"Frisket" wrote in message news:...
Hi, next job on SWMBO's list of tasks to stop me having a weekend is a new
bog. The existing one has an outlet almost at floor level. The soil pipe
runs across the littlest room about a fingers thickness from the floor and
the loo outlet enters via a "Y" in the middle ( crap description probably
but I can't do drawings on this bloody thing that look anything like
they're
supposed to). The new throne has its outlet about 8" from the deck and it's
close coupled to its cistern. So , finally, as the new loo is going to be
closer to the wall and I'm going to use an elbow, the "Y" piece of the soil
pipe is going to need to be turned 90 degrees from the front to the top (if
you see what I mean). It would appear to be solvent welded so I'm going to
have to cut it then rejoin it but how? Presumably it'll need to be pretty
square and I can't see how to get a saw in as it's tight to the wall as
well
as the floor. What about joining it back together - is there a rubber tube
/
jubilee clip arrangement or will it require 2 couplings. Tried to interest
several plumbers in the job (like others I ain't too keen on the contents
of the pipe) but the only one who quoted wanted £40 / hour and said to
reckon on 5-6 hours - my arse!
Thanks for reading this far ( Tolstoy was an amateur at long tales) Richard

"Frisket" wrote in message
...

....
and a special BIG thankyou to Blueyonder who have probably the crappest news
server in the virtual world.
Sorry for double posting, Richard

"BigWallop" wrote in message
...
Not fully with you Frisket. (?) If the new loo needs to made into an "S"
trap outlet then buy an extended outlet fitting for it.

I take it you're meaning that the outlet from the old loo turns and goes
down toward the floor and into the existing soil pipe. (?) This would be
called an "S" Trap outlet. The outlet pipe of the new pan comes straight
out and points toward the wall at the back, this is called a "P" Trap
outlet.

You can get a plastic fitting that will convert a "P" into an "S" from any
of the DIY Stores.

Knew this wasn't going to be easy ;-)
The existing pan outlet points straight back to the wall almost at floor
level. The new one is higher but, because its close coupled it's closer to
the wall. I've got an elbow that'll drop straight down onto the soil pipe
but I need to turn the soil pipe entry to the top. Just to make things
interesting the soil pipe is 3" (like drain pipe) it comes up from the
ground floor, turns 90 degrees to the right outside on the landing (it's
boxed in), goes along the back wall of the toilet out the other side then
naffs off through the wall and up into the air to roof height. The fitting
where the pan joins the stack is like a swept "T".
Hope that's clearer - ish
TIA, Richard

"Frisket" wrote in message
...

"BigWallop" wrote in message
...
Not fully with you Frisket. (?) If the new loo needs to made into an
"S"
trap outlet then buy an extended outlet fitting for it.

I take it you're meaning that the outlet from the old loo turns and goes
down toward the floor and into the existing soil pipe. (?) This would
be
called an "S" Trap outlet. The outlet pipe of the new pan comes
straight
out and points toward the wall at the back, this is called a "P" Trap
outlet.

You can get a plastic fitting that will convert a "P" into an "S" from
any
of the DIY Stores.

Knew this wasn't going to be easy ;-)
The existing pan outlet points straight back to the wall almost at floor
level. The new one is higher but, because its close coupled it's closer to
the wall. I've got an elbow that'll drop straight down onto the soil pipe
but I need to turn the soil pipe entry to the top. Just to make things
interesting the soil pipe is 3" (like drain pipe) it comes up from the
ground floor, turns 90 degrees to the right outside on the landing (it's
boxed in), goes along the back wall of the toilet out the other side then
naffs off through the wall and up into the air to roof height. The fitting
where the pan joins the stack is like a swept "T".
Hope that's clearer - ish
TIA, Richard



Ah Haaaaaa !!!! Now I'm with you.

I take it that the original plumber has used 82 mm and not 3 inch Soil Pipe
?

This may work if you take your time.

A kettle of boiling water and a narrow bladed wood chisel will be needed for
this technique.

Slowly pour the boiling water ( keep the kettle boiling for as long as
possible before pouring it ) over one of the seams between the existing
branch and pipework, then start to push the chisel in between the joint
until you can break the seal. I've also done the same thing with a hot air
paint stripper gun.

The point is to soften the pipe as much as possible to make it easy to pull
apart, and the technique with the boiling water or hot air gun works well.

Once you can break the seal on the joints, then it is just a case of turning
the existing branch through ninety degrees until it points toward the
ceiling, and get a "P" to "S" Trap conversion fitting from the DIY Store.

Hope this is of some help. And remember that the soil pipe and cement
(glue) is not really meant to take boiling water, or any high heat, for long
periods of time, so it softens enough to pull apart quite easily.

"BigWallop" wrote in message
...

"Frisket" wrote in message
...

"BigWallop" wrote in message
...
Ah Haaaaaa !!!! Now I'm with you.

I take it that the original plumber has used 82 mm and not 3 inch Soil
Pipe
?

This may work if you take your time.

A kettle of boiling water and a narrow bladed wood chisel will be needed
for
this technique.

Slowly pour the boiling water ( keep the kettle boiling for as long as
possible before pouring it ) over one of the seams between the existing
branch and pipework, then start to push the chisel in between the joint
until you can break the seal. I've also done the same thing with a hot
air
paint stripper gun.

The point is to soften the pipe as much as possible to make it easy to
pull
apart, and the technique with the boiling water or hot air gun works well.

Once you can break the seal on the joints, then it is just a case of
turning
the existing branch through ninety degrees until it points toward the
ceiling, and get a "P" to "S" Trap conversion fitting from the DIY Store.

Hope this is of some help. And remember that the soil pipe and cement
(glue) is not really meant to take boiling water, or any high heat, for
long
periods of time, so it softens enough to pull apart quite easily.

Whoo-hoo! Thank goodness for that - it's true a pictures worth a thousand
postings but we got there in the end ;-)
I'll give this method a try at the weekend and let you know how I get on.
Thanks, Richard