George wrote:
I think there's a point being missed over and over again about the skew, and
that is what Jim is saying. If you use it anywhere below the very top of
your turning, the open edge can be drawn into the cut _by the rotation of
the piece_ as you begin any downward motion of the edge, regardless the
bevel. It's for precisely that reason that people grind convex profiles on
their skews to give them a little bit more clearance, or use a gouge, which
clears in two directions. Think about the geometry of it. The heel is
never farther from center than the extended portion , so rotating the tool
to cut inward may bring the extended portion _further_ into the cut than the
edge you're trying to control, resulting in a catch.

Can't do this with a short square chisel - one point of tangency possible
only, anywhere above centerline. Think that's why the bodgers used 'em to
cut beads - a skew would have caught

I guess if that works for you then great, but it would be very awkward
to cut on the top of the turning for me. I usually set the rest so that
my skew is cutting between 10 and 11 o:clock (so to speak) with the long
point up. What you have to pay attention to is that you cut on the
*bottom* half of the edge if the long point's up. That will leave the
top half up in the air, away from the wood, hence no catch.

When rolling a bead I find that it's easiest to roll it about half
way,cutting w/the heel then turn the tool over and finish the cut w/the
long point. YMMV.

Note that some (for instance Raffan) like to take take planing cuts with
the long pont down. In that case the rest is about center line, the
skew nearly verticle and the long point is cutting roughly along the
centerline. This cut is best for roughing out an out of round piece to
get it true...

....Kevin