The project for this week, is replacing a section of app.90 year old soil
pipe, which has developed a split along its length.
We intend to replace this section with plastic pipe.
Any tips, warnings, etc on cutting and removal of the offending bit?
It's in a particularly difficult location, in a corner next to the outside
wall, with very little space behind it.

Sheila

Exactly what i did am doing last weekend today! Mine was attached to a
toilet, that is being replaced, may not be relv or suitable in your
postition, but i found cutting as much aroun the pipe as possible using an
angle grinder then with fairly big hammer whacked the section in the middle
and it simply broke, thereby allowing me to cut the bit at the back, when i
say simply i dont mean simply it does take a few (alot) of hits with the
hammer (wear eye protection) If your just replacing a section and its
visible consider using cast iron, appar, its not expensive and easy to use,
also you need to make sure there is sufficient support for the pipe above if
your putting a section in as plastic wont support the weight of cast iron,
(a tiny section i cut out weighed a tonn)
Have fun
Olly

S Viemeister wrote:
The project for this week, is replacing a section of app.90 year old
soil
pipe, which has developed a split along its length.
We intend to replace this section with plastic pipe.
Any tips, warnings, etc on cutting and removal of the offending bit?
It's in a particularly difficult location, in a corner next to the
outside
wall, with very little space behind it.

Sheila

Wear mouth protection!!! Youre cutting a pipe lined with congealed ****
for 90 years. **** hitting the fan at 11,000 rpm has to be about the
worst job of all. Very glad I've never done it

NT

wrote:

Wear mouth protection!!! Youre cutting a pipe lined with congealed ****
for 90 years. **** hitting the fan at 11,000 rpm has to be about the
worst job of all. Very glad I've never done it

Full face protection is on the list!
It's not something either one of us is looking forward to. Just _finding_
the leak was unpleasant enough.

Sheila

Oh you soon learn to get blaazay (I opted for the sounds like spelling method since I was what they siad didn't exist when I was at school, dislexic) about that brown lubricant that helps you assemble your push fit joints.

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 06:16:21 -0800, bigcat wrote:

S Viemeister wrote:
The project for this week, is replacing a section of app.90 year old
soil
pipe, which has developed a split along its length.
We intend to replace this section with plastic pipe.
Any tips, warnings, etc on cutting and removal of the offending bit?
It's in a particularly difficult location, in a corner next to the
outside
wall, with very little space behind it.

Sheila

Wear mouth protection!!! Youre cutting a pipe lined with congealed ****
for 90 years. **** hitting the fan at 11,000 rpm has to be about the
worst job of all. Very glad I've never done it

In which case you'd know it's not as bad as all that.
The inside of the pipe tends to be rusty rather than ****ty.

The weight of the sections of CI pipe whilst not a problem on the ground
are a major hazard when several metre up a ladder.

Start at the top and make sure each section you remove is well supported
with a top rope. Aim to cut out about 1m at a go.

A diamond bladed angle grinder is useful and make much less CI dust and
sparks.







--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

A diamond bladed angle grinder is useful and make much less CI dust
and
sparks.

having used diamond to cut ferrous, I found it almost useless. I was
told the diamonds react with the iron and dissolve into it, making
diamond discs ineffective on iron and steel. And in fact, hardening the
steel a bit in the process.

NT

The message .com
from contains these words:

A diamond bladed angle grinder is useful and make much less CI dust
and
sparks.

having used diamond to cut ferrous, I found it almost useless. I was
told the diamonds react with the iron and dissolve into it, making
diamond discs ineffective on iron and steel. And in fact, hardening the
steel a bit in the process.

That sounds a bit unlikely given the quench from red heat needed to
harden carbon steel but ISTR cast iron is already stuffed full of carbon
so if diamond did dissolve in it it shouldn't make any difference.

--
Roger

bigcat wrote:
S Viemeister wrote:
The project for this week, is replacing a section of app.90 year
old
soil pipe, which has developed a split along its length.
We intend to replace this section with plastic pipe.
Any tips, warnings, etc on cutting and removal of the offending
bit?
It's in a particularly difficult location, in a corner next to the
outside
wall, with very little space behind it.

Wear mouth protection!!! Youre cutting a pipe lined with congealed
****
for 90 years. **** hitting the fan at 11,000 rpm has to be about the
worst job of all. Very glad I've never done it

I've done it, not that bad really. Definitely wore goggles and a
nose/mouth mask though :-)

The method is as per other poosters, as far around the pipe as you can
get, then a good clout with a club hammer to break the final join.

Cheers

Paul.

Roger wrote:
The message .com
from contains these words:

A diamond bladed angle grinder is useful and make much less CI
dust
and
sparks.

having used diamond to cut ferrous, I found it almost useless. I
was
told the diamonds react with the iron and dissolve into it, making
diamond discs ineffective on iron and steel. And in fact, hardening
the
steel a bit in the process.

That sounds a bit unlikely given the quench from red heat needed to
harden carbon steel

the sparks off an angle grinding blade are more than red hot.


but ISTR cast iron is already stuffed full of carbon
so if diamond did dissolve in it it shouldn't make any difference.

To the iron, no, but to the blade it makes it all but useless. It turns
it from a diamond cutter to a slotted steel washer. When I went from
diamond to cheap grit the cut speed went up over 10x - that was on HSS,
not cast, but I expect the principle would be the same.


NT

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 18:54:56 -0800, bigcat wrote:

A diamond bladed angle grinder is useful and make much less CI dust
and
sparks.

having used diamond to cut ferrous, I found it almost useless. I was
told the diamonds react with the iron and dissolve into it, making
diamond discs ineffective on iron and steel. And in fact, hardening the
steel a bit in the process.

I have a diamond disc (Screwfix 71994) which is going strong after almost
a year say one job (some big some small per week average). I know it cuts
through CI. If there is something better let me know but I know it is a
lot better than ordinary resin/abrasive cutting discs.



--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html

Ed Sirett wrote:
On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 18:54:56 -0800, bigcat wrote:

A diamond bladed angle grinder is useful and make much less CI
dust
and
sparks.

having used diamond to cut ferrous, I found it almost useless. I
was
told the diamonds react with the iron and dissolve into it, making
diamond discs ineffective on iron and steel. And in fact, hardening
the
steel a bit in the process.

I have a diamond disc (Screwfix 71994) which is going strong after
almost
a year say one job (some big some small per week average). I know it
cuts
through CI. If there is something better let me know but I know it is
a
lot better than ordinary resin/abrasive cutting discs.

You got me wondering now. I was using a toolstation diamond disc to cut
hss, and it was hopeless. Switched to screwfix cheap grit disc, that
worked no prob. Thats really all I know... maybe I should look at that
scrwefix blade. Toolstation ones are a lot cheaper, and work A1 on
concrete. Or perhaps its the CI vs HSS difference? No idea.


NT

wrote:
Ed Sirett wrote:

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 18:54:56 -0800, bigcat wrote:


A diamond bladed angle grinder is useful and make much less CI

dust

and

sparks.

having used diamond to cut ferrous, I found it almost useless. I

was

told the diamonds react with the iron and dissolve into it, making
diamond discs ineffective on iron and steel. And in fact, hardening

the

steel a bit in the process.


I have a diamond disc (Screwfix 71994) which is going strong after

almost

a year say one job (some big some small per week average). I know it

cuts

through CI. If there is something better let me know but I know it is

a

lot better than ordinary resin/abrasive cutting discs.


You got me wondering now. I was using a toolstation diamond disc to cut
hss, and it was hopeless. Switched to screwfix cheap grit disc, that
worked no prob. Thats really all I know... maybe I should look at that
scrwefix blade. Toolstation ones are a lot cheaper, and work A1 on
concrete. Or perhaps its the CI vs HSS difference? No idea.

I'd guess the latter: HSS is what you make tools out of for cutting
metals including steel, CI's what shatters if you whack it :-)

wrote:
bigcat wrote:

S Viemeister wrote:

The project for this week, is replacing a section of app.90 year

old

soil pipe, which has developed a split along its length.
We intend to replace this section with plastic pipe.
Any tips, warnings, etc on cutting and removal of the offending

bit?

It's in a particularly difficult location, in a corner next to the

outside

wall, with very little space behind it.

Wear mouth protection!!! Youre cutting a pipe lined with congealed

****

for 90 years. **** hitting the fan at 11,000 rpm has to be about the
worst job of all. Very glad I've never done it


I've done it, not that bad really. Definitely wore goggles and a
nose/mouth mask though :-)

The method is as per other poosters, as far around the pipe as you can
get, then a good clout with a club hammer to break the final join.

I did it by cutting as far round as possible at 2 positions about a foot
apart, then lengthways to join the ends of the upper & lower cuts. Then
you can take a section out and get the grinder in to cut the rest of the
way through to the back.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Ed Sirett wrote:
On Sun, 27 Feb 2005 18:54:56 -0800, bigcat wrote:

A diamond bladed angle grinder is useful and make much less CI
dust and sparks.

having used diamond to cut ferrous, I found it almost useless. I
was
told the diamonds react with the iron and dissolve into it, making
diamond discs ineffective on iron and steel. And in fact,
hardening
the
steel a bit in the process.

I have a diamond disc (Screwfix 71994) which is going strong after
almost
a year say one job (some big some small per week average). I know it
cuts
through CI. If there is something better let me know but I know it
is
a
lot better than ordinary resin/abrasive cutting discs.

You got me wondering now. I was using a toolstation diamond disc to
cut
hss, and it was hopeless. Switched to screwfix cheap grit disc, that
worked no prob. Thats really all I know... maybe I should look at that
scrwefix blade. Toolstation ones are a lot cheaper, and work A1 on
concrete. Or perhaps its the CI vs HSS difference? No idea.

There are diamond discs and diamond discs. I have seen them here in
France for about 6 euro, haven't tried those but we had a couple of
different cheap ones. Almost useless, you would be better off with
ordinary stone/metal cutting disks. We also have a 80 euro disk which we
have had for ages and is still very good. Not sure when exactly my
husband uses it and when he chooses the ordinary ones though, sorry.

--
Holly, in France.
Holiday home in the Dordogne,
website: http://la-plaine.chez.tiscali.fr

S Viemeister wrote:

The project for this week, is replacing a section of app.90 year old soil
pipe, which has developed a split along its length.

We've finally managed to remove the split pipe, using a rented snapper and
cutting above the hub. The bottom of the pipe, though, was not only split
for most of its length, but seriously corroded, so it crushed, rather than
snapping (it was VERY thin, and resembled flaky pastry in texture)- Himself
finished the cut with a reciprocating saw. We had hoped to leave a long
enough stub, to simply splice-in a piece of plastic pipe, using a collar
and clamps. Unfortunately, there isn't enough intact pipe left above the
hub.
So, we'll need to remove the lead and oakum from said hub, and insert the
plastic in that.

Any tips on lead removal which don't involve the use of a torch?

Sheila

S Viemeister wrote:
S Viemeister wrote:

The project for this week, is replacing a section of app.90 year old soil
pipe, which has developed a split along its length.


We've finally managed to remove the split pipe, using a rented snapper and
cutting above the hub. The bottom of the pipe, though, was not only split
for most of its length, but seriously corroded, so it crushed, rather than
snapping (it was VERY thin, and resembled flaky pastry in texture)- Himself
finished the cut with a reciprocating saw. We had hoped to leave a long
enough stub, to simply splice-in a piece of plastic pipe, using a collar
and clamps. Unfortunately, there isn't enough intact pipe left above the
hub.
So, we'll need to remove the lead and oakum from said hub, and insert the
plastic in that.

Any tips on lead removal which don't involve the use of a torch?

Omigawd! Sure I did it myself long ago, I think I drilled out as much
lead as posible and pried out the rest with a gash[1] screwdriver or
whatever came to hand


[1] it was afterwards

John Stumbles wrote:

Omigawd! Sure I did it myself long ago, I think I drilled out as much
lead as posible and pried out the rest with a gash[1] screwdriver or
whatever came to hand

That's what we're in the process of doing right now - taking turns, because
it's in a very cramped corner, largely underneath the kitchen counter. And
we're tall people. It'll be my turn to crawl in there in a few minutes.
How did you actually get the spigot end loosened from the hub? This one
seems quite unwilling to leave the spot it's been in since 1912.

Sheila

S Viemeister wrote:
John Stumbles wrote:

Omigawd! Sure I did it myself long ago, I think I drilled out as much
lead as posible and pried out the rest with a gash[1] screwdriver or
whatever came to hand


That's what we're in the process of doing right now - taking turns, because
it's in a very cramped corner, largely underneath the kitchen counter. And
we're tall people. It'll be my turn to crawl in there in a few minutes.
How did you actually get the spigot end loosened from the hub? This one
seems quite unwilling to leave the spot it's been in since 1912.

brute force & pig ignorance I guess - it was a long time ago and I've
forgotten the gory details (you know, like mothers forget what
childbirth was really like? :-)

John Stumbles wrote:

S Viemeister wrote:
John Stumbles wrote:

Omigawd! Sure I did it myself long ago, I think I drilled out as much
lead as posible and pried out the rest with a gash[1] screwdriver or
whatever came to hand


That's what we're in the process of doing right now - taking turns, because
it's in a very cramped corner, largely underneath the kitchen counter. And
we're tall people. It'll be my turn to crawl in there in a few minutes.
How did you actually get the spigot end loosened from the hub? This one
seems quite unwilling to leave the spot it's been in since 1912.

brute force & pig ignorance I guess - it was a long time ago and I've
forgotten the gory details (you know, like mothers forget what
childbirth was really like? :-)

The spigot and the hub seem to have rusted together - it's nearly
impossible to tell where the spigot ends. We puddled-in some WD-40 and
left it overnight. Himself will be scoring the inside with a reciprocating
saw. We hope to be able to knock it loose without damaging the hub.

Sponge-bathing in the laundry room is a real drag - I want my bathtub and
shower back!!!

Sheila

S Viemeister wrote:
The spigot and the hub seem to have rusted together - it's nearly
impossible to tell where the spigot ends. We puddled-in some WD-40 and
left it overnight.

You might have been better off adding a little hydrochloric acid (or
even acid from a defunct car battery).

Chris Bacon wrote:

S Viemeister wrote:
The spigot and the hub seem to have rusted together - it's nearly
impossible to tell where the spigot ends. We puddled-in some WD-40 and
left it overnight.

You might have been better off adding a little hydrochloric acid (or
even acid from a defunct car battery).

The WD40 worked, after leaving a good 24 hours.
And much safer than the acid.

Sheila