bevel of a skew
is also flat, and I suspect that this makes it easier to control,
compared to the conical surface of the roughing gouge bevel.

Another interesting point is that the skew is sharpened on both sides.
This reduces the angle between the rubbing bevel and the axis of the
tool. So when you push the tool forward, more of that pushing force is
going in the direction of the cut rather than pushing the bevel against
the wood.


--
Derek Andrews, woodturner

http://www.seafoamwoodturning.com
Wedding Favors ~ Artisan Crafted Gifts ~ One-of-a-Kind Woodturning

It's safer for a newbie to use the roughing gouge, though. Bigger surface
on the rest, doesn't roll as easily.

"Tony Manella" ndd1 at prolog.net wrote in message
...
Bill,
I use both the skew and a roughing gouge in a shearing cut. I find the
cut
from the skew to be better than that of a roughing gouge. Don't know why
exactly but I can definitely see what I'm doing better with a skew. My
skew
also tends to be sharper and have a finer edge (I hone it) than my
roughing
gouge (which just comes off of the grinder). I think the rubbing bevel of
the skew tends to do a better job of burnishing the wood and requires
little
sanding. I slowly learned the skew over the 6 years I have been turning
and
I am glad I have.

In article ,
"billh" wrote:

If you are knocking pieces out of a Talon with a skew then you have to be
digging the point into the workpiece. Always pay close attention to where
the top tip is at all times and make sure you are working above center.

It is usually the tip that digs in indeed, leaving a very unsightly
groove. I think the above center part may some of the problem.

helpful advice snipped for brevity

When you mentioned the Talon I thought you might be using it on a bowl-
doesn't really work except for decorative grooves made by the tip.
Billh

No no, no bowls for me. Thanks for all the help! It definitely helps.

PK

True, but everyone who does spindle turning should learn sometime.
Tony Manella
ndd1"at"prolog.net (remove "at")
http://home.ptd.net/~ndd1/
Lehigh Valley Woodturners
http://www.lehighvalleywoodturners.com/

"George" george@least wrote in message
...
It's safer for a newbie to use the roughing gouge, though. Bigger surface
on the rest, doesn't roll as easily.

"Tony Manella" ndd1 at prolog.net wrote in message
...
Bill,
I use both the skew and a roughing gouge in a shearing cut. I find the
cut
from the skew to be better than that of a roughing gouge. Don't know
why
exactly but I can definitely see what I'm doing better with a skew. My
skew
also tends to be sharper and have a finer edge (I hone it) than my
roughing
gouge (which just comes off of the grinder). I think the rubbing bevel
of
the skew tends to do a better job of burnishing the wood and requires
little
sanding. I slowly learned the skew over the 6 years I have been turning
and
I am glad I have.

Paul,
I've followed this thread with interest since the skew is my favorite
tool. Using the skew is like shaving with a straight razor, the blade
glides across the skin on its bevel and you do the same with the skew
on the wood. With the lathe off, hold the skew against the wood and
rotate the piece to see how and where the skew is cutting;
understanding this helps a lot.

Good Luck
Ruth

In article , Ruth
wrote:

I've followed this thread with interest since the skew is my favorite
tool. Using the skew is like shaving with a straight razor, the blade
glides across the skin on its bevel and you do the same with the skew
on the wood. With the lathe off, hold the skew against the wood and
rotate the piece to see how and where the skew is cutting;
understanding this helps a lot.

I recall a post I made some time back bemoaning the skew. IIRC you were
one of the turners that gently corrected me, and I went back to the
lathe and spent some time learning to use the tool.

I never did express my thanks for that correction. I quite enjoy using
the skew now.

Thanks.

djb

Tony Manella wrote:

True, but everyone who does spindle turning should learn sometime.


This may help some: http://www.alaska.net/~atftb/skew1.htm

....Kevin
--
Kevin & Theresa Miller
Juneau, Alaska
http://www.alaska.net/~atftb

If you are knocking pieces out of a Talon with a skew then you have to be
digging the point into the workpiece. Always pay close attention to where
the top tip is at all times and make sure you are working above center. You
do not necessarily rub the bevel on a skew it is worked at all angles to
form the shapes and curves and cut you desire. I often do lay it rather flat
and then lift and rotate the handle to feed it into the workpiece. Make sure
your tool rest is close to the workpiece and at a height that makes cutting
comfortable and above center. The skew must be sharp and it is the one
lathe chisel that I will spend time honing to get a good edge.
BRBR

Bill,
I have to respectfully disagree with you. As Allan Batty, the master of the
skew chisel says, it is not the tip of the long point that causes the catch.
The tip is what makes that spiral you see, but that's because the tip is the
last thing that was drawn into the wood when the long straight edge became
unsupported and dug into the wood. Like any other woodturning tool, when you
lift the bevel off the wood the edge is unsupported and it can dig in. It's not
the point that causes the catch, it's the unsupported edge.
That said, a skew with more mass such as Alan Lacer uses is much friendlier
than a small oval skew such as the Sorby. Try making a skew out of a 3/8 thick
square scraper, easing the corners a bit, and you will be amazed at how much
more friendly it becomes.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

I think there's a point being missed over and over again about the skew, and
that is what Jim is saying. If you use it anywhere below the very top of
your turning, the open edge can be drawn into the cut _by the rotation of
the piece_ as you begin any downward motion of the edge, regardless the
bevel. It's for precisely that reason that people grind convex profiles on
their skews to give them a little bit more clearance, or use a gouge, which
clears in two directions. Think about the geometry of it. The heel is
never farther from center than the extended portion , so rotating the tool
to cut inward may bring the extended portion _further_ into the cut than the
edge you're trying to control, resulting in a catch.

Can't do this with a short square chisel - one point of tangency possible
only, anywhere above centerline. Think that's why the bodgers used 'em to
cut beads - a skew would have caught

"Jim Gott" wrote in message
...
If you are knocking pieces out of a Talon with a skew then you have to
be
digging the point into the workpiece. Always pay close attention to where
the top tip is at all times and make sure you are working above center.
You
do not necessarily rub the bevel on a skew it is worked at all angles to
form the shapes and curves and cut you desire. I often do lay it rather
flat
and then lift and rotate the handle to feed it into the workpiece. Make
sure
your tool rest is close to the workpiece and at a height that makes
cutting
comfortable and above center. The skew must be sharp and it is the one
lathe chisel that I will spend time honing to get a good edge.
BRBR

Bill,
I have to respectfully disagree with you. As Allan Batty, the master of
the
skew chisel says, it is not the tip of the long point that causes the
catch.
The tip is what makes that spiral you see, but that's because the tip is
the
last thing that was drawn into the wood when the long straight edge became
unsupported and dug into the wood. Like any other woodturning tool, when
you
lift the bevel off the wood the edge is unsupported and it can dig in.
It's not
the point that causes the catch, it's the unsupported edge.
That said, a skew with more mass such as Alan Lacer uses is much
friendlier
than a small oval skew such as the Sorby. Try making a skew out of a 3/8
thick
square scraper, easing the corners a bit, and you will be amazed at how
much
more friendly it becomes.
-Jim Gott-
San Jose, CA

George wrote:
I think there's a point being missed over and over again about the skew, and
that is what Jim is saying. If you use it anywhere below the very top of
your turning, the open edge can be drawn into the cut _by the rotation of
the piece_ as you begin any downward motion of the edge, regardless the
bevel. It's for precisely that reason that people grind convex profiles on
their skews to give them a little bit more clearance, or use a gouge, which
clears in two directions. Think about the geometry of it. The heel is
never farther from center than the extended portion , so rotating the tool
to cut inward may bring the extended portion _further_ into the cut than the
edge you're trying to control, resulting in a catch.

Can't do this with a short square chisel - one point of tangency possible
only, anywhere above centerline. Think that's why the bodgers used 'em to
cut beads - a skew would have caught

I guess if that works for you then great, but it would be very awkward
to cut on the top of the turning for me. I usually set the rest so that
my skew is cutting between 10 and 11 o:clock (so to speak) with the long
point up. What you have to pay attention to is that you cut on the
*bottom* half of the edge if the long point's up. That will leave the
top half up in the air, away from the wood, hence no catch.

When rolling a bead I find that it's easiest to roll it about half
way,cutting w/the heel then turn the tool over and finish the cut w/the
long point. YMMV.

Note that some (for instance Raffan) like to take take planing cuts with
the long pont down. In that case the rest is about center line, the
skew nearly verticle and the long point is cutting roughly along the
centerline. This cut is best for roughing out an out of round piece to
get it true...

....Kevin

It's actually pretty neat. You curl your off hand around the turning,
fingers straight down to avoid stubbing, and put your thumb on the skew.
Don't need a steady.

"Millers" wrote in message
...

I guess if that works for you then great, but it would be very awkward
to cut on the top of the turning for me. I usually set the rest so that
my skew is cutting between 10 and 11 o:clock (so to speak) with the long
point up.

George wrote:
It's actually pretty neat. You curl your off hand around the turning,
fingers straight down to avoid stubbing, and put your thumb on the skew.
Don't need a steady.

I can see how that would work for taking a cylinder down to a smaller
size, but I don't think I'd try to cut any beads or coves that way.

Actually, it sounds to me like one of those "I'm a trained professional
kids, don't try this at home" sort of things. g Unless we're talking
a little half inch diameter or thereabouts. I've done that before...

....Kevin

Frank Pain, bodger extraordinaire. If you have to have one book to learn to
turn - not what to turn, of them there are hundreds - get _The Practical
Woodturner_ if you can find it in print.

One thing I honestly have to say about the way I turn is that I have taught
it to kids from 11 to 18 years old. It's definitely not professional.

"Millers" wrote in message
...

Actually, it sounds to me like one of those "I'm a trained professional
kids, don't try this at home" sort of things. g Unless we're talking
a little half inch diameter or thereabouts. I've done that before...

...Kevin