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Andy Hall
 
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On 1 Jan 2005 13:43:39 GMT, (Huge) wrote:

Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside),
adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need
to get at my scabby plumbing)?

I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on
with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...




How about magnetism.

Axminster, and I'm sure others, sell rare earth magnets quite cheaply
-
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0

Construct a wooden frame and fix that in place to the floor, walls
etc. to give a firm foundation. Drill holes for the magnets with a
Forstner bit or spade bit with care and glue in the magnets.

Take some penny washers (say 25mm diameter with a small hole) -
available from usual sources - roughen and epoxy them to the inside of
the panel.

It meets all of your criteria.....

I've used this quite successfully for a panel of similar size to a
bath one. It is as well to arrange a small gap somewhere to slide a
hook in for later removal. These are quite strong magnets......



--

..andy

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  #2   Report Post  
Stephen Dawson
 
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Default Wooden bath side panel


"Huge" wrote in message
...
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside),
adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need
to get at my scabby plumbing)?

I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on
with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...

--
"The road to Paradise is through Intercourse."
[email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk]



Magnetic door catches. Try www.mvmlocks.com/IH_catches_ives.html for some
idea of what I mean


  #3   Report Post  
Andy Burns
 
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Huge wrote:

Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside),
adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need
to get at my scabby plumbing)?


magnets?
  #4   Report Post  
Stephen Dawson
 
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SNAP!!!


  #6   Report Post  
Owain
 
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"Huge" wrote
| Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel
| onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from
| the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable
| (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)?

Velcro.

Owain


  #7   Report Post  
Set Square
 
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Huge wrote:

Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the
outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable
(should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)?

I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on
with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...


My side panel is fixed on *virtually* invisibly.

The top of the panel is rebated to go behind the turned-over lip of the
bath. The bottom is about 3cm off the floor. Attached to the floor, just
inboard of the panel, is a plinth made of a strip of white Conti-board,
about 8cm high. There are a couple of those little plastic connecting blocks
screwed to the bottom edge of the panel and, in turn, screwed into the
plinth. Invisible? - well, you have virtually to lie on the floor to see
them - particularly since they're white against a white background.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
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Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.


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Cicero
 
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"Huge" wrote in message
...
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside),
adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need
to get at my scabby plumbing)?

I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on
with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...

--
"The road to Paradise is through Intercourse."
[email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk]


=================
Use a short length of broom handle with either:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=93504&id=16457
or
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/cat.jsp?ts=93606&id=100031


Cic.


  #9   Report Post  
Derek *
 
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On Sat, 1 Jan 2005 14:36:54 -0000, "Owain"
wrote:

"Huge" wrote
| Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel
| onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from
| the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable
| (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)?

Velcro.


At work we use some sort of "Industrial" Velcro which uses interlocking
plastic bobbles rather than the fibrous textile stuff to hold cosmetic
panels onto our machines.

DG
  #10   Report Post  
Andy Burns
 
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Huge wrote:

I'd already discounted magnetic door catches, since they are designed to take loads
normal to the magnet, not axially, and this thing weighs several kilos.


Don't under-estimate the power of rare earth magnets, maybe I still hate
velcro because of it's noise.


  #14   Report Post  
Andrew Chesters
 
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Huge wrote:
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside),
adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need
to get at my scabby plumbing)?

I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on
with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...

I've just found a couple of rolls of Scotch "Magnatherm" tape in a box
in the loft (Ideal weather for turning out the loft!) It is in two
parts, one is a self adheasive steel band , the other is a magnetic
band. Sold for DIY double glazing in 1/2" wide, 10' lengths.

Should do you!

Andrew
  #15   Report Post  
Dave Jones
 
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"Huge" wrote in message
...
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside),
adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need
to get at my scabby plumbing)?

I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on
with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...

--
"The road to Paradise is through Intercourse."
[email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk]


Try these http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=42384

work a treat for me


Dave Jones




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Morten
 
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"Andy Burns" wrote in message
...
Huge wrote:

I'd already discounted magnetic door catches, since they are designed to

take loads
normal to the magnet, not axially, and this thing weighs several kilos.


Then install a couple of stands that the panel can stand on, this will
remove the vertical (axially) forces and the a couple of magnets will do
just fine...


Don't under-estimate the power of rare earth magnets, maybe I still hate
velcro because of it's noise.


Rare earth magnets (Neodynium) are VERY strong so should easily cope with
the panel alone without the stands described above...


/Morten



---
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Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.825 / Virus Database: 563 - Release Date: 30/12/2004


  #17   Report Post  
Mike Dodd
 
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BTW. I found with the rare earth magnets that there was no sliding
anyway. THey're pretty powerful....


Yeah, but they're really hard to get hold of... )


....Not if you drink plenty of Guinness g


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...72600 07&rd=1



  #18   Report Post  
Andy Burns
 
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Huge wrote:

Andy Hall writes:

BTW. I found with the rare earth magnets that there was no sliding
anyway. THey're pretty powerful....


Yeah, but they're really hard to get hold of... )


Got a dead hard disk kicking around? Open it up and bob's your uncle ...
  #19   Report Post  
Andy Burns
 
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Huge wrote:

Those ones are being used to reset the max/min thermometer in the
greenhouse.


A bit of overkill to move a pin in a glass tube, you could probably drag
them underneath the mercury ...
  #20   Report Post  
Bob Minchin
 
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Huge wrote in message ...
Andy Burns writes:
Huge wrote:

Andy Hall writes:

BTW. I found with the rare earth magnets that there was no sliding
anyway. THey're pretty powerful....

Yeah, but they're really hard to get hold of... )


Got a dead hard disk kicking around? Open it up and bob's your uncle ...


Those ones are being used to reset the max/min thermometer in the
greenhouse.

--
"The road to Paradise is through Intercourse."
[email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk]



From the comfort of your armchair I assume?

regards

Bob




  #21   Report Post  
Stefek Zaba
 
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Huge wrote:


Yeah, but they're really hard to get hold of... )

(referring to rare-earth magnets). Not these days. Apart from raiding
obsolete hard drives (i.e. anything over 5? years old, which had an
astonishing capacity when you bought it and is now only just big enough
to hold the startup grafix for your mainstream OS ;-) they're sold by
our mates at Axminster Tools (www.axminster.co.uk), being as they are
ever so handy for holding down little jigs wot one might make up.

Additionally, they're now sold by many office suppliers, as ways of
affixing bits of paper or larger/heavier things to filing cabinets and
similar. As it happens, our office is awash with them, since the people
designing the Upscale Swanky New Premises wot we moved into in the New
Millenium decided that drawing pins were too lo-tech and declasse, so
issued all occupants with a score or so of rare-earth magnets in varying
sizes for securing the small number of tasteful approved objects to the
cubicle walls. (Y'know how it is - the furniture nazis try to exert
control until the first batch of architectural-prize photos have been
taken. Only contrarians would (a) go out to Focus next door and buy a
20-quid cheapie MDF shelf (pointedly on company money) in the first
week, to house the textbooks and reference works the Official Allocation
Of Shelves (a massive 8 linear feet in total) deemed more than a
Knowledge Worker would need, or (b) run a washing line laden with the
cyclists' clothes (for which there was initially no provision) across
the so-called "Street" - central atrium - to the tune of Coronation
Street, during our internal Welcome-To-The-New-Building ceremony. But I
digress...) On vaguely systematic experimentation, they proved to be
harmful to removeable magnetic media (floppies, Zip drives, and DAT
tapes) only under acts of quite deliberate 'wiping' - repeated passes
within no more than a millimetre or two of the magnetic surface - rather
than the instant-foulup-of-magnetic-meeja-within-a-coupla-feet which
some doom-mongers expected...

Stefek
  #22   Report Post  
Mary Fisher
 
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"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message
...
SNAP!!!


Snap fasteners are surprisingly good at holding wooden members. We have a
folding table, salvaged from dead father in law's house, which uses them to
hold legs together. I was dubious about the strength at first but they work
very well. The table is used when camping for the 'kitchen', it is used for
food preparation as well as bearing the cooker, 5 gallon water container
etc.

Mary




  #23   Report Post  
Jo
 
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"Huge" wrote in message
...
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside),
adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need
to get at my scabby plumbing)?

I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on
with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...

--
"The road to Paradise is through Intercourse."
[email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk]

How about NO NAILS, it seems to work for most stuff. But what happens if

you get a leaky pipe & need to take the panel off at some stage?

Jo


  #24   Report Post  
Bob Mannix
 
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"Jo" wrote in message
...

"Huge" wrote in message
...
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside),
adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need
to get at my scabby plumbing)?

I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on
with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...

--
"The road to Paradise is through Intercourse."
[email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk]

How about NO NAILS, it seems to work for most stuff. But what happens

if
you get a leaky pipe & need to take the panel off at some stage?



I fitted mine (having constructed it) so that the top of the panel was
rammed up under the lip of the bath. The panel was then fixed with brass
screws and cup washers at the bottom edge only to blocks I had previously
fixed to the floor. I then sealed the top edge wth clear silicone mastic.
The only visible fixings are therefore along the bottom edge and almost
invisible.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)


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Colin Cooper
 
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2 x 2 wood screwed to the floor, and self-adhesive velcro strips fixed to
this and the bath side panel. Works a treat. You won't need too much
velcro or you won't be able to get it off - I use about 3 x 3 inches in
total for the long bit.

All the best, Colin
"Bob Mannix" wrote in message
...

"Jo" wrote in message
...

"Huge" wrote in message
...
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a
bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside),
adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need
to get at my scabby plumbing)?

I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on
with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)...

--
"The road to Paradise is through Intercourse."
[email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk]

How about NO NAILS, it seems to work for most stuff. But what happens

if
you get a leaky pipe & need to take the panel off at some stage?



I fitted mine (having constructed it) so that the top of the panel was
rammed up under the lip of the bath. The panel was then fixed with brass
screws and cup washers at the bottom edge only to blocks I had previously
fixed to the floor. I then sealed the top edge wth clear silicone mastic.
The only visible fixings are therefore along the bottom edge and almost
invisible.


--
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)




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