For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

Frank Stacey wrote:
For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

you can mix copper and plastic tube, no probs. fwiw, I wouldnt waste time
with potentialy problematic compression fittings, I'd use speedfit throughout.

fit and forget.



RT

On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 09:32:27 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Check with the manufacturers, but generally push fit fittings for
plastic are OK with copper, but not with chrome plated copper where
they are apparently prone to slide off.

If you have to use chrome plated pipe, then it is better to transition
via a compression fitting and short length of plain copper tube to the
push fit fitting.

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.



Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Frank Stacey wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have
embarked involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs
with copper at either end. Am I right to assume this can be done
without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other
places I have plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or
chrome plated copper on the other. Are there any gotchas I should
know about?

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going
to be under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I
dread having to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water
seeps through the ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

That'll work fine. Just make sure that all pipes - whether copper or plastic
are pushed home fully into the fittings. (make a mark on the pipe with a
felt-tip pen the right distance from the end, and make sure that this is
only just visible).

My only reservation would be chrome plated pipe - having never used any! It
may be ok, but I would be slightly worried in case the chrome is too hard
for the star-lock washers to dig into and grip properly. I would be tempted
to use compression joints here.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 09:32:27 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated
copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Check with the manufacturers, but generally push fit fittings for
plastic are OK with copper, but not with chrome plated copper where
they are apparently prone to slide off.

If you have to use chrome plated pipe, then it is better to transition
via a compression fitting and short length of plain copper tube to the
push fit fitting.

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You cab use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a few
plastic joints.

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread
having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]



--

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 10:29:17 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message


It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You cab use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a few
plastic joints.


You mean as described in

http://www.johnguest.co.uk/makeconnect.asp

and

http://www.hep2o.co.uk/v2Opipecutting1.cfm

and

http://www.equator.co.uk/newwebsite/...on_making.html

and

http://www.polypipe.com/polypipe/pp_...sys_02-02.html

and probably every other manufacturer.

??

None of these leading manufacturers recommend the use of a hacksaw
to cut their products, but presumably you know better than all of
them.

The whole purpose of using a cutter is to cut the pipe cleanly and
squarely.

The application is to go under a bathroom floor where there will later
be limited access. In that context, spending £15 on a proper pipe
cutter as recommended by the manufacturers is a sensible investment in
doing the job properly rather than bodging it as you are suggesting.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In article , Andy Hall
writes
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 09:32:27 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Check with the manufacturers, but generally push fit fittings for
plastic are OK with copper, but not with chrome plated copper where
they are apparently prone to slide off.

If you have to use chrome plated pipe, then it is better to transition
via a compression fitting and short length of plain copper tube to the
push fit fitting.

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.



Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

I agree, with all of Andy's comments, but would add that my own rule is
never to use a fitting that is mechanically weaker than either/any of the
pipes to be joined, so if I am making plastic/plastic I use plastic,
copper/plastic I prefer to use compression and copper/copper I would never
use plastic. All to do with the risk of stressing/damaging the fitting when
pipes inevitably get moved about during fitting and in the months/years
down the line.
--
fred

In article ,
IMM wrote:
It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You cab use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a few
plastic joints.

Yes - others with some skills may be able to. But *you* apparently can't.

And what's a few leaks under floorboards as opposed to saving 15 quid.
Nothing at all to a dedicated bodger...

--
*I believe five out of four people have trouble with fractions. *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
The application is to go under a bathroom floor where there will later
be limited access. In that context, spending £15 on a proper pipe
cutter as recommended by the manufacturers is a sensible investment in
doing the job properly rather than bodging it as you are suggesting.

I find it amazing the way IMM constantly recommends wasting vast amounts
of money with his many harebrained schemes that aren't in the least
practical for most, but penny pinches on tools at every opportunity. Which
just confirms my belief that he has little or no hands on experience of
the actual installation of any form of heating system - or indeed anything
else.

--
*Taxation WITH representation ain't much fun, either.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 09:32:27 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated
copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Check with the manufacturers, but generally push fit fittings for
plastic are OK with copper, but not with chrome plated copper where
they are apparently prone to slide off.

If you have to use chrome plated pipe, then it is better to transition
via a compression fitting and short length of plain copper tube to the
push fit fitting.

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.



I have a cutter for copper pipe, one which is rotated round the pipe as a
circular blade is pushed gradually into it. Is that acceptable - it
certainly didn't cost as much as £15?

Frank

"Frank Stacey" wrote in message
...

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 09:32:27 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper
at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated
copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Check with the manufacturers, but generally push fit fittings for
plastic are OK with copper, but not with chrome plated copper where
they are apparently prone to slide off.

If you have to use chrome plated pipe, then it is better to transition
via a compression fitting and short length of plain copper tube to the
push fit fitting.

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.



I have a cutter for copper pipe, one which is rotated round the pipe as a
circular blade is pushed gradually into it. Is that acceptable - it
certainly didn't cost as much as £15?

If it works and gives a clean cut, yes. If you are doing a whole system
then a pipe cutter is worth getting as it is quick, but not for a few
joints. All you need is a good square cut with the sharp burred edges
removed with a fine file/Stanley knife. The pipe insert will but up against
the pipe which is tapered to allow the O ring to slide on.

When pushing the fitting on check to see if the O ring has been dislodged.
Speedfit are prone to do this more than others, but all makes can be
dislodged.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Andy Hall wrote:
The application is to go under a bathroom floor where there will later
be limited access. In that context, spending £15 on a proper pipe
cutter as recommended by the manufacturers is a sensible investment in
doing the job properly rather than bodging it as you are suggesting.

I find it amazing the way IMM constantly
recommends wasting vast amounts
of money with his many harebrained
schemes that aren't in the least
practical for most,

How would you know? You know nothing of heating and water systems.

but penny pinches on tools at every
opportunity.

Penny pinching. I am say don't buy it, not buy a cheap one. When buying
one buy a very good quality pipe cutter.

Here is this Plowman giving advise on CH..read on...

This what he wears, yes he does...he said...
"Well, I got a rather flash pair of DeWalt boots from TLC, so there.;-)"

Sad isn't it. Big yellow boots. Yes. big yellow boots.

He also attempts to give advise and criticise views on heating, yet he said
about his gas boier.......

"Mine managed over 10 years without being touched before it needed a clean.
'Sooting up' once it starts, happens very quickly."

He didn't have his gas boiler serviced for over 10 years, and knows all the
answers in this field - he thinks. Only on the Internet you see this.
These people are dangerous man, very dangerous.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
IMM wrote:

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You can use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a few
plastic joints.

Yes - others with some skills may be able to.

Do you mean this poor man has to spend £15 for nothing? My oh my!

But *you* apparently can't.

And what's a few leaks under floorboards
as opposed to saving 15 quid.
Nothing at all to a dedicated bodger...

Please look ..
http://www.toolstation.com/messages....0860&mainWin=1

I 'm sure you have never used one.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 10:29:17 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message


It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You cab use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a few
plastic joints.


You mean as described in

http://www.johnguest.co.uk/makeconnect.asp

and probably every other manufacturer.

Here is what Hepworth said on this ng. This man is using Hep20...

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable clean,
square cut using a variety of tools.
The Hepworth Plumbing Products Team"

A "perfectly acceptable clean, square cut" can be obtained by using a
hacksawa dn removing the burr and swarf with fines files/Straley knife.

snip tripe by makers wanting sell over-priced tools

"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , Andy Hall
writes
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 09:32:27 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper
at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated
copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Check with the manufacturers, but generally push fit fittings for
plastic are OK with copper, but not with chrome plated copper where
they are apparently prone to slide off.

If you have to use chrome plated pipe, then it is better to transition
via a compression fitting and short length of plain copper tube to the
push fit fitting.

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.



Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to
be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread
having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

I agree, with all of Andy's comments, but would add that my own rule is
never to use a fitting that is mechanically weaker than either/any of the
pipes to be joined, so if I am making plastic/plastic I use plastic,
copper/plastic I prefer to use compression and copper/copper I would never
use plastic. All to do with the risk of stressing/damaging the fitting
when
pipes inevitably get moved about during fitting and in the months/years
down the line.

Can you elaborate please. What you say doesn't makes sense as all joints:
plastic, copper, brass, etc, will move in use due to expansion. In joints
were there is excessive movement it is a concern that the O ring , although
keeping a seal will prematurely wear. Osma Gold has O rings with two
contact points. The O ring shape is a "W". This may prolong wear.

You can use a plastic joints on two copper pipes. I have seen these done
successfully on cold water. You can use copper or brass pushfit fittings on
two pieces of plastic pipe. Both are better than plastic/plastic as the
metal parts, pipe or fitting, is less prone to expanding and warping with
stress or heat.

Many plastic systems develop intermittent leaks, when the pipes and fitting
expand when they heat up.

On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 11:30:09 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 09:32:27 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated
copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Check with the manufacturers, but generally push fit fittings for
plastic are OK with copper, but not with chrome plated copper where
they are apparently prone to slide off.

If you have to use chrome plated pipe, then it is better to transition
via a compression fitting and short length of plain copper tube to the
push fit fitting.

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.



I have a cutter for copper pipe, one which is rotated round the pipe as a
circular blade is pushed gradually into it. Is that acceptable - it
certainly didn't cost as much as £15?

Frank


Not really, Frank.

I did try this once as an experiment, just to see what would happen,
but it tended to crush and mangle the end of the pipe, especially if
the cut is near the end as it would be for trimming.

It's best to use a proper plastic pipe cutter. I've seen these in
B&Q etc. or plumber's merchants have them. An example is
www.bes.ltd.uk catalogue number 13489.

Another thing to look at when buying pipe is that some brands have
marks at measured intervals that correspond to the push depth of the
fitting. Speedfit have these and possibly others. The idea is that
you cut on a line and then push in the pipe to the next line to ensure
proper insertion depth.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 12:00:29 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 10:29:17 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message


It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You cab use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a few
plastic joints.


You mean as described in

http://www.johnguest.co.uk/makeconnect.asp

and probably every other manufacturer.

Here is what Hepworth said on this ng. This man is using Hep20...

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable clean,
square cut using a variety of tools.
The Hepworth Plumbing Products Team"

I imagine that this would assume a degree of competence.


A "perfectly acceptable clean, square cut" can be obtained by using a
hacksawa dn removing the burr and swarf with fines files/Straley knife.


In their instruction leaflets, and web sites, all the manufacturers do
not recommend the use of a hacksaw but do recommend a proper pipe
cutter. At a cost of about £12, it is a nonsense not to buy one.
It's the cost of about 4 fittings.

Why on earth would anybody want to screw around with hacksaws, making
a mess, having to play around with files and knives to ensure the cut
is square and clean, when the whole thing can be done in a fraction of
a second with the proper and inexpensive tool.?






--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 11:30:09 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 09:32:27 -0000, "Frank Stacey"
wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated
copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Check with the manufacturers, but generally push fit fittings for
plastic are OK with copper, but not with chrome plated copper where
they are apparently prone to slide off.

If you have to use chrome plated pipe, then it is better to transition
via a compression fitting and short length of plain copper tube to the
push fit fitting.

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.



I have a cutter for copper pipe, one which is rotated round the pipe as a
circular blade is pushed gradually into it. Is that acceptable - it
certainly didn't cost as much as £15?

Frank

I think when I bought both my wheel and plastic pipe cutters the wheel
one said to either use only on plastic or on copper not use it on
both?

I'd splash the cash on a proper ratchet plastic cutter (Screwfix one
has done me ok).

Mark S.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
IMM wrote:


It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You cab use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a
few plastic joints.

Nah! That'll snaggle it!

A pair of garden secateurs (sp?) is is fine though. Any slight squeezing of
the pipe is immediately rectified when the insert is pushed in.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 12:00:29 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 10:29:17 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message


It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You cab use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a
few
plastic joints.


You mean as described in

http://www.johnguest.co.uk/makeconnect.asp

and probably every other manufacturer.

Here is what Hepworth said on this ng. This man is using Hep20...

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly acceptable
clean,
square cut using a variety of tools.
The Hepworth Plumbing Products Team"

I imagine that this would assume a degree of competence.

Exactly!

A "perfectly acceptable clean, square cut" can be obtained by using a
hacksawa dn removing the burr and swarf with fines files/Straley knife.

snip drivel

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
IMM wrote:


It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You cab use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a
few plastic joints.

Nah! That'll snaggle it!

A pair of garden secateurs (sp?) is is fine though. Any slight squeezing
of
the pipe is immediately rectified when the insert is pushed in.

Tsk, tsk!

In article ,
IMM wrote:
I find it amazing the way IMM constantly
recommends wasting vast amounts
of money with his many harebrained
schemes that aren't in the least
practical for most,

How would you know? You know nothing of heating and water systems.

Since your wrong about so much, why should you be right about this?


but penny pinches on tools at every
opportunity.

Penny pinching. I am say don't buy it, not buy a cheap one. When buying
one buy a very good quality pipe cutter.

Carry on making a fool of yourself. With your hacksaw and Stanley knife.

--
*It IS as bad as you think, and they ARE out to get you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

IMM wrote:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 12:00:29 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

Here is what Hepworth said on this ng. This man is using Hep20...

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly
acceptable clean, square cut using a variety of tools. The
Hepworth Plumbing Products Team"

I imagine that this would assume a degree of competence.

Exactly!

So someone who cut a pipe this way and managed to cause a flood is
probably incompetent?
--
Selah

"Stephen Gower" wrote in message
...
IMM wrote:
"Andy Hall" wrote in message
On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 12:00:29 -0000, "IMM" wrote:

Here is what Hepworth said on this ng. This man is using Hep20...

"The inventive can find many ways of achieving a perfectly
acceptable clean, square cut using a variety of tools. The
Hepworth Plumbing Products Team"

I imagine that this would assume a degree of competence.

Exactly!

So someone who cut a pipe this way and managed to cause a flood is
probably incompetent?

No. If pipe cut properly that is not incompetence. Duh!
--
Selah

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
IMM wrote:
I find it amazing the way IMM constantly
recommends wasting vast amounts
of money with his many harebrained
schemes that aren't in the least
practical for most,

How would you know? You know nothing of heating and water systems.

Since your wrong about so much,

As you know nothing about heating and water system you would not know what
is right or wrong. Duh!

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Frank Stacey wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have
embarked involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs
with copper at either end. Am I right to assume this can be done
without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other
places I have plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or
chrome plated copper on the other. Are there any gotchas I should
know about?

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going
to be under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I
dread having to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water
seeps through the ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

That'll work fine. Just make sure that all pipes - whether copper or
plastic
are pushed home fully into the fittings. (make a mark on the pipe with a
felt-tip pen the right distance from the end, and make sure that this is
only just visible).

My only reservation would be chrome plated pipe - having never used any!
It
may be ok, but I would be slightly worried in case the chrome is too hard
for the star-lock washers to dig into and grip properly. I would be
tempted
to use compression joints here.

When faced with a similar _problem_ ^W opportunity ... I did attempt
plastic to chrome joint: it failed under pressure with the plastic fitting
easing off the slippery chrome. I de-chromed the end by using one of
those pipe-end cleaners - it's a plastic tube -gauged for 15mm one end and
22mm at t'other- each end has flap-style abrasive thingies; push the
pipe into appropriate end and twist aggressively- result shiny copper
for the correct depth for jointing. Second time around with what was
now Copper~Plastic; no problems.

--

Brian

"IMM" wrote
| Here is this Plowman giving advise on CH..read on...
| This what he wears, yes he does...he said...
| "Well, I got a rather flash pair of DeWalt boots from TLC, so there.;-)"
| Sad isn't it. Big yellow boots. Yes. big yellow boots.

What is wrong with yellow boots? I expect they're very useful for seeing
where your feet are in the dark.

Owain

In article , IMM
writes

"fred" wrote in message ...
I agree, with all of Andy's comments, but would add that my own rule is
never to use a fitting that is mechanically weaker than either/any of the
pipes to be joined, so if I am making plastic/plastic I use plastic,
copper/plastic I prefer to use compression and copper/copper I would never
use plastic. All to do with the risk of stressing/damaging the fitting
when
pipes inevitably get moved about during fitting and in the months/years
down the line.

Can you elaborate please.
I was suggesting this as a protection against abuse/accident rather other
kinds of movement.
--
fred

On Wed, 3 Nov 2004 11:50:57 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
IMM wrote:

It's also important to follow the manufacturer's recommendation and
use a proper pipe cutter for the plastic and not a hack saw.

You can use as hacksaw as long as the cut is square and the burrs are
trimmed off with a Stanley knife. No sense in spending £15 to do a few
plastic joints.

Yes - others with some skills may be able to.

Do you mean this poor man has to spend £15 for nothing? My oh my!

But *you* apparently can't.

And what's a few leaks under floorboards
as opposed to saving 15 quid.
Nothing at all to a dedicated bodger...

Please look ..
http://www.toolstation.com/messages....0860&mainWin=1

I 'm sure you have never used one.

While you're there, why not pick up the proper tool
http://www.toolstation.com/search.ht...69222&Search=1
for £5.32 inc VAT. I paid about £8 for mine from the local PM.

When using these cutters, cut with a slight rotation of the tool. It
makes the blade cut much easier, and squashes the tube less.

Phil
The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/
Remove NOSPAM from address to email me

On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 12:41:03 +0000, Andy Hall wrote:

Another thing to look at when buying pipe is that some brands have
marks at measured intervals that correspond to the push depth of the
fitting. Speedfit have these and possibly others. The idea is that
you cut on a line and then push in the pipe to the next line to ensure
proper insertion depth.

Hep has these as well, and very useful they are.

Another tip: Are you sure you put an insert in the end of that pipe
yesterday? Put a mark on the pipe with a marker pen as soon as you slip
the insert in. Then you can go back later and be re-assured when you see
the mark is there. Before I adopted that technique I had to undo a few
to double-check that I did fit the insert.

Phil
The uk.d-i-y FAQ is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/
Remove NOSPAM from address to email me

In article ,
Owain wrote:
What is wrong with yellow boots? I expect they're very useful for seeing
where your feet are in the dark.

They'd help aiming at IMM's arse, too.

--
*Do infants enjoy infancy as much as adults enjoy adultery?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Owain" wrote in message
...
"IMM" wrote
| Here is this Plowman giving advise on CH..read on...
| This what he wears, yes he does...he said...
| "Well, I got a rather flash pair of DeWalt boots from TLC, so there.;-)"
| Sad isn't it. Big yellow boots. Yes. big yellow boots.

What is wrong with yellow boots? I expect they're very useful for seeing
where your feet are in the dark.

I know where my feet are.

"Set Square" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Frank Stacey wrote:

For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have
embarked involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs
with copper at either end. Am I right to assume this can be done
without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other
places I have plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or
chrome plated copper on the other. Are there any gotchas I should
know about?

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going
to be under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I
dread having to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water
seeps through the ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

That'll work fine. Just make sure that all pipes - whether copper or
plastic
are pushed home fully into the fittings. (make a mark on the pipe with a
felt-tip pen the right distance from the end, and make sure that this is
only just visible).

My only reservation would be chrome plated pipe - having never used any!
It
may be ok, but I would be slightly worried in case the chrome is too hard
for the star-lock washers to dig into and grip properly. I would be
tempted
to use compression joints here.
--
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.



I have now read the instructions on the packaging (rtfm?) and see they
explicitly advise NOT to use plastic connectors with chrome-plated copper
tube.

The plumbing for the towel rail is in place and all seems fine - I'm off to
do the same for the hot and cold water.....

Thanks to evryone for lots of useful advice.

Frank

In article ,
IMM wrote:
What is wrong with yellow boots? I expect they're very useful for
seeing where your feet are in the dark.

I know where my feet are.

Cirrus?

--
* What do they call a coffee break at the Lipton Tea Company? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:40:01 GMT, "R Taylor"
wrote:

Frank Stacey wrote:
For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

you can mix copper and plastic tube, no probs. fwiw, I wouldnt waste time
with potentialy problematic compression fittings, I'd use speedfit throughout.

fit and forget.



RT


Speedfit! No way - use Hep2O instead and worry less about leaks.

Rob


Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply

On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 12:29:09 +0000, Kalico wrote:

On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:40:01 GMT, "R Taylor"
wrote:

Frank Stacey wrote:
For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

you can mix copper and plastic tube, no probs. fwiw, I wouldnt waste time
with potentialy problematic compression fittings, I'd use speedfit throughout.

fit and forget.



RT


Speedfit! No way - use Hep2O instead and worry less about leaks.

I've never had problems with any of the major brands, including
Speedfit.



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Kalico" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:40:01 GMT, "R Taylor"
wrote:

Frank Stacey wrote:
For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have
embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper
at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without
restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated
copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to
be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread
having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

you can mix copper and plastic tube, no probs. fwiw, I wouldnt waste time
with potentialy problematic compression fittings, I'd use speedfit
throughout.

fit and forget.

RT

Speedfit! No way - use Hep2O instead and worry less about leaks.

Marley Equator and Osma Gold have the edge.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 12:29:09 +0000, Kalico wrote:

On Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:40:01 GMT, "R Taylor"
wrote:

Frank Stacey wrote:
For various reasons I find that a plumbing job on which I have
embarked
involves using plastic (HEP) pipe for various awkward runs with copper
at
either end. Am I right to assume this can be done without
restriction?

In some places I am using straight metal compression couplers between
copper
and plastic with an insert in the plastic pipe. In other places I
have
plastic elbows with plastic on one branch and copper or chrome plated
copper
on the other. Are there any gotchas I should know about?

Excuse the paranoia, but once completed most of this stuff is going to
be
under the floor of a small bathroom and very inaccessible. I dread
having
to rip out my carefully installed fittings as water seeps through the
ceiling below!!

Frank [the tentative plumber]

you can mix copper and plastic tube, no probs. fwiw, I wouldnt waste
time
with potentialy problematic compression fittings, I'd use speedfit
throughout.

fit and forget.



RT


Speedfit! No way - use Hep2O instead and worry less about leaks.

I've never had problems with any of the major brands, including
Speedfit.

You have only used a few foot of the stuff. Duh!

On Thu, 4 Nov 2004 13:19:04 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .


I've never had problems with any of the major brands, including
Speedfit.

You have only used a few foot of the stuff. Duh!


You have no idea how much I've used and under what circumstances.

Of course, I've always used the manufacturer's recommended fitting
methods and tools..........



--

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 4 Nov 2004 13:19:04 -0000, "IMM" wrote:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message
.. .


I've never had problems with any of the major brands, including
Speedfit.

You have only used a few foot of the stuff. Duh!

You have no idea how much I've used and under what circumstances.

You have only used a few foot of the stuff. Duh!

Of course, I've always used the manufacturer's recommended fitting
methods and tools..........

...and been ripped off.