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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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On 1 Jan 2005 13:43:39 GMT, (Huge) wrote:
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... How about magnetism. Axminster, and I'm sure others, sell rare earth magnets quite cheaply - http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0 Construct a wooden frame and fix that in place to the floor, walls etc. to give a firm foundation. Drill holes for the magnets with a Forstner bit or spade bit with care and glue in the magnets. Take some penny washers (say 25mm diameter with a small hole) - available from usual sources - roughen and epoxy them to the inside of the panel. It meets all of your criteria..... I've used this quite successfully for a panel of similar size to a bath one. It is as well to arrange a small gap somewhere to slide a hook in for later removal. These are quite strong magnets...... -- ..andy To email, substitute .nospam with .gl |
#2
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Wooden bath side panel
"Huge" wrote in message ... Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... -- "The road to Paradise is through Intercourse." [email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk] Magnetic door catches. Try www.mvmlocks.com/IH_catches_ives.html for some idea of what I mean |
#3
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Huge wrote:
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? magnets? |
#4
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SNAP!!!
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#5
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On 1 Jan 2005 13:43:39 GMT, (Huge) wrote: Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... How about magnetism. Magnetism's good.. But in my rental property's I use few dabs of silicone, oafs have failed to knock then off but with a bit of gentle leverage it can be removed. |
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"Huge" wrote
| Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel | onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from | the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable | (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? Velcro. Owain |
#7
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In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Huge wrote: Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... My side panel is fixed on *virtually* invisibly. The top of the panel is rebated to go behind the turned-over lip of the bath. The bottom is about 3cm off the floor. Attached to the floor, just inboard of the panel, is a plinth made of a strip of white Conti-board, about 8cm high. There are a couple of those little plastic connecting blocks screwed to the bottom edge of the panel and, in turn, screwed into the plinth. Invisible? - well, you have virtually to lie on the floor to see them - particularly since they're white against a white background. -- Cheers, Set Square ______ Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid. |
#8
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"Huge" wrote in message ... Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... -- "The road to Paradise is through Intercourse." [email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk] ================= Use a short length of broom handle with either: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=93504&id=16457 or http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/cat.jsp?ts=93606&id=100031 Cic. |
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On Sat, 1 Jan 2005 14:36:54 -0000, "Owain" wrote: "Huge" wrote | Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel | onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from | the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable | (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? Velcro. At work we use some sort of "Industrial" Velcro which uses interlocking plastic bobbles rather than the fibrous textile stuff to hold cosmetic panels onto our machines. DG |
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Huge wrote:
I'd already discounted magnetic door catches, since they are designed to take loads normal to the magnet, not axially, and this thing weighs several kilos. Don't under-estimate the power of rare earth magnets, maybe I still hate velcro because of it's noise. |
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Huge wrote:
Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... I've just found a couple of rolls of Scotch "Magnatherm" tape in a box in the loft (Ideal weather for turning out the loft!) It is in two parts, one is a self adheasive steel band , the other is a magnetic band. Sold for DIY double glazing in 1/2" wide, 10' lengths. Should do you! Andrew |
#15
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"Huge" wrote in message ... Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... -- "The road to Paradise is through Intercourse." [email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk] Try these http://www.toolstation.com/search.html?searchstr=42384 work a treat for me Dave Jones |
#16
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"Andy Burns" wrote in message ... Huge wrote: I'd already discounted magnetic door catches, since they are designed to take loads normal to the magnet, not axially, and this thing weighs several kilos. Then install a couple of stands that the panel can stand on, this will remove the vertical (axially) forces and the a couple of magnets will do just fine... Don't under-estimate the power of rare earth magnets, maybe I still hate velcro because of it's noise. Rare earth magnets (Neodynium) are VERY strong so should easily cope with the panel alone without the stands described above... /Morten --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.825 / Virus Database: 563 - Release Date: 30/12/2004 |
#17
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BTW. I found with the rare earth magnets that there was no sliding anyway. THey're pretty powerful.... Yeah, but they're really hard to get hold of... ) ....Not if you drink plenty of Guinness g http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...72600 07&rd=1 |
#18
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Huge wrote:
Andy Hall writes: BTW. I found with the rare earth magnets that there was no sliding anyway. THey're pretty powerful.... Yeah, but they're really hard to get hold of... ) Got a dead hard disk kicking around? Open it up and bob's your uncle ... |
#19
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Huge wrote:
Those ones are being used to reset the max/min thermometer in the greenhouse. A bit of overkill to move a pin in a glass tube, you could probably drag them underneath the mercury ... |
#20
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Huge wrote in message ... Andy Burns writes: Huge wrote: Andy Hall writes: BTW. I found with the rare earth magnets that there was no sliding anyway. THey're pretty powerful.... Yeah, but they're really hard to get hold of... ) Got a dead hard disk kicking around? Open it up and bob's your uncle ... Those ones are being used to reset the max/min thermometer in the greenhouse. -- "The road to Paradise is through Intercourse." [email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk] From the comfort of your armchair I assume? regards Bob |
#21
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Huge wrote:
Yeah, but they're really hard to get hold of... ) (referring to rare-earth magnets). Not these days. Apart from raiding obsolete hard drives (i.e. anything over 5? years old, which had an astonishing capacity when you bought it and is now only just big enough to hold the startup grafix for your mainstream OS ;-) they're sold by our mates at Axminster Tools (www.axminster.co.uk), being as they are ever so handy for holding down little jigs wot one might make up. Additionally, they're now sold by many office suppliers, as ways of affixing bits of paper or larger/heavier things to filing cabinets and similar. As it happens, our office is awash with them, since the people designing the Upscale Swanky New Premises wot we moved into in the New Millenium decided that drawing pins were too lo-tech and declasse, so issued all occupants with a score or so of rare-earth magnets in varying sizes for securing the small number of tasteful approved objects to the cubicle walls. (Y'know how it is - the furniture nazis try to exert control until the first batch of architectural-prize photos have been taken. Only contrarians would (a) go out to Focus next door and buy a 20-quid cheapie MDF shelf (pointedly on company money) in the first week, to house the textbooks and reference works the Official Allocation Of Shelves (a massive 8 linear feet in total) deemed more than a Knowledge Worker would need, or (b) run a washing line laden with the cyclists' clothes (for which there was initially no provision) across the so-called "Street" - central atrium - to the tune of Coronation Street, during our internal Welcome-To-The-New-Building ceremony. But I digress...) On vaguely systematic experimentation, they proved to be harmful to removeable magnetic media (floppies, Zip drives, and DAT tapes) only under acts of quite deliberate 'wiping' - repeated passes within no more than a millimetre or two of the magnetic surface - rather than the instant-foulup-of-magnetic-meeja-within-a-coupla-feet which some doom-mongers expected... Stefek |
#22
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"Stephen Dawson" wrote in message ... SNAP!!! Snap fasteners are surprisingly good at holding wooden members. We have a folding table, salvaged from dead father in law's house, which uses them to hold legs together. I was dubious about the strength at first but they work very well. The table is used when camping for the 'kitchen', it is used for food preparation as well as bearing the cooker, 5 gallon water container etc. Mary |
#23
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"Huge" wrote in message ... Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... -- "The road to Paradise is through Intercourse." [email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk] How about NO NAILS, it seems to work for most stuff. But what happens if you get a leaky pipe & need to take the panel off at some stage? Jo |
#24
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"Jo" wrote in message ... "Huge" wrote in message ... Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... -- "The road to Paradise is through Intercourse." [email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk] How about NO NAILS, it seems to work for most stuff. But what happens if you get a leaky pipe & need to take the panel off at some stage? I fitted mine (having constructed it) so that the top of the panel was rammed up under the lip of the bath. The panel was then fixed with brass screws and cup washers at the bottom edge only to blocks I had previously fixed to the floor. I then sealed the top edge wth clear silicone mastic. The only visible fixings are therefore along the bottom edge and almost invisible. -- Bob Mannix (anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not) |
#25
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2 x 2 wood screwed to the floor, and self-adhesive velcro strips fixed to
this and the bath side panel. Works a treat. You won't need too much velcro or you won't be able to get it off - I use about 3 x 3 inches in total for the long bit. All the best, Colin "Bob Mannix" wrote in message ... "Jo" wrote in message ... "Huge" wrote in message ... Anyone got any good ideas on how to fasten a wooden side panel onto a bath in such a way that the fastening is; invisible (from the outside), adjustable (it's bound not to be level) and removable (should I need to get at my scabby plumbing)? I'm tempted to ignore the "invisible" requirement and just screw it on with nice screws (chromed dome heads or mirror screws or somesuch)... -- "The road to Paradise is through Intercourse." [email me at huge [at] huge [dot] org [dot] uk] How about NO NAILS, it seems to work for most stuff. But what happens if you get a leaky pipe & need to take the panel off at some stage? I fitted mine (having constructed it) so that the top of the panel was rammed up under the lip of the bath. The panel was then fixed with brass screws and cup washers at the bottom edge only to blocks I had previously fixed to the floor. I then sealed the top edge wth clear silicone mastic. The only visible fixings are therefore along the bottom edge and almost invisible. -- Bob Mannix (anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not) |
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