"Frisket" wrote in message
...

"BigWallop" wrote in message
...
Not fully with you Frisket. (?) If the new loo needs to made into an
"S"
trap outlet then buy an extended outlet fitting for it.

I take it you're meaning that the outlet from the old loo turns and goes
down toward the floor and into the existing soil pipe. (?) This would
be
called an "S" Trap outlet. The outlet pipe of the new pan comes
straight
out and points toward the wall at the back, this is called a "P" Trap
outlet.

You can get a plastic fitting that will convert a "P" into an "S" from
any
of the DIY Stores.

Knew this wasn't going to be easy ;-)
The existing pan outlet points straight back to the wall almost at floor
level. The new one is higher but, because its close coupled it's closer to
the wall. I've got an elbow that'll drop straight down onto the soil pipe
but I need to turn the soil pipe entry to the top. Just to make things
interesting the soil pipe is 3" (like drain pipe) it comes up from the
ground floor, turns 90 degrees to the right outside on the landing (it's
boxed in), goes along the back wall of the toilet out the other side then
naffs off through the wall and up into the air to roof height. The fitting
where the pan joins the stack is like a swept "T".
Hope that's clearer - ish
TIA, Richard



Ah Haaaaaa !!!! Now I'm with you.

I take it that the original plumber has used 82 mm and not 3 inch Soil Pipe
?

This may work if you take your time.

A kettle of boiling water and a narrow bladed wood chisel will be needed for
this technique.

Slowly pour the boiling water ( keep the kettle boiling for as long as
possible before pouring it ) over one of the seams between the existing
branch and pipework, then start to push the chisel in between the joint
until you can break the seal. I've also done the same thing with a hot air
paint stripper gun.

The point is to soften the pipe as much as possible to make it easy to pull
apart, and the technique with the boiling water or hot air gun works well.

Once you can break the seal on the joints, then it is just a case of turning
the existing branch through ninety degrees until it points toward the
ceiling, and get a "P" to "S" Trap conversion fitting from the DIY Store.

Hope this is of some help. And remember that the soil pipe and cement
(glue) is not really meant to take boiling water, or any high heat, for long
periods of time, so it softens enough to pull apart quite easily.