In article ,
JHS wrote:
If you have a live center use your old dead center in the headstock to
drive the work. Now, if you get a catch the work will just spin and not
scare hell out of you. If the work keeps spinning after the catch,
tighten the tail stock. The other benefit of using the dead center to
drive your work is you'll start using your tools with a soft touch. This
technique also works with the gouge. I frequently rough out turnings
between center, driving with the dead center. If you look at the Sorby
Stebcenter it's just a dead center with some notches. If you're good
with a file you can make your own.
I don't have a dead center and have been looking at the Stebcenter.
Actually, the catches don't ... scare me much (I think I might be
stupid), but they are mighty irritating and I would like to limit the
damage caused. I suspect larger stock might make me more respectful too.
Perhaps I should try them out; I am not 100% sure that the price is
"worth it" though, although I admit several people have recommended this
so perhaps I should *listen*.
The second part is to use the bottom 1/3d of the skew (not the pointy
end). Remember the skew is a flat gouge and you still have to RUB THE
BEVEL!!! and feel your way into the cut.
I thing I was using too much edge. I have ground a slight radius and
that seems to help too.
The third part is to make everything in your shop that's not round,
round. When you're no longer spooked reverse hands so you don't keep
bumping into the headstock.
My shop is rapidly approaching square-wood-challenged status. Tis fun.
There's a lot more to the skew but the hints above should get you
started. If you have a chance to watch Richard Raffan's Videos you'll
appreciate what can be done with the skew. I've not seen Alan Lacer's
video but I understand it's very good.
I have his Turning Wood video. The problem is that he doesn't really
describe what he is doing much, or show it. The video definitely helped,
but could be a *lot* better. I guess it is getting a bit long in the
tooth.
PK
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