So, what would y'all use to fasten clear glass to turned wood? I'm
wanting to replace a broken wine glass stem with a turned base, and
realized that whatever I use to stick the two together will be visible
through the bottom of the glass!

I'm thinking Gorilla Glue is right out; it looks like a dead slug when
it's finished expanding and curing. Are there any epoxies that come in
black? Clear would be perfect, of course, but might be a bit much to
ask in something that'll stick to both wood and glass.

Getting back to specifics, there's only a tiny point of stem left
attached to the bowl of the wine glass, so I can't send the glass stem
down a hole in the new wooden stem; if I could, there'd be plenty of
glue surface without worrying about how the glue looks.

So my plan is to flare the stem at the top to meet the bottom of the
bowl, and let the center of the stem be a bit hollowed so there's a
little chamber where the glue can grip both the wood and the glass.

It's a cheap wine glass, actually, so it's not a huge deal; I was just
thinking it would be a fun little project. And make my mom's friend
who broke the glass not feel as bad.

Thanks in advance; any ideas are welcome! I don't think I've ever
posted here before, but I love dipping in now and then to see what's
going on.

I've had good luck attaching wood to glass with clear silicone sealant.

Kevin

In article ,
jdrum00 says...

So, what would y'all use to fasten clear glass to turned wood? I'm
wanting to replace a broken wine glass stem with a turned base, and
realized that whatever I use to stick the two together will be visible
through the bottom of the glass!

I'm thinking Gorilla Glue is right out; it looks like a dead slug when
it's finished expanding and curing. Are there any epoxies that come in
black? Clear would be perfect, of course, but might be a bit much to
ask in something that'll stick to both wood and glass.

Getting back to specifics, there's only a tiny point of stem left
attached to the bowl of the wine glass, so I can't send the glass stem
down a hole in the new wooden stem; if I could, there'd be plenty of
glue surface without worrying about how the glue looks.

So my plan is to flare the stem at the top to meet the bottom of the
bowl, and let the center of the stem be a bit hollowed so there's a
little chamber where the glue can grip both the wood and the glass.

It's a cheap wine glass, actually, so it's not a huge deal; I was just
thinking it would be a fun little project. And make my mom's friend
who broke the glass not feel as bad.

Thanks in advance; any ideas are welcome! I don't think I've ever
posted here before, but I love dipping in now and then to see what's
going on.

jdrum00 wrote:

Are there any epoxies that come in black?

No, but you can dye epoxy. I've used the Mixol brand of dyes with
good success.

On Thu, 16 Oct 2008 13:10:51 -0700 (PDT), jdrum00
wrote:

Craft Supplies recommends this glass adhesive:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st...adhesive?Args=
or
http://tinyurl.com/5ov8ls

(this info was obtained by clicking on the link on their goblet kits)

I haven't tried it yet, but a few folks here have said that copier/laser printer
toner mixed with epoxy is a durable black adhesive or filler...

CA glue is also available in flexible black now..


So, what would y'all use to fasten clear glass to turned wood? I'm
wanting to replace a broken wine glass stem with a turned base, and
realized that whatever I use to stick the two together will be visible
through the bottom of the glass!

I'm thinking Gorilla Glue is right out; it looks like a dead slug when
it's finished expanding and curing. Are there any epoxies that come in
black? Clear would be perfect, of course, but might be a bit much to
ask in something that'll stick to both wood and glass.

Getting back to specifics, there's only a tiny point of stem left
attached to the bowl of the wine glass, so I can't send the glass stem
down a hole in the new wooden stem; if I could, there'd be plenty of
glue surface without worrying about how the glue looks.

So my plan is to flare the stem at the top to meet the bottom of the
bowl, and let the center of the stem be a bit hollowed so there's a
little chamber where the glue can grip both the wood and the glass.

It's a cheap wine glass, actually, so it's not a huge deal; I was just
thinking it would be a fun little project. And make my mom's friend
who broke the glass not feel as bad.

Thanks in advance; any ideas are welcome! I don't think I've ever
posted here before, but I love dipping in now and then to see what's
going on.


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Wow; you guys are great. That's three excellent avenues to check out
already. I'm not sure why I didn't Google for such a thing in the
first place; even as a member of the Internet Generation, I sometimes
have trouble believing that what I want isn't really all that
obscure.... Thanks, and I'll let you know what I end up doing!

On Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:33:21 -0700 (PDT), jdrum00
wrote:

Wow; you guys are great. That's three excellent avenues to check out
already. I'm not sure why I didn't Google for such a thing in the
first place; even as a member of the Internet Generation, I sometimes
have trouble believing that what I want isn't really all that
obscure.... Thanks, and I'll let you know what I end up doing!

I use Google a lot, but what I like about these groups is you get "been there,
done that" info from a friendly source that's not trying to sell you something..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Oct 16, 4:10*pm, jdrum00 wrote:
So, what would y'all use to fasten clear glass to turned wood? I'm
wanting to replace a broken wine glass stem with a turned base, and
realized that whatever I use to stick the two together will be visible
through the bottom of the glass!

I'm thinking Gorilla Glue is right out; it looks like a dead slug when
it's finished expanding and curing. Are there any epoxies that come in
black? Clear would be perfect, of course, but might be a bit much to
ask in something that'll stick to both wood and glass.

Getting back to specifics, there's only a tiny point of stem left
attached to the bowl of the wine glass, so I can't send the glass stem
down a hole in the new wooden stem; if I could, there'd be plenty of
glue surface without worrying about how the glue looks.

So my plan is to flare the stem at the top to meet the bottom of the
bowl, and let the center of the stem be a bit hollowed so there's a
little chamber where the glue can grip both the wood and the glass.

It's a cheap wine glass, actually, so it's not a huge deal; I was just
thinking it would be a fun little project. And make my mom's friend
who broke the glass not feel as bad.

Thanks in advance; any ideas are welcome! I don't think I've ever
posted here before, but I love dipping in now and then to see what's
going on.

I use clear rtv silicone sealant to glue glass top goblets to wooden
stems. Works great and you can't see the sealant.
You just need to be careful and not use too much because it's
difficult to get the sealant off of the glass. I'm sure something will
take it off but it's easier not to use too much to begin with. It
takes 24 hours to cure. It sticks to the glass much better than to the
wood and you can pull it apart and all the sealant will be on the
glass. It does however make a joint that is more than adequate.
Bob
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com

I use silicon sealant to glue tiles to wood to make coasters. I have found
that if you use white spirit (turps) to clean up while the sealant is still
wet it makes a very good job. I'm sure it will work just as well on glass
but I have not tried it.

Tom

I use clear rtv silicone sealant to glue glass top goblets to wooden
stems. Works great and you can't see the sealant.
You just need to be careful and not use too much because it's
difficult to get the sealant off of the glass. I'm sure something will
take it off but it's easier not to use too much to begin with. It
takes 24 hours to cure. It sticks to the glass much better than to the
wood and you can pull it apart and all the sealant will be on the
glass. It does however make a joint that is more than adequate.
Bob
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com

On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 11:31:03 +0100, "Tom Dougall"
wrote:

I use silicon sealant to glue tiles to wood to make coasters. I have found
that if you use white spirit (turps) to clean up while the sealant is still
wet it makes a very good job. I'm sure it will work just as well on glass
but I have not tried it.

Tom

I use clear rtv silicone sealant to glue glass top goblets to wooden
stems. Works great and you can't see the sealant.
You just need to be careful and not use too much because it's
difficult to get the sealant off of the glass. I'm sure something will
take it off but it's easier not to use too much to begin with. It
takes 24 hours to cure. It sticks to the glass much better than to the
wood and you can pull it apart and all the sealant will be on the
glass. It does however make a joint that is more than adequate.
Bob
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com


Years ago I bought a tube of RTV at Lowe's. I can't seem to find it
in any stores now, all I can find is silicone cement from GE which
does not have much gluing strength. Where can I get RTV?

On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 06:13:32 -0700, Ray wrote:
snip
Years ago I bought a tube of RTV at Lowe's. I can't seem to find it
in any stores now, all I can find is silicone cement from GE which
does not have much gluing strength. Where can I get RTV?

Last time I needed some, A local auto supply store had a pretty good
assortment... Clear, red, blue..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Ray wrote:
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 11:31:03 +0100, "Tom Dougall"
wrote:

I use silicon sealant to glue tiles to wood to make coasters. I have found
that if you use white spirit (turps) to clean up while the sealant is still
wet it makes a very good job. I'm sure it will work just as well on glass
but I have not tried it.

Tom

I use clear rtv silicone sealant to glue glass top goblets to wooden
stems. Works great and you can't see the sealant.
You just need to be careful and not use too much because it's
difficult to get the sealant off of the glass. I'm sure something will
take it off but it's easier not to use too much to begin with. It
takes 24 hours to cure. It sticks to the glass much better than to the
wood and you can pull it apart and all the sealant will be on the
glass. It does however make a joint that is more than adequate.
Bob
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com


Years ago I bought a tube of RTV at Lowe's. I can't seem to find it
in any stores now, all I can find is silicone cement from GE which
does not have much gluing strength. Where can I get RTV?

Though not exactly the same as the older RTV, it is Currently known and
sold as Silicone Caulking... Check in the building/paint section at
Lowes or any other big box store. Not much difference between the old
items branded RTV and the Silicone Sealants found today.

(RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing and actually refers to a
class of adhesives and sealants, not a single product.)

--Rick

In message , mac davis
writes
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 06:13:32 -0700, Ray wrote:
snip
Years ago I bought a tube of RTV at Lowe's. I can't seem to find it
in any stores now, all I can find is silicone cement from GE which
does not have much gluing strength. Where can I get RTV?

Last time I needed some, A local auto supply store had a pretty good
assortment... Clear, red, blue..


mac

RTV - Room Temperature Vulcanising

Most hardware stores supply big tubes of Constructions type Silicone
Sealers, they are all fairly similar, but make sure it says Silicon,
though there are Those that slump and those that don't Clear Bathroom
sealer will normally handle temperatures into the hundreds of degrees,
and works as an engine gasket.

Dow Corning was a good reference point for what is out there in the past

One thing to consider when gluing anything to glass is that you may need
an etching solution to provide a good key to the glass

Unless there is a good reason not to, a colour loaded epoxy may serve
just as well if the thickness is not too great

--
John

On Oct 20, 9:54*am, John wrote:
In message , mac davis
writesOn Sun, 19 Oct 2008 06:13:32 -0700, Ray wrote:
snip
Years ago I bought a tube of RTV at Lowe's. *I can't seem to find it
in any stores now, all I can find is silicone cement from GE which
does not have much gluing strength. *Where can I get RTV?

Last time I needed some, A local auto supply store had a pretty good
assortment... Clear, red, blue..

mac

RTV - Room Temperature Vulcanising

Most hardware stores supply big tubes of Constructions type Silicone
Sealers, they are all fairly similar, but make sure it says Silicon,
though there are Those that slump and those that don't Clear Bathroom
sealer will normally handle temperatures into the hundreds of degrees,
and works as an engine gasket.

Dow Corning was a good reference point for what is out there in the past

One thing to consider when gluing anything to glass is that you may need
an etching solution to provide a good key to the glass

Unless there is a good reason not to, *a colour loaded epoxy may serve
just as well if the thickness is not too great

--
John

Try using a product called Phenoseal i have not tried it for wood and
glass, but have used it in just about every other application. It's
great stuff. Home depot and Ace hardware both carry it. Ace carries it
in colors.

-Mike