Hi Group, help please!

I want to build a glass-walled cube. One side removable/hinged.
I will be using plate glass (6mm approx)
The cube is to be 2 ft. square.
So components are six pieces of plate glass each one 2ft x 2ft.
Now, the problem is how to 'stick' the joints.
I would prefer not to use any bracket supports on the joints - just 'glue'.
Can it be done?
What type of joint to make? (DIY of course - no melting of glass!!)

Dee

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dee"
wrote:

Hi Group, help please!

You didn't Google did you ? Thread a couple of months ago on
"Glueing Glass"

I want to build a glass-walled cube. One side removable/hinged.
I will be using plate glass (6mm approx)

"Plate" glass isn't used these days, and you wouldn't like the price
anyway. Modern glass is all float glass. You need a couple of square
metres, which will be pretty cheap, even with the edges polished. If
you want it tempered, then that costs more and takes longer, but it's
still affordable.

It is hard to find a glass supplier though. Most no longer cut glass,
they just sell things from factories. Many aren't interested in
anything other than standard windows, or profitable commercial work.
You'll be doing a lot of phoning before you find a good one (I'd
recommend Roman Glass in Bristol)

The cube is to be 2 ft. square.

So components are six pieces of plate glass each one 2ft x 2ft.

If you make them all exactly the same size, then it's hard to
assemble. Adjust the sizes to compensate for the overlaps

Now, the problem is how to 'stick' the joints.

Loctite 358

You'll also need hinges (stock items from a good supplier, like Isac
Lord) They can be either glued or drilled. Get the glass supplier to
drill the glass before they polish the edges.

(DIY of course - no melting of glass!!)

That _is_ DIY. Last weekend I was plasma-cutting it.

"Dee" wrote in message
...
Hi Group, help please!

I want to build a glass-walled cube. One side removable/hinged.
I will be using plate glass (6mm approx)
The cube is to be 2 ft. square.
So components are six pieces of plate glass each one 2ft x 2ft.
Now, the problem is how to 'stick' the joints.
I would prefer not to use any bracket supports on the joints - just
'glue'.
Can it be done?
What type of joint to make? (DIY of course - no melting of glass!!)

I've seen fish tanks made using transparent silicone sealant to stick the
bits together.

Colin Bignell

"Dee" wrote in message
...
Hi Group, help please!

I want to build a glass-walled cube. One side removable/hinged.
I will be using plate glass (6mm approx)
The cube is to be 2 ft. square.

Who's fitting inside ?

nightjar nightjar@ wrote:
"Dee" wrote in message
...

Hi Group, help please!

I want to build a glass-walled cube. One side removable/hinged.
I will be using plate glass (6mm approx)
The cube is to be 2 ft. square.
So components are six pieces of plate glass each one 2ft x 2ft.
Now, the problem is how to 'stick' the joints.
I would prefer not to use any bracket supports on the joints - just
'glue'.
Can it be done?
What type of joint to make? (DIY of course - no melting of glass!!)


I've seen fish tanks made using transparent silicone sealant to stick the
bits together.

Colin Bignell



Nearly all fish tanks are made like that now (well certainly ones that
you get in the home). The joints are good enough to hold in 200kg of
water so I imagine they will be strong enough for whatever you need.

The sealant used in fish tanks has to be free of fungicides and able to
handle constant submersion but I don't think there is any difference
(glueing ability wise) between it and the stuff you can get in any DIY
shed for a couple of pounds.

Graham

details snipped

Thanks Folks,

The resident will be a snake. So no water and no weight problem.
Glazier still insists I use plate glass.
It will be in a public area.
So I guess just buy the right sizes (overlap reminder well taken Andy).
Get holes drilled for the hinged side.
Get that Loctite 358 (thanks Andy) stuff and go for it.

Dee

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dee"
wrote:

The resident will be a snake.

In that case, use silicone. Easier to find and cheaper than the UV
cure stuff, and you'll never notice the fillet amongst the snake
bedding. I thought you were making furniture.

2' cube sounds pretty small though - what's the snake ?

So no water and no weight problem.

Don't be so sure about "no weight". I've seen a couple of vivaria
where people have built them light "because they weren't full of
water", then cracked them by putting in a big basking rock.

Glazier still insists I use plate glass.

He probably means tempered glass.

It will be in a public area.

In that case you probably do want tempered glass. At home I wouldn't
bother. For a big or venomous snake, use laminated glass. I know a
reticulated python (now a handbag, evil little *******) that used to
break the front panel out of its tank when it fancied a walk.

So I guess just buy the right sizes

Get a sheet of 6mm MDF first and make a prototype. MDF is cheaper and
easier to cut than glass.

Get holes drilled for the hinged side.

You'll also want some ventilation. As you want some degree of radiant
heat to permit basking, then there's a problem that an unventilated
box will be a snake baker (even rattlesnakes get heatstroke, if they
can't hide). I'd think about gluing glass strips to the top edge and
spacing the lid up on it.
--
Smert' spamionam

"Dee" wrote in message
...
details snipped

Thanks Folks,

The resident will be a snake. So no water and no weight problem.
Glazier still insists I use plate glass.
It will be in a public area.

Then I would recommend laminated glass, which will much better protect the
snake from the public.

Colin Bignell

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "nightjar"
wrote:

Then I would recommend laminated glass, which will much better protect the
snake from the public.

And a "No Parseltongues" sign ?

In message , Andy Dingley
writes
It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dee"
wrote:

Hi Group, help please!

You didn't Google did you ? Thread a couple of months ago on
"Glueing Glass"

I want to build a glass-walled cube. One side removable/hinged.
I will be using plate glass (6mm approx)

"Plate" glass isn't used these days, and you wouldn't like the price
anyway. Modern glass is all float glass. You need a couple of square
metres, which will be pretty cheap, even with the edges polished. If
you want it tempered, then that costs more and takes longer, but it's
still affordable.

It is hard to find a glass supplier though. Most no longer cut glass,
they just sell things from factories. Many aren't interested in
anything other than standard windows, or profitable commercial work.

Not sure that's quite true,

I have one just round the corner, one on my way to work and one on my
estate at work.

There are possibly more, but that's three I know about within 10 minutes
drive from my chez nous

--
geoff

In message , nightjar
writes

"Dee" wrote in message
...
Hi Group, help please!

I want to build a glass-walled cube. One side removable/hinged.
I will be using plate glass (6mm approx)
The cube is to be 2 ft. square.
So components are six pieces of plate glass each one 2ft x 2ft.
Now, the problem is how to 'stick' the joints.
I would prefer not to use any bracket supports on the joints - just
'glue'.
Can it be done?
What type of joint to make? (DIY of course - no melting of glass!!)

I've seen fish tanks made using transparent silicone sealant to stick the
bits together.

I've built quite a few. One is 4' x 18" x 18" which is holding a fair
weight of water.

--
geoff

nightjar nightjar@ wrote:

"Dee" wrote in message
...

Hi Group, help please!

I want to build a glass-walled cube. One side removable/hinged.
I will be using plate glass (6mm approx)
The cube is to be 2 ft. square.
So components are six pieces of plate glass each one 2ft x 2ft.
Now, the problem is how to 'stick' the joints.
I would prefer not to use any bracket supports on the joints - just
'glue'.
Can it be done?
What type of joint to make? (DIY of course - no melting of glass!!)


I've seen fish tanks made using transparent silicone sealant to stick the
bits together.


Ive seen bloody great glass walls in ditzy reception areas stuck the
same way too.

Epoxy works, but is ugly.

Colin Bignell

In message , Dee
writes
details snipped

Thanks Folks,

The resident will be a snake. So no water and no weight problem.
Glazier still insists I use plate glass.
It will be in a public area.
So I guess just buy the right sizes (overlap reminder well taken Andy).

For a vivarium or whatever it's called

Here's how I would do it

Get your base to be the size you require
height will be height of long sides + thickness of base (of course)
end panels cut to height -base thickness x width - (2 x thickness of
long sides

Work out how you're going to get cables in for lighting and heating, how
you're going to ventilate the thing etc

Get the exposed top four surfaces ground or "desharpened" in some way
(you don't want to cut yourself when reaching in

Don't use Locktite, use clear silicone, but make sure it's silicone, not
cheapo sealant, if in doubt, you can get it from RS or from a pet shop
which does aquarium stuff. The reasoning behind this is a) the cut edge
of the glass isn't necessarily truly flat and the silicone will take up
any unevenness and b) silicone gives you a bit of time to get everything
right before it starts setting

Work out how you're going to hold it together while it's setting. You
need to hold it tightly in position for 24 hours. I use string and and
pieces of wood - twisting the string to tighten it with the piece of
wood to keep it taut as commonly used. You can also use cramps, but
don't forget to insulate it from the glass with some cardboard or
something so you don't crack the glass

Get an assistant for the next bit - not essential, but very advisable

put string or whatever under the base close to the edges

put a 3-4 mm bead of silicone all around the top edge of the base and
one edge of a side panel (the one which will mate with the long panel),
place the long panel and the one end panel on the base in succession
(this gives you a rigid enough structure to work from). Placing the
other two panels is just handle turning.

Tighten the string or whatever compression means you intend to use

leave for 24 hours, remove tensioners

remove the excess silicone with a stanley blade

assemble the top
I would advise using something like foam padding between the body and
the top, just in case you accidentally slam the top down and shatter the
lid

Job done

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Dee
writes
details snipped

Thanks Folks,

The resident will be a snake. So no water and no weight problem.
Glazier still insists I use plate glass.
It will be in a public area.
So I guess just buy the right sizes (overlap reminder well taken Andy).

For a vivarium or whatever it's called

Here's how I would do it

Get your base to be the size you require
height will be height of long sides + thickness of base (of course)
end panels cut to height -base thickness x width - (2 x thickness of long
sides

Work out how you're going to get cables in for lighting and heating, how
you're going to ventilate the thing etc

Get the exposed top four surfaces ground or "desharpened" in some way (you
don't want to cut yourself when reaching in

Don't use Locktite, use clear silicone, but make sure it's silicone, not
cheapo sealant, if in doubt, you can get it from RS or from a pet shop
which does aquarium stuff. The reasoning behind this is a) the cut edge of
the glass isn't necessarily truly flat and the silicone will take up any
unevenness and b) silicone gives you a bit of time to get everything right
before it starts setting

Work out how you're going to hold it together while it's setting. You need
to hold it tightly in position for 24 hours. I use string and and pieces
of wood - twisting the string to tighten it with the piece of wood to keep
it taut as commonly used. You can also use cramps, but don't forget to
insulate it from the glass with some cardboard or something so you don't
crack the glass

Get an assistant for the next bit - not essential, but very advisable

put string or whatever under the base close to the edges

put a 3-4 mm bead of silicone all around the top edge of the base and one
edge of a side panel (the one which will mate with the long panel), place
the long panel and the one end panel on the base in succession (this gives
you a rigid enough structure to work from). Placing the other two panels
is just handle turning.

Tighten the string or whatever compression means you intend to use

leave for 24 hours, remove tensioners

remove the excess silicone with a stanley blade

assemble the top
I would advise using something like foam padding between the body and the
top, just in case you accidentally slam the top down and shatter the lid

Job done

--
geoff

Thanks Geoff, they are just great instructions. Exactly what I need.

One question please. You say silicone - not sealant?
A quick look today in the DIY store shows rows of 'silicone sealant'.
Costs around £3-5. Are we talking about something else?
Do you know any brand names I can look for?

Dee

In message , Dee
writes

Thanks Geoff, they are just great instructions. Exactly what I need.

One question please. You say silicone - not sealant?
A quick look today in the DIY store shows rows of 'silicone sealant'.
Costs around £3-5. Are we talking about something else?
Do you know any brand names I can look for?

I mean silicone sealant

Well, I use silicone sealant from RS - mainly because I know that it's
decent quality and will hold 1/3rd of a ton of water

For your requirements, I would expect that regular silicone sealant from
a shed will do, just make sure that it's silicone and not acrylic

--
geoff

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Dee"
wrote:

You say silicone - not sealant?

Silicone is what it's made out of, sealant is what it does. Not all
sealants are silicones.

For aquaria, you want a silicone that's happy when submerged long-term
and doesn't leach out toxic nastiness. For a snake terrarium it's not
so important.

Costs around £3-5.

Cheaper if you don't buy from a shed - try Screwfix, or several others
(about £2).

raden wrote:
In message , Dee
writes


Thanks Geoff, they are just great instructions. Exactly what I need.

One question please. You say silicone - not sealant?
A quick look today in the DIY store shows rows of 'silicone sealant'.
Costs around £3-5. Are we talking about something else?
Do you know any brand names I can look for?

I mean silicone sealant

Well, I use silicone sealant from RS - mainly because I know that it's
decent quality and will hold 1/3rd of a ton of water


I presume that you are therefore using the sealant for aquaria in which
case could you tell me exactly which one you are using. I am loathed to
pay the extortionate rates they ask for "real" fish tank sealant when
you can buy the exact same stuff for probably a 1/4 the price from RS.

For your requirements, I would expect that regular silicone sealant from
a shed will do, just make sure that it's silicone and not acrylic

In message
"Dee" wrote:


[snip]


One question please. You say silicone - not sealant?
A quick look today in the DIY store shows rows of 'silicone sealant'.
Costs around £3-5. Are we talking about something else?
Do you know any brand names I can look for?


You should really be looking for a 'structural' silicone sealer.
Generally, these are silicone acetate, and smell vinegary whilst
uncured. Dow Corning 797 is excellent, but has a long cure time (about
7 days) Dow Corning 791 would probably be ok for this application.

Hope this helps,

--
Jim White
Wimbledon London England

In message , doozer
writes
raden wrote:
In message , Dee
writes


Thanks Geoff, they are just great instructions. Exactly what I need.

One question please. You say silicone - not sealant?
A quick look today in the DIY store shows rows of 'silicone sealant'.
Costs around £3-5. Are we talking about something else?
Do you know any brand names I can look for?

I mean silicone sealant
Well, I use silicone sealant from RS - mainly because I know that
it's decent quality and will hold 1/3rd of a ton of water


I presume that you are therefore using the sealant for aquaria in which
case could you tell me exactly which one you are using. I am loathed to
pay the extortionate rates they ask for "real" fish tank sealant when
you can buy the exact same stuff for probably a 1/4 the price from RS.

RS part no. 555-588

But you will need an account or a trade counter nearby

--
geoff

It was somewhere outside Barstow when raden wrote:

But you will need an account or a trade counter nearby

How many RS trade counters will still deal with you if you don't have
(or can borrow) a DPC ? I know ours doesn't - something to do with
local planning rules and the fact they can't be a "retail" operation
on that site.

On Sun, 6 Mar 2005 00:42:22 UTC, Andy Dingley
wrote:

It was somewhere outside Barstow when raden wrote:

But you will need an account or a trade counter nearby

How many RS trade counters will still deal with you if you don't have
(or can borrow) a DPC ? I know ours doesn't - something to do with
local planning rules and the fact they can't be a "retail" operation
on that site.

Pretty well anyone can buy from RS via their website now.
--
Bob Eager
begin a new life...dump Windows!

In message , Andy Dingley
writes
It was somewhere outside Barstow when raden wrote:

But you will need an account or a trade counter nearby

How many RS trade counters will still deal with you if you don't have
(or can borrow) a DPC ? I know ours doesn't - something to do with
local planning rules and the fact they can't be a "retail" operation
on that site.


I think the Watford one does

--
geoff