One of the standard answers to the problem is to make the skew more
gouge-like by grinding a convex profile. That way if the rotation grabs,
there is just a bit of natural relief to keep the thing from running too
far. Lots of information on that in standard sources.

Now, if you're turning Shaker pegs or similar, which is what I liked to
start the kids at school on, you'll feel much better with a non-skewed
chisel. The skew really comes into its own on longer tapers and flats, not
on short ones. For that, what the old birds called a beading tool is great.
If you're like most people and bought a set of tools to begin turning, you
can take that 1/2" spear-point scraper and make it into a beading tool by
grinding skew-slope bevels either side of a squared end. This planes, cuts
and sizes that tenon beautifully, and since it is almost infinitely
relieved, it doesn't catch. What it also doesn't do is reference as well
for long straight or tapered sections, because you can't lay as much bevel
on the work as a skew. It'll tend to ride up and down until you get really
proficient with it.

Alternatives include a tool with a bevel on one side only called a Bedan,
or, for a preview, you might want to try working with your 1/4" parting tool
as if it were an extremely blunt chisel. Roll a few convex surfaces with
it, and you'll be convinced.

"Paul Kierstead" wrote in message
news
Newbie here...

OK, I have been patiently trying to learn some turning. Mostly turning a
bunch of coat-style hooks for aprons, etc. They all seem to end up
looking like pawns, but that is another story....

Anyway, I have been trying it with the skew chisel. This tool kinda
drives me crazy. When I used gouges, I wondered what all the fuss with
"catches" was; just rub the bevel, happy happy joy joy. Then came the
skew; whoa, you *can* knock something out of a Talon pretty easily. I
have the "Turning Wood" video and book but it is .... less then helpful
(that is a topic for another posting).

SNIP